Eastern Shore Rambling

Rick F. · 11-29-2009, 08:50 PM

The Eastern Shore of Maryland is enormously popular for its ocean beaches. But it's also one of the most historic parts of the State, and I was looking forward to exploring as much of it as I could in 8 hours or so—and to motoring briskly from one site to the next.

My first port of call was Wye Mills. For all the times I'd driven to Ocean City, MD and gone right by Wye Mills, somehow I'd never stopped to look around. A pity, really, since Wye Mills was home to the famous Wye Oak tree—which stood proudly for approximately 460 years (!) before it came crashing down in a thunderstorm in 2002. Here it is in its original glory, the world's largest white oak tree—standing 96 feet tall and covering nearly a third of an acre:

Today, however, only a sapling grown from the original Wye Oak stands where its parent once grew (starting in approximately 1540...)

By comparison, this nearby one-room schoolhouse is a relative newcomer, having been built merely in colonial times.

Also in Wye Mills, one might reasonably expect to find a mill. This one has operated continuously since its construction in 1682, making it the oldest working grist mill in Maryland.

Various worn out (but scenic!) grist mill parts graced the back yard.

As I roamed around the grounds, I had that feeling that I was being watched. Never turn your back on a tree-full of vultures...

Also nearby is the Old Wye Episcopal Church, dating from 1721 (and having been constructed on the foundations of an even older church). In contrast to many of the old churches in Maryland, the doors to this one were locked, and I had to imagine the high-sided "box pews" and hanging pulpit said to wait within.

From Wye Mills, I headed toward the tiny town of Bellevue, on the shores of the Tred Avon River. Along the way, I spotted this historic house, which apparently belonged to James the Forgettable...

...and this once-stately church that has been similarly neglected.

The most notable aspect of Bellevue is the Bellevue-Oxford ferry, which has been operating on and off (mostly on) since the Talbot County Court "pitcht upon Mr. Richard Royston to Keepe a Ferry,” on November 20, 1683. And there I was, 326 years (and one day) later, taking the ferry across the Tred Avon River to Oxford, MD. It cost $10.00 to take a BMW Z4 3.0i across the river. I didn't ask whether an M roadster or coupe would have been more...

Despite the overcast skies and generally gray nature of the day, Oxford looked like it would be fun to explore.

The ferry's Captain and First Mate made short work of docking the craft, and away we went.

One of the first things you see in Oxford as you leave the ferry landing is the Robert Morris Inn (1710). James Michener stayed here frequently while writing Chesapeake in the 1970s. (See, not all Jameses are forgettable...)

Oxford proved to be a delightful town and well worth another visit. There were too many charming houses to count, including "Markland House," which looks quite small in this view but was roughly 5 times as long as it was wide.

The Oxford habor on Town Creek still managed to offer some Fall colors, even this late in the year...

...and St. Paul's Weslyan Church looked impressive, even from the back. (The view from the front was marred by contruction.)

I couldn't resist a return to the harbor, however. Note that the day had improved substantially.

This fellow kept a beady eye on me the whole time I was wandering around. Who knew that Oxford has a team of Guard Gulls?

Not to mention bird condominiums.

One last look at the harbor, and I was off to Easton, MD.

Easton also merits a lengthier return trip. As historic old towns go, this one is among the best.

Everywhere I turned, there was another interesting old house or building. The granite mansion shown here is located on the court house square. It was originally the Sheriff's house and jail; now it appears to be a private residence.

On the outskirts of Easton, down a narrow, tree-lined dirt road, sits the Old Third Haven Meeting House. Build in 1682, it's the oldest documented building in Maryland—and all the more remarkable given its wood-frame construction. William Penn was one of many prominent Quakers to have worshipped here over the years. And, yes, the meeting house is still used except during the winter months.

Elsewhere on the grounds of the meeting house, I ran across this oyster dory. I don't know who Betty Webster was, but I suspect she's not in as good shape as the dory...

