VT2-500 install/build/impressions thread

[ZStig]

running with no music in my car for over a week made me realize how loud the euro headers with stock exhaust really is when pushing out all the extra supercharge assisted air. I wouldn't want it much louder.

When I get around to my exhaust, I would change the secondary cats to some quiet resonated mufflers, and if its not too loud by then, do custom corsa mufflers

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by tikamak

Why don't you assess your need for the exhaust before puchasing it?
Have you seen any dyno on a VT2-500 that proves any gains?
All you're spending your earned money is on shiny pieces of stainless steel and a sound that you have never heard in person.

I'd say buy the hangers and some dynamat and keep your money for better usage. your RPI GT exhaust sounds godly, i don't know why you want to change that, it destroys any BMW i've heard so far.

tika since ive had the hardtop the sound is PERFECT..... its really dulled done the ear bleeding racket... its now noise where i can HEAR my motor, i can hear the supercharger, i can hear the bypass valve, i can hear the supercharger whistling and popping away, i can hear the mechanical thrash the s54 has...... i see no reason to change it really, as the DKF group buy looks lik its not happening im happy with my set-up, the euro cats are already high flow items, combined with the RPI and SS xpipe the sound is pretty insane, theirs no noise supression apart from those cats... the car JUST makes it at the uk trackdays, so im more than happy to stay with it tbh.... Combine the Supercharger which makes it sounds very different, its a very unique sound.....

No way would i add dynomatt sound deadening to this car ever.... to much weight, i need to drop some weight where possible.... thats the future really for this vehicle..... But yeah im going to bow out on the DKF setup.... The stock system is Very very good..... Drop the heavy stock mufflers/xpipe with some high flow items combine that with the euro CSL headers ... perfection.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

Interesting.. keep in mind different dynos read differently. Dynojet is the industry standard, and in the summer they had a software upgrade that makes them read 10% lower than before. This was confirmed by a few friends. I don't know if my boost leaked dyno was before or after the update. So you MIGHT get a lower reading than you expect if you used Dynojet before the update, just add 10% to it to compensate

please take this info with a grain of salt though, and do your own research to confirm this

I've been hunting down my electrical gremlin by the process of deduction. I've ran a week with the amplifier disconnected, and haven't seen any issues. I'm 90% sure its the issue now, and most likely a simple wiring fix.

is your battery running down or something??

[ZStig]

sometimes the clock resets, and the car has trouble starting on the first try

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

sometimes the clock resets, and the car has trouble starting on the first try

on a bmw thats a sign the battery is going out.... clock resets, milege trip back to 000 and some wierd shit happening like DSC lights, ABS lights ect ect.....

Bet you need a new battery :-) you put a voltmetre across it??

[ZStig]

hmm... I HAVE been getting the DSC lights, ABS ligts and something else flashing. Dude, I would be so glad to find out that its not my amp

I tried the voltmeter a while ago, and remember getting a normal reading, but will try again. If its the battery, I'm obviously getting a LTW upgrade one.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

hmm... I HAVE been getting the DSC lights, ABS ligts and something else flashing. Dude, I would be so glad to find out that its not my amp

I tried the voltmeter a while ago, and remember getting a normal reading, but will try again. If its the battery, I'm obviously getting a LTW upgrade one.

dont bother getting a LTW one.... ive had nothing but trouble...... ive swapped back to a new AGM battery 3 weeks ago and im in bliss... the z4m has a smart alternator that needs to be registered to a new battery or at least one that isnt to the stock Amp ratings, otherwise the car charges the shit out of the battery thinking its a 70amp item..... i found that out the hard way...... The stock battery tray is REALLy light anyway and is made out of strong plastic and imo with these modern cars now they need a proper battery imo....

I tried and went back to the stock AGM battery, they can take being discharged loads of times, very hard wearing and fit perfectly.... Definatly glad i went back to the stock item......

I was getting the usual, clock reset, trip reset, Wierd DSC, ABS signs..... put a voltmeter across my battery and it was dieing, since the new AGM unit ive not had a single issue.... no more warning lights...... BET you a new battery will solve you issues.... just take my advice and stick with the stock item.
Be warned if you choose a lightweight battery you WILL need to take it to the dealer to get the new battery amp rating loaded into the car so it doesnt do what mine did and charge the shit out of my unit and kill the thing...... Drop EAS a message they will confirm what im saying....

[ZStig]

Didnt u have the crazy lithium battery? What should the stock voltage be? I had a 16lbs oddyssey pc680 on my old z4 with no issues. Want a 14lb battery now. Did ur radio cut out when the lights flashed?

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

Didnt u have the crazy lithium battery? What should the stock voltage be? I had a 16lbs oddyssey pc680 on my old z4 with no issues. Want a 14lb battery now. Did ur radio cut out when the lights flashed?

i did indeed, its still in my garage being used a paper weight, my car fried the Fuck out of it hence why every picture of my car had the trickle charger lead in it... i orginally thought thats how it was with a lightweight battery but after getting all the problems witht he clock resetting, ABS/DSC lights coming on and off, CEL light, i went to my tuner who tested the battery and it was fried to Fuck.....

