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03-30-2014, 06:45 PM | #1 |
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Driver side door won't unlock with the key physically.
Hello all,
My left door wouldn't unlock with the key fob for a while, but I was able to physically unlock it with the key. This morning I inserted the key and turned back and forth like 5 times but it wouldn't unlock at all. Then I tried turning the key for a while and finally the door was unlocked. So before I pull out the door card, I am trying to figure out whether the GM5 module or the lock actuator or both of them have gone bad. What do you think? If it is the GM5 module, I'll try to replace the V23084-C2001-A303 TYCO 12V Relay first. |
03-30-2014, 07:08 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2003 Z4 3.0i
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Vermont
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My passenger door does not unlock with either the fob or the console control. Yet, it will lock with the fob....haven't had time to investigate yet.
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04-01-2014, 10:56 PM | #3 |
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Hard to tell from the diagram, and I've never used my key in the door, but I'm willing to bet that it's purely mechanical.
Pull the door card and see if something's worn or misaligned. I doubt it's a module problem.
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04-03-2014, 03:10 PM | #4 |
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I was able to unlock driver door only with the key not with the fob. It locked ok with the key and the FOB. It felt like ...not strong enough to push the knob up but strong enough to go down with the help of gravity. Pass. door was ok.
I was about to take the IV23084-C2001-A303 TYCO 12V Relay route in the GM5 module even if they are known to be quite difficult to remove from the board. Then I decided to splash the interior door with silicone lubricant. From the top of the door between the exterior panel and the window in line with the handle region without removing any panel. It cured my problem completely. It is hard to tell in your case because the door finally unlocked with the key. I was reading about the GM5 relay contact becoming worn to the point where it cannot gives enought voltage to the actuator ? Just a tought Good luck |
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