By now, regular readers will have noticed that I often take pictures of stately old churches, among other structures. My friend Cathy has asked (more than once) why I never seem to take any pictures of Baptist churches. To make up for lost time, I kept an eye out for any such places of worship—and was rewarded with this spectacular historic Baptist church! (Okay, in fairness, this is the Faith Bible Missionary Anabaptist Church, so it may not exactly meet Cathy's definition. We'll work this out in due course, I suspect!)

From Easton I traveled to Federalsburg, MD (but found nothing of note, unfortunately). Moving on toward Centreville, I made a quick detour to Denton and the Choptank River. There, naturally, I found the Choptank River Yacht Club and this pair of almost-matching (his and hers?) motor yachts.

On the far shore is the Black Dog Boat Works.

I don't know if this old fishing sailboat is a Black Dog restoration project or not. Regardless, it appeared to be sitting patiently onshore for a chance to return to its glory days. (Or was that what I was thinking about myself...? Is there a psychologist in the house?)

As much as I love to discover abandoned, deteriorating, old homes, it's far more fun to see places that have survived and thrived, such as this one outside of Hillsboro on the banks of Tuckahoe Creek.

A little further upstream, in Queen Anne, was a railroad trestle bridge—minus the railroad tracks.

Centreville's attraction for me was its very early settler's houses, two of which—Tucker House and Wright's Chance—still exist and are open to the public (but only occasionally, as it turned out). Wright's Chance, incidentally, was referred to as an "old dwelling" in a 1744 land survey! However, what really captured my attention were a series of neighboring Victorian mansions, each of which was spectacular. For the first of these, in particular, I was tempted to hang around until the owners showed up and then beg them to adopt me...

By now, as usual, the day was drawing on, and I still had a couple more places to visit. Next up was Wye Island. Most of the island is owned by the Maryland State Department of Natural Resources. Their website states that " A major emphasis at Wye Island is to provide suitable habitat for wintering waterfowl populations and other native wildlife." The DNR also allows hunting on the island, so I got a little confused by the various priorities. Either way, it's a beautiful spot, with many hiking trails (they helpfully suggest that you wear a florescent vest during hunting season...) and numerous farm fields. A narrow dirt road is the primary means of access for the island. During my visit, I saw exactly two other cars on the island, plus several dudes wearing camouflage outfits and carrying nasty-looking crossbows.

Did I mention the island's beauty?

Needless to say, such natural beauty could only be improved upon with the addition of a handsome sports car:

As you recall, I'd missed my chance at seeing the historic Wye Oak. Wye Island, however, features a humongous holly tree, which is over 275 years old.

And, yes, it really is a holly.

For perspective on its size, here's a picture of Yr Fthfl Srvnt (at 6'6" tall) in front of the tree.

Small parts of Wye Island are owned by private citizens. On Granary Creek, the wintering waterfowl don't have to content with hunters, but they may have to dodge the occasional sailboat.

After touring the island, I made one final stop on the way home: the small town of Queenstown just before Kent Narrows and the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Although I was mostly looking for more historic houses and scenic sites, I quickly bumped into "Bowlingly." The original land was granted to James Bowling in 1658, and an imposing Georgian home was constructed in 1733. During the War of 1812, the British invaded Queenstown, and Bowlingly sustained considerable damage. Today, it's a private residence—and it's not an easy place to get a look at. This is the best I could do, peering through a hedge...

So, it was time to put up the top (now working again, thanks to replacement of the motor and hydraulics by Russell BMW in Catonsville) and head on home. At 212 miles roundtrip, this was one of my shorter ventures in the Z4, but almost every mile was scenic, historic, or both.

As always, let me know if you'd like a copy of the GPX route file. And damn the approach of Winter—get out there and drive!

Rick F.

BlackSapphireZ · 11-29-2009, 09:06 PM

awesome man....I work on sundays till end of the year, matter a fact, every day until the end of the year so no drives for a while

nice pix as always

Matty C · 11-30-2009, 12:32 AM

Rick,
Another great post. I want to know why it never rains in Maryland or does it only rain Monday through Friday? When I lived in PA I never had that many nice weekends in a row. You've made a lot of nice drives.

rc'Z · 11-30-2009, 10:34 AM

I hope you have winter tires, can't wait to see snow pictures of this quality. Well done!

