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01-24-2018, 09:57 AM | #1 |
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help - no heat
Fan motor works fine. I can direct the air wherever it needs to go. Temps on the gauge read completely normal - just no heat out of any of the vents no matter where the air is directed.
'06 3.0si daily driver. The heat has been working fine with no problems until yesterday. Any clues about what to check first?
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01-24-2018, 11:09 AM | #2 |
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This might be worth a look. The fix was replacing the "heater core sensor". The video is about an E46. Read the text that accompanies it (he explains how after replacing stuff under the hood, it didn't restore heat in the cabin). Then go to about 27:25...it's where he starts the part about the sensor....its replacement...and success. Hope I'm not leading you astray.
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01-24-2018, 01:34 PM | #3 |
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Thanks Jay - that video was helpful. Gives me a decent idea of what components to test and where they're located.
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01-25-2018, 09:35 AM | #4 |
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I did some research for you yesterday as well. When I poked around the RealOEM diagrams looking for a Heater Control Valve (routes hot coolant to the heater core to control temperature)...I couldn't find one. Reading a variety of other posts, I'm getting the feeling that there isn't one for E85/E86 heater systems. I've got a feeling the heater core always has water running through it and temperature is controlled via a servo actuated door that controls air flow.
Take a look at these RealOem diagrams (links below) . What do folks think? If this is the case, I think your troubleshooting is as follows: 1. Confirm that hot coolant is making its way to the heater core by feeling the hoses heading from the block, through the firewall. There is also small electric pump that is part of that flow (part number 64118369806). 2. If the hose to the heater core is hot, then you'll have to strip some dash pieces to get to the heater core. Confirm that the heater core is getting hot and then visually troubleshoot and see what controls how hot water/air is routed. 3. If there truly is a heat/air "blend door" and that doesn't seem to be moving to route air through the heater core the try to manually move that door to get heat. If that fixes it, then you may have a faulty "Acuator Drive Air Mixture Flap, part number 64116936709" Let us know what comes of this adventure please. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=64_1524 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=64_1281 |
01-25-2018, 10:52 AM | #5 |
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I wasn't sure if E85/86's had a sensor, so before I posted that video, I went to rockauto.com to see if there was such an animal and found one (it is listed as a "cabin air temperature sender").
https://screenshots.firefox.com/zRqN...w.rockauto.com Last edited by 3798j; 01-25-2018 at 11:20 AM.. |
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01-25-2018, 11:05 AM | #6 |
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Thanks Elerner - I was looking over those same diagrams last night at realoem and was starting to come to the same conclusion (no "heater control valve" per se).
I did find the temperature sensor itself per Jay's video (part number 64226915391) but now I'm not sure of an "easy" way to test it since the video mentions disconnecting the electrical connector from the heater control valve to determine if the sensor was the culprit. Here's the kicker though - no heat at all yesterday - but everything was functioning just fine and dandy this morning. So.......now I get to track down an intermittent gremlin. joy. I'll mess with it this weekend and see if I can reach any conclusions. I will say this - the heater in my '66 is somewhat simpler.
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01-25-2018, 11:12 AM | #7 |
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01-25-2018, 11:29 AM | #8 | |
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I checked the part number on that sensor you posted. I think that's actually the ambient air sensor that fits up in the wheel well and not the HVAC sensor.
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01-25-2018, 11:55 AM | #9 | |
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Back in high school, a buddy got a one year old '66 white with blue interior, 289 2bl 210 HP 3 spd manual fastback. That car was surprisingly quick. Hopefully yours will be back on the road soon. |
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01-25-2018, 12:37 PM | #10 | |
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It's been somewhat molested since then. 4:10 trac-loc 9" rear end, Mustang SVO rear disk, 5 speed T5 manual (with a freaking tall 0.68 overdrive), 302 mexican block, small chamber 289 heads with larger chevy valves, performer rpm intake and a 650cfm holley. Relocated front a-arms (per the '65 GT350's), koni shocks, boss 302 front springs (cut 1 coil) and reverse-eye rear leafs. panhard bar. Period correct torq-thrust D's. Can't remember what else. Other than being lowered a bit and the rims, the car looks stock.
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01-25-2018, 02:13 PM | #11 |
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01-26-2018, 09:36 AM | #13 |
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I haven't had an 8 cylinder car in my life for ....way too long. Definitely a need at this point and not a want. What to tell the wife....
Phoo-yuck, intermittent problem. Sorry to hear. I've got to think that sensor is for "auto" mode. Take some pictures while you're in there too!. |
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