2016 Z4M

[SaltyNC]

Woohoo! I feel like I traded my 2006 Z4M roadster for a 2016 Z4M. I know a lot of this is old hat for you guys, but for anyone just getting into the Z4s and Z4Ms, I highly recommend the Vibra Technics engine mounts, Rogue transmission mounts, weighted shift knob, and throw that dang CDV in the garbage. I also had a valve job, engine mounting bolts replaced, and all fluids replaced. Just got the car back a few minutes ago. Wow! The car is like a brand new one. I am loving it! Shifting 1st to 2nd is now a pleasure, and none of that weird CDV-induced 2nd gear weirdness. You know what I'm talking about.

I also had the grease applied to the differential input flange per the service bulletin, and yeah baby, NO MORE CLUNK! Doing a wiggle dance.

And if all that weren't enough, we installed the Strömung exhaust, and now I can't keep my foot out of the pedal. It sounds awesome.

Salty

[elerner61]

Very cool. How would you describe differences made by the engine and transmission mounts? My tranny has luckily been one of the good ones, no real notchiness on the 1-2 shift.

And yeah, getting that CDV outta there while not a 100% night and day does make it come together much better all the time.

Can you point me to the "grease on the diff input flange" service bulletin? I've never heard of that in the 4.5 years I've had the car.

I'm looking forward to doing my FCABs and RTABs when it warms up and see how that freshens things up (55k miles)

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by SaltyNC

Woohoo! I feel like I traded my 2006 Z4M roadster for a 2016 Z4M. I know a lot of this is old hat for you guys, but for anyone just getting into the Z4s and Z4Ms, I highly recommend the Vibra Technics engine mounts, Rogue transmission mounts, weighted shift knob, and throw that dang CDV in the garbage. I also had a valve job, engine mounting bolts replaced, and all fluids replaced. Just got the car back a few minutes ago. Wow! The car is like a brand new one. I am loving it! Shifting 1st to 2nd is now a pleasure, and none of that weird CDV-induced 2nd gear weirdness. You know what I'm talking about.

I also had the grease applied to the differential input flange per the service bulletin, and yeah baby, NO MORE CLUNK! Doing a wiggle dance.

And if all that weren't enough, we installed the Strömung exhaust, and now I can't keep my foot out of the pedal. It sounds awesome.

Salty

"Tell us what Salty's won Bob!"

"It's a brand new car!!!"



Good to hear buddy! Well done.

[IN10SS]

Way to go! Start planning for a mountain trip to explore your new limits!

[yousefnjr]

That feeling when you fall in love with the car all over again...

[SaltyNC]

Originally Posted by elerner61

Very cool. How would you describe differences made by the engine and transmission mounts? My tranny has luckily been one of the good ones, no real notchiness on the 1-2 shift.

And yeah, getting that CDV outta there while not a 100% night and day does make it come together much better all the time.

Can you point me to the "grease on the diff input flange" service bulletin? I've never heard of that in the 4.5 years I've had the car.

I'm looking forward to doing my FCABs and RTABs when it warms up and see how that freshens things up (55k miles)

It's very hard to describe. The car just feels more solid, more connected. I had some issues going 1st to 2nd. It was extremely notchy. I would also get an occasional 3rd to 4th denial at lower RPMs. All of that is gone. I had a lot done at once with the fluid change and both mounts done at the same time, so its' hard for me to say exactly how each change contributed to the feeling of the car. When I say it feels like a new car, I'm not kidding. Many others have made similar comments about the VT engine mounts. Fantastic mod.

Here is a link to the original SB:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...8#post28851588

Others have also used Loctite 660 on the splines. I don't think my indy did that -- just the grease. I hope it holds, but right now, the clunk is completely gone. I could keep it from happening most of the time just with shifting adjustments, but it's nice to not have to worry about it.

Salty

[SaltyNC]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

"Tell us what Salty's win Bob!"

"It's a brand new car!!!"



Good to hear buddy! Well done.

