battery problems

[don 147]

Hey guys I'm in a bind, need some help asap
I just had a new battery installed because was getting bad. When I left the Interstate battery shop the car started great, drove about 10 miles and stopped at the store, now the car won't start. The dash light, radio, everything works, but it's like it doesn't recognize that the key had been turn to start.
What can I check

[StickMon]

Everything still works when the key is turned to the start position?
If there's a resistive connection, you may be OK under light load, but drop to low voltage under heavy load.
That's my best guess given the timing of having this happen just after a battery change.
Allowing for unrelated coincidence:
Clutch switch
Ignition switch
Starter

But I would still start with examining the connections to the battery itself.

[don 147]

Originally Posted by StickMon

Everything still works when the key is turned to the start position?
If there's a resistive connection, you may be OK under light load, but drop to low voltage under heavy load.
That's my best guess given the timing of having this happen just after a battery change.
Allowing for unrelated coincidence:
Clutch switch
Ignition switch
Starter

But I would still start with examining the connections to the battery itself.

I did ck the connections. I even took the positive cable off to see if something would reset, no joy. I have heard somewhere that when the battery is disconnected the car may go into "sleep mode" but I have no idea what that is or how to fix it

[StickMon]

There's "transport mode", but the effects are more subtle.
AC won't work and something else that I can't remember. It will still start and run.

I've had my battery out many times and all that happens is I have to reset the clock and the power window auto-up.

[don 147]

Originally Posted by StickMon

There's "transport mode", but the effects are more subtle.
AC won't work and something else that I can't remember. It will still start and run.

I've had my battery out many times and all that happens is I have to reset the clock and the power window auto-up.

Well, I have no idea what it might be, but I had it towed to the shop (an Indy) that I trust so we'll see.

[garz747]

Let us know what they came up with. Possible defective new or undercharged battery also. Good luck!

[don 147]

Originally Posted by garz747

Let us know what they came up with. Possible defective new or undercharged battery also. Good luck!

Man i can only hope that is the case.

[ZAR4MC]

You can also try checking Voltage regulator and Alternator...

[don 147]

Originally Posted by ZAR4MC

You can also try checking Voltage regulator and Alternator...

I have it in the shop, they're checking everything, but thanks for the input.

[RossBMWZseries]

Like stick mon stated, could be the transport mode (sleep mode). Happened to me when I swapped my battery a few times. The AC wouldn't work while on transport mode.

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

Like stick mon stated, could be the transport mode (sleep mode). Happened to me when I swapped my battery a few times. The AC wouldn't work while on transport mode.

Transport mode doesn't inhibit starting. It inhibits the comfort accessories and I believe also limits speed. It's intended to keep the drivers that load the cars on and off the ships and trucks from hooning around with them.

Sounds more like a defective battery, or previous starting problems were the starter and not the battery....

[don 147]

Originally Posted by dc_wright

Transport mode doesn't inhibit starting. It inhibits the comfort accessories and I believe also limits speed. It's intended to keep the drivers that load the cars on and off the ships and trucks from hooning around with them.

Sounds more like a defective battery, or previous starting problems were the starter and not the battery....

My indy guy said the same thing, could be the starter. I just have never had a starter problem before. I guess it could have just gone out suddenly, but generally they seem to drag before going out. We'll see.

[chickdr]

Originally Posted by don 147

My indy guy said the same thing, could be the starter. I just have never had a starter problem before. I guess it could have just gone out suddenly, but generally they seem to drag before going out. We'll see.

The starter is a known weak spot. It could also be the ignition switch itself.

[elerner61]

So when our starters go, is it the solenoid or the motor? Is it possible to bypass the solenoid on our starters (I was in awe when my Dad used a screwdriver on the solenoid terminals to start our car when I was 8) to get the starter motor to spin?

[don 147]

Well, I just got a call and it is the starter, damn the luck. Got quoted 1059.00, I've never changed on on a Z4 but sounds high. Is this about normal.

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by elerner61

So when our starters go, is it the solenoid or the motor? Is it possible to bypass the solenoid on our starters (I was in awe when my Dad used a screwdriver on the solenoid terminals to start our car when I was 8) to get the starter motor to spin?

The solenoid is integral to the starter and it has to move the engagement gear forward along with closing the power contact to spin the motor. What your Dad was bypassing was the starter relay that was a typical failure on older cars. With the screw driver he was shorting the main 12V input where 12V is always available to the starter motor to the 12V input to the solenoid, effectively bypassing the starter relay.

As to what fails on the starter, it's more frequently the brushes for the motor get worn down to where they fail to make contact. If you hear a clunk but the starter motor doesn't spin, then it's likely the brushes. If you don't hear the clunk, then that's a sign the solenoid didn't attempt to move the bendix and the failure is likely in the solenoid, assuming there was sufficient power available to move the solenoid. The tricky part of this is that a battery or wiring issue can also give both these symptoms, so you have to eliminate them as the source of the issue before moving to the starter.

[StickMon]

Originally Posted by don 147

Well, I just got a call and it is the starter, damn the luck. Got quoted 1059.00, I've never changed on on a Z4 but sounds high. Is this about normal.

Not sure if this is the one you need. It's the one for an ///M.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-valeo-pa...417835735~val/

Given that a new (not rebuilt) starter is under $170, I'd say $1059 sounds a little high.
Pretty sure there's some DIY info on here.

[don 147]

Originally Posted by StickMon

Not sure if this is the one you need. It's the one for an ///M.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-valeo-pa...417835735~val/

Given that a new (not rebuilt) starter is under $170, I'd say $1059 sounds a little high.
Pretty sure there's some DIY info on here.

Yea, I thought so too , but it's done now. I was charged like 450. for the starter, and the rest was labor. He said he had to remove the intake to get to the starter.

[RossBMWZseries]

I remember I bought a new OEM starter for ~$130. My mechanic quoted me $150 for labor because the starter is located towards the back of the engine or somewhere near the transmission. Once he started working on it, he realized the cable to the starter was loose. So there's a quote