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      08-24-2015, 06:54 PM   #1
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Rear Shocks and Sping Install

So am I correct that the rear springs and shocks are installed independent of each other if I am researching right? As in I can do the rear springs one weekend and the rear shocks another and not be repeating any work with the exception of jacking the car up, etc?

I was planning to do the front shock/spring and rear springs and then the rear shocks another weekend if I am not wasting any efforts.

Or are my reading comprehension skills poor...........
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      08-24-2015, 07:04 PM   #2
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Yes.
But in order to install new springs in the rear you have to both dismantle the rear swaybarlinks and the rear driveshafts (from the diff flange).
Otherwise you risk breaking the rear swaybarlinks and worse the rear driveshaft seals.

The only think you'd be doing double is the lower rear shock bolt.
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      08-24-2015, 07:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
Yes.
But in order to install new springs in the rear you have to both dismantle the rear swaybarlinks and the rear driveshafts (from the diff flange).
Otherwise you risk breaking the rear swaybarlinks and worse the rear driveshaft seals.

The only think you'd be doing double is the lower rear shock bolt.
Oh dear!
I removed my rear springs and replaced the pads and all I disconnected was the headlight level sensor.
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      08-24-2015, 07:13 PM   #4
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Not sure how different the 3.0 is to the M so YMMV. I did mine last week and you couldchange the springs without touching the rear shock mounts (lower shock bolt will need to come out), but really you should just wait until you do the shocks because the springs will literally fall out (at least on the drivers side...) if you press on the control arm while the shock is removed. It's not a lot of work either way, but why take it apart twice
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      08-24-2015, 07:38 PM   #5
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Rear springs are so quick you should just wait till you get the shocks
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      08-25-2015, 01:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Oh dear!
I removed my rear springs and replaced the pads and all I disconnected was the headlight level sensor.
You risk breaking the rear swaybar link (been there, done that but its a cheap part, you only have to get the part before you can drive), and worse, you risk deforming the drive axle boot holder, so the bootseal isnt 100% guaranteed anymore. In countries with some sort of periodic state checkup (MOT etc) this usually is a failure. This is hard to see but over time you can see grease leaking from the boot. If you find over time tiny grease traces on the subframe near the inner drive axle joints you know you're fucked...
The metal boot cup is of very thin metal and has to be completely round to seal.
Getting a new boot+metal cups on is quite a job.

The way I described to swap out the springs is the way BMW describes how it should be done. Now you know why
Usually people see importance in this method when they say... been there done that as the damage isn't obvious right away and takes a keen eye to spot.
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Last edited by GuidoK; 08-25-2015 at 01:23 PM..
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      08-25-2015, 02:41 PM   #7
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GuidoK Can you give me a link to where your method is so I make sure and use the correct one please?

Also - can you explain why that happens if I do the springs and not the shocks? Just for my information. Is it because I am installing lowering springs with the OEM shocks still on? I was not aware that this was not an option? Maybe I am mis reading it........sorry - new to this car.
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      08-25-2015, 02:59 PM   #8
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Page1

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/z_se...t_coil_spring/

page2
http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/z_se...ing/page_1206/

Here the inner drive flanges
http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/z_se..._output_shaft/

(you don't have to remove the outer nut etc, just remove the inverted torx bolts from the inner diff flanges (the ones that hold the drive axles to the inner flanges)

If you're planning to do more work on your car I suggest you get a working copy of the TIS DVD (TIS= all BMW workshop manuals). It is extremely helpful as it has all the official procedures, tightening torques etc.

You can use lower springs (like eibach springs) with the stock shocks.
For the fronts you obviously need a spring compressor as it is a mcpherson strut.
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      08-28-2015, 08:41 AM   #9
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OK - gathering all my parts for my H&R/Blistein install. I am "that" guy that if I am taking something off - I will look at replacing it at the same time. I bought all new spring pads, Front bump stops, upper strut mounts, rear shock reinforcements, and rear shock mounts.

My car has 75K on it, but has always felt tight and very solid, but hey - I plan to have it awhile and while I am in there.....

Anything else I should look at? How common are front sway bar links for replacement? For $60 I am considering putting them in while I am in there - unless that is just stupid?

Already did FCAB's and sway bushings last year.

Want to tackle everything while I am in there!
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      08-28-2015, 09:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unluky View Post
OK - gathering all my parts for my H&R/Blistein install. I am "that" guy that if I am taking something off - I will look at replacing it at the same time. I bought all new spring pads, Front bump stops, upper strut mounts, rear shock reinforcements, and rear shock mounts.

My car has 75K on it, but has always felt tight and very solid, but hey - I plan to have it awhile and while I am in there.....