LOL Thanks, Finnegan. I would have been lost without this forum. All of the great info allowed me to put together a great list of everything that needed to be done. Now, I just hope it is smooth sailing for the next 30K. :-)

Salty

[SaltyNC]

Originally Posted by IN10SS

Way to go! Start planning for a mountain trip to explore your new limits!

Thanks, Larry. Now I know what you mean about changing driving habits with the Strömung. I love how it's completely silent (relatively) in the car while cruising and with every increase in the throttle the exhaust comes to life. I was surprised by that while cruising back in 6th gear. Every time I would accelerate, vroom, and then it would go silent. Love it! I bet it is awesome in the mountains hanging out in lower gears and getting on it exiting every curve.

Salty

[SaltyNC]

Originally Posted by yousefnjr

That feeling when you fall in love with the car all over again...

Absolutely!

Salty

[PLCZ4MC]

Is all those changes you made like something the dealer would do in an inspection 1 or 2?
I really feel like my first to second gear sucks. Did you just bought the parts and change it yourself? I am very interested in this.

[XMetal]

Originally Posted by PLCZ4M

Is all those changes you made like something the dealer would do in an inspection 1 or 2?
I really feel like my first to second gear sucks. Did you just bought the parts and change it yourself? I am very interested in this.

You can buy the parts and have an independent change it for you if you don't want to DIY. Dealers (and some independents) are most likely not willing to install non-OE (aftermarket) parts. Coast Motorwerks won't install it for me

I did mine in stages. RE transmission mounts were purchased and installed at EAS before I knew about VT mounts. I also had EAS replaced the engine mount bolts with the uprated 10.9 motorsports version at the same time (I brought them the bolts). VT mounts were purchased through the group buy here a while back and got Bullet Performance in Costa Mesa to install that for me.

[TennesseeZ4]

You know you M guys are creating some M-vie here. I have driven a roadster and a coupe, both M's, and will say that it is a very different experience than my 3.0. That being said, I don't know that i would ever use the 'extra'. But when I read about the M-folks, it sure does stir my curiosity on ownership. Keep writing, and keep driving!!!!

[SaltyNC]

Originally Posted by PLCZ4M

Is all those changes you made like something the dealer would do in an inspection 1 or 2?
I really feel like my first to second gear sucks. Did you just bought the parts and change it yourself? I am very interested in this.

I bought my car from an independent dealer, and with a little research, I figured out the previous owner. He had died, and in the latter years, he did more biking than driving the Z4M roadster, so it racked up only 2K miles per year or so. The car was maintained and BMW had records, but Inspection 1 was not performed. It was driven very little for the last 5 years, and I knew from the service logs that the fluids such as brake/clutch and oil had not been changed yearly. The previous owner probably didn't think it needed to be done with the car sitting. So, I was coming at this with some unknowns, and for obvious reasons couldn't speak to the previous owner. So, I decided to do Inspection 1 as a given. I also spent a month researching the car on this and other forums and trying to determine common weak points and recommended upgrades. Below is what I ultimately presented to an independent mechanic. Doing all of this at once was not cheap, but it is now out of the way, and I'm extremely happy. Now, I will baby it from here out. Also, I will be sending the oil and trans fluid off for an analysis that will hopefully give me some insight in the state of the trans and engine that can't be seen.

Car had 33000 miles when this was performed.

Here's my work list:
Known Problems

• All fluids need to be changed (capture engine oil and trans oil for analysis—interested in bearing wear and synchro wear. Previous owner died unexpectedly – history of car unknown. Middle-aged gentleman, rarely driven)
• Oil was overfilled (Oil uses 5.5 L, not 6.5 to 7 as many think for some reason)
• Inspection I never performed (contacted dealership)– some light valve or vanos noise at 2500-3000 RPM – may be normal (was valve noise engine now quiet)
• Drivetrain clunks probably beyond normal. Very sloppy. (fixed)
• Shifting notchy and noisy (may be normal – know about 1st to 2nd shift characteristics) (completely gone)
• Please drive and evaluate

