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      09-23-2015, 06:53 PM   #1
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S54 Won't Rev Over 1,500 RPM after ESS Tune

I had started a post about my M Coupe hesitating under full throttle any any RPM. Unsure if this catastrophic issue is related to that.

Known variables:
-Car arrived with a newly installed used engine 60k mi, valves in spec) that only had a few miles in the new chassis
-Car arrived with ESS supercharger tune (no supercharger), so couldn't be driven hard with the newly installed used engine
-Successfully flashed to ESS S54 tune
-Car experienced .5 second hesitation under full throttle for a couple hundred miles
-Car smelled a little rich but otherwise ran ok
-Only check engine codes were for oil temp/level sensor and EGT probe, along with both banks of O2 sensors
-Attempted to flash car back to OEM tune, but using the "recover" feature caused encrypto error
-Able to flash back to OEM parameters using "program" function


After flashing back, car would not increase over 1,400ish rpm. You can get up to 1,600 by stabbing the throttle, but it just drops down to 600. It is almost like fuel is being cut. It also smells incredibly rich. If you hold the gas pedal at any throttle position the revs will climb until they hit than wall them drop down, and the cycle will continue until you let off the gas. Letting this cycle occur for 30 seconds yields a throttle actuator error, but all throttle actuator tests appear to be fine.

The guys at ESS are 100% certain that the tune would not cause any issues like this and are sure it is hardware related.

My performance BMW shop has spent 12 hours testing and trying to diagnose various items but have not had success pinpointing the issue. They are going to be pulling apart the intake and plenum to get to the actual throttle bodies to see if somehow the shop that out the engine in maybe left a part loose that worked its way out and is jamming or plugging something. I just find it hard to believe that this would start right after an update to the DME. If they can't find anything with the actuator, I will have to replace the DME.

The gentleman I bought it from (Tommy) has remained in communication and has promised to help pay for whatever the final costs of getting the car running properly are.

I am more starting this thread as a diagnostic diary in case anyone else ever had an issue like this. But if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions feel free to post up.
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      09-23-2015, 08:39 PM   #2
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Did the shop check to see if the O2 sensors had been swapped?
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      09-23-2015, 08:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches
Did the shop check to see if the O2 sensors had been swapped?
I believe one bank had been disconnected and the others were still in there. They said the wiring was not done well, so they soldered it and heat shrinked it. A bad O2 sensor would not cause this cutoff at 1500 rpm though.
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      09-23-2015, 09:14 PM   #4
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Hard to believe it would be anything other than the last load you did being corrupted. If you had a way to reflash to the load the car came with, I'd do that to see if at least that same level of performance was restored.
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      09-23-2015, 09:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright
Hard to believe it would be anything other than the last load you did being corrupted. If you had a way to reflash to the load the car came with, I'd do that to see if at least that same level of performance was restored.
Tried to "recover" using the supercharger tune that the car came with because it would still run and drive with that, but even loading that would still cause cutoff at 1500.

I also believe it has something to do with some weird file somewhere on the DME. It isn't showing the codes for failed oil level and EGT even though I KNOW those are bad and the car didn't have to be running to throw them before after cleaning things. It is like there is a bad memory block that isn't giving an error message.
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      09-23-2015, 11:23 PM   #6
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Maybe a silly question but did you maybe happen to do an oil change as well and forget to plug the connector blocking the oil filter cap back ? I forgot once and couldn't rev above 1500rpm. Anything beyond that I would say it is directly related to tune.
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      09-24-2015, 02:44 AM   #7
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Previous to engine swap was car running good? What codes are you throwing?

Can you go back to bog stock tune? If the original tune was by ess, they should have the original on file..
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      09-24-2015, 10:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGR View Post
I believe one bank had been disconnected and the others were still in there. They said the wiring was not done well, so they soldered it and heat shrinked it. A bad O2 sensor would not cause this cutoff at 1500 rpm though.
I would still fix what you know is broken first. Disregard if this has already been done.
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      09-24-2015, 01:44 PM   #9
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As I said in your other thread I think your problem originates from a bad crank shaft sensor or cam shaft sensor that just got even worse.
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      09-24-2015, 03:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westersund
As I said in your other thread I think your problem originates from a bad crank shaft sensor or cam shaft sensor that just got even worse.
Those sensors were tested and reading properly. They were not replaced though.
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      09-24-2015, 03:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanne
Previous to engine swap was car running good? What codes are you throwing?

Can you go back to bog stock tune? If the original tune was by ess, they should have the original on file..
I did load bog tune, but it still has the same rev issue.
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      09-24-2015, 03:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches
Quote:
Originally Posted by BGR View Post
I believe one bank had been disconnected and the others were still in there. They said the wiring was not done well, so they soldered it and heat shrinked it. A bad O2 sensor would not cause this cutoff at 1500 rpm though.
I would still fix what you know is broken first. Disregard if this has already been done.
The wiring has been cleaned up and to my knowledge zero codes are being thrown now. Not even the two that persisted before after clearing (oil level and egt). This is obviously odd and to me is a sign the DME is screwy.

