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12-18-2017, 10:13 PM | #1 |
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POS Z4M leaves me stranded again just now
So I came to pump gas at the nearest Exxon. Turned car off, pulled key out, locked the wheel as usually before stepping out except this time it didn't lock. I figured the key position stayed on 1 or 2 so I tried inserting the key but the key now doesn't even go in. I was able to lock the steering wheel by jerking It but still no luck on the key going in the ignition. I'm stranded here and there's no way I can leave my car as there's been robberies in this area before. Had anyone experienced this? Is there a fix or even a quick fix just to get the car home? I swear this car makes me never own a car this old again
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12-18-2017, 11:15 PM | #2 |
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After one hour of messing with the ignition, I was finally able to force the key in and drive the car home. I tried taking it in and out and I have to force it in EVERY single time. I also noticed the wheel does not lock anymore. Is it possible that it's somehow not staying on the "0" position?
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12-19-2017, 09:34 AM | #3 |
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Holy crap that is just weird. I would take this to the nearest reputable dealer and ask them to diagnose (for a mutually agreeable price) the issues you have been having. I totally get your frustration here but a Z4M is quite the gem - you should not give up on it without having first looked at all means of resolving this.
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12-19-2017, 10:27 AM | #4 |
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This happened to me, but not on the MZ4 Coupe. On my E46. A pin in the steering lock cylinder broke off.
Mine was the opposite. The pin broke off while the key was in the ignition, preventing me from being able to remove the key. I was able to start and drive the car, but the key was stuck in the ignition so I can't really leave it (although, it wasn't like anyone was going to be able to steal the car because it was a manual. But I digress). The lock cylinder on the steering wheel will need to be replaced.
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12-19-2017, 10:31 AM | #5 |
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Sounds like possibly a bad ignition switch. The lock cylinder is mostly metal, but the center shaft of the ignition switch is plastic. Haven't experienced this on the E85 (yet) but I've seen on other BMWs where the plastic interface of the ignition switch to the steering column lock gets wallowed out. When that happens the ignition switch doesn't return to the home position. Symptoms are similar to what you've described, and I've also seen not being able to remove the key, and even not being able to shut off the engine. The good news is that it's not a terribly expensive part and it doesn't require a key change when you replace it. Hopefully its this or something equally simple and inexpensive!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/61326901961/
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12-19-2017, 10:58 AM | #6 |
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Thanks for the input guys. I figured the problem is somewhere there, however, I replaced the ignition switch November 2016, maybe I'll need a new one who knows.
There's not many options for BMW here in my area. I refuse to take my car to the dealership as they're the ones that gave my car all these problems. I'm running out of options but the problems I'm still dealing with are: * Key remote locks and unlocks car but it doesn't beep at all when locking and it used to beep once. It does beep twice when unlocking vehicle. * When it's pretty damn cold/hot outside, the airbag symbol shows up on the dash, causing my turn signals inside to either get stuck or not click at all. From what I've noticed in reflections, this problem does not affect the outside lights when turning signals are activated. The airbag light also affects the radio buttons and steering wheel buttons, they lose all function. It sometimes affects how cold the A/C blows. * Driver's window is still an inch down. I've had this window down since maybe August (can't believe I've had that issue this long, just shows how fed up I am). I got the window motor in the garage, just haven't made time to swap it out. I hope that's the issue. Things that have been replaced since November 2016: * brand new key * brand new ignition switch * brand new battery(ies) * sent my GM5 to Scott, he said it's perfectly fine I'm guessing the airbag module could be the culprit or something having to do with the steering wheel, or behind it. I really don't want to sell my car, I don't care if I have to spend a few thousands to get it back to how it was originally. I just need to find someone that's willing to put effort into repairing it. *
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12-19-2017, 12:06 PM | #7 |
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The guys are very likely right in their assessments of the issue. it would be nice though, for your peace of mind, to bring the car to a reputable dealer (not your local one) for confirmation and to see if anything else is going on. You're in Texas I see. Is it practical to bring the car to an alternate dealer in Houston or Dallas?
