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01-11-2016, 01:53 PM | #1 |
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As soon as spring rolls around, plan on doing vcg and ohg, but def wanted to start the season off with a decent mod...definable doing the rogue ssk, but undecided on either changing out the diff or biting the bullet and going for the ss headers and aa tune. I can get a 3.64 for relatively cheap (100) but really want the 3.73 which I've found for around 450. Which would you guys recommend? Also any info on when the next avail sale on the ss headers would be since I missed Black Fridays?
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01-11-2016, 03:31 PM | #2 |
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Honestly, I'd think that you would go faster if you just burned that money instead. I'm really suspicious of any gains a tune may actually get you, since this is not a forced induction engine. Similar thoughts on the headers (though that may get negligible gains)...
The higher diff would obviously increase acceleration, but if you do any track work, it might be worthwhile upgrading directly to an LSD. This is, of course, quite a bit more expensive... One man's opinion... -gc |
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01-11-2016, 04:04 PM | #3 |
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I'd have to say that removing the restrictive cats and opening up with just the headers would yield some gains, I'm not expecting to get astronomical gains, just an extra kick plus the extra growl wouldn't hurt. As far as the tune goes it would be more to just get the most out of what's there and remove the CEL, and again wouldn't be expecting anything neck breaking. If I were to get the diff, then eventually would work in the lsd in the near future, but input appreciated
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01-11-2016, 05:16 PM | #4 |
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Do the rear diff, best bang for the buck
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01-13-2016, 04:53 AM | #5 |
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Also just thought about possibly doing the bmw motor mounts or vibra technic mounts with the re tranny mounts, any knowledge of the degree of difficulty to install these?
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01-13-2016, 02:52 PM | #6 |
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The most complicated parts of the job are pulling the intake box and getting to the nuts on top of the trans mounts.
Not a difficult job. Took me about 4-5 hours, but I doodle around a lot. Get a replacement gasket for the air injector on the exhaust side. With the air injector in place you can't get the heat shield off the exhaust side, which makes it trickier to torque the motor mount top nut. I didn't have a gasket so I was afraid to take mine off, lest the gasket turn to crumbs. While you're at it, you'll want to put some 10.9 bolts and Nord-Locks in the motor mount brackets.
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01-13-2016, 03:53 PM | #7 |
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Wondering if there's any difference between the si and m install, also are nuts and bolts required or just an added benefit?
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01-13-2016, 04:05 PM | #8 |
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I could be wrong but I believe the M and the non M is a different arrangement for the motor mounts. The trans mounts are the same.
The motor mounts on my 3.0i were relatively easy to do. I do not have the stock air box mind you. You do need to jack up the motor to remove the old mount and put in the new. Check out the Megan mounts. I have those installed, the quality is very good. http://www.meganracing.com/products/...=1329&catid=93
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01-13-2016, 04:25 PM | #9 |
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m & non-M motor mounts are the same
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01-13-2016, 04:34 PM | #10 |
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What are the bolts that people talk about replacing?
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01-13-2016, 06:11 PM | #11 |
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....bolts at the block
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01-13-2016, 06:41 PM | #12 |
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Unless you're going to jack the motor a heck of a way up to replace the mounts you're going to be removing those bolts anyway.
Might as well put some new and better ones back in. They're about a buck a piece.
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01-13-2016, 08:00 PM | #13 |
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Thanks Ian, I had read of the M cars having issues with these but not non M.
Seeing as I have my brackets out right now I will replace with high grade hardware.
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01-14-2016, 04:32 AM | #14 |
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Awesome info. I've got my work cut out for me this spring . So far my list includes: vcg & ohg, rogue ssk and tran mounts, vibra engine mounts, 3.73 diff, and front h&r sway bar. Now all that's needed iswarm weather
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01-15-2016, 09:16 PM | #15 |
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Quaife LSD
I learned many lessons while racing SCCA, one of the more valuable was the installation of the Quaife differential. If you upgrade the diff, go Quaife. The difference is noticeable in exit power, simply no comparison to a locked or off the shelf LSD. Diff life was excellent and the wear patterns on tear down were negligible. That is my $3,000 worth today, and no, i did not win the lottery.
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01-15-2016, 11:23 PM | #16 |
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Diff upgrade will def be in the near future, but that wil be next springs to do list
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01-16-2016, 09:22 AM | #17 |
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Why 3.73? It's very aggressive for a street car. 3.64 is actually on the aggressive side.
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01-16-2016, 10:23 AM | #18 |
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In part bc I don't really hit that high of speeds on my spirited drives, mostly quick accelerations on an open road and feel that I wouldn't notice that big of a difference from the 3.46 to 3.64...but that's just me assuming prior to having felt the actual difference amongst them.
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01-16-2016, 03:44 PM | #19 |
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Ah, I didn't see that you had an si coupe (3.46). I bought my latest diff from a 3.0si track car, who moved to a 3.73. I felt the 3.64 was very aggressive, but then again I'm FI with raised boost.
I need to put together a review. For a street car, the Quaife is the way to go. I've got a wheel speed sensor out and DSC is disabled, so I've spent some time testing without the driver aids. I feel like the car could easily handle another 100 horsepower without overwhelming the tires. I was concerned the limits would be higher but the cost of exceeding them (both rear wheels spinning) would be such that the car would suddenly bite you, but honestly you would have to be ignoring every signal the car is giving you to make something dramatic happen. Rear end grip is amazing, both straight line and when powering out of corners. It may be because it's still new to me, but I like this diff more than the trick M diff.
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01-23-2016, 01:17 PM | #20 |
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You and I should hit up dyno, then we'll see what exactly you gain from headers and tune and you can decide for yourself.
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01-23-2016, 01:20 PM | #21 |
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Id definitely be down for that come spring
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