For the question about an oil change, it was done recently but has had about 200 miles since then.
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      09-24-2015, 03:55 PM   #13
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was the LCM ever changed or is the DME from the original engine or the replacement?
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      09-24-2015, 04:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r
was the LCM ever changed or is the DME from the original engine or the replacement?
Not sure what you mean by LCM but my understanding is the DME was not swapped out with the engine, since it still had the supercharger tune on it.
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      09-24-2015, 05:40 PM   #15
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LCM is the lighting control module and it is tied to the DME.
If one is replaced then it is a mismatch and needs to be paired.
I'm not sure if it puts the car in limp mode or not.

....just spit balling.
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      09-24-2015, 06:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r
LCM is the lighting control module and it is tied to the DME.
If one is replaced then it is a mismatch and needs to be paired.
I'm not sure if it puts the car in limp mode or not.

....just spit balling.
Is the LCM part of the engine? Not sure why it would have been replaced if the engine was based on the name...
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      09-24-2015, 07:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGR View Post
The wiring has been cleaned up and to my knowledge zero codes are being thrown now.
If your car goes into emergency mode (that's what this is, revs limited to 1500rpm), then there must be a code. Use INPA, DIS or Rheingold to get the correct EOBD code.
Get that code. Now it's just a useless guessing game. And I mean the specific code with bmw's description, not some dodgy description as 'the o2 sensor gave 'a' code.
So for example a screenshot like this:




buying a non runner with engine swap and tuning is a sure way to disaster, but you probably know that by now.
You never know what the previous botcher did. He might have been cutting wires in the middle of the of one of the wiring loom for all you know. (Not that I'm saying he did, but the problem is that you don't know what he did because you weren't standing next to him)

This problem is way too complicated to solve with ample info. I mean if your performance shop already has problems troubleshooting..
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      09-24-2015, 08:02 PM   #18
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This DME is the MSS70. The codes were pulled with an OEM BMW factory scan tool by the shop it is currently at. This isn't some scrub blindly throwing parts at the car. This is one of the best techs in the area systematically ruling out possibilities.

When I ran the codes before getting this cutoff issue, I pulled the following.

// 1) 2E7C bit serial data interface, signal (BSD wire failure)
// 2) 2C92 EGT sensor, electric
// 3) 2C9C Output heater 02-sensor before catalyst
// 4) 2C9D Output heater 02-sensor before catalyst (bank 2)
// 5) 2C9E Control heater sensor after cat
// 6) 2C9F Control heater sensor after cat (bank 2)

Obviously this is not an ideal situation, but right now all I'm out is time. I still have no regrets buying this car.
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      09-24-2015, 08:03 PM   #19
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Also, it was a fairly reputable shop that did the swap.
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      09-24-2015, 08:51 PM   #20
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Obviously there is something wrong with the heatercircuit of all your 02 sensors.
Either sensors itself, or wiring.
Do a resistancecheck on the heaterwires and measure if they get voltage and current.
It might even be the fuse...
EGT code might be more difficult. You still have the stock exhaust?
The 2E7C might also be difficult, but that might also be connected to the egt problem. Dodgy wiring, dodgy ground somewhere or worse....

It may be a reputable shop that did the swap but if they did deliver a car with codes and half a sc tune, that reputation isn't worth much in my book.
Swapping the engine itself or installing or removing a supercharger isn't exactly rocketscience.
Is it now in the same shop that did the swap?
Did they also replace wiring and ecu's? If so: why?
First i'd try to get the original bmw tune in again, if that's still possible. Now you don't know if the emergency program running is related to the codes you're reading or if the tune is dodgy too.
This would be so much easier to diagnose if you could just swap out ecu's

It's also not clear what the history of this car is. Was the car supercharged? Was the used engine supercharged? etc etc.

I still like to know what tool they used to get the codes. It can't be OEM, that's afaik only available to a bmw certified dealer. So it's either a copy (like we use, all the INPA/DIS/ISTAD software + cables/multiplexers you can get (ebay etc etc) are hacked copies) or they used some generic device (like an autel maxidas etc). You did not take a look what stuff they had in their hands and what it said on the screen? The screen I posted was (obviously) a screenshot from INPA. You can see it gives a bunch of info on a specific code, including the operating parameters when the code occurs. That can be key in solving the problem. So that is the info we're looking for
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Last edited by GuidoK; 09-24-2015 at 09:09 PM..
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      09-24-2015, 09:36 PM   #21
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Not possible to get original tune back. Dealer tried to flash DME back to an original version of the DME software from 2009, which was accepted, but the problem persisted.

I probably misunderstood the type of scan tool they are using if a true factory tool can only be had by BMW dealers.

Is it possible for a memory module to fail or become corrupted? The reason I personally don't think this is hardware related (other than brain hardware) is it didn't happen when I was driving. Everything was working 90% fine (hesitation and the codes above being the only issues) until I tried to flash it back to the stock tune. It's not like it broke down on the road... I drove it home, parked it, tried to flash it, and ever since it has been doing this.

The car starts and idles perfectly fine.
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      09-25-2015, 04:59 AM   #22
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A faulty LCM will not put the car into limp mode.

The chassis mileage is stored in two places, the DME and LCM. If the two are mismatched, then a 'dot' is displayed next to the odometer mileage. If one of the modules are/is replaced, then both must be synchronized. They synchronization process always uses the HIGHEST mileage number for synchronization. This means if you use a previously used module for a replacement, and it has a higher mileage number, the higher number will always be used.
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