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      10-28-2014, 09:21 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chickdr View Post
The window reset procedure is easy. I would get the battery checked. If it is 4yrs or older it is probably time for a new one.

The Official Reset Proceedure
Courtesy of a BMW tech on another forum, ...with thanks.


Yeah, I've seen that procedure, but I thought it was just to reset the travel and the door activated motion? In fact, I've done that procedure. I *think* that it reset the one-click down, which works. But it still doesn't do the one-click up.
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      10-28-2014, 12:15 PM   #46
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It should fix the window in both directions. I would repeat it.
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      12-15-2014, 10:30 AM   #47
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Well, six weeks later...

The passenger side window is one-touch in both directions. The driver's side is just one-touch down.

And, the left fog light has been out since I bought it. Picked up a replacement a few weeks ago, but just haven't gotten around to replacing it. Yesterday I turned the wheel, twisted the screws and stuck my hand in there. Turns out that it was just unplugged. :weird:
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      06-17-2015, 10:24 AM   #48
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Going back under for another oil change. Since the last time around (when I first posted), I bought the oil filter cap wrench/adapter, which should help.

I'm seriously considering a Mityvac to avoid going under the car again. I didn't like my jackstand placements last time. The Jeep rolled off TWO jacks simultaneously once and landed on a brake rotor. Thankfully I wasn't underneath at the time, but I'm always nervous about less-than-bombproof placements when it comes to jackstands. Comments/opinions on the Mityvac are encouraged.

Also, I'm looking all over and finding all kinds of opinions on which brand of oil and filter to use. Last time, I used Castrol Syntec 0/40 and (I think) Mann filter. Should I be using OEM instead? Or maybe Redline?
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      06-17-2015, 11:09 AM   #49
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Do you put anything around the tires to stop them from rolling when you have the car lifted? I got a set of cheap wheel choks from walmart then bought a rubber anti-slip dish washing mat that I cut up and put under those for extra grip. Should help with your fear of the car rolling off the jackstands.
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      06-17-2015, 12:14 PM   #50
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Yeah, I usually chock with a couple of bricks. I don't remember exactly what happened with the Jeep that time. I have some huge HD jackstands that I use for the Jeep, but I'm not sure I can get the Z that far off the ground. Regardless, if I can avoid going under, I'm gonna.
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      06-17-2015, 03:43 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoxes View Post
Going back under for another oil change. Since the last time around (when I first posted), I bought the oil filter cap wrench/adapter, which should help.

I'm seriously considering a Mityvac to avoid going under the car again. I didn't like my jackstand placements last time. The Jeep rolled off TWO jacks simultaneously once and landed on a brake rotor. Thankfully I wasn't underneath at the time, but I'm always nervous about less-than-bombproof placements when it comes to jackstands. Comments/opinions on the Mityvac are encouraged.

Also, I'm looking all over and finding all kinds of opinions on which brand of oil and filter to use. Last time, I used Castrol Syntec 0/40 and (I think) Mann filter. Should I be using OEM instead? Or maybe Redline?
What engine do you have? Can you even use a Mityvac? No dipstick = no Mityvac. I've been using the Mityvac on both my Z4 and X5 since their "free maintenance" expired - love the "no mess" oil changes.

Any name brand full synthetic oil should be fine. I wouldn't stress too much over any particular brand as long as it's the correct viscosity. For my M54 X5, I buy whatever that is on sale and easy to get. This usually means it's Mobil1 5w30 or 0w40 (preferred) from Walmart I've tried Redline once on the Z4, oil analysis showed no difference (wear-wise) compared to the OE Castrol TWS. So, I'm going back to Castrol TWS as that's easier to get since O'reilly started carrying it.

Last edited by XMetal; 06-17-2015 at 03:50 PM..
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      06-17-2015, 04:17 PM   #52
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I have the N52 (E86). I found another thread while looking for info on ramps. The poster was quite confident stating that the drawtube would go down to the oil pan from the filter housing. If I'm wrong about this, let me know - I've already ordered it!
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      06-17-2015, 06:01 PM   #53
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Rather than spend the money on a mityvac just buy a low-saddle long-reach floor jack and 4 ESCO jackstands. The E86 has very useable jack pads and center lifting points for the front and rear. Lift the car on all 4 stands and you're safe enough to deliver a baby under it. It can't roll when all 4 wheels are off the ground...

I doubt the mityvac will work since the center drain tube in the oil filter housing takes an almost 90-deg turn and has a back-flow valve in the path.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      06-17-2015, 09:31 PM   #54
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Well the Mityvac is a lot cheaper than 4 (more) jack stands AND another jack, but point well taken. If the Mity won't work, it won't work...
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      06-18-2015, 06:11 AM   #55
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The N52 doesn't have a dipstick, the mityvac is not going to work. I've had the OFH off twice, the oil passages in it just go into the cylinder head; none lead directly to the oil pan (like a dipstick tube does). Get the proper equipment to safely lift the car. Not a hard concept.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      07-10-2015, 10:40 AM   #56
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I did it from underneath again, and I sure as hell don't like it. First, I'm missing both front and rear jack pads on the passenger side. So I had the driver's side on a stand, but mangled the rear jack point on the passenger side without the pad in place. Then I tried to fashion an adapter and went for the front center point. That point looked to be giving way, like poor sheet metal. So I ended up chivying under with only one jack stand on the DS front. Never again.

