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      04-13-2014, 02:42 PM   #1
mbanshchikov
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Hard wired radar detector question

Hey everyone

For those of you who have your detector hard wired using the add a fuse, what ground point did you use?

Thanks!
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      04-13-2014, 09:57 PM   #2
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This would depend on where you were mounting it, if you need some ideas for mounting locations you should post up where you have yours mounted currently or describe it in some detail.

You can splice into wires in the dome light as well as underneath the steering wheel or behind the stereo, not sure where you have yours hooked up currently.
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      04-14-2014, 12:54 AM   #3
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I wired into the dome for both my escort Passport detector and old Uniden Beartracker BC10 scanner.

Grounded too a bolt found up there under the fixture (can't remember exactly where-sorry).

Used purple/white stripe (comes on with key position 1) for the scanner... and green/white (comes on with key position 2) for the detector.
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      04-14-2014, 01:05 AM   #4
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...nstall-for-Z4M
I followed this one and worked
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      04-14-2014, 09:33 PM   #5
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I ran the wire down to the fuse panel and tapped into fuse #49. I connected the ground to the first visible black screw but when I switch the key to the on position (without starting the engine) I get no power to the detector. It's a v1 detector. I saw all the instructions and videos on tapping into the map light but I'm trying to avoid splicing oem wires
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      04-15-2014, 12:30 AM   #6
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Did you check it with a voltmeter?
According to my fuse card, #49 is "Navigation,TV".
According to the WDS, it's "terminal 30" power and should be present at all times.
Is the black screw painted? Maybe you're not getting a good connection.
I try to avoid running current through the chassis of the car.
There should be a ground wire available. Most or all of them are solid brown.
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      04-15-2014, 12:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
I try to avoid running current through the chassis of the car.
There should be a ground wire available. Most or all of them are solid brown.
May I ask why this is not recommended? The chassis is your floating ground and should have the lowest impedance return for your source.
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      04-15-2014, 01:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbanshchikov
I ran the wire down to the fuse panel and tapped into fuse #49. I connected the ground to the first visible black screw but when I switch the key to the on position (without starting the engine) I get no power to the detector. It's a v1 detector. I saw all the instructions and videos on tapping into the map light but I'm trying to avoid splicing oem wires
I used T-taps when doing my detector, scanner.

Simple. Establishes a solid connection without too much alteration, and if I need to remove the wiring, just unplug & go.
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      04-15-2014, 07:30 AM   #9
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There are plenty of unpainted structural screws in the glovebox area, just pick up one of those for your ground.

I had the passenger vent out yesterday, and discovered that there is an opening to pass your cable from the fusebox area into the open space in the dash below the vent really easily. From there you can pass it up into the A pillar, and have it exit into the top windshield trim or to the front of the dash, depending on where you want it.
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      04-15-2014, 11:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
May I ask why this is not recommended? The chassis is your floating ground and should have the lowest impedance return for your source.
That's a good question, unfortunately I don't have a short answer, and I don't want to prattle on. There are entire books on the subject.

In short, it's just good Engineering practice.
It'll probably work fine in this case, or the radar detector may pick up some alternator whine or spark plug pop, but maybe it won't care.
It's not a high current load, so it doesn't need the lowest impedance ground, but it would like a low noise ground (actually "return" is the more proper term than ground).

And I'm a NASA Engineer, with a specialty in high power radio transmitter design, so I get overly anal about my electrical work.
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      04-16-2014, 02:19 PM   #11
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Can something like this be used to add power for a gopro?
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      04-16-2014, 08:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdoublehcubed View Post
There are plenty of unpainted structural screws in the glovebox area, just pick up one of those for your ground.

I had the passenger vent out yesterday, and discovered that there is an opening to pass your cable from the fusebox area into the open space in the dash below the vent really easily. From there you can pass it up into the A pillar, and have it exit into the top windshield trim or to the front of the dash, depending on where you want it.
i ran the wire along the trim into the glovebox and used a black screw light below the fuse panel (I'll take a picture of it tomorrow). I think thats my issue. I'll try to see if I can find these structural screws
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      04-17-2014, 07:22 AM   #13
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When you have that little shield at the back of the glove box flipped down so you can see into the fusebox area, there's at least a couple unpainted screws at visible towards the back of the car.

Painted screw will get you every time.
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      04-21-2014, 08:46 PM   #14
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so i figured out the ground, but it seems that the fuse I chose is on all the time. Can I use spare slot #2? And does anyone know the amps in that slot?
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      04-21-2014, 11:49 PM   #15
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#49 is "Navigation,TV".
According to the WDS, it's "terminal 30" power and should be present at all times.
#2 looks like a good choice. It's "terminal 15" power and is present in key positions 2 (run) and 3 (start).
It's unused, just put in a fuse to suit. 1-2 amps should be plenty.

For reference, here are the 3 power busses, and a fuse card:

terminal 15.pdf

terminal 30.pdf

terminal R.pdf

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Last edited by StickMon; 04-22-2014 at 12:41 AM..
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      04-22-2014, 09:24 AM   #16
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awesome exactly what I needed! thanks for the help
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      04-22-2014, 10:55 AM   #17
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May I ask why you decided to go with this route (instead a simple tap o to the Dome Light source)?
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      04-22-2014, 11:56 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pheonix View Post
May I ask why you decided to go with this route (instead a simple tap o to the Dome Light source)?
Not sure what the OP's reasoning was, but in general, being able to use the official Escort hardwire kit with the remote interface is one reason.
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      04-22-2014, 03:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pheonix View Post
May I ask why you decided to go with this route (instead a simple tap o to the Dome Light source)?
I have the V1 hardwire kit (used on my old 135) and the add-a-fuse so I just decided to go this route instead of splicing into the wires
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      04-22-2014, 03:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbanshchikov View Post
I have the V1 hardwire kit (used on my old 135) and the add-a-fuse so I just decided to go this route instead of splicing into the wires
I see! I took the short cut and use the Quick Splice from Radioshack. Finished the job in less than 20 minutes (including the trip to the local store).
By the way, I have asked this before haven't gotten any respond. Have anyone try V1 Connect Module with Smartphone App?
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      04-22-2014, 07:51 PM   #21
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Not yet. Looks cool though
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