Jakey · 12-01-2009, 01:06 AM

Nice pics!

apexstrafer · 12-01-2009, 01:50 AM

I love your drive reports. Very interesting stuff and great photography. Keep em coming.

Rick F. · 12-01-2009, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackSapphireZ

awesome man....I work on sundays till end of the year, matter a fact, every day until the end of the year so no drives for a while

nice pix as always

BSZ,

Thanks--but I'm sorry to hear about your work schedule! No drives is a complete bummer. On the other hand, does this mean you don't have to do any holiday shopping??

Rick F.

Rick F. · 12-01-2009, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matty C

Rick,
Another great post. I want to know why it never rains in Maryland or does it only rain Monday through Friday? When I lived in PA I never had that many nice weekends in a row. You've made a lot of nice drives.

Matty,

I don't fully understand my relationship with rain. On my motorcycle trips, it seemed like I got caught in the rain about one trip in five, and it was uncomfortable and potentially dangerous. Now that I have a nice, snug, sure-footed Z4, I almost never get rained on. Go figure...

And both times I've been to the Indy 500, it rained!

Rick F.

Rick F. · 12-01-2009, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rc'Z

I hope you have winter tires, can't wait to see snow pictures of this quality. Well done!

rc'Z,

Well, I fully expect to be out driving right through the Winter--but probably not during active snowstorms (if I can help it!)

How's this for a preview? I rode about a mile on this snow-covered road to get to Big Pool on the C & O Canal. In retrospect, it occurred to me that it wasn't a very good idea...

Rick F.

Rick F. · 12-01-2009, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakey

Nice pics!

Jakey,

Glad you enjoyed 'em!

Rick F.

Rick F. · 12-01-2009, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by apexstrafer

I love your drive reports. Very interesting stuff and great photography. Keep em coming.

'Strafer,

Hey, thanks very much--I'm really glad you enjoy them. And I'll definitely continue to post these reports. The hard part is figuring out where to go next!

Rick F.

teezee · 12-01-2009, 09:27 PM

Thanks for that. I had a work conference down that way once, a Marriott property in Queenstown. Very peaceful countryside.

