Z4M Roadster Convertible Top Slamming When Closing - Repair DIY

[jns_e85]

After I purchased by ’06 Z4M, I noticed that the top would slam down the last 6-8 inches when closing before the latching phase. Never having experienced this with my ’04 3.0i (which closes so nicely), I was obviously concerned.

To illustrate what I am on about, here is the video of my convertible top closing on the ///M

Naturally, I went to seek the sage advice of the interwebs through several BMW forums and found this thread http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753458 that not only explains what the problem was, but how to fix it! Unfortunately, there was no DIY that I could find, so I decided to make one. Following the TIS instructions provided by shipkiller on page 3 of the above thread, I got to work

Parts needed:
• Tension Belt – BMW part number 54 34 7 184 482 (per SI B54 14 07, found on page 2 of the above linked thread). Quantity – 2. I ordered these from ECS and they came with the screws needed for installation

Duration: This job took me about 2 hours

Tools needed
• ¼” Ratchet, flexible head a plus
• Trim tool or flat head screw driver
• T20 Torx bit

Other recommendations after installation
• Possess some flexibility
• Magnetic attachments help prevent hunting for dropped screws!


Apologies for the crap video and pics, only have the camera on my phone. Following the TIS pages, the process starts by unhooking the convertible compartment shelf in the trunk.

If connected to the shelf, unhook the canvas attachment, which hooks up from the bottom
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...6438278661.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...5/25901544263/


Next, push out the hinge retaining clips. The clips squeeze in and push up. Be careful how much force you put on them as I almost one a couple down where the hydraulic motor is. I think there should be three on each side, but I only had two.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


After the clips are out, you can unhinge the shelf. The shelf clips into the hinge, so I moved it up part way then used my index finger to unclip it
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


After disconnected from the hinges, the shelf comes out pretty easily. Now comes opening the top part way. This can be done with the shelf in and in the down position so the sensor that allows the top to move can be engaged. For me, I found it to be more annoying trying to remove the shelf with the top open. To bypass the system with the shelf out, there is a metal switch at the bottom of the switch that can be depressed by a helper or with some tape (forgot to take a pic, but here is the switch from another post http://www.zpost.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1317330135).


Open the top part way per the TIS instructions, which will reveal 4 torx screws two on each side of the locking mechanism motor (screws are #24 on this realoem diagram)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=54_0310
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


There is another torx screw under the cover of the locking mechanism motor that needs to be removed
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


The last two torx screws are behind the hinges of the top, with one on each side
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


After these 7 torx screws have been removed, the front headliner will come free, revealing several more screws you have to remove from the center bow
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


Start removing them!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


Next comes the fun contortionist part. As a bigger guy of 6’ 1”, this was the least fun part. Hop in the trunk and locate the existing tension straps. Here is a pic of the drivers side
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


Back out the screws and set them aside. Grab your new tension strap and screws and install! I put the new tension strap under the existing, with the strap threaded over the rear bow to the front of the car. Driver’s side wasn’t too bad, passenger side was a PITA because of the battery. I ended up hopping in the car, going under the headliner and worked around the roll hoops to get the new strap installed (Sorry no pics, too cramped).

After both straps are installed and looped over the rear bow, stick your hand between the headliner and the top and thread them through to the middle bow
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


I installed one screw on each side to hold the strap up while I reattached the middle screws of the headliner strip. I did the middle four to hold it in place, then brought up the corners to install the strap fully, as it goes over the headliner mounting strip
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141976...posted-public/


Reattach all screws and reinstall the headliner. Here is a video of the top closing after installation.

Enjoy your smoother closing top!

[SaltyNC]

Thanks for taking time to do the DIY. I have had the parts for awhile, but haven't talked myself into doing it, yet.

Salty

[StickMon]

Thank you! I may get up the nerve to try this one day.
For years I've just been putting my hand up to catch the top and set it down gently.

[kaybat]

Thanks,this is on my list.

[yousefnjr]

Hate to rain on the parade, but mine didn't last I installed these a couple years ago, and everything was great for a while, but eventually the plastic piece that the straps connect to within the roof cracked, and they no longer hold the same tension.

I remember looking it up and finding that the broken piece wasn't sold separately, so for me it's either live with it, super glue, or pony up for a new roof... Which might not be such a bad thing if it takes care of the (minor) roof rattles!