S54 Cam Bolt issue, dealer says 15 hours labor!

[karmasabish]

Hi guys, so I had a rattle in the valvetrain and decided to take it to my usual dealer. They did an inspection 2 which was due, and then they diagnosed the rattling sound that I told them about as loose cam sprocket bolts. A little research yields that this is a common issue for S54s. However, according to the dealer, in order to fix this issue, they need to pull the bumper, rad support, headlights etc out so they can extract the vanos unit and look at it and fix the bolts that have broken / sheered / loosened / whatever the hell is going on in there. They quoted me 15 hours to do the job. Has anyone else had to resolve this issue? Does this sound right to anyone else?

[StickMon]

I had my bolts replaced by a "reputable" indie that told me the same thing, and charged me up the gazoo.
It's bull-hockey.
Here's me pulling my Vanos and replacing the exhaust hub.
All I removed to get the Vanos out was the hood release cable, and I'm not sure that was even necessary.

While you're worrying about the bolts, you might as well worry about the exhaust hub tabs and the plastic upper chain guide.

[XMetal]

OP...Since you're in SoCal, join M3Forum and PM "Kaiv". He has been "wrenching" on my Coupe and X5 for the past couple of years...couldn't recommend him enough. Best of all, if you pay for his gas, he'll do house call!

Here's a running review of his work => http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=352554

[elerner61]

So if I'm going to have my indie check on my Vanos bolts (when he does my inspection II next year), would it really just make best sense to hand him a Dr. Vanos hub and have him replace it outright? These tabs breaking off sound like they are just inevitable.

[StickMon]

If you're going to pull the hub anyways, it's probably worth it, and replace the upper chain guide.
I thought from late 2006 on they came from the factory with the torx bolts.
I don't think you're susceptible to the sheared bolt phenom.

[nekky]

Originally Posted by StickMon

If you're going to pull the hub anyways, it's probably worth it, and replace the upper chain guide.
I thought from late 2006 on they came from the factory with the torx bolts.
I don't think you're susceptible to the sheared bolt phenom.

I had it. I had it bad. Don't believe that guys! Not calling you a liar bud but I have evidence to the contrary. The problem still exists.

[RedDotRacer]

Originally Posted by XMetal

OP...Since you're in SoCal, join M3Forum and PM "Kaiv". He has been "wrenching" on my Coupe and X5 for the past couple of years...couldn't recommend him enough. Best of all, if you pay for his gas, he'll do house call!

Here's a running review of his work => http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=352554

This. He works on my ride as well.

[pokeybritches]

Late 2006 is when the changeover occurred. It's based on engine build date. I've asked the questions a few times - how do you determine engine build date, and what engines have new bolts? I don't want to pay ridiculous labor costs only to find out I have the correct bolts, and I don't like running around feeling like my engine may grenade at any time.

A car built in July 2006 had the old bolts. One built in December 2006 had the new ones. Mine was built in September 2006, right around the changeover. Again, it's based on engine build date and not vehicle build date, so I have no idea if you can even use the car's date to determine bolt type.

[Rated M Roadster]

Originally Posted by nekky

I had it. I had it bad. Don't believe that guys! Not calling you a liar bud but I have evidence to the contrary. The problem still exists.

Same here; 4 out of 6 intake bolts in pieces with 30k miles on the car.

[nekky]

Originally Posted by Rated M Roadster

Same here; 4 out of 6 intake bolts in pieces with 30k miles on the car.

3 out of 6 here at 60k kms (or earlier!!!) so about 35k miles.

[mtrhed]

I plan on "Kaiv" doing a full rebuild on my "VANOS" here soon(95K). Parts ( Beasian Hub and seals)+ about $800 labor. Was going to attempt myself but too much other stuff on my plate. Would never consider a dealer to do the work. If in SoCal, get ahold of "Kaiv".

[XMetal]

Originally Posted by mtrhed

I plan on "Kaiv" doing a full rebuild on my "VANOS" here soon(95K). Parts ( Beasian Hub and seals)+ about $800 labor. Was going to attempt myself but too much other stuff on my plate. Would never consider a dealer to do the work. If in SoCal, get ahold of "Kaiv".

Yeah...I'm planning to have him do the same on my next inspection on the coupe. He just helped me do the Beisan seals & rattle kits on my M54 X5 a month ago.

Are you doing the "rattle kit" as well? How's your bearings? Have you done those yet?

[jdoublehcubed]

Will he come up to San Francisco for a big job like that?

Such a luxury you guys have, being able to get service from Kaiv. I do my own valve adjustments, but I think the Vanos stuff is a little bit too far for me. I could probably figure it out, but the financial risk of trashing an engine is more than I can handle.

[XMetal]

Just your luck...someone is actually organizing a trip for him to wrench in northern cal => http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=472063

[StickMon]

Originally Posted by nekky

I had it. I had it bad. ...

Originally Posted by Rated M Roadster

Same here; 4 out of 6 intake bolts in pieces with 30k miles on the car. ...

So are you saying you had hex heads in an engine with a later build date, or you had torx heads shear off?

[mtrhed]

Originally Posted by XMetal

Yeah...I'm planning to have him do the same on my next inspection on the coupe. He just helped me do the Beisan seals & rattle kits on my M54 X5 a month ago.

Are you doing the "rattle kit" as well? How's your bearings? Have you done those yet?

I do plan on having him do the rattle kit as well as everything else. If my Blackstone reports are a true gauge of engine health I think my bearings are doing well. Engine always gets fully warmed before getting on it and almost all of my miles are open road with not a whole lot of time spent at high rpm, mid-range mostly. Almost no city driving and no lugging.

[nekky]

Originally Posted by StickMon

So are you saying you had hex heads in an engine with a later build date, or you had torx heads shear off?

Pretty sure they're all Torx nowadays but I've only got this crappy picture... Looks Torx to me??

[XMetal]

^Looks like hex on the only bolt head that I could see.

[Beedub]

my car is a feb 06 build.... currently at 11k miles... i think ill take it this summer to get these bolts changed.... mine must have the old type and get used pretty hard tbh... I'm worried about it.

[StickMon]

Originally Posted by XMetal

^Looks like hex on the only bolt head that I could see.

Yep, looks like hex. AFAIK, nobody has reported broken torx, but I haven't done much searching.

Originally Posted by Beedub

my car is a feb 06 build.... currently at 11k miles... i think ill take it this summer to get these bolts changed.... mine must have the old type and get used pretty hard tbh... I'm worried about it.

Mine is Feb '06, too. Mine were broke when I bought the car at 39k.
Exhaust hub went somewhere around 80k.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by StickMon

Yep, looks like hex. AFAIK, nobody has reported broken torx, but I haven't done much searching.



Mine is Feb '06, too. Mine were broke when I bought the car at 39k.
Exhaust hub went somewhere around 80k.

hmmm, do you think id have much issue waiting till 20k?? never heard of these failing sub 20k tbh/....

[StickMon]

I would guess you'd be fine to 20k.
You'll hear the heads rattling around pretty loudly before 3 or more are broke, so just keep an ear out for a lot of ticking.