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      12-09-2013, 10:41 PM   #1145
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I spent 2 hours with new cobalt drill bits trying to make holes in the rear bumper beam, and couldn't even penetrate one hole. REMOVED the rear bumper beam, put it on my drill press, and broke a new 1/8" drill bit. wow, this is some serious metal
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      12-10-2013, 06:54 AM   #1146
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Get better bits. Really. The bumper isn't hardened material!
Also, less pressure, and probably a slower speed. You go too fast and you'll gall up the bit and it won't ever drill properly again.
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      12-10-2013, 04:16 PM   #1147
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Anyone know what this code means? The car keeps stalling out randomly. Fuel level and voltage seem ok. 12.2v stationary 14.3 or so when running
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      12-18-2013, 02:08 AM   #1148
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I have the 5.11inch crank pulley, and 3.06 inch supercharger pulley with a 6pk2360 belt that came with the VT2-500 kit.

I changed as a first step to 6pk2330 as advised by AJ, he told me that this setup should provide 7 PSI peak.

At this point, i just stopped understanding how this works, it's either we are all wrong or have problems with our S54 heads or ESS packaging team just don't understand what they are doing when packaging.
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      12-18-2013, 06:07 AM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tikamak View Post
I have the 5.11inch crank pulley, and 3.06 inch supercharger pulley with a 6pk2360 belt that came with the VT2-500 kit.

I changed as a first step to 6pk2330 as advised by AJ, he told me that this setup should provide 7 PSI peak.

At this point, i just stopped understanding how this works, it's either we are all wrong or have problems with our S54 heads or ESS packaging team just don't understand what they are doing when packaging.
the latter.
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      12-18-2013, 08:39 AM   #1150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
the latter.
So i have the wrong pulleys for a VT2-500 kit.
Is that correct? can i have a confirmation from more than 1 person ?

Also how are you measuring your pulleys?

Do you all know that our supercharger bracket flexes and is causing the dreaded belt slip? I'm having my mechanic construct a bracket support in order to reduce the flex a little bit
I can move the supercharger around 2 cm with my hand
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      12-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #1151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tikamak View Post
So i have the wrong pulleys for a VT2-500 kit.
Is that correct? can i have a confirmation from more than 1 person ?

Also how are you measuring your pulleys?

Do you all know that our supercharger bracket flexes and is causing the dreaded belt slip? I'm having my mechanic construct a bracket support in order to reduce the flex a little bit
I can move the supercharger around 2 cm with my hand
i wasn't saying your pulleys are wrong, i was just saying ess seem to be shipping incorrect parts / missing parts with these kits quite abit, and ess want a-little flex to help belt alignment, mine definitely does not move 2cm at all!! tighten the bugger up!! if your flex was causing an issue, you wouldnt have belt slip, you'd have the belt jumping off the pulley..... either way you shouldn't be getting that type of movement!
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Last edited by Beedub; 12-18-2013 at 10:05 AM..
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      12-18-2013, 10:48 AM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
i wasn't saying your pulleys are wrong, i was just saying ess seem to be shipping incorrect parts / missing parts with these kits quite abit, and ess want a-little flex to help belt alignment, mine definitely does not move 2cm at all!! tighten the bugger up!! if your flex was causing an issue, you wouldnt have belt slip, you'd have the belt jumping off the pulley..... either way you shouldn't be getting that type of movement!
How's my pulleys not wrong? you have the same?

you have 5.11, 3.25 and 6pk2310
I have 5.11, 3.06 and 6pk2360 --> 6pk2330 (after replacement)
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      12-18-2013, 12:52 PM   #1153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tikamak View Post
How's my pulleys not wrong? you have the same?

you have 5.11, 3.25 and 6pk2310
I have 5.11, 3.06 and 6pk2360 --> 6pk2330 (after replacement)

READ WHAT I SED... I DIDNT SAY YOU HAVE INCORRECT PULLIES... ... i sed ess seem to be shipping lots of incorrect parts with these kits, at no point have i said YOUR pullies are incorrect, i have no friggin idea..... all i know is my car makes solid, consistant boost... i do however habe boost upgrade coming....
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      12-18-2013, 04:01 PM   #1154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
READ WHAT I SED... I DIDNT SAY YOU HAVE INCORRECT PULLIES... ... i sed ess seem to be shipping lots of incorrect parts with these kits, at no point have i said YOUR pullies are incorrect, i have no friggin idea..... all i know is my car makes solid, consistant boost... i do however habe boost upgrade coming....
Easy byron, no need for caps.
I was expecting to have the same setup as you.