11-29-2009, 08:50 PM	#1
Rick F. Lieutenant Colonel 948 Rep 1,910 Posts Drives: 2013 BMW 335i cabriolet Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Catonsville, MD iTrader: (0)	Eastern Shore Rambling The Eastern Shore of Maryland is enormously popular for its ocean beaches. But it's also one of the most historic parts of the State, and I was looking forward to exploring as much of it as I could in 8 hours or so—and to motoring briskly from one site to the next. My first port of call was Wye Mills. For all the times I'd driven to Ocean City, MD and gone right by Wye Mills, somehow I'd never stopped to look around. A pity, really, since Wye Mills was home to the famous Wye Oak tree—which stood proudly for approximately 460 years (!) before it came crashing down in a thunderstorm in 2002. Here it is in its original glory, the world's largest white oak tree—standing 96 feet tall and covering nearly a third of an acre: Today, however, only a sapling grown from the original Wye Oak stands where its parent once grew (starting in approximately 1540...) By comparison, this nearby one-room schoolhouse is a relative newcomer, having been built merely in colonial times. Also in Wye Mills, one might reasonably expect to find a mill. This one has operated continuously since its construction in 1682, making it the oldest working grist mill in Maryland. Various worn out (but scenic!) grist mill parts graced the back yard. As I roamed around the grounds, I had that feeling that I was being watched. Never turn your back on a tree-full of vultures... Also nearby is the Old Wye Episcopal Church, dating from 1721 (and having been constructed on the foundations of an even older church). In contrast to many of the old churches in Maryland, the doors to this one were locked, and I had to imagine the high-sided "box pews" and hanging pulpit said to wait within. From Wye Mills, I headed toward the tiny town of Bellevue, on the shores of the Tred Avon River. Along the way, I spotted this historic house, which apparently belonged to James the Forgettable... ...and this once-stately church that has been similarly neglected. The most notable aspect of Bellevue is the Bellevue-Oxford ferry, which has been operating on and off (mostly on) since the Talbot County Court "pitcht upon Mr. Richard Royston to Keepe a Ferry,” on November 20, 1683. And there I was, 326 years (and one day) later, taking the ferry across the Tred Avon River to Oxford, MD. It cost $10.00 to take a BMW Z4 3.0i across the river. I didn't ask whether an M roadster or coupe would have been more... Despite the overcast skies and generally gray nature of the day, Oxford looked like it would be fun to explore. The ferry's Captain and First Mate made short work of docking the craft, and away we went. One of the first things you see in Oxford as you leave the ferry landing is the Robert Morris Inn (1710). James Michener stayed here frequently while writing Chesapeake in the 1970s. (See, not all Jameses are forgettable...) Oxford proved to be a delightful town and well worth another visit. There were too many charming houses to count, including "Markland House," which looks quite small in this view but was roughly 5 times as long as it was wide. The Oxford habor on Town Creek still managed to offer some Fall colors, even this late in the year... ...and St. Paul's Weslyan Church looked impressive, even from the back. (The view from the front was marred by contruction.) I couldn't resist a return to the harbor, however. Note that the day had improved substantially. This fellow kept a beady eye on me the whole time I was wandering around. Who knew that Oxford has a team of Guard Gulls? Not to mention bird condominiums. One last look at the harbor, and I was off to Easton, MD. Easton also merits a lengthier return trip. As historic old towns go, this one is among the best. Everywhere I turned, there was another interesting old house or building. The granite mansion shown here is located on the court house square. It was originally the Sheriff's house and jail; now it appears to be a private residence. On the outskirts of Easton, down a narrow, tree-lined dirt road, sits the Old Third Haven Meeting House. Build in 1682, it's the oldest documented building in Maryland—and all the more remarkable given its wood-frame construction. William Penn was one of many prominent Quakers to have worshipped here over the years. And, yes, the meeting house is still used except during the winter months. Elsewhere on the grounds of the meeting house, I ran across this oyster dory. I don't know who Betty Webster was, but I suspect she's not in as good shape as the dory... By now, regular readers will have noticed that I often take pictures of stately old churches, among other structures. My friend Cathy has asked (more than once) why I never seem to take any pictures of Baptist churches. To make up for lost time, I kept an eye out for any such places of worship—and was rewarded with this spectacular historic Baptist church! (Okay, in fairness, this is the Faith Bible Missionary Anabaptist Church, so it may not exactly meet Cathy's definition. We'll work this out in due course, I suspect!) From Easton I traveled to Federalsburg, MD (but found nothing of note, unfortunately). Moving on toward Centreville, I made a quick detour to Denton and the Choptank River. There, naturally, I found the Choptank River Yacht Club and this pair of almost-matching (his and hers?) motor yachts. On the far shore is the Black Dog Boat Works. I don't know if this old fishing sailboat is a Black Dog restoration project or not. Regardless, it appeared to be sitting patiently onshore for a chance to return to its glory days. (Or was that what I was thinking about myself...? Is there a psychologist in the house?) As