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01-31-2011, 05:58 AM | #23 |
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one love.... those wheels are baller spec, love them!!!
one thing, what size are your studs? im assuming 75mm but is it an illusion or are they actually protruding out the lug whole? the pics makes it look like the studs sit proud in relation to the im face. Looks very motorsport....... byron
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01-31-2011, 08:08 AM | #24 | |
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01-31-2011, 01:47 PM | #25 |
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The "87 ft-lbs" should be applied to the nut, not the stud for obvious reasons.
On a lug bolt, the thread engages the hub and the bolt itself is elastic, and the 87 ft-lbs provides clamping force to keep the wheel on the rotor hub surface because the bolt's elasticity. Most of that force is spread out onto the conical mating surface of the lug bolt and wheel. On a stud conversion, there should only be enough force applied onto the studs into the hub to prevent it from backing out when the wheel is taken off. Hence typical stud conversion requires Loctite. None loctite applications should have the studs torqued to approximately 60 ft-lbs, or the force equivalent to a stud tightened to 20 ft-lbs plus loctite to prevent the stud from backing out when the lug nut is released. The same "stretch" principle apply regarding studs, the material of the stud actually "stretches" to provide the clamping force, there's actually little torque load placed on the hub itself. It's the conical surfaces of the lug nuts and the wheel interface that bears the brunt of the 87 ft-lbs of torque. That is also why lug bots and studs should be replaced after X numbers of use, because the constant stretching and releasing will eventually fatigue the material. Typically I go with a fresh set of fasteners every 2 years on cars I track regularly, or every 5 years for cars I don't (basically every time the bearing is changed). Personally, I'd prefer the "pressed on" type studs but I have no scientific evidence that it's better than the bolt-to-nut type conversion.
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02-03-2011, 09:20 AM | #26 |
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pics, these came in!!
these came in today....... the studs are proper quality items and are made by ARP, my rims will break well before these studs, the kics r26 nut is a work of art.... i actually dont want to put them on my car, they would look great in my display cabinet, they are soooooo light, they are composite and are ridiculously strong and light, i wish i had scales so i could weight the two but the WHOLE set of these nuts weight in @ less than 2lbs, crazy... so its always nice to drop some unspring mass. heres some pics!! note the four locking composite nuts as well, cant wait for the weather to pick up so i can get out their and install these, while im their i will be detailing the liners ect, behind all wheels.
click for full resoultion images
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03-22-2015, 05:41 PM | #27 |
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Muteki SR48 Open Ended Lug Nuts: Theft?
Follow-up question to anyone running Muteki's, do you also use a locking nut for additional theft security? If so, which one? Am currently running Vok racing wheels, TMS studs + Muteki's, but feeling unsure if the Muteki's provide enough theft deterrent..
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03-22-2015, 05:56 PM | #28 |
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strictly personal opinion...
If a thief wants your wheels no lock is going the stop them.
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03-23-2015, 07:29 AM | #29 | |
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pretty much this..... its just to slow them down luckily for biggest security is the fact my car is garaged and see's weekend show / track use in summer. On an update on these items, the studs are probably due replacement soon and have really stood up to the abuse I've put the through, the Kics lug nuts have been nothing short of awesome, still to this day look brand new and have been Tq up so many times i can't accurately compute it, they look great and offer me some great piece of mind when tracking the car. Keep on eye on your stud Tq however, i noticed one side of my car they were all loose, so everytime i take the wheels off now ill Re-Tq them. Still a very very good mod if your a track rat or DIY king/ detail freak. These have also saved the paint on my AP BBK.
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03-23-2015, 08:27 AM | #30 |
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Do you use locktite on the studs?
Mine have never come loose, in fact they are a PITA to remove when replacing. I need to double nut them & use an impact.
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03-23-2015, 09:11 AM | #31 |
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yes !! was surprised myself and used a generous amount too! i guess track work + heat will crack the locktite
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11-24-2015, 10:33 AM | #32 |
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Lug Bolts?? That's messed up!! I just took off a front wheel of my 2006 Z4M for the first time. I had never even heard of a Lug bolt. I would be interested in knowing the rational for a Lug bolt.
Anyway, I got the wheel back on and started looking for options and found the stud conversion. I won't be tracking mine but I would think it would be a real PITA for trackers replacing rotors, have to remove the studs for each rotor replacement. How do you remove the bullet nose stud? is it a hex on the base or what? |
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11-24-2015, 11:07 AM | #33 |
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Which Loctite should I be using to install wheel studs? I went to Home Depot and there are like 10 different kinds! I'm assuming it's not the Blue which is what I use on small craft/hobby applications.
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11-24-2015, 11:16 AM | #34 | |
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Some stud kits ship c/w loctite
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11-24-2015, 11:16 AM | #35 | |
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http://www.bavauto.com/lview.asp?img...ib500/12mm.jpg |
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11-24-2015, 11:19 AM | #36 | |
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The rotor slides off over the studs. IMO this is why studs with shoulders near the bottom should be avoided, as there is sometimes interference issues removing and installing.
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11-24-2015, 06:38 PM | #37 | |
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