Z4 top down wont work

[FNFZ4]

My Z4 canopy wont work. I have read somewhere that its the motor when the drain gets log it shorts the motor.

I was wondering how much did it cost to fix? I am located in SOCAL.

[yousefnjr]

Youre right, thats a common issue on these cars. I paid 300-400 or so for an OEM replacement from Tischer and installed it myself. There are some great instructions online for doing this, I used Shipkillers guide and it was very helpful, http://www.shipkiller.com/How%20to%2...20BMW%20Z4.pdf

It took me around 5 hours but wasn't particularly challenging. I think doing it again I could have it off within an hour. The most stressful part is protecting your paint, my old z4 had a pretty good scratch from lifting the roof out.

Take LOTS of pictures of how the pump is connected to the soft top, putting it back together was more of a pain than I was expecting. The stupid thing is held on by tie-wraps (at least mine was) and it had a scary amount of play.

[yousefnjr]

I should say, before taking anything apart, make sure your luggage cover is down. The top wont lower if that thing is raised.

[FNFZ4]

Yeah that happened to me already. I am pretty sure its the motor. wow. 300-400. do you have the part number?

[rking117]

one thing i always did was used compressed air to try to make sure the drain hole was free of debris. I went under the wheel well and found the drain and piped air into it. if water came out I would go a little further to make sure there wasnt leaves or such in there. If no water came out i knew I was good. I would certainly try that first. IF water comes out then you will know that you are right before spending hundreds to replace the motor.

[mike519]

You should also replace the motor housing and may need the wiring harness as well. Also order the hydraulic service kit.

You can find all p/n on realoem.com

[beta]

Originally Posted by FNFZ4

Yeah that happened to me already. I am pretty sure its the motor. wow. 300-400. do you have the part number?

What are the symptoms? You really want to rule out trunk switch before diving into it. My last switch the little arm popped out so even with the shelf down it still didn't work.

[Shipkiller]

Very few individuals have needed to replace the wiring harness.

At a minimum you need the motor/pump. You can reuse the motor housing but it will take several days to get the 'Sound Insulation' that is internal to the motor housing to dry out. In my opinion, it is worth the time and effort to just replace the motor housing.

The pump comes pre-filled with hydraulic oil and it is self bleeding. As far as I know, the hydraulic repair kit just contains new O-rings (not needed for the pump replacement) and banjo washers.

http://www.shipkiller.com/Softtop_Main.html


.

[mike519]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

Very few individuals have needed to replace the wiring harness.

At a minimum you need the motor/pump. You can reuse the motor housing but it will take several days to get the 'Sound Insulation' that is internal to the motor housing to dry out. In my opinion, it is worth the time and effort to just replace the motor housing.

The pump comes pre-filled with hydraulic oil and it is self bleeding. As far as I know, the hydraulic repair kit just contains new O-rings (not needed for the pump replacement) and banjo washers.

http://www.shipkiller.com/Softtop_Main.html


.

I had to replace the harness but yes, not everyone does. I was told the new housing was more water resistant, no?

The hydraulic repair kit wasn't much so I picked it up anyway.

[Shipkiller]

Of all the email I get about this, I have only heard of two persons that had to replace thier wiring harness.....

The new motor housing is the same as the old one. No change. What the new repair procedures say is to use more tape to seal the top and bottom halves. I say (and that's what I did) is to use RTV to seal the housing.

[herk_driver]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

Of all the email I get about this, I have only heard of two persons that had to replace thier wiring harness.....

The new motor housing is the same as the old one. No change. What the new repair procedures say is to use more tape to seal the top and bottom halves. I say (and that's what I did) is to use RTV to seal the housing.

I'm in the middle of following your procedures Shipkiller... I'm stuck with getting the soft top back in place.

I've "Ops Checked" the new motor and it raises fine. However, It will now lower now. I think there might be a micro switch that needs to engage to complete the circuit. My delima now is to try and figure out how to worm myself into the trunk and guide the hoop onto the guide clips then seat the wx stripping.

Shipkiller, please feel free to PM me if I'm on the right track or not. Thanks again for that useful guide. (I caulked the H@LL out of my hydraulic container too)

[herk_driver]

Originally Posted by FNFZ4

My Z4 canopy wont work. I have read somewhere that its the motor when the drain gets log it shorts the motor.

I was wondering how much did it cost to fix? I am located in SOCAL.

I'm betting that it's your hydraulic unit. Check out shipkiller.com. He goes through the steps pretty thoroughly. I've gotten my parts from Tomkinson BMW. (www.tomkinsonbmw.com)

Best of luck

[Shipkiller]

There are four Hall-effect switches located on the frame of the softtop.

Make SURE you have the pump wired correctly and all the cables are connected to the softtop module.