St. Mary's City: Birthplace of a State (and Fall Colors)

[Rick F.]

Okay, fair notice: I've changed the title of this post to "The Ghost in the Chapel" in a desperate effort to get your attention. (Apparently "Birthplace of a State" wasn't interesting enough...) And there was a ghost--or something similar--in the chapel. Read on!

Every 2 weeks, like clockwork, I seem to find myself spending a day on the road, exploring an interesting new place in the faithful Z4 3.0i. Most recently, I decided to visit St. Mary's City, Maryland and its surroundings. I made this decision based on a description of the recreated town in One-Day Trips through History, which lists over 200 "excursions within 150 miles of Washington, D.C." It also listed the nearby St. Clements Island Potomac Museum and recommended it highly.


Getting there is half the fun, of course. And it's necessary to stop at each and every scenic, historic, interesting, or just chaotic place along the way. This lake appeared alongside Highway 5, south of Washington, and just cried out to be photographed.



St. Mary's City was the original capital of Maryland. It was settled in 1634, making it one of the oldest settlements in the country. It thrived until 1694, when the capital was moved to Annapolis. By the time of the American Revolution, the city had disappeared entirely. Its foundations, roads, graves, and artifacts lay hiding underneath farm fields and wilderness until archeologists began to rediscover the settlement in 1971.

My host for the tour was Leonard Calvert, son of the second Lord Baltimore. He pioneered the expedition to Maryland, with the settlers sailing aboard The Ark and The Dove—tiny ships by modern standards, that took months to cross the ocean from England. They landed on St. Clement's Island and soon sailed down the St. Mary's River to found St. Mary's City. Lord Baltimore and Leonard Calvert promised—and delivered—religious freedom.



With all of the original buildings lost to history, the State of Maryland has gradually reconstructed a number of them, using the original foundations and whatever facts its archeologists could find or deduce regarding design, purpose, etc. While I'm not normally a big fan of recreated structures, I had to admire what's been accomplished here in the pursuit of history. This is the rebuilt statehouse from 1697:



The nicely finished interior was open to visitors and featured almost no barriers to exploration or disruptive signboards. It was very easy to imagine what the original had looked like, furnishings, activities, and all.



Somehow I encountered (and photographed) a fair number of open doorways on this trip. Here's the first, looking out of the statehouse toward the St. Mary's River. Note the absence of mysterious, spectral figures in this picture. (More on this later...)



This building is the reconstructed "Farthing's Ordinary" or tavern, which now serves as a gift shop.



Through the town, there are costumed guides who are quite happy to answer questions, demonstrate lifestyles, and smile for errant photog's—especially when it's a really pretty day.



Visitors can roam freely through these buildings, again with a minimum of intruding storyboards. In fact, most of the printed materials inside the buildings were handwritten or crudely typeset documents reflecting rules, prices, etc. from the 17th century.



A printer operated for many years in St. Mary's City, and the reconstructed shop houses an original-style press...



...and a lot of lead type!



Not to mention the occasional sample of typeset material. I challenge you to read this poem of "Life At Sea."



Records indicated that "a good brick chapelle" existed in St. Mary's—the first English Catholic chapel in America. In the midst of the English Civil War, the chapel was padlocked by the "sherriff" in 1704. It stayed that way for years, but its bricks and other materials were gradually hauled off to build other structures. An architectural historian tentatively identified its location in 1938, but then it was lost again until the early 1980s, when archeologists located the foundations—along with 3 very rare lead coffins beneath the floor of the chapel. In September of this year, a mere 305 years later, the current Sheriff unlocked the doors of the reconstructed chapel.



The interior of the chapel isn't finished yet, due to lack of funds. In capturing this inside-outside picture, I wanted a dramatic contrast between the dark interior and the bright sunny day outside. I completely failed to notice the shadowy, cloaked figure inside the chapel until I looked at the pictures at home. When was the last time that your hair stood on end?? Well, she (at least, I think it's a she) must have been there when I took the picture, but why didn't I notice?



Safely back outdoors, I could enjoy the contrasting hues and textures of the Fall colors and the Mackall Barn from 1785.



This ship's cannon was found (along with many others) at the bottom of the St. Mary's River.



Visitors are welcome inside Cordea's Hope (but think twice before trying that ladder...)



Naturally there's a replica of one of the original ships. The "Maryland Dove" was out sailing when I arrived, but eventually it returned. Knowing that visitors were welcome onboard, I hopped on and was happily exploring, taking pictures, etc., when I was thrown off the ship! Not overboard, you understand, but politely and firmly asked to leave. It turns out that they were still stowing gear from the morning's sail, and visitors weren't welcome yet. Oh well, I can now add a 17th century sailing vessel to the list of places that I've been thrown out of!



Near St. Mary's City is the (original) Trinity Church, from 1829. Did I mention what a beautiful day it was?



