New to me Z4si advise please

[Aloyouis2]

2008 Z4si, 48k miles, Auto, M Sport package, HiFi Pro sound

I have changed the oil and air filter, replaced the awful RFT's, cleaned the MAF and ordered a BlueBus.

I have ZERO records other than the Carfax which shows I am the 3rd owner. The most recent prior owner had it for 5 years and put 3k total miles on it. It seems to run great and is soooo smooth.

I am moderately handy in the garage and I have most tools. I have a Veepeak OBD tool and both BimmerLink/Code (previous X5 owner). Yes, I now know BL/BC does not work with E85 cars. Great. I am seriously bummed by this as I like to play around with things via those tools.

2 questions for you experienced E85 owners:

1 - MECHANICAL. The car has only 48k on it BUT it is 15 years old. What maintenance should I perform (or have done) now? My feeling is that I must treat this car like nothing has been done.

2 - FUN and PRACTICAL STUFF. As mentioned, I have the BlueBus on order. What other stuff should I consider doing? I will decide on a wind deflector and order that as well. What else?

I will doubtlessly spend hours on here reading (already have) and will discover the fun stuff but if you pros could shorten that process of discovery for me I would really appreciate it. This car will not be a DD (I'm in Michigan), but it will see significant miles from April to October each year.

Thanks!

-Jim

[pungo]

Check vert top hydraulic system for corrosion.
Change all fluids, diff, trans, oil, coolant, brake.
Use NCS Expert in place of bimmercode
Use ISTA+ in place of bimmerlink
USB to OBD II dcan cable.

[Piper1]

Originally Posted by Aloyouis2

2008 Z4si, 48k miles, Auto, M Sport package, HiFi Pro sound

I have changed the oil and air filter, replaced the awful RFT's, cleaned the MAF and ordered a BlueBus.

I have ZERO records other than the Carfax which shows I am the 3rd owner. The most recent prior owner had it for 5 years and put 3k total miles on it. It seems to run great and is soooo smooth.

I am moderately handy in the garage and I have most tools. I have a Veepeak OBD tool and both BimmerLink/Code (previous X5 owner). Yes, I now know BL/BC does not work with E85 cars. Great. I am seriously bummed by this as I like to play around with things via those tools.

2 questions for you experienced E85 owners:

1 - MECHANICAL. The car has only 48k on it BUT it is 15 years old. What maintenance should I perform (or have done) now? My feeling is that I must treat this car like nothing has been done.

2 - FUN and PRACTICAL STUFF. As mentioned, I have the BlueBus on order. What other stuff should I consider doing? I will decide on a wind deflector and order that as well. What else?

I will doubtlessly spend hours on here reading (already have) and will discover the fun stuff but if you pros could shorten that process of discovery for me I would really appreciate it. This car will not be a DD (I'm in Michigan), but it will see significant miles from April to October each year.

Thanks!

-Jim

Hey Jim welcome. Don’t blame you not dd it at all I don’t have mine touch MI salt slag and beet juice either right now that all seems nonexistent.

As far as once overs fluids and have a go over on suspension components. Even if not abused plenty of aging bushes to have a once over, shocks struts the norm. Go through the many threads about scanners and readers everyone has their preference here depending on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go but a quick check at any soft codes stored that aren’t popping up any warning lights will give you an idea about anything hiding with no records plugs and coils are relatively inexpensive and easy to do.

Fun bits also depends on what your plans are with the car but I’ve never minded the wind to justify a wind deflector. Naturally hope you enjoy it and don’t forget to post up some pics.
Mike

[zoomnad]

I too, am new to the Z4 experience but not to BMW autos (had a 128i). I have had problems with mine and I believe that some of the problems are due to rodents making their winter home in my car before I bought it! Here in SW Ohio, I can have the car as a DD as long as old Man Winter doesn't show up and roads ARE NOT TREATED! Mice eat plastic off wires so beware. I have heard about devices that emit sound that make them run! Check out the picture of the winter home!

