.::DIY - How to make your trunk/hatch 'pop' open more::.

[Jmanscotch]

Credit where credit's due: I used this idea from another gentleman (Iansanderson, E46fanatics.com).

Are you a bigger handed person and/or are tired of trying to open a trunk that has no handle and only a very small gap once open? Then this ~$11 mod might be worth it for you.

The E85/6 platform comes with simple static rubber bump stops installed on the trunk lid. If you remove those and replace with these spring loaded bump stops, you'll be able to open your trunk/hatch with ease!

Tools/Parts needed:

- Pliers
- P/N: 51248137994 - 23N* - Two (2) needed - ~$5.50 each

OR, depending on application:

- P/N 51248187291 - 34N* - $5.75 each

* 23N versus 34N strength ejectors are discussed below.



Begin by opening the trunk and locating the bump stops in question. In the picture below, they are the round black rubber items on either side of the trunk latch.






To remove the old bump stops, grab onto the exposed portion with your pliers and turn them counter-clockwise. You'll notice they being to back out of the trunk lid and will eventually come completely out.

A comparison shot of stock bump stop (Right) and the upgrade ejecting bump stop (left).



For installing the new units, you'll note the hole in the trunk lid is a key-hole like shape. The cut out is there as a place to begin threading the bump back into the hole, make sure to orientate the beginning thread of the bump stop so that it enters the cut out. Tighten it down by screwing it in clockwise and turn it down to the depth that you found your original stops to be at.



Done.

For comparisons of the difference it makes, a few before and after shots. This is how the trunk sits when first opened.








A very simple mod and one you'll likely come to forget has been done, but IMHO, it is worth the $11 for the added ease of opening the trunk.

[ZStig]

thx for the tip

[epbrown]

Nice - better than that stupid handle I bought (and never installed).

[Kgolf31]

Jake, Wash your car...it's dirty.

Nice mod though

[Jmanscotch]

Haha, it'd been pointless with all of this rain we've had!

Originally Posted by epbrown

Nice - better than that stupid handle I bought (and never installed).

I saw some of those, was curious to get a review on them as the pictures on ebay didn't really show it from the best angle and it seemed like it might not work too well. A combo of both might be something that'd work though...

[Ron Stygar]

Originally Posted by Jmanscotch

Credit where credit's due: I used this idea from another gentleman (Iansanderson, E46fanatics.com).

I like people with ideas.

Do you have to slam it to close?

Did you try the ones in front?
Your using 23N.
Front is 34N.

On the hood, I changed the 34N to the 23N so I don't have to slam it.
In that time I looked for the coupe trunk issue and I didn't to it since I didn't research what opened it. On the sides bumpers may do it. Each is ~$21.00.
Will see if the coupe works. Thanks.

My Z3 coupe didn't have the 23N on the roadster.
We used the door lock switch with a controller (John F.) and if you held it for .7 second the trunk would open if less then 5MPH.
When John gets going we will do that on the Z4.

I also have switches on the B pillars that open the trunk from the sides stopped instead of opening the doors.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...72&postcount=1

[Jmanscotch]

No need to slam it, it seems to close with about the same amount of effort as before (didn't make a point to compare, but haven't noticed any extra effort or experienced it not closing easily).

I didn't mess with the front, I see the front to have sufficient opening for me to open the hood just fine. I didn't even realize there were different strength ejectors. I used these part numbers on my E46 and found it to work well, so I simply dug up the thread again and order the same part numbers for my Z.

Interesting ideas you link though...not sure it's worth the modification to the B pillars for me, but neat and an idea for some I'm sure.

To be frank, I didn't put near as much thought into as you, Ron.

[Ron Stygar]

23N both fits Z4M coupe trunk lid.

Closed 5/16". Open with the drivers side (I only have one) is 1/2".
Passenger slight lower. Will purchase another if it makes it higher both sides. To lift the Z4M coupe is 11 pounds.

I also had some 3M xpel clear circles made of like BMW at Z3 but double .014".
I put them in my Z4M coupe hood where it hits with the two front and one rear switch.
I will put two in the back for the trunk area where it hits.

Also had some 3M xpel clear rectangular like the stock ones that you can't purchase. It is double thick too.

I have sold circles and rectangles and have some.

Circle $6 for ten.

Rectangle $8 for two.

Haven't found the pics yet.

[kinkkujuusto]

Is there a way to fully open the trunk?
Like this..

[Jmanscotch]

Without getting too fancy, the stronger lift shock idea might work. The trunk is relatively light, so some stronger ones may allow it to pop all the way open while not introducing SO much resistance that you'd have an awlful time trying to close it.

[Lark]

I had an '06 545 with the fully opening trunk. Didn't realize I would miss it until I got my 335. It is handy to have it open fully when you punch the trunk release button.

