2006 Z4M Roadster Advice (Purchasing)

[wtran]

Hi

I am looking at a z4M Roadster with 155,000 Kms (96,000 Miles).
Things that i know to look out for:

Convertible top motor goes bad due to water
Engine Needs to do Rod Bearings
Engine needs Vanos maintenance

Is there anything else i should look out for ?

Thanks

[wtran]

Originally Posted by SaltyNC

ZGirl,

I bought a Z4MR with 30K. I knew the heritage of the S54 engine, the last and probably best example of old school ///M engineering, but I did not know about its design flaws, and it has some. These can be fixed, but at a cost. If you can find a forum member's M Coupe, often times they will have already addressed these issues and you will get them at a discount.

So, just a few items to consider:

1. Inspection I and II

These are required intensive maintenance periods. Often times a 70K MC being sold will need Inspection II done soon. The same goes for a 30K MC needing Inspection I. If these have been done, it will save you $1000+. These never really end. You'll need to keep repeating Inspection I and II about every 30K-40K miles or so.

2. Sometimes, but not always, part of Inspection I and II includes valve adjustments. The S54 uses mechanical valves that require shims. This needs to be done around every 30,000 miles.

3. The dreaded vanos issues - this is a serious design flaw. It's a bear to do the work. There are good replacement systems out there, though. Bolts can shear off. Metal tabs on an internal hub can (will) eventually fail and if they make it into the engine, kaboom, you're done. There are other parts of the vanos that are weak, as well. Basically, all of us will eventually have to beef up our vanos or risk the possibility of catastrophic engine failure.

4. Bearings - Bearings wear in the S54. There are treated bearings that seem to reduce wear, but on a 70K mile MC, you probably need to have the bearings replaced before you reach 100K. An oil analysis with high lead content will offer a clue as to when it needs to be done.

5. Engine mounts bolts - hopefully these have already been replaced with stronger bolts. If not, they can snap. Many of us do it when we replace the engine mounts for stiffer engine mounts that improve the shifting characteristics of the car.

6. Fluids - You need to change the fluids in the car more often. 10W60 is expensive oil. Even from discount sites, you're looking at nearly $100 for just the oil and filter every 7500 miles or so. I think I paid $85. Brake/clutch fluid needs to be replaced regularly. Transmission fluid needs to be changed. The differential fluid needs to be changed. Coolant needs to be replaced. These are higher interval, but still need to be done.

7. Bushings and suspension - unless already done, various bushings will probably need to be replaced with the drivetrain and suspension. Shocks and springs may need to be replaced. Rear springs break with some regularity.

8. Paint / clear protection - depending on what your roads are like, the Z4MC will take some hits to the front bumper and side skirts from rocks and debris. Many of us have or will re-spray these areas. Some of us will put clear protection on these areas. It's a low riding car.

9. Water pump - This is an area that is probably overblown, but the water pump and radiator have some plastic parts. Some like to replace the water pump at around 70K miles as cheap insurance against catastrophic failure.

This engine sounds different than most. The engine taps, the vanos whirls and whines and rattles (but not too much or its a problem ). The dual mass flywheel can clunk. Turn off the engine without depressing the clutch, and it will shudder. We generally like these unique things about the car, but if you don't know they are supposed to make these noises, it can be concerning, so just know that some noise is completely normal.

With all that said, this is without question the most fun car I've ever owned. After driving this car for about a week and then getting in another car, you will think the other car's steering is failing. One of our other cars is a MINI, and even it feels like slop after driving my Z4MR. I love the feedback this car provides and the direct steering. The high revving acceleration is intoxicating. I almost always look back over my shoulder at the car when I park it. It's one of those special cars that don't come along very often. I think they are a bargain at current prices, and the maintenance costs well worth the experience.

This week has been in the 70's and sunny. We had 70's in December this year in North Carolina. I know you're going for an MC, but wow, it has been awesome with the top down. It's been a very long time since I've owned a car where I want to "go for a drive" just for the sake of driving. The Z4M is that kind of car.

If you enter ownership knowing what to expect, and it fits your budget, I think you will be very happy with the decision. I hope this information has been helpful. Good luck with your decision.

Salty

Okay after reading this guys post i think im going to stick to a regular z4 as the maintenance costs are too much for me.

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by wtran

Okay after reading this guys post i think im going to stick to a regular z4 as the maintenance costs are too much for me.

I have a regular Z4 and I love it but I gotta say - don't be too hasty! Why not wait for some of the many M owners here to comment before you decide.

[WeekendWarriorz]

Woah Woah Woah, don't jump out too quick. I was the same way because I was considering an e46 M3 but I purchased a Z4M with over 80k miles on it. I've put on 8k miles which have consisted of countless canyon runs, two track days, and daily high speed driving. If you know how to DIY then maintenance is cheap. There are so many forums on basically everything. That being said, this car needs maintenance! You have to change the oil, fluids, and valve adjustments but that's just part of owning/taking car of any car... and for an oil change I bought the Castrol 10w-60 TWS oil with a filter for $60 on amazon, shits cheap. Vanos and Rod bearings are capable of blowing up at any time, that's just part of owning the car. Keep the car healthy.

