Shock Mount recommendation

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

Am I the only one that had no problem removing the trunk trim to fit new rear shock mounts wasn't a big deal?
Pretty straight foreward, I always use the TIS procedure.

But then again: can & can't do is something that sits between the ears.....

Also removing the rear shocks is something you only do if you replace them. There is no reason to remove them to get another job done. So the benefits of the RSM's is a bit exaggerated. Mounts and shocks typically last 60k or longer, so with most of us driving way under 10k/year that's 6+ years...
There are not many here that have had ownership over the same Z for that many miles.
So unless you use your car as a track car, and upgrade your shocks once a year or so it's not a real 'benefit'.
But also isn't any downside (maybe price if you live outside the US and pay ridiculous shipping), so if you plan to replace them anyways...

Powerflex now has poly ones. They should last a lifetime as polyurethane doesn't age like normal rubber and it has some additional dampening properties, so you can consider that as a performance upgrade. No dismanteling from within the wheelarch though.

If you install the standard Koni sport shocks (Yellows) you have to remove them to change the damping adjustment. Once you've got them dialed in they probably wouldn't come off again for a while but during that process you might have them off 4-5 times. It's definitely worth using the Rogue mounts just for this alone.

Originally Posted by fdagen

Now I am wishing I would have bought the modified version of the shock mount. Sounds like it would have saved me a huge headache. I guess I could modify the ones I have.

Sorry, but it wouldn't have saved you a thing on this install. You still have to take the whole top storage compartment out to remove the OEM mounts.......

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by dc_wright

If you install the standard Koni sport shocks (Yellows) you have to remove them to change the damping adjustment.

I think most of us that have top dampening control drill a small hole in the coweling/trim above and go in there with a small allen key.
Almost every adjustable shock uses this system.
So with the top closed you can reach that behind the protection bars and stick a small allen key in there and dial away
But I think koni has some kind of rectangular tap sitting on top of the shock? (so no allen key).
I think making an extended key (with the rectangular slot) and going in from the top would be easier than removing the shock over&over every time you go to the track....
I've seen people making different special keys for the koni's on other cars where acces was bad (sometimes only from the side etc), so that happens
or you can buy them

For the new KW V3 (clubsport etc) they have a dial on the underside, so you have to jack up the rear slightly to get your hand in the wheelwell to dial in a different rebound.
For the roadster maybe an improvement but probably not for the coupe as access is obviously easier.

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

I think most of us that have top dampening control drill a small hole in the coweling/trim above and go in there with a small allen key.
Almost every adjustable shock uses this system.
So with the top closed you can reach that behind the protection bars and stick a small allen key in there and dial away
But I think koni has some kind of rectangular tap sitting on top of the shock? (so no allen key).
I think making an extended key (with the rectangular slot) and going in from the top would be easier than removing the shock over&over every time you go to the track....
I've seen people making different special keys for the koni's on other cars where acces was bad (sometimes only from the side etc), so that happens
or you can buy them

For the new KW V3 (clubsport etc) they have a dial on the underside, so you have to jack up the rear slightly to get your hand in the wheelwell to dial in a different rebound.
For the roadster maybe an improvement but probably not for the coupe as access is obviously easier.

The Koni Sport struts have a top adjustment, but the standard sport shocks don't. TC Kline sells a modified version of the Koni Sport shocks with a top adjust, but it adds about $150 to the cost per shock. For an additional $300 per they'll install a side adjuster that's accessed near the bottom mount. For other brands that have a top adjust, you can drill the hole, but you can only get to it with the top up on the Roadster. With the top down it's too far rearward and completely covered by folded down top.

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by dc_wright

For other brands that have a top adjust, you can drill the hole, but you can only get to it with the top up on the Roadster. With the top down it's too far rearward and completely covered by folded down top.

Yes but you'd have to admit that it's easier to put the top up (by pressing 1 button) than removing the wheel, and dismanteling the shock from within
And also for the yellow koni adjustables you can get extensions (see my previous post) so that you can adjust the shock from above instead of removing the wheel and shock.

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

Yes but you'd have to admit that it's easier to put the top up (by pressing 1 button) than removing the wheel, and dismanteling the shock from within
And also for the yellow koni adjustables you can get extensions (see my previous post) so that you can adjust the shock from above instead of removing the wheel and shock.

