ZPOST
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read


Go Back   ZPOST > BMW Z4 Technical Talk > Engine, Exhaust, Drivetrain Modifications
  TireRack

SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS!
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      10-22-2015, 10:32 AM   #1
inTgr8r
Lieutenant General
inTgr8r's Avatar
Canada
2422
Rep
11,665
Posts

Drives: M2 Comp
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Toronto

iTrader: (10)

DKF 300 cell CATs working + install tips

I posted this info elsewhere but thought it would be easier to access in its own thread.


1. I have been running a 300 cell CAT without CEL for some time now, I didn't post previously because these are a prototype CAT
& not the 300 cell from the GB run.
None the less it demonstrates that 300 cell count is enough to clear codes without an O2 tune.

2. I installed the GB 300 cell CATs on Caddy's car last week, he was running resonators up until now.
After the install, I didn’t clear codes, if CATs are working the car should clear the CEL itself.
I just had a call from Caddy; after 155 miles the CEL has cleared, so the GB 300 cell CATs are definitely working.
Caddy's car has no tune.



Some Install Tips & Notes
As most of you can imagine, working with DKF test fitting, I have had the exhaust system on & off my car more times than I care to count.
Needless to say I developed a system.
I find that taking the entire system off the car in one piece is by far the best way to do it & ensure that there are no leaks.
One thing that I found on my and Caddy's system is that if you don't get the racing flanges right, there will be minor leaking, that you cannot feel by hand after the install.
Minor carbon tracking (leak) was observed at the racing flange on my & Caddy’s car when taking the system apart.
NO leaks are critical to having the system work properly!

Taking the system off the car;

• First step is dismantling all those pieces just to get to the exhaust (the part I hate the most)

• Use some small ropes at the muffler to X-pipe connectors to hold it up while you drop all the hangars sliding the header connection apart.
I find it easier to drop the muffler hangars from the car and keep them on the mufflers.

• if you have a helper, you don't need to remove the mufflers, just drop the hangars, undo the header flanges & slide the whole system out.
if on your own drop the mufflers first to make it easier to handle.

• once on the shop floor; dismantle section 1 & 2


Assemble the DKF system on the shop floor;
• !!! check the 3 bolt flange on the 300 cell CAT!!!
I noticed that the welds for the 3 bolt flange protruded slightly above the flange face.
It's minor but would likely lead to leaks if not corrected.
Its a simple fix with a flat file to take the weld down flush.

• stand the CATs vertically on a flat surface, on the 3bolt flange.
stand them together and check across the racing flanges to see if they are flat & true.
They may not be dead level but that's OK, just mark the high & low side for now.

• mate the CAT up to the S-pipe one at a time holding it in roughly the correct orientation (O2 bung tipped to the center).
Check each of them on both sides of the S-pipe, you might find that the fit is better on one side vs the other.
Then mark them right and left.

• assembly on the shop floor; you will be using the shop floor to set things up square.
section 2 x-pipe should be flat on the floor, face up just as it sits in the car.

• place a 2x4 (or similar) on the floor under both legs of the x-pipe near the muffler joint.
this elevates the system so that the back of X pipe is level with respect to the floor.

• next assemble the CATs 3 bolt flange (that you marked previously) to the X-pipe.
It's important to do the 3 bolt flange before the racing flange in order to get a good seal at the 3 bolt connection.
If you do the racing flange first, then the thick 3 bolt flange has to be drawn together (forced) by the bolts..
New gaskets are a good idea.
Snug the bolts up firm so that they stay in place. (not to quite final tightness)

• shim up under the CATs a bit so that you can slide the S-pipe up to the racing flange connection.
make sure the S-pipe bend is oriented the same as on the car.
You may find that the flanges don’t mate up perfectly.
The CATs will either be spaced too far apart or too close together.
If too close; simply drive a wedge in between to force them apart, they aren't hard to move.
If too far apart you need to squeeze them together. (big clamp etc)

• once you get the flanges to sit together, check around for gaps.
On most, I found they were pretty good; on my prototype set I had to shape the flange a bit to get it more flush.
All I did was tap the low spot(s) with a hammer moving around the rim until it was pretty good.

