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      04-09-2013, 06:26 PM   #67
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Got a metric torque wrench today, decided on a dial type torque wrench. Not as convenient as a click type torque wrench, but doesn't require calibration nearly as often.

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      04-09-2013, 06:58 PM   #68
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Very nice
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      04-10-2013, 04:09 PM   #69
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And I think that's the last of my parts and tools:



- Had to order the 7mm on the left as well as the 24mm slim profile on the right, I had the 10-19mm already.

- Windshield wiper blades. The new part on that is: 61611470281 and it includes both blades. The previous part numbers for individual blades no longer work.

- Extended spark plug socket from ecs.

- Vanos handle (silver).

- Flywheel locking pin (black).

- Bottom right are the elastic straps for convertible top slamming.

I think that's all the parts I need. Wallet feels a lot lighter
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      05-07-2013, 12:11 AM   #70
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Learned a few things last weekend

My theory about being able to move the camshafts back and forth with the vanos installed to check the limits of vanos piston travel didn't pan out. Even with the solenoid block and end caps removed, camshafts wouldn't budge.

The end caps are sealed with O-rings. Not sure where to get new ones. Beisan maybe?

The "default" position for the intake is about dead on the alignment hole, and with the teeth "sticking out just a bit" as expected.
The default position for the exhaust is significantly advanced, and since I couldn't get the vanos piston to budge so I could turn the camshaft, the alignment tool was largely useless to me. You can see the default positions clearly in the 7th pic down in this thread, right under "A shot with the VANOS unit removed. Scary but sexy." Notice how far the exhaust spline is driven in.

I seem to remember talk about there being a long and short flywheel locking pin. Thought the short one was on the list, but I got 83300490861 and had to saw it in half.

I was trying to fix this left over from when my indie replaced my vanos bolts and couldn't get the camshafts aligned worth beans. Decided I was going to have to wing it.

Made careful marks, loosened the hub bolts and turned the camshaft and hub together very slightly CCW. WRONG. Started hard, idled badly, and I could hear the vanos hunting. Tore it apart again, turned slightly CW. Got the 14.0° error down to 8.9°. Learned a couple things about INPA on the way.

If the adaptation is on the + side of zero, you're too retarded camshaft needs to move CW (viewed looking at the front of the engine) by the indicated amount.

Here's what I would suggest after diddling with the vanos:
Get INPA running and visible from the driver's seat before starting the car for the first time.
Clear all adaptations, or at least the vanos.
When you first start it, everything will look nominal. After about 2 minutes, if there's an error, it will show up as a difference between the actual and commanded (sollwert). The adaptation won't kick in until you drive it a little.
Before adjustment mine showed an actual of 114.6 for a commanded of 127.4. After adjustment it was up to 119.9 for the same commanded. Less than the adaptation values. It slowly creeps up as the engine gets warm.

The 8.9° error is at least now in the green zone. Close enough until I do a scheduled valve adjustment in a few months. Then I'll twist it the rest of the way. Car seems to run smoother and the cold start phenomenon seems to have gone away. I think the large error was not letting it set the default position as far advanced as it wanted for optimum starting.

Last edited by StickMon; 05-07-2013 at 12:21 AM..
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      05-08-2013, 01:39 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
The "default" position for the intake is about dead on the alignment hole, and with the teeth "sticking out just a bit" as expected.
The default position for the exhaust is significantly advanced, and since I couldn't get the vanos piston to budge so I could turn the camshaft, the alignment tool was largely useless to me. You can see the default positions clearly in the 7th pic down in this thread, right under "A shot with the VANOS unit removed. Scary but sexy." Notice how far the exhaust spline is driven in.
Yeah I ran into the same thing. Intake is just slightly off, exhaust is completely to the left. This is the position most advantageous to starting the engine and isn't what you adjust to, so you can't use the tool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
I seem to remember talk about there being a long and short flywheel locking pin.
There are different sizes? The guy at my shop made his own "z4m flywheel locking pin" by sawing it in half as well. I'm going to have to saw mine in half too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Made careful marks, loosened the hub bolts and turned the camshaft and hub together very slightly CCW. WRONG. Started hard, idled badly, and I could hear the vanos hunting. Tore it apart again, turned slightly CW. Got the 14.0° error down to 8.9°. Learned a couple things about INPA on the way.