I ordered new pads - they're here, and I don't know how they install, but I haven't looked closely. After the first glance, it looks like a rubber/plastic rivet fitting. I don't know if the center point is supposed to have one as well.
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      07-14-2015, 05:17 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoxes View Post
I did it from underneath again, and I sure as hell don't like it. First, I'm missing both front and rear jack pads on the passenger side. So I had the driver's side on a stand, but mangled the rear jack point on the passenger side without the pad in place. Then I tried to fashion an adapter and went for the front center point. That point looked to be giving way, like poor sheet metal. So I ended up chivying under with only one jack stand on the DS front. Never again.

I ordered new pads - they're here, and I don't know how they install, but I haven't looked closely. After the first glance, it looks like a rubber/plastic rivet fitting. I don't know if the center point is supposed to have one as well.
They just snap in then you push the center pin up until it is flush.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      07-24-2015, 10:42 PM   #58
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With the pads in place at the jack points, you need to keep from crushing them with your floor jack. I started with 4 1-1/2 pieces of hardwood 1X2s, which go into the rubber "cup" so the jack lifts them rather than crushing the cup. Then I got fancy with some phenolic adapters I found on EBay. There are some absolutely beautiful aluminum ones out there, but pricey.
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      07-25-2015, 07:16 AM   #59
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Why would you 'crush' the jack pads using a floor jack? If your floor jack has a flat lifting plate, you will not damage the jackpad.

Never had an issue in over eight years....
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      08-12-2015, 03:36 PM   #60
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My jack didn't have a flat lifting plate. It does now, after I modded it with an insert.

Just picked up the clutch stop after running across that thread. That's a LOT of excitement over a $10 part!

So, in other news, I'm thinking about new shocks/struts, but good lord they're expensive (Bilstein HD).

And I've noticed a bit of a clunk when I brake after I've been driving it around in traffic. Sounds like a caliper or a piston getting hung up.

And, I don't often drive it this way, but I've also heard a clunk from the right rear when I take an aggressive long right turn (35 to 40mph) when it really unloads that corner. It *could* be something in the trunk, but I'm just not sure.

Last edited by Knoxes; 08-12-2015 at 03:46 PM..
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      08-12-2015, 04:25 PM   #61
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I got my Bilsteins from Bav Auto on sale.
They occasionally have sales that'll save you about $100.
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      08-12-2015, 05:30 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoxes View Post
Just picked up the clutch stop after running across that thread. That's a LOT of excitement over a $10 part!
...
And, I don't often drive it this way, but I've also heard a clunk from the right rear when I take an aggressive long right turn (35 to 40mph) when it really unloads that corner. It *could* be something in the trunk, but I'm just not sure.
Clutch stop, you won't regret it!

For the clunk, I had this when also changing elevations (backing out of a driveway or something as well as aggressive turns). It was a ball bearing or something that was not seated properly. I will have to find my thread where I posted about it and the fix for it. I have the "same car" so it could be a similar issue.

Welcome to the family (better late than never to welcome someone!)
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      08-13-2015, 06:07 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoxes View Post
My jack didn't have a flat lifting plate. It does now, after I modded it with an insert.

Just picked up the clutch stop after running across that thread. That's a LOT of excitement over a $10 part!

So, in other news, I'm thinking about new shocks/struts, but good lord they're expensive (Bilstein HD).

And I've noticed a bit of a clunk when I brake after I've been driving it around in traffic. Sounds like a caliper or a piston getting hung up.

And, I don't often drive it this way, but I've also heard a clunk from the right rear when I take an aggressive long right turn (35 to 40mph) when it really unloads that corner. It *could* be something in the trunk, but I'm just not sure.
Are you sure the clunk is not something moving around in the trunk, battery box, or the storage compartment?
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      08-13-2015, 08:52 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Are you sure the clunk is not something moving around in the trunk, battery box, or the storage compartment?
The cornering clunk - no, I'm not sure. But the only thing back there that isn't stock is the tire repair kit. It's not a BMW battery, and didn't fit perfectly under the clamp, so I guess it could be shifting a bit.

The brake clunk is definitely a brake clunk - stuck caliper or piston probably. I ran across the brass bushing kit on BavAuto and wondered if that was a simple, cheap upgrade that I should do that might resolve this.

And on the Bilsteins - I guess it's just the fronts that are expensive - I didn't look closely enough. And to be fair, I'm comparing them to the BHD's that I put on the Jeep, which were about $250 for the set. But they're all shocks in that case. The rears for the BMW are much more reasonably priced.
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      08-13-2015, 12:00 PM   #65
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If you decide the cornering noise is not from the battery or anything you can check out what I posted in here. I think it was as simple as jacking up and then loading/unloading the trailing arm (although BMW fixed under warranty so I can't say 100% for sure)

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330864
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      08-13-2015, 12:57 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoxes View Post
The cornering clunk - no, I'm not sure. But the only thing back there that isn't stock is the tire repair kit. It's not a BMW battery, and didn't fit perfectly under the clamp, so I guess it could be shifting a bit.

The brake clunk is definitely a brake clunk - stuck caliper or piston probably. I ran across the brass bushing kit on BavAuto and wondered if that was a simple, cheap upgrade that I should do that might resolve this.

And on the Bilsteins - I guess it's just the fronts that are expensive - I didn't look closely enough. And to be fair, I'm comparing them to the BHD's that I put on the Jeep, which were about $250 for the set. But they're all shocks in that case. The rears for the BMW are much more reasonably priced.
Struts are expensive parts because they form the upper control arm of the suspension, so they are load bearing and are precision manufactured parts. Because BMW owns the design, any manufacturer of the part is charged for use of BMW's intellectual property to manufacture the part. The rear shocks are far less complicated in design and manufacture.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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