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      05-22-2016, 09:09 PM   #1
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Spark plug install question

Just a question to put my mind at ease. Today I swapped out the plugs in my 2007 Z4 M coupe. I went with the Bosch YR6LDE. I quickly searched the web for the recommended torque and found 20 ft/lbs. So they went in and I torqued them down to 19 ft/lbs given that I had put just a touch of anti-seize on them. After a test drive and all being fine I looked at the box and the recommend torque from Bosche was only 17 ft pounds. My OCD kicked and with the concern that I may have over torqued them I went back in and back them out and re-torqued them down to 16.5 ft/lb again trying to account for the anti-seize effect. All seems well but to put my mind at ease would there be any problems with what I did with backing them out and re-torquing? And is 17 ft/lbs the BMW recommendation as well?
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      05-23-2016, 07:01 AM   #2
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18ft lbs is specified- so no worries . Most sparkplug manufacturers say NOT to use anti=seize though
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      05-23-2016, 04:01 PM   #3
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Yeah I read BMW doesn't recommend anti-seize but after pulling the plugs out, there was a fair amount of build up on the threads that made them slightly tough to remove. The plugs were otherwise spotless.....So I put on just a smidge of anti seize on and when I say a smidge I mean a smidge. I know the debate still rages about with or without. I'm no expert so I tried to error on the less side
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      05-23-2016, 05:07 PM   #4
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I typically pull out my engine oil dip stick and apply some of the oil from the dip stick onto the threads of the spark plug. It's just an easy access to some oil and keeps the threads from locking up.
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      05-24-2016, 04:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jumbosock View Post
I typically pull out my engine oil dip stick and apply some of the oil from the dip stick onto the threads of the spark plug. It's just an easy access to some oil and keeps the threads from locking up.
I wouldn't do that, simply because oil on spark plug threads usually indicate to me (and any competent mechanic) that there's a leak somewhere in the valve cover gasket.

Plus any lubricant on the thread is going to throw your torque spec off. Not by much, as much as 10%, but newer spark plugs are VERY sensitive to torque spec and angle of torque too. Not the S54, but we changed out the spark plug on my buddy's F30 328i and chased a mis-fire all week. Turns out the plugs need to use a swivel socket due to the direct injection hardware requiring the spark plug be installed at an odd angle, and torqued to a very narrow range of twist higher than what's specified on the plug from the manufacturer. When we removed the plugs, 3 out of 4 plugs had the ceramic insulator cracked.

The S54, on the other hand, is much more straight forward. No DI hardware means the plug and the socket is installed just like how it always has been done in the last 20 or so years, and because no swivel socket is used, it's not as susceptible to small variations on torque spec.

Normally, I put a small dab of COPPER anti-seize on the spark plug to make the NEXT spark plug change easier, and torque it to the low end of the torque spec. But the MZ4 Coupe, being driven only on weekends, I haven't had to do any of that yet.
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      05-24-2016, 05:30 PM   #6
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I put Spark plugs in dry and haven't had an issue but always some silicone dielectric grease in the spark plug boot.
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      05-24-2016, 05:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
Normally, I put a small dab of COPPER anti-seize on the spark plug to make the NEXT spark plug change easier, and torque it to the low end of the torque spec. But the MZ4 Coupe, being driven only on weekends, I haven't had to do any of that yet.
You haven't had to pull out your plugs yet? Even for valve adjustments?

On the S54, I install the plugs dry since they get swapped out during valve adjustments (every 25K or so) anyway, so it's usually isn't on there long enough to cause removal issues. But on my M54, I use a tiny dab of anti-seize for easier removal on the next change since I don't swap those out that often (every 60K to 80K).
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      06-01-2016, 09:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
You haven't had to pull out your plugs yet? Even for valve adjustments?

On the S54, I install the plugs dry since they get swapped out during valve adjustments (every 25K or so) anyway, so it's usually isn't on there long enough to cause removal issues. But on my M54, I use a tiny dab of anti-seize for easier removal on the next change since I don't swap those out that often (every 60K to 80K).
Same here.
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      06-08-2016, 02:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I wouldn't do that, simply because oil on spark plug threads usually indicate to me (and any competent mechanic) that there's a leak somewhere in the valve cover gasket.

Plus any lubricant on the thread is going to throw your torque spec off. Not by much, as much as 10%, but newer spark plugs are VERY sensitive to torque spec and angle of torque too. Not the S54, but we changed out the spark plug on my buddy's F30 328i and chased a mis-fire all week. Turns out the plugs need to use a swivel socket due to the direct injection hardware requiring the spark plug be installed at an odd angle, and torqued to a very narrow range of twist higher than what's specified on the plug from the manufacturer. When we removed the plugs, 3 out of 4 plugs had the ceramic insulator cracked.

The S54, on the other hand, is much more straight forward. No DI hardware means the plug and the socket is installed just like how it always has been done in the last 20 or so years, and because no swivel socket is used, it's not as susceptible to small variations on torque spec.

Normally, I put a small dab of COPPER anti-seize on the spark plug to make the NEXT spark plug change easier, and torque it to the low end of the torque spec. But the MZ4 Coupe, being driven only on weekends, I haven't had to do any of that yet.
Fair point. But nobody else touches my car except me. I don't douse the thing in oil, I just add a tiny amount to the threads. Also maybe I'm crazy but I don't use a torque wrench on the plugs. I use my calibrated hand to tighten it to "just enough". No issues after 9th year on two S54 engines.
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