[Aloyouis2]

Originally Posted by pungo

Check vert top hydraulic system for corrosion.
Change all fluids, diff, trans, oil, coolant, brake.
Use NCS Expert in place of bimmercode
Use ISTA+ in place of bimmerlink
USB to OBD II dcan cable.

I do need to look into those applications. Does Carly work with E85?

Fluids, got it.

[Aloyouis2]

I noticed that the automatic roof pump squeals pretty good while operating. Everything works it seems. Could it be low on hydraulic fluid? Can this be checked?

[mlquillin]

Yes, Carly works for coding and diagnosing E85. It has a nice interface to boot.

Regarding the rodent issue, splash peppermint oil on the sound insulation. They hate strong smells.

I like the stock feel of my E85 but BlueBus is definitely on my todo list. I’ve done mostly cosmetic things: LED interior lights (and especially for the trunk to get more light in there), a black grill for my black Z4, and new badges.

Enjoy the ride!

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Aloyouis2

Does Carly work with E85?

Carly does work on the E85/E86, though if you don't already have their overpriced propriety OBD interface and an older grandfathered version of the app, expect to pay a fee each year to continue to use it, what a scam, shm...
It's a shame bimmercode/bimmerlink doesn't support the E85/E86

[Efthreeoh]

I'll throw some comments out. Just to preface, I have a 423,000 mile N52 in my 2006 E90 (I'm the original owner) and a 120,000 mile N52 in my 2008 Z4 3.0si Coupe (owned since Dec 2014 @ 23,000 miles).

I too recommend a full change of all the driveline juices and the brake fluid since you know not when it was last flushed.

The N52 likes to develop oil leaks at the lower right rear part of the oil pan (near the bell housing). The N52 also likes to develop oil leaks at the Oil Filter Housing gasket and oil cooler. So, check for oil leaks in those places. If the OFHG leaks bad enough it can get on the serpentine belt and possibly cause it to slip off the pulleys. The serp belt easily goes 100,000 miles, but check for micro cracks on the rib side just to make sure it is still in good shape.

The N52 likes BMW oil and original BMW oil filters (MANN HU-816x). I highly recommend using the OE/OEM oil filter (and BMW LL-01 spec oil). Most aftermarket filters do not fit well. While you have the coolant out, I highly recommend changing the coolant hose flange on the cylinderhead. Google "N52 Mickey Mouse flange", you'll get all the info you need on it. This is just based on age.

Also, the N52 has two VANOS solenoids on the front of the engine. They are identical parts; one used by the intake cam and the other for the exhaust. Us long-time N52 owners like to clean and swap the VANOS solenoids every 50,000 miles. The reasoning is the solenoids use different profiles for the exhaust and intake, so swapping them lets them run the different profiles and not get stuck running the same profiles over lots of miles. The VANOS system also uses drain-back oil flow valves to keep the VANOS system loaded with oil after the engine shuts off. The valves have screens in them that can get clogged if the oil maintenance is not performed to BMW specifications. The valves are in the head, on the left side near the front and come out using a Allen hex wrench. You can Google the procedure online too. It's worth pulling them out just to check. But if your engine is running smooth then the probably are clean.

The oil level system, we call it the e-dipstick, works not like a normal dipstick. Owners of N52's can end up overfilling the oil sump. Take the time to read this:

www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1533444

Also check the operation of the light in the rear console. It's switched by the access door. The access door has a POS plastic stem that pushes the switch closed when the door closes. It can break off and the light is on when the ignition is on. You have to check at night with the engine running and see if any light leaks around the door. The fix is to add a long screw in place of the broken off stem. It's easier to remove the access door and drill a hole on the hinge cover to add the screw (I didn't do it that way though - LOL).

I'd think your car has Bluetooth phone integration (it doesn't play music). BMW does make the retrofit module for it that plugs into the radio and does play music from a phone.

Just a few of my thoughts.

Happy New Year. The E85 is an excellent automobile. One of BMW's gems that most don't know about.

[Our03z4]

You should change cooling tower, it WILL fail. I'm 2 for 2. Age causes the tower to split, super easy and cheap to fix.