Anything else I should look at? How common are front sway bar links for replacement? For $60 I am considering putting them in while I am in there - unless that is just stupid?

Already did FCAB's and sway bushings last year.

Want to tackle everything while I am in there!
LOL, I asked my shop to do the same thing. I just needed one broken rear spring replaced, but $1700 later I got new:

Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs
Koni sport shocks
Rogue Engineering RSM
Meyle FCAB
Front strut mounts
Front upper & lower spring pads
Front bump stops
Front dust boots
Rear upper & lower spring pads
Rear bump stops
Rear dust boots

Do some research on the different sized spring pads - I think we have the option of going 2.5mm, 5mm, 10mm, or 15mm. My kit advertised a 1.2" drop all around, but my rear is now 1/2" lower than my front. You may want to put in a slighter thicker rear spring pad (10mm instead of 5mm) so it looks more even after the installation is done.
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      08-28-2015, 05:44 PM   #11
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I actually did some and that is why I went with the H&R as they have more drop in front that rear. I had Eibach on my 300 and loved them and was planning on going back to them, but I liked the extra drop on the front with the H&R. I guess I could have done that with a pad. I got the 5mm pad to replace the one in the back with, but if I need it I will go up in size to get the rake that I want. I will start with this though.
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      08-29-2015, 10:36 PM   #12
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OK - did the fronts tonight and not so bad at all. Took it for a ride to settle her in and came back and measured about a 1/2" drop so far. About what I expected with the sport suspension.

What I did notice was that my end links were very easy to move - is that normal or should they be stiff? It seems like they should be but I am not sure? I could easily move them with one finger. Time for new ones??

Also I have been pretty dubious when reading how the OEM shocks are shot after 50-70K miles. My car always rode and cornered great with no excessive bouncing or anything. Believe me - with 75K - mine were SHOT. After I got them apart I could push them in with almost no effort and they would take forever to push their way back out. Amazing this car drove that great with them that bad.

Cant wait to get the rears done and see how she handles.
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      08-29-2015, 11:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unluky View Post
... My car always rode and cornered great with no excessive bouncing or anything. Believe me - with 75K - mine were SHOT. After I got them apart I could push them in with almost no effort and they would take forever to push their way back out. ...
Same here. Car seemed to ride pretty well.
After about 80k I pushed all 4 of mine down and they stayed down.
Took up less space in the garbage that way.
Did notice a big difference with the new ones though. Nice and solid.
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      08-30-2015, 10:05 PM   #14
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Just did the rears.....that trunk was a M O T H E R. They people who say it is not must be tiny. The trunk is too small to get in an work (at least for me), too deep to sit on a stool and reach all the way in to the back, and too low to see anything standing up. You have to be in this 1/2 hobbit crouch for almost everything and the clips and fasteners were designed by Satan himself.

I am glad I put all new parts in there so I hope I will NEVER have to do that again.......

The rest was a snap and pretty enjoyable.
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      09-08-2015, 11:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unluky View Post
Just did the rears.....that trunk was a M O T H E R. They people who say it is not must be tiny. The trunk is too small to get in an work (at least for me), too deep to sit on a stool and reach all the way in to the back, and too low to see anything standing up. You have to be in this 1/2 hobbit crouch for almost everything and the clips and fasteners were designed by Satan himself.

I am glad I put all new parts in there so I hope I will NEVER have to do that again.......

The rest was a snap and pretty enjoyable.
Do you have plastic trim removal tools?
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      09-09-2015, 03:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unluky View Post
Just did the rears.....that trunk was a M O T H E R. They people who say it is not must be tiny. The trunk is too small to get in an work (at least for me), too deep to sit on a stool and reach all the way in to the back, and too low to see anything standing up. You have to be in this 1/2 hobbit crouch for almost everything and the clips and fasteners were designed by Satan himself.

I am glad I put all new parts in there so I hope I will NEVER have to do that again.......

The rest was a snap and pretty enjoyable.
I think there might be some kind of learning curve to it, I'm thin and it was a pain in the ass for me too the first time I had to work in that area. I had to do it again about a month ago while installing coilovers, and it must've been less than 10 minutes of work. It might also help that I have the hands of a teenage girl

Also recently did transmission mounts, and the upper nut on the passenger side, jesus christ... not even girl hands will help you there
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      09-09-2015, 09:00 PM   #17
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Yep - had all the tools - just an awkward area. Can't sit on a stool and tech the back, can't get in the trunk, can't bend over for an hour straight to get it all done...... and learning what to take off at the same time. I am sure I would be faster next time - I just sure as he'll hope there is no next time.
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