Also nearby, on the grounds of St. Mary's College, is the St. John's archeological site. The well-preserved foundation of this 1638 plantation house was fascinating, with its cellar (a rare luxury in the 1600s), its chimney foundations in the middle, and 2 large unexcavated areas awaiting further exploration. (The one toward the back of the site still has a tree stump, which dates back only to 1918.)



Back in the Z4, I zoomed off to the most southern tip of Maryland—Point Lookout. There I found exactly 2 fishermen, 1 state park ranger, and the Point Lookout lighthouse, which operated from 1830 to 1966.



Even the faithful Z4 seemed to enjoy the solitude of this thin peninsula between the Potomac River on the left and the Chesapeake Bay on the right. During the Civil War, a gigantic hospital stood on this exact spot, with 16 wings radiating from a common center in a circular pattern. It could provide care for 1,400 wounded soldiers. After the war, it was promptly dismantled and sold for scrap. You'd never know it had been there, just looking at the scene today.



Heading back north toward St. Mary's City and Leonardtown, I happened across this marine facility. As best I can tell, it doesn't belong to me...



St. Mary's College is one of the most attractive campuses I've seen in a long time.



It also has a very active sailing club. On the day of my visit, there were roughly 20 of these racing sailboats (470s?) out on the river, with enthusiastic students at the helm.



Leonardtown, MD proved to be quiet, remote, and full of interesting old historical buildings. Before this one became Duke's Fountain Bar Restaurant, it housed a car dealership and an upstairs(!) bowling alley. Word is that the bowling alley is still there, dusty and unused.



Among other scenes, the Leonardtown Mural depicts the arrest of Congressman Benjamin Harris on charges of war crimes following the Civil War. He was convicted and lost his seat in Congress, but the charges were later proved to be wildly trumped up, and he was pardoned by President Andrew Johnson. I guess one should choose where to sit in Leonardtown carefully...



Other scenes included the old jail (now the visitor center and featuring one of the Ark's cannons out front)...



...Tudor Hall Mansion, with portions of the building dating back to 1744...



...and this very interesting old building that should look fabulous when the renovations are completed. Note the ornate chimney on the left side (which is matched by another one on the right).



By now, the afternoon was drawing on, and I was anxious to get to St. Clement's Island Potomac Museum—one of my two original destinations. On the way, however, I had to detour to find the St. Francis Xaviar Church. It was built in 1731 but was preceded at this location by one from 1662. The main entrance was surrounded by a half-hexagon brick addition that came later, featuring a choir loft upstairs.



Inside, the church had a simple, elegant design and spare furnishings.



In this view, the brick addition is more apparent. There's another brick addition at the rear of the church—a half octagon in this case.



As interesting as the church was, I was stunned to find this massive manor house not far away. It had not been marked on my official St. Mary's County tourism map, and only one small plaque identified it as the "Manor of Little Brittaine."



Subsequent research on the Internet identified it as a manor house built in 1789 by the Jesuits, who had purchased this land and used it for farming, manufacturing, and similar efforts to earn money to support their missionary work. It was looking a bit rundown these days, with many windows boarded over. But yes, that is an open front door you see (a good 5 1/2 feet off the ground).



There was some evidence of renovation-in-progress inside. Note the brick interior walls—probably the reason that this 220-year-old building is still standing.



Now I was definitely running late. Naturally I had to pause for another picture of the Z4. Not a bad-looking sports car!



I'd almost reached St. Clement's when I ran across this scenic church, necessitating (yet) another photo op stop. Oakley Parish began in 1642, and the All Saints' Episcopal Church went up in 1846.



Finally I arrived in St. Clement's, just in time to find that the museum had closed 3 minutes earlier. (It's now a destination for a weekend trip with my wife Nancy.) My beautiful Fall day was coming to a close and getting cloudier and cooler by the moment. After a picture or two and a quick look at St. Clement's Island sitting a half mile offshore, it was time to head home.




On the way back up Route 5, I drove onto an abandoned farm in search of pictures, only to discover that the farm wasn't abandoned at all. Its owner, who lived in the somewhat ramshackle building on the left, welcomed me and was pleased that I wanted to photograph his "historic farm."



And speaking of older farms, I'll leave you all with one last shot—possibly my favorite of the trip—of this colorful barn and field. All told, it was a great day of touring. Although I've lived in Maryland most of my life, somehow it's still possible to be pleasantly surprised by the beauty and history of places within the State that I've never seen.



As always, if anyone is interested in the specific route, just let me know.

Rick F.

[Rick F.]

Hello (Hello Hello),
Is there anybody in there?
Just nod if you can hear me
Is there anyone home?

Rick F.

[M_Six]

I think we're all Comfortably Numb, Rick. Great write-up as usual. Nice pics. I miss the autumn colors of the northeast.

I need to get my Germany pics in order and get some posted. Digital cameras are a two-edged sword. You can take lots and lots of pictures, but then you have lots and lots of pictures to process and sort through.

[WhoU4]

Originally Posted by M_Six

I think we're all Comfortably Numb, Rick. Great write-up as usual. Nice pics. I miss the autumn colors of the northeast.