• Fluids
o Oil change with new OEM Twin Power Turbo ///M 10W-60 5.5L
• Have kit with oil, filter, seals, and new plug
• Capture sample for oil analysis from mid-stream
o Brake and Clutch Flush, Refill, and Bleed
o Transmission Oil Replace (Royal Purple Synchromesh, Redline, or OEM?) (Used Redline)
• Capture sample for oil analysis from mid-stream
• Rarely get 3rd to 4th deny at low revs (gone)
o Differential Oil Replace (OEM or Redline?) (Yes - Redline)
o Replace coolant? (Yes)
o Inspect power steering expansion cable (trombone slide) for leaks and wear against oil pan (Part 32 41 2 283 893)
o Oil was over-filled. Anything to check? CPV valve? (upgrade o-ring to Viton)
o Fuel filter?

• Drivetrain/Clutch
o Drivetrain clunking (beyond normal ///M sounds?)
Possible issues: driveshaft, cv joints, center bearing, giubo, differential mounting bolts loose, diff flange requires grease?

SI B33 04 08
Rear Axle
August 2009
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B33 04 09 dated October 2008.
[NEW] designates changes to this revision
The differential input flange mating surface with the input drive pinion is insufficiently greased.
E82 and E88 (1 Series), all models
E85 and E86 (Z4), all models
E60 and E61 (5 Series), all models
E63 and E64 (6 Series), all models
E65 and E66 (7 Series), all models
E90, E91, E92 and E93 (3 Series), all models
The customer complains that a single cracking or clicking noise can be heard from the rear of the vehicle while engaging a drive gear, releasing the clutch, during load reversal (shifting from reverse to drive, etc.), or when accelerating from a stationary position.
This is not a failure of the differential assembly. Do not replace the complete differential.
Remove the differential drive flange in accordance with Repair Instruction RA 33 11 021. Apply lubricant [NEW] P/N 83 23 0 443 864 on the input flange mating surface (1), as described in the illustration.
Before complete reassembly. replace the input flange seal and collar nut retaining plate as described in RA 33 01 021. Refer to the EPC for correct part numbers, based on model.

o Replace CDV with Zeckhausen modified CDV (have part)

• Engine
o Valve adjustment (shimmed-sounds great)
o Inspect vanos (OK)
• Bolts (loose, rattle)? (No)
• Exhaust hub tabs broken? (No)
• Inspect Timing chain guide (good)
• Eventually upgrade all parts in VANOS (Dr. Vanos, Beisan, etc – not now unless necessary)
o Replace engine mount bolts with upgraded 10.9 bolts and washers (have parts) – were current ones broken or loose? (No)
o Replace engine mounts with Vibra Technics (requires tab to be hammered down on mounting bracket) (have parts)
o Check for proper torque on strut tower braces and shock mounts. Strut tower braces show signs of movement in the past (don’t think this is the cause of my car’s drivetrain clunk, though it can be in some situations)
o Air Filter? (yes)
o Spark plugs? (yes - probably OK, but what they heck, we're there)

• Suspension
o Inspect bushings (OK)
o Inspect springs (broken?) and shocks (OK)
o If springs broken, upgrade to H&R coilovers? Also Rogue Engineering rear shock mount replacement for future use. – only if spring broken at this point.
• Underbody
o Passenger side from front wheel well -- looks like tar. Replace wheel well liner.

Salty

[Vanne]

mate, shagged bushes, around 30K for engine and tranny, for me made the most noticeable difference when i had them done on my Z. And your spot on mate, feels like your driving a spanking new car. The connection to the road is awesome.

congrats Salty,

[CBS]

Congrats Salty! You have convinced me, I need to do the same/similar work. When you get a chance can you pm me your Indy and approx cost? The 1-2 shift notchiness is killing me!

Cheers,
Chris

[SaltyNC]

Originally Posted by CBS

Congrats Salty! You have convinced me, I need to do the same/similar work. When you get a chance can you pm me your Indy and approx cost? The 1-2 shift notchiness is killing me!

Cheers,
Chris

Thanks, Chris. I'll send you the info.

Salty