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04-12-2011, 10:10 AM | #1 |
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brake bleeding question
My current fluid is about a year old (~4000 miles with 3 total hours of track time and 4 autocrosses). Should I flush it before my next driving school? More concerned about safety than performance.
When flushing brake fluid with the Motive pressure bleeder, is it critical to have the car level on jackstands or can you lift each corner at a time and remove the wheel? |
04-12-2011, 10:20 AM | #2 |
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What fluid?
Racing fluids are more hygroscopic than the OE fluid. I use Motul 600 & I flush mine at the start of each season (now) You can do a corner at a time if you don't want to bother with stands.
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04-12-2011, 10:49 AM | #3 |
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Stock BMW fluid since it was flushed last year under warranty.
Brakes still feel great but I don't want to compromise safety on the track. Not a super aggressive driver yet since this will only be my 2nd time on the track. I was thinking of switching to ATE Super Blue due to it being easier to distinguish from the OEM fluid and it being much less expensive. |
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04-12-2011, 11:13 AM | #4 |
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JMO, but I'm not a huge fan of the ATE blue, I prefer a higher boiling point.
The trade off with higher boiling points though, are more frequent changes. After you've done fluids a couple of times, it's pretty easy to see the fresh fluid coming through the line w/o the aid of the blue dye.
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04-12-2011, 03:05 PM | #5 |
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I think ATE blue and the OEM stuff are the same, just different color. You should change the fluid. It's very easy with the pressure bleeder. You don't even need to jack up or remove the rear wheels if you don't want---it's possible.
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04-12-2011, 04:35 PM | #7 |
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04-14-2011, 06:28 AM | #8 |
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Good deal. Just ordered a motive pressure bleeder and 2 liters of fluid.
Quick question: If using a pressure bleeder, do I still need to have a helper pump the pedal while I whack the caliper with a rubber mallet? (steps 8 & 9 in madrussian's DIY: http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_brake_bleed.shtml) Another quick question: Do I need to bleed the clutch as well? |
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