Check the oil filter housing gasket, it's another weak spot that is affected by age.

If you don't like the way that auto box shifts the Russians have a nice tuning app you can get. Made a huge difference in shift lag.

These cars are pretty fuss free, most things are easy to fix and not very expensive compared to my other cars. I'm at 107k on my coupe and did 145k on my roadster which never had anything major wrong.

One last thing, if you don't drive the car often (less then every two weeks) it needs to be on a trickle charger.

[Aloyouis2]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'll throw some comments out. Just to preface, I have a 423,000 mile N52 in my 2006 E90 (I'm the original owner) and a 120,000 mile N52 in my 2008 Z4 3.0si Coupe (owned since Dec 2014 @ 23,000 miles).

I too recommend a full change of all the driveline juices and the brake fluid since you know not when it was last flushed.

The N52 likes to develop oil leaks at the lower right rear part of the oil pan (near the bell housing). The N52 also likes to develop oil leaks at the Oil Filter Housing gasket and oil cooler. So, check for oil leaks in those places. If the OFHG leaks bad enough it can get on the serpentine belt and possibly cause it to slip off the pulleys. The serp belt easily goes 100,000 miles, but check for micro cracks on the rib side just to make sure it is still in good shape.

The N52 likes BMW oil and original BMW oil filters (MANN HU-816x). I highly recommend using the OE/OEM oil filter (and BMW LL-01 spec oil). Most aftermarket filters do not fit well. While you have the coolant out, I highly recommend changing the coolant hose flange on the cylinderhead. Google "N52 Mickey Mouse flange", you'll get all the info you need on it. This is just based on age.

Also, the N52 has two VANOS solenoids on the front of the engine. They are identical parts; one used by the intake cam and the other for the exhaust. Us long-time N52 owners like to clean and swap the VANOS solenoids every 50,000 miles. The reasoning is the solenoids use different profiles for the exhaust and intake, so swapping them lets them run the different profiles and not get stuck running the same profiles over lots of miles. The VANOS system also uses drain-back oil flow valves to keep the VANOS system loaded with oil after the engine shuts off. The valves have screens in them that can get clogged if the oil maintenance is not performed to BMW specifications. The valves are in the head, on the left side near the front and come out using a Allen hex wrench. You can Google the procedure online too. It's worth pulling them out just to check. But if your engine is running smooth then the probably are clean.

The oil level system, we call it the e-dipstick, works not like a normal dipstick. Owners of N52's can end up overfilling the oil sump. Take the time to read this:

www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1533444

Also check the operation of the light in the rear console. It's switched by the access door. The access door has a POS plastic stem that pushes the switch closed when the door closes. It can break off and the light is on when the ignition is on. You have to check at night with the engine running and see if any light leaks around the door. The fix is to add a long screw in place of the broken off stem. It's easier to remove the access door and drill a hole on the hinge cover to add the screw (I didn't do it that way though - LOL).

I'd think your car has Bluetooth phone integration (it doesn't play music). BMW does make the retrofit module for it that plugs into the radio and does play music from a phone.

Just a few of my thoughts.

Happy New Year. The E85 is an excellent automobile. One of BMW's gems that most don't know about.

Outstanding! Thank you for taking the time to write that. I have copied and pasted into my E85 notes on my phone.

[Aloyouis2]

Originally Posted by Our03z4

You should change cooling tower, it WILL fail. I'm 2 for 2. Age causes the tower to split, super easy and cheap to fix.

Check the oil filter housing gasket, it's another weak spot that is affected by age.

If you don't like the way that auto box shifts the Russians have a nice tuning app you can get. Made a huge difference in shift lag.

These cars are pretty fuss free, most things are easy to fix and not very expensive compared to my other cars. I'm at 107k on my coupe and did 145k on my roadster which never had anything major wrong.

One last thing, if you don't drive the car often (less then every two weeks) it needs to be on a trickle charger.

Trickle charger is a great idea. It appears that the battery was changed out with a less than stellar AutoZone version. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing if the battery was correctly coded when it was installed. Maybe it's worthwhile buying a new battery and starting from scratch with the proper coding?

[Piper1]

Originally Posted by Aloyouis2

Trickle charger is a great idea. It appears that the battery was changed out with a less than stellar AutoZone version. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing if the battery was correctly coded when it was installed. Maybe it's worthwhile buying a new battery and starting from scratch with the proper coding?

E85/86 are pre battery registry so it’s drop right in no hassle. Look for a “battery maintainer”.

[Aloyouis2]

Mann filters ordered. For oil, any that meets the LL-01 is fine? My understanding (maybe incorrectly) is that the weight range (10w-30 etc) matters not as long as it has the BMW LL-01 rating?

Hmmm... I doubt my ramps are going to work given how low the car is. Did the first one at my buddy's work where they have a lift.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Aloyouis2

Trickle charger is a great idea. It appears that the battery was changed out with a less than stellar AutoZone version. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing if the battery was correctly coded when it was installed. Maybe it's worthwhile buying a new battery and starting from scratch with the proper coding?

Let's just be accurate in case a newb reads this thread. It's not a "trickle charger" but rather a "battery maintainer".

[Piper1]

Originally Posted by Aloyouis2

Hmmm... I doubt my ramps are going to work given how low the car is. Did the first one at my buddy's work where they have a lift.

Prior to my quickjack I would jack the car up and set it down a side at a time on the ramps just not to deal with positioning jack stands so you could still use your ramps that way.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Aloyouis2

Trickle charger is a great idea. It appears that the battery was changed out with a less than stellar AutoZone version. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing if the battery was correctly coded when it was installed. Maybe it's worthwhile buying a new battery and starting from scratch with the proper coding?

Nothing wrong with an autozone battery as long as it's healthy when properly tested.
Just so you know, there is no coding/registering required for the battery on E85/E86

[Aloyouis2]

Originally Posted by Piper1

E85/86 are pre battery registry so it’s drop right in no hassle. Look for a “battery maintainer”.

Perfect! Thank you.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Aloyouis2

Mann filters ordered. For oil, any that meets the LL-01 is fine? My understanding (maybe incorrectly) is that the weight range (10w-30 etc) matters not as long as it has the BMW LL-01 rating?

Hmmm... I doubt my ramps are going to work given how low the car is. Did the first one at my buddy's work where they have a lift.

Not to make another oil thread, but the N52 can use 5W-30 or 5W-40 per BMW's requirements. Really, LL-01 is recommended if you follow BMW's long drain interval schedule (I used to when I drove a lot). But LL-01 spec is no more expensive than non-spec oil, so no reason to not use LL-01. Considering I have over 500,000 miles of experience using BMW oil in my two N52s, I can attest it is good oil for the purpose.

[Aloyouis2]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Let's just be accurate in case a newb reads this thread. It's not a "trickle charger" but rather a "battery maintainer".

The one I have does both, I believe. It has been on the shelf for a while since we solved an electrical issue with the Wrangler.

[Aloyouis2]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Not to make another oil thread, but the N52 can use 5W-30 or 5W-40 per BMW's requirements. Really, LL-01 is recommended if you follow BMW's long drain interval schedule (I used to when I drove a lot). But LL-01 spec is no more expensive than non-spec oil, so no reason to not use LL-01. Considering I have over 500,000 miles of experience using BMW oil in my two N52s, I can attest it is good oil for the purpose.

Yea. I see a few different LL-01 spec oils at Wally World. Simple enough, 30 in winter and 40 in summer.

When you state "BMW oil" are you referring to the LL-01 spec or actual BMW branded oil?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Aloyouis2

Yea. I see a few different LL-01 spec oils at Wally World. Simple enough, 30 in winter and 40 in summer.

When you state "BMW oil" are you referring to the LL-01 spec or actual BMW branded oil?

BMW branded oil. I buy it (and filters) in bulk on the internet from a dealership I've been buying parts from for 25 years. But LL-01 spec oil is the proper spec oil regardless of brand.