[wtran]

haha okay i guess i will keep it in mind. With my budget im getting the lower end of the z4m. With actually a little less money i could be in the top range for regular z4s.

Here is what is available to me.
2007 Bmw z4 3.0 50,000km 20k Cad
2005 Bmw z4 3.0 80,000km 15k Cad
2006 Bmw z4m Roadster 155,000km 22k Cad

[garz747]

i would keep looking - with that kind of mileage every component is well worn!

[Huz-Z]

For the two Z4s, note that in 2006 the cars had a midlife upgrade. If the 2007 is an si, it will be almost as quick as the M but only to 50 - 60 mph when the M will pull away. The 2007 will have an aluminum and magnesium engine making it light for handling, but it can't take additional stress from power upgrades. And there's not much available anyway. If that is what you are after then go for the 2005. And also let's see what others think of that M.

[NO_RETURN]

Originally Posted by wtran

haha okay i guess i will keep it in mind. With my budget im getting the lower end of the z4m. With actually a little less money i could be in the top range for regular z4s.

Here is what is available to me.
2007 Bmw z4 3.0 50,000km 20k Cad
2005 Bmw z4 3.0 80,000km 15k Cad
2006 Bmw z4m Roadster 155,000km 22k Cad

IMHO I'd go for the lowest mileage, top range 30i VS. the cheapest M. These cars require maintenance... As with most any car typically by the time they hit 6 digits on the odometer, they are on their 2nd or 3rd owner and all but basic maintenance tends to fall by the wayside and they are only repaired when they break. There is a reason they say the most expensive car you can buy is a bargain M car... actually they say Porsche, but you get the point.

[ncnmra]

I have a 2006 Z4m Roadster for sale in London with 59,700 kms (check the classifieds).

[pungo]

If you're worried about the higher maintenance cost of an ///M, don't forget the reduced MPG. If it's anything more than just a weekend car, the cost of maintenance will be nothing compared to the extra cost of fuel. Hell, a 505hp 7.0 liter 2007 Corvette gets better mileage than an ///M. Sad to see a higher hp 7.0L American V8 in a heavier car get better mpg than a German 3.2L in a lighter car.

[NickyC]

There's a lot of doom out there about these cars. Read enough on the internet about anything, and it's doom doom doom. I've owned a Z4M Roadster now for over 6 years with two different cars, and the worst thing that has happened is the driver's side window switch stopped working. I've been having some issues related to a stater/alternator/who the hell knows what for the past couple weeks, but any of those which turn out to be the ultimate culprit will be cheap to fix.

In my experience, the Z4M is the most reliable car I've ever driven/owned.

[ncnmra]

I wouldn't say the Z4M is any worse than other performance cars, and/or any other BMW in general. The nice thing I found is that most of the issues are common and well documented so there is good support. Also, there is lots of documentation, tools, etc and a lot of it can be done by yourself if you're handy.

The oil and filters are readily available. 5L in Canada costs about $60. Labor will be labor.

I never found the mileage a particular problem, but it has been a weekend/fun car for me.

[yousefnjr]

Nothing wrong with the non-M, I quite liked my previous 3.0i. Felt much lighter, which it was (by around 200 lbs IIRC) and better on very tight backroads where power wasn't a big deal. You'll still be paying a decent amount to lovingly maintain any BMW though.

If you can do your own wrenching, maintenance costs go way down. Parts can be a bit pricey on the M (e.g. front rotors $250 each )

[bananabun]

Can't speak for high mileage cars (my Z4M has 36k), but maintenance costs are nothing extra over the usual German/performance car costs. Just follow a preventative schedule and you shouldn't see the need for an expensive fix.

That being said, definitely get a pre-purchase inspection done. If possible, do a Blackstone oil analysis and that should put your rod bearing worries at ease. Good Luck!

[jrich4411]

I had 125k on my '06 ///Mr when she met with an untimely demise last year. I then searched the entire eastern seaboard for another identical roadster. I found one in New Jersey with 32.5k miles for $24k.
the 2 major issues I had with the first one was that the radio needed to be replaced and the last year the convertible top stopped working. I assume that was a motor issue but never got around to fixing it.
Needless to say I LOVE this car!

[wtran]

Hey guys thanks for the advice. Right now i am looking at the 3.0i. Unless a really desirable z4Mr comes up. My decision is based on that a 3.0i is cheaper, thus leaving me money on the side to do all the bushings and suspension and fluids.
I am thinking i am going to do maintenance work like
ECS's:

cooling refresh kit https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...117573751lv2a/

front suspension rebuild kit level 2 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-pa...e463112-2~kt2/

rear suspension rebuild kit level 2 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...326770824kt10/

And then get suspension work done. That should make a the car "new" again.

Am i missing anything else i should do?

[gpraceman]

Originally Posted by wtran

Hey guys thanks for the advice. Right now i am looking at the 3.0i. Unless a really desirable z4Mr comes up.

If I was still in the market for a Z4M, I'd be tempted by these
2007 Z4M's, especially the red with red interior and lower miles.