[jragan]

They're called "buffer stop with ejectors" and you can find them under the hood of your zed. They come in two different spring strengths. They're also EXTREMELY fragile and if you slam your hood (or trunk in this case) regularly as opposed to just pushing it closed, you'll eventually force the ejector through the bottom of the buffer assembly (which is why some folks have swapped out the high-strength spring model used under the zed bonnet with the lower-strength units).

[jragan]

Originally Posted by jragan

They're called "buffer stop with ejectors" and you can find them under the hood of your zed. They come in two different spring strengths. They're also EXTREMELY fragile and if you slam your hood (or trunk in this case) regularly as opposed to just pushing it closed, you'll eventually force the ejector through the bottom of the buffer assembly (which is why some folks have swapped out the high-strength spring model used under the zed bonnet with the lower-strength units).

I should have read the entire thread first before I posted. I see Ron made most of my post redundant

[Jmanscotch]

Originally Posted by Lark

I had an '06 545 with the fully opening trunk. Didn't realize I would miss it until I got my 335. It is handy to have it open fully when you punch the trunk release button.

Concerning the posters question above your post; are you in the know on how they made that function work? Was it electrical or mechanical? I've never seen it in person so I'm not enlightened on how BMW made it work or if it'd potentially be something someone could retrofit with relative ease.

Originally Posted by jragan

They're called "buffer stop with ejectors" and you can find them under the hood of your zed. They come in two different spring strengths. They're also EXTREMELY fragile and if you slam your hood (or trunk in this case) regularly as opposed to just pushing it closed, you'll eventually force the ejector through the bottom of the buffer assembly (which is why some folks have swapped out the high-strength spring model used under the zed bonnet with the lower-strength units).

We can call 'em cold nipples for all I care

I had these lower-strength units (before I knew there were different ones) in my E46 for ~30K miles and never busted them, so those switching maybe onto something.

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by jragan

They're called "buffer stop with ejectors" and you can find them under the hood of your zed. They come in two different spring strengths. They're also EXTREMELY fragile and if you slam your hood (or trunk in this case) regularly as opposed to just pushing it closed, you'll eventually force the ejector through the bottom of the buffer assembly (which is why some folks have swapped out the high-strength spring model used under the zed bonnet with the lower-strength units).

Don't slam the hood at all, and they've failed on one of our cars. They're just sitting there just below the top, not yet pushed through. But the spring has sprung! (Happened over the holidays.)

Guess I need two lower strength ones. Perfect timing on this thread!

[XMetal]

Tried this mod today, but unfortunately, it didn't work too well for the coupe...probably due to the hatch being heavier than the roadster. Not all was lost though, since one of my front ejector just failed - the end cap along with the internal spring are no where to be found (somewhat of a perfect timing), I replaced both fronts with these 23N. Hopefully, the lower strength ejectors would hold up better.

[Jax543210]

What's the part number for the 23N & and what is it for the 34N ? The part number listed at the top of this thread doesn't specify.

[Jmanscotch]

P/N 51248137994 are the 23N*
P/N 51248187291 are the 34N*

*Source: Realoem.com

To add a bit of a review now that I've had them longer:

I have caught myself not closing the trunk hard enough to allow the latch to catch with these installed. I'm in my trunk often enough, but have maybe not closed it well enough 3-4 times since installation. It seems the Z trunk lid is considerably lighter than an E46 lid as I never had an issue on that one.

[Jax543210]

My Z4 coupe 2007, did not come with ejector buffer stops for the hood. The stops under the hood are weird and have a phillips head screw in the center of them. How do I remove this type of stop and can it be replaced with ejector style buffer stops?

[XMetal]

Jax, That IS the ejector stopper that happened to be broken! Just twist the rubber piece counter-clockwise to remove it.

[bucko521]

Ok, I can't make heads or tails out of this thread.

If I want to get my trunk to pop up more...which of the two part numbers should I use?

P/N 51248137994 are the 23N*
P/N 51248187291 are the 34N*

I went to my local dealer to view each part.... seems they need to special order these for me to even view which ones I should get. I even explained exactly what I was trying to accomplish to the parts guy.

The guy said he had no idea...he could order the parts based on the numbers I gave him but couldn't promise I'd actually get what I wanted cause it wasn't verified by a BMW Tech. And to top it off, he wanted an up front cost for the special order with $25.00 shipping charge....and a 50% re-stocking fee IF I don't want to keep either set.

Sheesh...I sure wish I had a decent stealer to chat/deal with.

In the end...I'll order online and not give these guys one Canadian nickel.

[Jax543210]

Originally Posted by XMetal

Jax, That IS the ejector stopper that happened to be broken! Just twist the rubber piece counter-clockwise to remove it.

hmmm What part of the stopper that I photographed is suppossed to eject, I'm guessing its not the phillips head screw.

Nevermind, the philips head screw is definitely the part that ejects. I just went to touch it and the screw head disappeared down the center of the rubber stopper and won't pop back up, as if the spring is broken or stuck