much as I love to discover abandoned, deteriorating, old homes, it's far more fun to see places that have survived and thrived, such as this one outside of Hillsboro on the banks of Tuckahoe Creek. A little further upstream, in Queen Anne, was a railroad trestle bridge—minus the railroad tracks. Centreville's attraction for me was its very early settler's houses, two of which—Tucker House and Wright's Chance—still exist and are open to the public (but only occasionally, as it turned out). Wright's Chance, incidentally, was referred to as an "old dwelling" in a 1744 land survey! However, what really captured my attention were a series of neighboring Victorian mansions, each of which was spectacular. For the first of these, in particular, I was tempted to hang around until the owners showed up and then beg them to adopt me... By now, as usual, the day was drawing on, and I still had a couple more places to visit. Next up was Wye Island. Most of the island is owned by the Maryland State Department of Natural Resources. Their website states that " A major emphasis at Wye Island is to provide suitable habitat for wintering waterfowl populations and other native wildlife." The DNR also allows hunting on the island, so I got a little confused by the various priorities. Either way, it's a beautiful spot, with many hiking trails (they helpfully suggest that you wear a florescent vest during hunting season...) and numerous farm fields. A narrow dirt road is the primary means of access for the island. During my visit, I saw exactly two other cars on the island, plus several dudes wearing camouflage outfits and carrying nasty-looking crossbows. Did I mention the island's beauty? Needless to say, such natural beauty could only be improved upon with the addition of a handsome sports car: As you recall, I'd missed my chance at seeing the historic Wye Oak. Wye Island, however, features a humongous holly tree, which is over 275 years old. And, yes, it really is a holly. For perspective on its size, here's a picture of Yr Fthfl Srvnt (at 6'6" tall) in front of the tree. Small parts of Wye Island are owned by private citizens. On Granary Creek, the wintering waterfowl don't have to content with hunters, but they may have to dodge the occasional sailboat. After touring the island, I made one final stop on the way home: the small town of Queenstown just before Kent Narrows and the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Although I was mostly looking for more historic houses and scenic sites, I quickly bumped into "Bowlingly." The original land was granted to James Bowling in 1658, and an imposing Georgian home was constructed in 1733. During the War of 1812, the British invaded Queenstown, and Bowlingly sustained considerable damage. Today, it's a private residence—and it's not an easy place to get a look at. This is the best I could do, peering through a hedge... So, it was time to put up the top (now working again, thanks to replacement of the motor and hydraulics by Russell BMW in Catonsville) and head on home. At 212 miles roundtrip, this was one of my shorter ventures in the Z4, but almost every mile was scenic, historic, or both. As always, let me know if you'd like a copy of the GPX route file. And damn the approach of Winter—get out there and drive! Rick F. Last edited by Rick F.; 09-22-2015 at 01:11 PM..
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11-29-2009, 09:06 PM	#2
BlackSapphireZ Major 97 Rep 1,191 Posts Drives: 22 GLE 53 Coupe Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Ladson, SC iTrader: (0)	awesome man....I work on sundays till end of the year, matter a fact, every day until the end of the year so no drives for a while nice pix as always __________________ 2022 GLE 53 Coupe
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11-30-2009, 12:32 AM	#3
Matty C First Lieutenant 20 Rep 324 Posts Drives: 2007 Z4 M Roadster, 2006 M3 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bodensee iTrader: (0)	Rick, Another great post. I want to know why it never rains in Maryland or does it only rain Monday through Friday? When I lived in PA I never had that many nice weekends in a row. You've made a lot of nice drives. __________________ 2007 Black Sapphire Z4 //M Roadster, Hamann Front End, Hamann Rear Diffuser, Hamann 19 Inch Anniversary Wheels, Eisenmann Race Exhaust, Group M Intake, RPI Ram Air, CDV Delete 2006 E46 M3, 2004 Jeep Rubicon, 93 Golf VR6
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11-30-2009, 10:34 AM	#4
rc'Z Captain 13 Rep 821 Posts Drives: 2009 335i Convertible Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Virginia iTrader: (0)	I hope you have winter tires, can't wait to see snow pictures of this quality. Well done!
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12-01-2009, 01:06 AM	#5
Jakey Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2005 3.0i Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Canada iTrader: (0)	Nice pics! __________________ The laws of physics cannot be repealed even with DSC. - Z4 Owner's Manual
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12-01-2009, 01:50 AM	#6
apexstrafer First Lieutenant 14 Rep 385 Posts Drives: Z4 M Coupe Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Los Angeles, CA iTrader: (0)	I love your drive reports. Very interesting stuff and great photography. Keep em coming. __________________
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12-01-2009, 09:27 PM	#12
teezee Freude am Fahren 35 Rep 383 Posts Drives: E89 Z4, E46 325iT Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Here,There and Everywhere iTrader: (0)	Thanks for that. I had a work conference down that way once, a Marriott property in Queenstown. Very peaceful countryside.
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