Since i went back to a new stock battery its been perfect..... not one single issue...... The radio never cut out but as its one of the bigger drains on the system with the nav it doesnt suprise me at all that it can do that..... The car basically shuts down different parametres to keep juice in the battery.....

[ZStig]

BAM! 26 pounds off. Stock battery is 41.5lbs, the Deka EXT20L is 15.5lbs. Started the car, works fine. used the stock bottom plastic piece because there is no carpet under it, drilled 2 holes for the mounting thing's sticks, and it holds perfectly. Just gotta clean up and detail that area so it looks cleaner. Car starts fine. Also have a battery tender, but I don't think I'll need it since I use the car daily. Will see.

More trunk space too. look at the size compared to stock. I can fit 3 of them inside the stock one.

[Beedub]

problem is its the wrong end to loose weight?? its an easy way to loose weight but not worth the bother, make sure you register that battery either your car will cook it.....

interesting my car had an AGM battery where yours isnt??

[ZStig]

Nothing a corner balance can't fix. I think...

Its a quick, cheap way to drop 26lbs, and I don't think its enough to upset the balance. Car drove fine, maybe even felt a little lighter. Its very tough to drop weight on this car. Even my ultra light wheels didn't drop THAT much weight, since the tires are bigger and heavier than stock

[ZStig]

I consulted with "Yoda" before doing this, and here is what he said:

"Weight distribution is irrelevant. You'll find some of the greatest handling über cars have a rear weight bias of about 58% to 42%. Obviously you don't want the majority of your mass on one single axle, but on a 3,000 lbs car, you'll have to shift about 150 lbs to move that percentage significantly.

Corner balancing is not about making the corners weigh the same. Corner balancing brings the cross weight to as close as possible, i.e. front right plus rear left equals front left plus rear right. The end result is when car is put back on the ground, the center of mass is as close to the central axis in the direction the car is traveling. I'm sure you've heard me say this before, but the ONLY reason to get coil-overs is the ability to corner balance the car.

If after all your modifications you end up with an unfavorable weight distribution, like too much mass up front, you can always reduce spring rate up front or stiffen the rear to return to a more neutral chassis."

-the hack

[boydgti]

A volt meter isnt what u need too test the battery u need a load tester.

[ZStig]

So far so good with the battery. Here are clips from my second autocross. Very messy but very fun. The external videos were not meant to set a fast time, they were "fun runs"

[Beedub]

holy shit you can properly hear the air being forced out those restrictive back boxes!! its sounds like a jet.....

whhhhhhhhooosssssssssssssssssssshhhhhhh!!!

[ZStig]

Originally Posted by Beedub

holy shit you can properly hear the air being forced out those restrictive back boxes!! its sounds like a jet.....

whhhhhhhhooosssssssssssssssssssshhhhhhh!!!

Hey come on, the stock boxes are relatively tame buy they flow well! Love the sound of this thing. The power on the straight sections even impressed the instructors. Have to be careful with applying it coming out of corners though. After the last autocross i decided to work on the handling and weight reduction before any more power upgrades. It has plenty for autocross races. My oil temp never even reached the middle mark. It has on the street once but never above. Love the upgraded oil cooler ess provides!

The car looks so mean from the outside, coming at the camera at full throttle

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

Hey come on, the stock boxes are relatively tame buy they flow well! Love the sound of this thing. The power on the straight sections even impressed the instructors. Have to be careful with applying it coming out of corners though. After the last autocross i decided to work on the handling and weight reduction before any more power upgrades. It has plenty for autocross races. My oil temp never even reached the middle mark. It has on the street once but never above. Love the upgraded oil cooler ess provides!

The car looks so mean from the outside, coming at the camera at full throttle

yeahh she sure looks fast, and yes the oil cooler is pretty much awesome, very stable oil temps, ive managed to get mine to the 1 oclock postion during an ALL day sprint session in 25-27 deg C heat.... it really makes a huge difference to the running oil temps....

i likign your thinking, i really think 500 is more than enough now, we need to nail the handling and loose some weight i think......

[tikamak]

I started with handling and grip first

[ZStig]

Low hanging fruit is always easier to reach : )

I had wheels/tires/lowering springs on before the blower, but now i want:

Coilovers
Strut tower bar
Anti roll bars
Front camber hat things
And ltw seats

[Beedub]

[QUOTE=Roffle Waffle;11632105]Low hanging fruit is always easier to reach : )


lol soo true....

ive got all the parts for a complete suspension overhaul now, BUT with only 11k on the car i want to really get some use of of the stock dampers, so when i change i can really feel the difference, for me one of the biggest purchases was the AP BBK but the car felt dangerous on the stock brakes on a track.....

that was right up their with the s/c kit in terms of difference to the car.

[tikamak]

7K worth of mods is not a low hanging fruit ...
it costs higher than a supercharger

7k being: wheels tyres, suspension, (intake, exhaust (pleasure mods))