If the adaptation is on the + side of zero, you're too retarded camshaft needs to move CW (viewed looking at the front of the engine) by the indicated amount.

Here's what I would suggest after diddling with the vanos:
Get INPA running and visible from the driver's seat before starting the car for the first time.
Clear all adaptations, or at least the vanos.
When you first start it, everything will look nominal. After about 2 minutes, if there's an error, it will show up as a difference between the actual and commanded (sollwert). The adaptation won't kick in until you drive it a little.
Before adjustment mine showed an actual of 114.6 for a commanded of 127.4. After adjustment it was up to 119.9 for the same commanded. Less than the adaptation values. It slowly creeps up as the engine gets warm.

The 8.9° error is at least now in the green zone. Close enough until I do a scheduled valve adjustment in a few months. Then I'll twist it the rest of the way. Car seems to run smoother and the cold start phenomenon seems to have gone away. I think the large error was not letting it set the default position as far advanced as it wanted for optimum starting.
Thanks for sharing your experience.

So after gathering more information, to properly do this procedure you have to secure the engine in the installation position, which tilts it up slightly and allows you enough space to work on the Vanos.

See the attached PDF for more info.

This thread has a picture of the engine in the installation position.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf job_6-RA__Securing_engine_in_installation_position__S54_.pdf (611.6 KB, 317 views)
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      06-07-2013, 01:47 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
...

I was planning on torquing them to 8 Nm instead of 10 to account for the extra leverage.
I don't know where we got 10 Nm. I was reading TIS 11 31 505 last night (Adjusting camshaft timing (S54)), and 10 Nm (-90°) is the pretension torque. The final torque is 14 Nm.

I'm going to buy the air hose adapter just to round out the tool set. I was thinking I could just jam the rubber cone attachment on my air blaster into the hole, but that'll make it a 3 handed operation.
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      06-07-2013, 05:11 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
I don't know where we got 10 Nm. I was reading TIS 11 31 505 last night (Adjusting camshaft timing (S54)), and 10 Nm (-90°) is the pretension torque. The final torque is 14 Nm.

I'm going to buy the air hose adapter just to round out the tool set. I was thinking I could just jam the rubber cone attachment on my air blaster into the hole, but that'll make it a 3 handed operation.
Yes you are right:

Bolts go to 10Nm, then get loosened 90 degrees. Then when you are done they go to 14Nm.

I was probably looking at the CCW threads for the gears that do go to 10Nm.
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      06-19-2013, 05:19 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
Don't want to be specific, but less than a new one (with deposit), and you can ship yours to him to get your deposit back.

So I figured and I'd hijack my own thread, to turn it into a how to do this. I'm considering sending him a new one instead of a used one, not sure it's worth the money or not.

Parts list:

1x Exhaust Hub 11367832031
12x interior vanos hub bolts 07129905536
1x vanos gasket 11367831938
2x banjo bolts 07119905175
4x banjo washers 07119963072

Parts shared with valve adjustment:

1x Valve Cover Gasket 11127832034
6x Spark Plug Hole Gasket 11127831271
2x Valve Cover Seal Washer Grommet 11121437395
13x Valve Cover Nut Grommet 11127830972
2x PCV Return Line Gasket 07119963129

Tools:

11 9 130 / 83300493749 - Cam Timing Tool
11 7 342 / 83300491086 - Extra Cam Locking Pin
11 2 300 / 83300490861 - Flywheel Locking Pin

Optional tools:
11 7 160 / 83300493805 - Vanos Adj of Spline Hub handle
11 5 100 / 83300491056 - Crank turning fixture

DIY links:

SYT Shadow DIY

Hutch 430 Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5

Part numbers for special tools

I need some help with the tools I'll need. I imagine I need a set of small spanners. I'm also going to need a small torque click wrench. I was hoping for split beam (as they don't lose precision, nothing under tension), but they don't seem to make them for small numbers like 10Nm. I like to get the best tools I can afford and pass them down to the kids.

Do I need to jack the car up on the Z4M? or can everything be done from the top?


Hi everyone

You guys can follow my DIY on the other forum. You can access everything through the top.
The only difference for the Z m is you need the water pump tool as there'd no fan clutch.

I have 27k miles on my V3, including track days.

The best part of this design is that if it fails you just get a CEL. No possibility of a tab destroying your engine.

Feel free to ask questions.

Cheers
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