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03-14-2017, 02:40 PM | #23 |
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Ordered all the parts yesterday from besian and the rest from ECS, every little nut, bolt, and gasket, TPS as well. Both will arrive tomorrow, excellent people to deal with. While I'm at it I'm going to do a full coolant system over haul, minus a radiator. Why do the instructions say to use a gasket in a tube for the vanos instead of a new OEM metal gasket? I ordered one of those too just in case.
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03-14-2017, 05:32 PM | #24 |
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Best of luck to those undergoing it solo. Talked to my preferred indy, they are super familiar with the Besian and Dr. Vanos offerings and said neither have proven more robust than OEM parts, with the exception of the machined Dr. Vanos hub bit.
Will be ordering the Besian bits and Dr. Vanos hub when I schedule the service later this year |
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03-14-2017, 06:43 PM | #25 | |
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03-14-2017, 06:48 PM | #26 |
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To clarify, they didn't say the aftermarket bits were inferior - just that they had not proven to be any more reliable than OEM. The shop also said they routinely install both the Dr. Vanos and Besain bits when requested
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03-14-2017, 09:51 PM | #27 |
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03-14-2017, 10:23 PM | #28 |
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Yeah, OEM quality is great
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03-15-2017, 10:58 AM | #29 | |
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So far I have only been installing non-OEM bits that have proven themselves to stand the test of time and be a better (or equivalent + cheaper) solution to OEM. |
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03-15-2017, 11:49 AM | #30 |
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Right, the dr vanos hub is better than OEM. My point is that it's weird for your shop to say that nothing has been proven to be more reliable than OEM, when the whole reason for these repairs is that the OEM part fails consistently (google 'S54 hub failure' and be amazed). I don't believe there have been any tab failures of the current versions of dr vanos hubs or the beisan pump disks. Get a hub if yours is already broken (it's not, I know), otherwise you can save $700 by getting just the pump disk instead.
Long post by Raj but worth reading
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03-15-2017, 06:28 PM | #31 | |
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Thanks for the link! Bundling the Vanos refresh with Inspection II - bracing myself for the bill. |
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03-15-2017, 10:07 PM | #32 |
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Good grief guys this vanos repair is going just swell lol. Pre facelift models suck to do this repair on. Had to do the three thread removal on the lower passenger side bolt and pry slightly on the engine to finally get the vanos out. Luckily my father is a retired tool/die maker, metallurgy genius has been making me things as I go to help it along. It's all out and actually wasn't bad off, he said the clearance on the exhaust side was failing but intake side was still okay. No rattle kit needed right now so I'll just save that for a later date. Some people say to removal the motor mounts and lower the engine to get it clear but according to my dad it's okay to cut the bolt 3 threads as many others have.
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03-16-2017, 12:18 AM | #33 |
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This is one point where the ///M is easier. Once everything's unscrewed, Vanos pops right out. No real clearance issue.
I think the non-M is mounted on studs, whereas the ///M is held on by bolts? Something to note, actually, for ///M owners that aren't doing their own Vanos R+R. When I first bought my car, it came with the standard broken Vanos/camshaft bolts. I didn't know anything about the car yet, so I took it to an indie to do the repair. He said it would take an extra day, and extra cost for replacement coolant, because he had to remove the whole nose of the car, including the radiator, to remove the Vanos. Judging from the bolts he forgot to do up, I think he did remove the whole nose. Twice, in fact, because the first time I picked it up the cam timing was so far off it went into limp mode. So if you take your ///M in for Vanos R+R, and your mechanic says he has to remove the nose or jack up the engine, find another mechanic.
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Last edited by StickMon; 03-16-2017 at 12:26 AM.. |
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03-16-2017, 11:22 AM | #34 |
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They pulled my complete nose, but that was for the cam shafts, the easy access for the vanos was an added bonus at the same time. Car runs like a dream..
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03-16-2017, 11:31 AM | #35 | |
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Correct, the 2.5 has nuts with studs unlike the M. The bottom left bolt is the only trouble maker as far as that goes. Having 90 degree bent needle nose pliers is also a must to get the seal caps off. Ours weren't quite right so we heated with a torch and re worked them to be perfect. |
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03-18-2017, 10:53 AM | #36 |
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Hey guys. I've been having some loss of power when shifting from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd. It's like a second delay like all fuel has been cut. It happens more under hard acceleration than under easy acceleration. I'm also getting more noise from my vanos than in the past. I checked to see if there were any codes, and I have a P1633 code, Throttle Valve Adaptation. I was already thinking it is about time for a coil to go out and that my throttle position sensors are probably due to be replaced.
But, it could be vanos, I suppose. I need to get it upgraded soon regardless. Quick question. If you replace the entire vanos with a rebuilt unit, do you still require all of the special tools, the electronic switch, the air pressure, etc.? Salty
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03-18-2017, 04:23 PM | #37 | |
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Not sure on the M but honestly it was a pretty easy job, I would save the money and just get the seals. I didn't need anything real special to do the job. Mind you this is on the 2.5. No air tools needed if that's what you mean... if you are only doing the seals. Mine wound up not needing the rattle kit and that's the one you need an impact for. |
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03-19-2017, 12:10 PM | #38 | |
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03-20-2017, 04:07 AM | #39 |
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I also did all the Biesan parts, except for the solenoid coil pack, in both my MZ3 and MZ4 S54s.
I had Randy Forbes install all of it, he was doing rod bearings at the same time anyway. I picked Biesan primarily because of reputation, but also because his online guides were so thorough. And, Raj is very quick and responsive. Great service from both vendors.
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03-20-2017, 01:19 PM | #40 | |
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03-20-2017, 06:55 PM | #41 | |
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You only have to worry about timing if you take the bolts out of the sprocket hub, which you'll obviously have to do if you're doing a cryo treated or TurboToy hub, or if you're replacing the chain tensioner. The air adapter and switch box is only useful for extending and retracting the pistons with the Vanos loose. Some say ... that you can move them in and out by removing the caps. I think the only "special" thing you need for just Vanos R&R is long bolts for the top 2 holes so you can slide it back while still having it supported. M6x60.
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Last edited by StickMon; 03-20-2017 at 11:37 PM.. |
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