• after the dry fit of the racing flange you can proceed with final assembly.
I used a light coating of Hi-Temp silicone gasket maker on the racing flange face to ensure a good seal. (clean with alcohol 1st)

• when bolting up the racing flanges, check the front end of the S-pipe (header end),
both pipe ends should be sitting level on the floor.
[this ensures that back & front are on the same horizontal plane]

• Install the racing clamps with bolt ends to the floor on a slight angle (so they don't hang below pipe when on the car)

• with everything assembled on the floor, final tighten all connections.
For the racing flanges,
give them a good rap with a hammer in a few places to help seat them down.

• When assembling on the car, use a couple of small ropes again to hold the back of the X-pipe up while I slide the header connection together.
Bolt up the header flanges loosely, then tighten up the ropes at the back to get the system somewhat in place so that you can bolt up the system hangars.

• With the system in its final place, go back & tighten the header flanges.
If you kept your system all in one piece, you may be lucky and still have the muffler tips in the same place.
If not loosen the flange and adjust.



While this method sounds a little tedious, I assure you it is the best way to ensure no leaks at the flanges.
I also find it much easier working in the open on the shop floor rather than working over my head under the car. …….especially getting up to that 3 bolt flange.



.
__________________
'21 M2C Hockenheim Silver
'18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold)
'13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold)
'07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold)
Appreciate 2
      10-29-2015, 06:10 PM   #2
crfine88
Colonel
crfine88's Avatar
437
Rep
2,747
Posts

Drives: E86M
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cave Creek AZ.

iTrader: (19)

Great info Ian,
Thanks for sharing all the detail. Really saving a lot of trial and error for members who want to do this!

I may be a little behind the curve, but this is new/big news to me. So euro headers plus DKF 300 cell and a stock tune will work without cell provided installation is good?
__________________
Appreciate 0
      10-29-2015, 06:16 PM   #3
inTgr8r
Lieutenant General
inTgr8r's Avatar
Canada
2422
Rep
11,665
Posts

Drives: M2 Comp
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Toronto

iTrader: (10)

It's a small sample size, but that's what we able to achieve.
What is not determined is whether it would pass a sniffer test where required.
Up here we just need to have the readiness and no error codes.
__________________
'21 M2C Hockenheim Silver
'18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold)
'13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold)
'07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold)
Appreciate 0
      10-29-2015, 06:25 PM   #4
crfine88
Colonel
crfine88's Avatar
437
Rep
2,747
Posts

Drives: E86M
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cave Creek AZ.

iTrader: (19)

I believe it is the same here in AZ. I am going to look into things
locally. Sounds like this could be a good alternative to modifying the US OEM, or trying to find the euro piece.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      10-30-2015, 08:45 AM   #5
David70
Colonel
United_States
1567
Rep
2,665
Posts

Drives: 06 Z4M Coupe - 13 Cadillac ATS
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH

iTrader: (1)

Good information, thanks. I thought some of the initial (2nd try) DKF 300 cell cats had CEL's? If true, I am not sure what to take away from your test compared to what they found.

If the 300 DKF and your prototype both work, does your prototype version have benefits above the DKF 300?
__________________
2006 Z4M Coupe - Stromung exhaust, ZHP knob, stubby antenna, clutch delay delete
Appreciate 0
      10-30-2015, 11:47 AM   #6
inTgr8r
Lieutenant General
inTgr8r's Avatar
Canada
2422
Rep
11,665
Posts

Drives: M2 Comp
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Toronto

iTrader: (10)

The prototype was made by a 3rd party as a QC check against the GB 300 cell CATs.
It was made to the same spec.

Yes, some guys were getting CELs on the 300 cell CATs.
There was also another that had his work for a period and then trip, and then clear again, etc.

With the limited amount of feedback, installation variables, O2 sensor condition and the CEL fussiness of these cars, it's hard to draw any firm conclusions other than 300 cell CATs can work.
__________________
'21 M2C Hockenheim Silver
'18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold)
'13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold)
'07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold)
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:22 AM.




zpost
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST