Peake Error Code HELP!!!

PrinceMiro · 11-04-2010, 05:13 PM

Ok I really need help here. I'm pulling 3 error codes on my Peake reader and my CEL is on. Please, any help is GREATLY appreciated because I really need to get my car functioning normally before the harsh winter weather kicks in. Thanks everyone.

2774: engine cut off time

29A3: Precat O2 Sensor Signal, Bank2

29B5: Secondary air system

pokeybritches · 11-04-2010, 11:24 PM

Mods?

PrinceMiro · 11-05-2010, 06:59 AM

none...the closest thing I have to an actual mod are my urethane bushings which have nothing to do with anything. I did some research and I've decided to replace both Precat O2 sensors. I also realized that when I changed my spark plugs a couple of months ago, I never had the ignition coils changed. So I'm going to get the Bavarian Autosport High-Performance Ignition Coil Set. As for the secondary air system error, I'm going to wait a few weeks on that. I'll install the sensors and coils, reset the system, and wait to see if any codes pop up again. Good/bad idea?

pokeybritches · 11-05-2010, 04:00 PM

FWIW I don't think coils are your problem. If a coil goes bad it will result in a misfire, and if it goes out completely it will continue to misfire while the car runs very rough. I'm not a mechanic though.

bdejong11129 · 11-05-2010, 06:53 PM

I dont think so either. The secondary air system is more than likely the cause here. Far to many people blame the messenger(O2 sensor) and replace it when it is the one that is telling you something else is causing the rich/lean condition.

The secondary air system runs for 30 or more seconds when you start the car to force extra air into the exhaust before the O2 sensors kick ina nd take control. The engine has to be cold for you to check. Look under the hood, I believe on the right hand side and you will find an electric pump the talkes in air and pumps it into the exhaust through a valve that closes when the air pump is no longer necessary.

I have seen far to many BMW's with failures in either the pump motor of the valve. Most also have a brittle or broken air tube since it is made of plastic.

I will go and take a few pictures for reference, but I would troubleshoot the pump and valve first before spending time and money on the O2 sensors.

bdejong11129 · 11-05-2010, 07:09 PM

Here is a picture of the air pump.

You can see the pump(big black thing), the plastic hose from the pump to the valve on the exhaust manifold and connected to that is the valve on the exhaust manifold(silver)

Farther down there is another plastic hose for bringing in fresh air to the pump. REMEMBER: the car must be dead cold, not kind of cold, not luke warm, but dead cold for this pump to turn on.

bdejong11129 · 11-05-2010, 07:11 PM

Also a good thread on the pump and testing it..Not the same car but they are all the same kind of system.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=309557

PrinceMiro · 11-06-2010, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdejong11129

Also a good thread on the pump and testing it..Not the same car but they are all the same kind of system.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=309557

thanks a lot for all the info man..seriously..so you really think I should replace the secondary air motor before I change the O2 sensor? I was honestly ready to replace them both (even though only the one for cyl. 4-6 needed to be replaced).

Oh and I know the ignition coils have nothing to do with the problem. I just want to replace them because I didn't do it when I replaced the spark plugs.

PrinceMiro · 11-06-2010, 11:37 AM

Ok so last night I was driving, stopped by a store (which obviously entailed turning the car off then back one). 2 minutes later i stop by another store. turn the car off. 10 min later i get back to the car and turn it on. the car starts then immediately dies. So i tried starting it a few more times immediately trying to rev the engine after start. after 5 times if finally worked and i drove home. this morning i go and start the car so i can listen to the air pump and it works fine. car was totally cold when i started it this morning. it started fine and the air pump came on for however long it's supposed to then turned off just like it's supposed to. so is this problem with the sensors? because i know that fuel/air ratio is affected by the output of the sensors. Or is there something i'm missing here? Please get into as much detail as possible because i need to get this fixed this week. thanks a lot.

bdejong11129 · 11-06-2010, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PrinceMiro

thanks a lot for all the info man..seriously..so you really think I should replace the secondary air motor before I change the O2 sensor? I was honestly ready to replace them both (even though only the one for cyl. 4-6 needed to be replaced).

Oh and I know the ignition coils have nothing to do with the problem. I just want to replace them because I didn't do it when I replaced the spark plugs.

Nope, I wouldnt suggest replacing anything until we know its broken, just saying that you should test it out since it is part of the system and could lead to the O2 sensor reporting the faulty mixture.

bdejong11129 · 11-06-2010, 03:06 PM

It could very well be a bad sensor but I am puzzled as to why you would get the pump code if the pump is work as it should. Remember that there is more to the system than just the pump. There is also a valve in there that has to open up to get the air into the exhaust.

The way I would approach this is to reset the codes now that you have heard the pump run and see if you get the same code set back. From what I know the code for the O2 sensor is telling you that it detected a mixture that was out of limits. While this could result from a bad O2 sensor it is puzzleing that it has been combined with the air pump code.

Your description of hte parking lot incident would rule out the air pump since it should not have been asked to turn on with the car warm. You should reset your codes and try to duplicate the conditions and immediately read them out to see if you get the same set.

I would first let the car get cold again, reset the codes, start the car up and verify that the air pump runs and then shut down and read codes. If there are no codes then its off t the road to get the CEL to light up and then immediately pull codes again. It could just be a bad sensor but the air pump codes makes me wonder if that is all there is to it. Then again while thinking about this and typing it out, if the pump is running and the reading from the O2 is off it could use that as a symptom to light up the air pump code.

Sorry I cant be of any other help, I feel your pain. I had E34 540 that threw codes for the O2 sensor for two weeks until I found the small vacuum nipple that was not where it should be and replaced it. NOT saying this is the cause just relating that the messenger(O2 sensor) could be just fine...

pokeybritches · 11-08-2010, 03:43 AM

^Sounds like a good plan. Prepare to be bombarded with questions lol:

1. Are the bank 2 sensors the secondary O2s?

2. Do you have any more info on the cold start process? Specifically, are the sensors just not turned on upon start-up, or are they on but the computer doesn't use them to make any closed-loop emissions calculations (they're there and trying to talk, but the computer just ignores them)? I'm thinking that if they are on but not used to make any adjustments, they could still throw a code prior to the end of the 30 second warm-up period... because while the computer doesn't use their readings to make any changes, it can still determine if they are screwed up. The O2 sensors would be like the new guy that really doesn't know what he's talking about at a business meeting and whose advice everybody ignores, unless he starts screaming something like, "My leg is broken!" or "The building is on fire!" Something like that would throw a code.

If they are off completely then I'd assume the car can't detect if they are in good working order, so any code that the car spit out prior to the end of the 30 second warm-up would not be related to the O2s (and replacing them would be a waste of money).

PrinceMiro · 11-09-2010, 08:57 AM

Update: I went to a shop last Saturday in NJ that specializes in German cars (especially BMWs). So he hooked it up to his reader and pulled up some other codes including the ones I had. But the program said "fault currently not present" for each of the codes. So we agreed he would clear all the codes and I would go back on Thursday and whichever codes popped back up, were the problem. So today I start the car in the morning, no problem. The 30 seconds pass fine and no CEL. Then about 25 seconds after I start driving, the CEL came on. When I got to my school's parking deck, I pulled out my Peake reader and only one code came up. 29A3 "Precat O2 Sensor Signal, Bank2." This is good news to me because I already ordered both Precat sensors over the weekend and they're arriving today. So hopefully I install them on Thursday and that cures the problem.

bdejong11129 · 11-09-2010, 11:34 AM

Good to hear, make sure to post back if this resolves teh issue or not. Nothing worse than a dead thread with no resolution....

PrinceMiro · 11-10-2010, 09:41 AM

Update #2: Started car fine today and drove on highway for 5 minutes. This highway turns into a city street so there's a traffic light at the end of the highway portion. When I stopped at that red light, the car started vibrating and I saw the RPM needle bounce up and down. So I put it in neutral and revved it a bit and it was fine. When I got to the parking deck, I scanned the car again with the Peake Reader. This time I got 2 codes. The O2 sensor and the 2774: Engine Cutoff Time code.

I feel like the faulty sensor could be causing the other code, but I could be mistaken. Any comments?

PrinceMiro · 11-10-2010, 04:27 PM

Bump for an answer.

PrinceMiro · 11-17-2010, 11:53 AM

So I replaced both pre cat sensors last Thursday. The car ran fine from then until yesterday. I even drove a good 60-70 miles this weekend with no problems. Yesterday the CEL comes on again. I scan the car and 2774 "engine cutoff time" comes up. So far, no rough idling (at least none that I've noticed). Any ideas?

I already madean appt for an alignment for this Friday at a good shop. I'm just going to have them diagnose the problem.

PrinceMiro · 07-27-2011, 09:15 AM

Ok so this thread has been dead for a while. I've searched all forums and used every possible search engine to find out what the "2774: engine cutoff time" code means and I've found nothing. This is not a stored code. It comes up at some point in time after I clear all the codes. Never fails. I think it might be related to a sound I hear 5 seconds after I turn off the car. You guys know how at the end of an electric guitarist's performance, he scratches the strings or something like that to make a weird screechy type sound? The sound after I turn the car off is similar to that. I'll post a video with the sound. But does anyone have any input regarding this issue (or both issues if they're unrelated)?

inTgr8r · 07-27-2011, 09:31 AM

Thanks for keeping us up to date on this.
Sorry I can't be of help, hopefully someone else will chime in.

BMW Maniac · 07-27-2011, 02:27 PM

Seeing how this has been about 8 months, I think it is time and suck it up and take it to a BMW dealer to be rectified.....unless your mechanic has the same BMW specific fault reader, and since there is zero info for you on the internet, I would end your misery and take it in. I know after all is said and done, I accept defeat and the dealer could probably tell you in a couple hours what the problem is.....then, you'll stop spending money on parts because you're just shooting in the dark.

PrinceMiro · 07-27-2011, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMW Maniac

Seeing how this has been about 8 months, I think it is time and suck it up and take it to a BMW dealer to be rectified.....unless your mechanic has the same BMW specific fault reader, and since there is zero info for you on the internet, I would end your misery and take it in. I know after all is said and done, I accept defeat and the dealer could probably tell you in a couple hours what the problem is.....then, you'll stop spending money on parts because you're just shooting in the dark.

Well I did need the new O2 sensors. That light never came back on. Maybe you're right about the 2774 problem though. Could just pay the $150 diagnostic fee and have them tell me what's wrong with it.

PrinceMiro · 07-27-2011, 07:17 PM

Ok did some more research (because I was bored) and it paid off. I figured I'd scour the e46fanatics forum for the answer. I got opinions, which led me to investigate further and discover that some of those opinions are right. Many people think it's a fuel pump problem. Well, remember the sound I was referring to earlier after I turn the car off? It's the fuel pump turning off. Check out this video. Start listening from the 1 minute mark. The sound I'm referring to is around 1:03. However, mine is super loud. You have to strain to hear the sound in this video.

So I'm thinking I should swap out my fuel pump to at least remedy the sound and hope that the people who think the "2774: Engine Cutoff Time" problem is a faulty fuel pump are right. What do you think?

11-04-2010, 05:13 PM	#1
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	Peake Error Code HELP!!! Ok I really need help here. I'm pulling 3 error codes on my Peake reader and my CEL is on. Please, any help is GREATLY appreciated because I really need to get my car functioning normally before the harsh winter weather kicks in. Thanks everyone. 2774: engine cut off time 29A3: Precat O2 Sensor Signal, Bank2 29B5: Secondary air system
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11-05-2010, 06:59 AM	#3
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	none...the closest thing I have to an actual mod are my urethane bushings which have nothing to do with anything. I did some research and I've decided to replace both Precat O2 sensors. I also realized that when I changed my spark plugs a couple of months ago, I never had the ignition coils changed. So I'm going to get the Bavarian Autosport High-Performance Ignition Coil Set. As for the secondary air system error, I'm going to wait a few weeks on that. I'll install the sensors and coils, reset the system, and wait to see if any codes pop up again. Good/bad idea?
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11-05-2010, 04:00 PM	#4
pokeybritches Colonel 479 Rep 2,782 Posts Drives: ESS/G-Power Z4M, VF Z4, 996tt Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (12) Garage List 2006 BMW Z4M [10.00] 2006 BMW Z4M [8.50] 2003 BMW Z4 3.0i [9.00]	FWIW I don't think coils are your problem. If a coil goes bad it will result in a misfire, and if it goes out completely it will continue to misfire while the car runs very rough. I'm not a mechanic though.
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11-05-2010, 06:53 PM	#5
bdejong11129 Private First Class 7 Rep 114 Posts Drives: 87 E30 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Raleigh iTrader: (0)	I dont think so either. The secondary air system is more than likely the cause here. Far to many people blame the messenger(O2 sensor) and replace it when it is the one that is telling you something else is causing the rich/lean condition. The secondary air system runs for 30 or more seconds when you start the car to force extra air into the exhaust before the O2 sensors kick ina nd take control. The engine has to be cold for you to check. Look under the hood, I believe on the right hand side and you will find an electric pump the talkes in air and pumps it into the exhaust through a valve that closes when the air pump is no longer necessary. I have seen far to many BMW's with failures in either the pump motor of the valve. Most also have a brittle or broken air tube since it is made of plastic. I will go and take a few pictures for reference, but I would troubleshoot the pump and valve first before spending time and money on the O2 sensors.
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11-05-2010, 07:09 PM	#6
bdejong11129 Private First Class 7 Rep 114 Posts Drives: 87 E30 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Raleigh iTrader: (0)	Here is a picture of the air pump. You can see the pump(big black thing), the plastic hose from the pump to the valve on the exhaust manifold and connected to that is the valve on the exhaust manifold(silver) Farther down there is another plastic hose for bringing in fresh air to the pump. REMEMBER: the car must be dead cold, not kind of cold, not luke warm, but dead cold for this pump to turn on.
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11-04-2010, 11:24 PM	#2
pokeybritches Colonel 479 Rep 2,782 Posts Drives: ESS/G-Power Z4M, VF Z4, 996tt Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (12) Garage List 2006 BMW Z4M [10.00] 2006 BMW Z4M [8.50] 2003 BMW Z4 3.0i [9.00]	Mods?
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11-05-2010, 07:11 PM	#7
bdejong11129 Private First Class 7 Rep 114 Posts Drives: 87 E30 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Raleigh iTrader: (0)	Also a good thread on the pump and testing it..Not the same car but they are all the same kind of system. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=309557
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11-06-2010, 11:37 AM	#9
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	Ok so last night I was driving, stopped by a store (which obviously entailed turning the car off then back one). 2 minutes later i stop by another store. turn the car off. 10 min later i get back to the car and turn it on. the car starts then immediately dies. So i tried starting it a few more times immediately trying to rev the engine after start. after 5 times if finally worked and i drove home. this morning i go and start the car so i can listen to the air pump and it works fine. car was totally cold when i started it this morning. it started fine and the air pump came on for however long it's supposed to then turned off just like it's supposed to. so is this problem with the sensors? because i know that fuel/air ratio is affected by the output of the sensors. Or is there something i'm missing here? Please get into as much detail as possible because i need to get this fixed this week. thanks a lot.
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11-06-2010, 03:06 PM	#11
bdejong11129 Private First Class 7 Rep 114 Posts Drives: 87 E30 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Raleigh iTrader: (0)	It could very well be a bad sensor but I am puzzled as to why you would get the pump code if the pump is work as it should. Remember that there is more to the system than just the pump. There is also a valve in there that has to open up to get the air into the exhaust. The way I would approach this is to reset the codes now that you have heard the pump run and see if you get the same code set back. From what I know the code for the O2 sensor is telling you that it detected a mixture that was out of limits. While this could result from a bad O2 sensor it is puzzleing that it has been combined with the air pump code. Your description of hte parking lot incident would rule out the air pump since it should not have been asked to turn on with the car warm. You should reset your codes and try to duplicate the conditions and immediately read them out to see if you get the same set. I would first let the car get cold again, reset the codes, start the car up and verify that the air pump runs and then shut down and read codes. If there are no codes then its off t the road to get the CEL to light up and then immediately pull codes again. It could just be a bad sensor but the air pump codes makes me wonder if that is all there is to it. Then again while thinking about this and typing it out, if the pump is running and the reading from the O2 is off it could use that as a symptom to light up the air pump code. Sorry I cant be of any other help, I feel your pain. I had E34 540 that threw codes for the O2 sensor for two weeks until I found the small vacuum nipple that was not where it should be and replaced it. NOT saying this is the cause just relating that the messenger(O2 sensor) could be just fine... Last edited by bdejong11129; 11-06-2010 at 03:07 PM.. Reason: cant spell....
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11-08-2010, 03:43 AM	#12