But it seems that i am far off away from you.
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      12-18-2013, 06:00 PM   #1155
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3.06" supercharger pulley? That sounds like an odd size. Please re-measure.

I dont believe i have 2cm of play in my bracket either
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      12-19-2013, 01:59 AM   #1156
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3.06" supercharger pulley or 3 inch something like that.
It measured 77.9 mm something like that.

How do you guys measure? just so that we are on the same page.
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      12-19-2013, 12:59 PM   #1157
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It should have the size on the back of it written. I will check measurements on my old pulley, i think its about 2mm smaller than full external diameter. Measured on the top of the hills where the belt sits
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      01-16-2014, 10:47 AM   #1158
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tom.... maybe you should have just swapped out to the 928 billet wheel upgrade for the v3 which around around 2lbs or boost at redline on the same pulley according to their data unless im reading it wrong, this wheel takes the unit to 1200CFM, T-trim lvels of flow...

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      01-16-2014, 01:22 PM   #1159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
tom.... maybe you should have just swapped out to the 928 billet wheel upgrade for the v3 which around around 2lbs or boost at redline on the same pulley according to their data unless im reading it wrong, this wheel takes the unit to 1200CFM, T-trim lvels of flow...

Right now I've spent too much money trying to keep my car running. The last thing on my mind are upgrades.

New alternator $750 (wrong diagnosis by me and friend), new fuel pump ~$600, new crank sensor $160, new battery + diagnosis $350, new starter plus install $350. And now I might need to replace my fairly new fuel pump because I had stalling issues a few days ago.

as per my other thread
"I was told that my 320 CCA, 16lbs battery didn't have enough cranking power and was causing issues. Replaced with a 34lbs 650 CCA battery. Worked fine for a few days

Then I had issues with the car stalling after a long drive with some heat soak, and not re-starting. Clicks but no crank. Diagnosed with a bad starter, and they said it was probably killing my small battery. Installed new starter.

So car starts fine now, but I had a hard code for low fuel pressure and fuel pump when I brought it in for the starter job. I have a 3 month old Aeromotive 340 pump in the tank, with a new OEM fuel pressure regulator/filter. I'm really upset, and hope that by some miracle the fuel issues were caused by some sort of shorting issues in my starter.

I really don't want to replace the fuel pump if I don't have to. I'm hoping the code doesn't come back. Thankfully my fuel pump is under warranty, but this might be the last straw for me if I have to replace it"
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      01-16-2014, 02:07 PM   #1160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
Right now I've spent too much money trying to keep my car running. The last thing on my mind are upgrades.

New alternator $750 (wrong diagnosis by me and friend), new fuel pump ~$600, new crank sensor $160, new battery + diagnosis $350, new starter plus install $350. And now I might need to replace my fairly new fuel pump because I had stalling issues a few days ago.

as per my other thread
"I was told that my 320 CCA, 16lbs battery didn't have enough cranking power and was causing issues. Replaced with a 34lbs 650 CCA battery. Worked fine for a few days

Then I had issues with the car stalling after a long drive with some heat soak, and not re-starting. Clicks but no crank. Diagnosed with a bad starter, and they said it was probably killing my small battery. Installed new starter.

So car starts fine now, but I had a hard code for low fuel pressure and fuel pump when I brought it in for the starter job. I have a 3 month old Aeromotive 340 pump in the tank, with a new OEM fuel pressure regulator/filter. I'm really upset, and hope that by some miracle the fuel issues were caused by some sort of shorting issues in my starter.