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12-19-2017, 12:42 PM | #8 | |
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12-19-2017, 01:10 PM | #9 | |
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My headlights and Fogs are also affected ie only DTRL work. Tried a known good GM5 module with zero change. I will be giving the ignition switch a try next. At least BMW put some fail safes in for this occurrence as the indicators taillights and brake lights still function. I will be taking at to a local indy shop in the spring for diagnosis if the ignition switch replacement doesn't work. Wouldn't trade/sell my zed for the world though
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12-19-2017, 03:14 PM | #10 |
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Same thing happened to my e39 m5. I had to get the ignition switch replaced and steering column, and an 03 steering wheel and airbag. It would also not let me lock the doors, my drls didn’t work and ac blower went haywire and a few other gremlins. Once I replaced the column and ignition (along with alternator and battery and final stage resistor) it has worked fine since.
Now that I think of it, I updated the steering wheel at the same time so it may have had something to do with the airbag. Last edited by Boosted 1; 12-19-2017 at 03:21 PM.. |
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12-19-2017, 06:44 PM | #11 | ||||
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12-19-2017, 07:42 PM | #12 |
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This is a bit over simplified but hopefully gets the concept across. Instead of discrete wires going from each of your steering wheel buttons or the other sensors and accessories in the car, they're connected by a single wire serial digital communications buss. Each item has a unique digital address and there's a protocol used for them all to communicate with each other. Assembly wise it saves a crap load of wiring, from a design standpoint it saves weight, and from a reliability stand point it reduces a bunch of connectors that could contribute to failures. The down side is that if there's an issue with one item on the serial data buss, it corrupts or stops the communications between all the items on the buss, so you get a bunch of things that go wonky or just cease to function. The Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) acts as an intermediate data hub (similar to a USB hub for your PC accessories) so if it has a communications issue a lot of stuff is impacted.
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Last edited by dc_wright; 12-19-2017 at 07:52 PM.. |
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12-19-2017, 11:50 PM | #13 |
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That makes perfect sense dc_wright. Now I at least have a clue as to what topic(s) to read about. After a quick search, I found Shipkiller's DIY for the SAS replacement. It's not too pricey and I think I can manage to DIY it. The ignition switch or cylinder lock would totally be a different issue though. I may end up taking it to a different dealer but I'm afraid they'll charge an arm and a leg for this type of work
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01-02-2018, 10:54 AM | #14 |
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So I got a few parts and will be replacing them soon but now my hood isn't staying up when opened. Does anyone know the part numbers to keep the hood up? I'm thinking it's the small shocks that need replacing.
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01-02-2018, 11:22 AM | #15 |
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01-02-2018, 03:48 PM | #16 |
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Great, thanks the HACK!
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01-02-2018, 04:53 PM | #17 |
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01-02-2018, 04:58 PM | #18 | |
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I always use realoem but can't ever seem to find small pieces like the hood shocks
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01-02-2018, 05:12 PM | #19 | |
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Of course, you can always just google. If I'm looking for PN for a part that I have a vague description for, I'd google "turner motorsport [insert parts description]" or "ECS [insert parts description]" and 99% of the time they return the part that I am looking for and the OE part number faster than I can search for on RealOEM. For example, search terms "ECS Z4 Hood Shock" yields: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-par...237016178~feb/ Usually the prices are somewhat reasonable I'd just end up buying it outright there vs. actually more competitive shopping via PN. Then again, there's that stupid trim piece that only came if you buy the WHOLE trunk liner. That took me hours of searching only to realize that you can't buy it separate.
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01-04-2018, 02:09 PM | #20 | |
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01-04-2018, 02:59 PM | #21 | |
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You can also do word searches as The Hack suggested using FCP as the prefix. That will get you options from FCP Euro, also a good parts source. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E8...ounting_parts/ https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?key...hood%20support
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01-04-2018, 03:44 PM | #22 |
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Amazing. You can spend 20 each if you want or 60. For a hood strut I could care less if its OEM or not as long as it works like the OEM unit. The price range on FCP is for the same part, from the same manufacturer(Stabilus) just OEM vs non OEM.
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