pokeybritches Colonel 479 Rep 2,782 Posts Drives: ESS/G-Power Z4M, VF Z4, 996tt Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (12) Garage List 2006 BMW Z4M [10.00] 2006 BMW Z4M [8.50] 2003 BMW Z4 3.0i [9.00]	^Sounds like a good plan. Prepare to be bombarded with questions lol: 1. Are the bank 2 sensors the secondary O2s? 2. Do you have any more info on the cold start process? Specifically, are the sensors just not turned on upon start-up, or are they on but the computer doesn't use them to make any closed-loop emissions calculations (they're there and trying to talk, but the computer just ignores them)? I'm thinking that if they are on but not used to make any adjustments, they could still throw a code prior to the end of the 30 second warm-up period... because while the computer doesn't use their readings to make any changes, it can still determine if they are screwed up. The O2 sensors would be like the new guy that really doesn't know what he's talking about at a business meeting and whose advice everybody ignores, unless he starts screaming something like, "My leg is broken!" or "The building is on fire!" Something like that would throw a code. If they are off completely then I'd assume the car can't detect if they are in good working order, so any code that the car spit out prior to the end of the 30 second warm-up would not be related to the O2s (and replacing them would be a waste of money).
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11-09-2010, 08:57 AM	#13
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	Update: I went to a shop last Saturday in NJ that specializes in German cars (especially BMWs). So he hooked it up to his reader and pulled up some other codes including the ones I had. But the program said "fault currently not present" for each of the codes. So we agreed he would clear all the codes and I would go back on Thursday and whichever codes popped back up, were the problem. So today I start the car in the morning, no problem. The 30 seconds pass fine and no CEL. Then about 25 seconds after I start driving, the CEL came on. When I got to my school's parking deck, I pulled out my Peake reader and only one code came up. 29A3 "Precat O2 Sensor Signal, Bank2." This is good news to me because I already ordered both Precat sensors over the weekend and they're arriving today. So hopefully I install them on Thursday and that cures the problem.
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11-09-2010, 11:34 AM	#14
bdejong11129 Private First Class 7 Rep 114 Posts Drives: 87 E30 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Raleigh iTrader: (0)	Good to hear, make sure to post back if this resolves teh issue or not. Nothing worse than a dead thread with no resolution....
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11-10-2010, 09:41 AM	#15
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	Update #2: Started car fine today and drove on highway for 5 minutes. This highway turns into a city street so there's a traffic light at the end of the highway portion. When I stopped at that red light, the car started vibrating and I saw the RPM needle bounce up and down. So I put it in neutral and revved it a bit and it was fine. When I got to the parking deck, I scanned the car again with the Peake Reader. This time I got 2 codes. The O2 sensor and the 2774: Engine Cutoff Time code. I feel like the faulty sensor could be causing the other code, but I could be mistaken. Any comments?
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11-10-2010, 04:27 PM	#16
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	Bump for an answer.
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11-17-2010, 11:53 AM	#17
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	So I replaced both pre cat sensors last Thursday. The car ran fine from then until yesterday. I even drove a good 60-70 miles this weekend with no problems. Yesterday the CEL comes on again. I scan the car and 2774 "engine cutoff time" comes up. So far, no rough idling (at least none that I've noticed). Any ideas? I already madean appt for an alignment for this Friday at a good shop. I'm just going to have them diagnose the problem.
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07-27-2011, 09:15 AM	#18
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	Ok so this thread has been dead for a while. I've searched all forums and used every possible search engine to find out what the "2774: engine cutoff time" code means and I've found nothing. This is not a stored code. It comes up at some point in time after I clear all the codes. Never fails. I think it might be related to a sound I hear 5 seconds after I turn off the car. You guys know how at the end of an electric guitarist's performance, he scratches the strings or something like that to make a weird screechy type sound? The sound after I turn the car off is similar to that. I'll post a video with the sound. But does anyone have any input regarding this issue (or both issues if they're unrelated)?
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07-27-2011, 09:31 AM	#19
inTgr8r Lieutenant General 2432 Rep 11,667 Posts Drives: M2 Comp Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Toronto iTrader: (10)	Thanks for keeping us up to date on this. Sorry I can't be of help, hopefully someone else will chime in. __________________ '21 M2C Hockenheim Silver '18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold) '13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold) '07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold)
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07-27-2011, 02:27 PM	#20
BMW Maniac Lieutenant 22 Rep 428 Posts Drives: Former Z4M coupe owner Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Orlando, FL iTrader: (1)	Seeing how this has been about 8 months, I think it is time and suck it up and take it to a BMW dealer to be rectified.....unless your mechanic has the same BMW specific fault reader, and since there is zero info for you on the internet, I would end your misery and take it in. I know after all is said and done, I accept defeat and the dealer could probably tell you in a couple hours what the problem is.....then, you'll stop spending money on parts because you're just shooting in the dark. __________________ 1997 /// M3 Coupe Arctic Silver CES STAGE IV (651rwhp/615rwtq) 1999 /// M3 Convertible Techno Violet
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07-27-2011, 07:17 PM	#22
PrinceMiro Lieutenant 42 Rep 407 Posts Drives: z4 3.0i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: CNJ iTrader: (3)	Ok did some more research (because I was bored) and it paid off. I figured I'd scour the e46fanatics forum for the answer. I got opinions, which led me to investigate further and discover that some of those opinions are right. Many people think it's a fuel pump problem. Well, remember the sound I was referring to earlier after I turn the car off? It's the fuel pump turning off. Check out this video. Start listening from the 1 minute mark. The sound I'm referring to is around 1:03. However, mine is super loud. You have to strain to hear the sound in this video. So I'm thinking I should swap out my fuel pump to at least remedy the sound and hope that the people who think the "2774: Engine Cutoff Time" problem is a faulty fuel pump are right. What do you think?
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