I really don't want to replace the fuel pump if I don't have to. I'm hoping the code doesn't come back. Thankfully my fuel pump is under warranty, but this might be the last straw for me if I have to replace it"

oh shit........ sorry to hear this.... ...... ...... cars can be bastard right when the finances are fucked...... good luck and keep us posted!!! i'd noticed youd been very quiet as of recent...

good luck buddy.



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      01-16-2014, 04:26 PM   #1161
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Have you guys ha any thoughts as to the point of diminishing returns - I know when drag racing we used to figure that a second on the quarter mile cost about $1000.00 and a sure chance at some point of blowing up the engine.

I know these cars are tough and the engines are almost bullet proof but even F-1 motors will explode and they are also hellish expensive to replace

My 5psi kit is all I am gonna push this sucker cause half the attraction is the looks and it don't look great sitting still.

Spend another 50 G and get a 014 Stingray with 450hp out of the box and a WARRANTY.

If we wanted to build a go fast - we used to get an old body with a very high end drive train and motor and we didn't give a shit if it wrecked - you do get to the point of NO RETURN at some point - guess its fun if you like to push the envelope.

Be careful
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      01-16-2014, 05:53 PM   #1162
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Its the non-supercharger related stuff thats been breaking for me. I think 520rwhp is a safe level for this engine, tranny, and diff

and I think you mean .1 second costs about $1000, not a full second for a quarter mile


Yes, I wouldn't mind having a low mileage Evora S or new Z06 in my garage, but that is double the car payment
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      01-21-2014, 06:13 PM   #1163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
tom.... maybe you should have just swapped out to the 928 billet wheel upgrade for the v3 which around around 2lbs or boost at redline on the same pulley according to their data unless im reading it wrong, this wheel takes the unit to 1200CFM, T-trim lvels of flow...

I contacted 928MS about your post and they said that they don't have any impeller upgrade for the Vortech V3si...

About a 8rib upgrade i got in touch with ca-automotive and they have a kit for the ess kits.
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      01-21-2014, 07:41 PM   #1164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drbvac
Have you guys ha any thoughts as to the point of diminishing returns - I know when drag racing we used to figure that a second on the quarter mile cost about $1000.00 and a sure chance at some point of blowing up the engine.

I know these cars are tough and the engines are almost bullet proof but even F-1 motors will explode and they are also hellish expensive to replace

My 5psi kit is all I am gonna push this sucker cause half the attraction is the looks and it don't look great sitting still.

Spend another 50 G and get a 014 Stingray with 450hp out of the box and a WARRANTY.

If we wanted to build a go fast - we used to get an old body with a very high end drive train and motor and we didn't give a shit if it wrecked - you do get to the point of NO RETURN at some point - guess its fun if you like to push the envelope.

Be careful
I payed 25k for my Z4M used and have put another 25 k into it . It has a legit 460whp , 8100 rpm redline ,and weighs in at 3150 lbs . It has zero computer intervention with DSC off , has telepathic hydraulic steering and an epic chassis that demands skill to perform. It frequently bests GT3's and Z06's at the track and is incredibly rewarding to drive . It is irreplaceable period .
George
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      01-21-2014, 07:59 PM   #1165
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Yeah - thanks 1/10 second is a grand or thereabouts - if you couldn't mod your car what is the good of it. Have to pick good stuff though - i supercharged another car and it NEVER worked right again - overheating - stalling - disaster - had to take it off
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      01-22-2014, 01:23 PM   #1166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmd2003 View Post
I payed 25k for my Z4M used and have put another 25 k into it . It has a legit 460whp , 8100 rpm redline ,and weighs in at 3150 lbs . It has zero computer intervention with DSC off , has telepathic hydraulic steering and an epic chassis that demands skill to perform. It frequently bests GT3's and Z06's at the track and is incredibly rewarding to drive . It is irreplaceable period .
George
its an incredible platform, ive had mine since it had 750 miles on the clock... since the mods got serious the car has just become a monster, im pulling some seriously quick times in on the right day over here and as quick as some properly expensive cars..... i will not be without it. Sadly with all the mods comes a price........ imo worth it however.
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