You're ignoring the fact that only the Koni sport SHOCKS (not the STRUTS as the STRUTs do come with the top adjuster) purchased from TC Kline have a top adjuster because TC Kline modifies the shock. For the Koni sport shock purchased from anyone else the shock must be fully compressed and the body rotated to change the damping. Here is a demo from KONI that shows what has to be done. The only way you can do this on the car is if you don't install the bump stop on the shock shaft, because with the bump stop in place you can't compress far enough to engage the adjuster. If you leave the bump stop off you risk damaging the adjuster mechanism if you bottom out the shock. Bottoming isn't too much risk on standard springs, but if you've installed lowering springs it become high risk.

[GuidoK]

aha I see so the rear is different to the front. What an utter stupid system. That hàs to be dutch....
For (for example)the honda s2000 they have the regular adjustment at the rear (so with the knob).... seems to be car dependent.

But wouldn't it be easier to just remove the lower bolt and compress it from below?
Then it's just the one bolt that is easlily accesible with an impact gun (or spanner/ratchet) once you have the wheel off.
You might even be able to do that without getting the wheels off, getting under the car (jack the car up at the central reaction bar point, place 2 axle stands at the normal back jack pads)

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

aha I see so the rear is different to the front. What an utter stupid system. That hàs to be dutch....
For (for example)the honda s2000 they have the regular adjustment at the rear (so with the knob).... seems to be car dependent.

But wouldn't it be easier to just remove the lower bolt and compress it from below?
Then it's just the one bolt that is easlily accesible with an impact gun (or spanner/ratchet) once you have the wheel off.
You might even be able to do that without getting the wheels off, getting under the car (jack the car up at the central reaction bar point, place 2 axle stands at the normal back jack pads)

You can only do this if you leave out the bump stop piece, and if you do that you risk bottoming out the shock and damaging the internal adjuster mechanism. If you use the bump stop, then you remove the shock remove the upper shock mount and the bump stop, then you can collapse the shock fully to adjust it.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Gotta agree with this, a metal clip fell down on the driver side when I pulled of a section of the trim. It vibrates sometimes.

Magnets work great for fishing blind holes.

[tlav17]

I had Rogue RSMs in my M3 and I'll be getting them for the Z. Should I be replacing anything up front, or just re-using all stock pieces?

[StickMon]

I replaced everything except the springs.
Probably depends on your environment.
The average humidity here is <10% with high Ozone.
I don't trust anything made of rubber that's more than 5 years old.

[tlav17]

I'm installing H&R coilovers. Did anyone just re-use the stock mounts? I don't see myself removing the shocks for a long time, if ever.

Also, did you guys re-use all bolts, nuts, etc.? Or buy new ones?

[GomboRombo]

I used these instructions to dissemble the trunk to get to the RSM. Took me about 45 min, taking my time. http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewto...p?f=24&t=51205

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by tlav17

I'm installing H&R coilovers. Did anyone just re-use the stock mounts? I don't see myself removing the shocks for a long time, if ever.

Also, did you guys re-use all bolts, nuts, etc.? Or buy new ones?

If you're installing true coil overs then you really need to consider the Rogue mounts. The rear coil springs are the load bearing component currently and when you switch to a coil over you remove the spring and the new coil/shock (the coil over) now becomes the load bearing component and the shock mount area of the body is now bearing the car's weight and the associated forces. In addition to allowing you to remove the rear shocks without having to disassemble the top storage compartment, the Rogue mounts provide reinforcement to the shock mount area of the car body. If you're installing a "coil over" kit where the front struts get replaced with coil overs and the rear springs get replaced with a different spring and a height adjuster, then you can probably get away with the stock mounts.

[StickMon]

Originally Posted by tlav17

I'm installing H&R coilovers. Did anyone just re-use the stock mounts? I don't see myself removing the shocks for a long time, if ever.

Also, did you guys re-use all bolts, nuts, etc.? Or buy new ones?

I replaced everything. Cost is small(ish) compared to the cost of the shocks.
I don't trust anything made of rubber/neoprene/etc that's more than 5 years old, and you don't want to reuse nylock nuts.