Rick,

I have to agree with Mark's comments above. It has to be wonderful to be able to jump in the car and go to some of the places you get to travel. And it's not like you don't try and take us with you on these trips either.

Always enjoy the write up, as you had another gorgeous day. Did you ask if "Rick's Marine" was available? Might be a nice change of pace.

Dave

[rc'Z]

GREAT! I've been to St. Mary's numerous times over the years,have family there, spentThanksgiving evening in the hospital there. I have to wake up to the world around me. Thanks again for yet another trip. Did I say GREAT work!!

[BMWI6]

Amazing as usual!!! If you don't mind me asking, how do you have so much spare time? You are living my dream!

[Bammered]

Great write up and amazing pictures!!

I would have been so tempted to explore the inside of that jesuit manor....

[Rick F.]

Originally Posted by M_Six

I think we're all Comfortably Numb, Rick. Great write-up as usual. Nice pics. I miss the autumn colors of the northeast.

I need to get my Germany pics in order and get some posted. Digital cameras are a two-edged sword. You can take lots and lots of pictures, but then you have lots and lots of pictures to process and sort through.

M_Six,

Yes, great song. And that Comfortably Numb feeling beats Dazed and Confused on most days!

I (and I'm sure many others) would love to see your pictures from Germany when you get a chance.

Rick F.

[Rick F.]

Originally Posted by WhoU4

Rick,

I have to agree with Mark's comments above. It has to be wonderful to be able to jump in the car and go to some of the places you get to travel. And it's not like you don't try and take us with you on these trips either.

Always enjoy the write up, as you had another gorgeous day. Did you ask if "Rick's Marine" was available? Might be a nice change of pace.

Dave

Dave,

There's nothing like a day with good weather, enough time for an interesting trip, and a Z4 to take you there (and back). This was definitely one of those occasions. And there are many times that I'd gladly swap my office job for "Rick's Marine." For kind of a hole-in-the-wall place, it looked like it might be pretty successful.

Rick F.

[Rick F.]

Originally Posted by rc'Z

GREAT! I've been to St. Mary's numerous times over the years,have family there, spentThanksgiving evening in the hospital there. I have to wake up to the world around me. Thanks again for yet another trip. Did I say GREAT work!!

rc'Z,

Thanks! As it happens, I enjoyed St. Mary's City so much that my wife and I are going there for Thanksgiving--hopefully not in the hospital!

With luck, the weather will be suitable for hiking down to the Calvert Cliffs for a little fossil-hunting.

Rick F.

[Rick F.]

Originally Posted by BMWI6

Amazing as usual!!! If you don't mind me asking, how do you have so much spare time? You are living my dream!

I6,

I'm glad you enjoyed the write-up. Regarding spare time, I don't mind your asking at all. I don't actually have a whole lot--I work at least 50 hours a week (I'm the chief actuary for the Medicare program, and there's lots going on these days with health care reform). Fortunately, I have a very short commute to work, which helps. No kids helps, too (a lot, I hear!)

The key thing is, I make time for the Z4 trips. They completely take my mind off of work, all the pressures, hassles, etc., and through the photography and write-up's I get a chance to exercise my creative side a little more. Of course, spending 1 day every couple of weeks on the trips causes me to get behind on everything around the house--but those leaves can wait a little longer...

Rick F.

[Rick F.]

Originally Posted by Bammered

Great write up and amazing pictures!!

I would have been so tempted to explore the inside of that jesuit manor....

Bammered,

Yes, I have to admit that it was very tempting to jump up into the open doorway and have a good look around. The thing was, the manor house was on church property, I'd already gone into the church to look around and take pictures, and I didn't want to push my luck.

And, well, at my age it's not that easy to jump up into an open doorway that's 5 feet or so off the ground...

Maybe next time!

Rick F.

PS: Speaking of exploring abandoned places, you might enjoy my experience at Frick's Lock, PA, a year or two ago. It was a fascinating place--but a little too fascinating at one point. Here's the link:

Trespassing Treasure (PA Ghost Towns)

[BMWI6]

Originally Posted by Rick F.

I6,

I'm glad you enjoyed the write-up. Regarding spare time, I don't mind your asking at all. I don't actually have a whole lot--I work at least 50 hours a week (I'm the chief actuary for the Medicare program, and there's lots going on these days with health care reform). Fortunately, I have a very short commute to work, which helps. No kids helps, too (a lot, I hear!)

The key thing is, I make time for the Z4 trips. They completely take my mind off of work, all the pressures, hassles, etc., and through the photography and write-up's I get a chance to exercise my creative side a little more. Of course, spending 1 day every couple of weeks on the trips causes me to get behind on everything around the house--but those leaves can wait a little longer...

Rick F.

Oh Wow, it is amazing how well you manage your time then with a job of such high responsibility. Thank you for taking the time to share with us, and I look forward to reading more of your posts.