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      09-08-2014, 05:44 PM   #45
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If you're tight on cash, the Autozone one should work. I went with OEM to avoid the labor of doing it twice (supercharger). My time is pretty limited these days, but if you've got time to do it yourself and labor is essentially free, go for it.
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      09-08-2014, 06:24 PM   #46
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Totally understand your situation. Pokey thanks again for the advice BUT I went ahead and found a Valeo BRAND NEW OEM alternator for $375, free shipping doing the install myself (with the help I received from StickMon)so no biggie there. Alternators for the Z4M should all be the same for the '06, '07, and '08 right?
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      09-08-2014, 10:24 PM   #47
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Should be identical.
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      09-09-2014, 05:24 AM   #48
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According to RealOEM the p/n: 12317837691 applies to all E85/E86 ///M's.
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      09-09-2014, 12:54 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
According to RealOEM the p/n: 12317837691 applies to all E85/E86 ///M's.

Thank you both for confirming this. I placed the order yesterday for an OEM new Valeo alternator for $375.24 at partsgeek.com. They only had one in stock and well I took it
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      09-16-2014, 01:33 PM   #50
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I installed the alternator as soon as I received it on Wednesday last week. I haven't "raced" or done heavy spirited driving, but the few times I have somewhat stepped on the gas, I don't feel the car the same. It doesn't feel as responsive as it used to. I did floor it today from 5MPH. Typically, DSC will flicker but not today, I didn't feel the car fishtail a bit. When I caught 2nd gear, it didn't feel as strong. Any ideas?
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      09-16-2014, 02:40 PM   #51
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Hit the dyno.
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      09-16-2014, 09:36 PM   #52
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That's an idea. The closest one to my location is about 3 hours away. I was thinking maybe I didn't hook up the air box tight enough and there's an air leak. Even if that was the case, I would think that a CEL would come up
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      09-17-2014, 11:10 AM   #53
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http://www.dynojet.com/DynoCenters/D...a_distance=250
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      09-18-2014, 12:02 AM   #54
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Any chance you can drive with a voltmeter on it?
See if the voltage drops when you floor it.
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      09-18-2014, 03:25 PM   #55
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Wow pokey thanks a lot!! I'll dyno it as soon as I get paid!

I don't have one but can get one I suppose and can try that
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      10-06-2014, 09:47 AM   #56
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I have a 2008 Z4MC with 40,000 miles on it I had the same warning signs that my alternator / voltage regulator was not working. I pulled the alternator and verified that indeed it was a Valeo brand alternator.

I purchased the following part from americanenginesco.com

http://www.americanenginesco.com/bmw...tor-valeo-oem/


1 x BMW 3 Series Z4 3.2L Alternator Voltage Regulator Valeo OEM

Price:$67.85
SKU:9703
Brand:Valeo

I replaced the voltage regulator on my alternator and everything is now back to normal. Took a total 3 hours to remove the alternator, replace the voltage regulator and reinstall on car (in my driveway).

I hope this helps.
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Last edited by Frank851; 10-06-2014 at 09:48 AM.. Reason: typos
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      10-06-2014, 10:35 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank851 View Post
I have a 2008 Z4MC with 40,000 miles on it I had the same warning signs that my alternator / voltage regulator was not working. I pulled the alternator and verified that indeed it was a Valeo brand alternator.

I purchased the following part from americanenginesco.com

http://www.americanenginesco.com/bmw...tor-valeo-oem/


1 x BMW 3 Series Z4 3.2L Alternator Voltage Regulator Valeo OEM

Price:$67.85
SKU:9703
Brand:Valeo

I replaced the voltage regulator on my alternator and everything is now back to normal. Took a total 3 hours to remove the alternator, replace the voltage regulator and reinstall on car (in my driveway).

I hope this helps.


Here are some other photos of the alternator with dust shield on. Then with the dust shield removed. And finally, you can see some of the discoloration on the voltage regulator.

The brushes that contact the alternator armature come with the new voltage regulator. After you bolt the new regulator in place you then have to snap the contact cover into place and you are good to go.

In my case there was alot of black soot by the contacts after I took the old voltage regulator off. I blew this soot out with compressed air prior to putting the new voltage regulator in place.

The contacts under the contact cap (center of voltage regulator) are spring loaded. Do not snap the contact cap into place until you have bolted the new voltage regulator in place.
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      10-14-2014, 04:08 PM   #58
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replace

I just had this happen also, I have a new alternator being shipped to Texas from California. The shop showed my original alternator was pushing 17+ amps through the electrical and we all know BMW's don't like that many amps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
From my experience, when the dash lights illuminate erratically on the Z4 (or at least the M), it's an indication of an over- or under-voltage situation. I've replaced the battery and cabling, and had a shop go through everything except the alternator. The situation doesn't happen all the time, so I'm suspecting it's the voltage regulator. I'm open for other thoughts, as I hadn't encountered significant electrical problems until now.

I'm also interested to hear who has replaced a voltage regulator, only to come back a short time later to do the whole alternator. The car has 115k miles, and I'm wondering about the life expectancy of the rest of the components, and trying to do a risk analysis of only doing the voltage regulator.
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      10-16-2014, 10:14 AM   #59
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An update to my last post. My local CarQuest supplier ordered me an original Valeo unit for $195, a core charge of $103 refunded after you return the old alternator. Another upside is it is the last one I have to buy. A full lifetime warranty, no questions asked.
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      04-12-2017, 10:15 AM   #60
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Did you guys experience the brake lights and the music and corner lights cut in and out?
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      04-17-2017, 01:31 PM   #61
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I'm having issues starting my car again, however, this time I'm not having the dash lights come on while driving. My car is pretty much dying every night while I sleep so every morning I have to jump start it. I purchased the battery back in November 2016, and the alternator (based on this thread) was replaced in September 2014. In my opinion, both should still be running fine. I don't know what to do in this case. I took my car to several Autozones and O'Reilys and they all said my battery is a little low. When they take it to the back to charge it, it comes up as a complete full charge right away so they end up giving it right back. Any suggestions?
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      04-17-2017, 02:34 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries View Post
I'm having issues starting my car again, however, this time I'm not having the dash lights come on while driving. My car is pretty much dying every night while I sleep so every morning I have to jump start it. I purchased the battery back in November 2016, and the alternator (based on this thread) was replaced in September 2014. In my opinion, both should still be running fine. I don't know what to do in this case. I took my car to several Autozones and O'Reilys and they all said my battery is a little low. When they take it to the back to charge it, it comes up as a complete full charge right away so they end up giving it right back. Any suggestions?
you've got a bad component or control module somewhere that's draining the power. i haven't had this issue on my z4, but I've seen it on other cars and you've described the issue exactly. no apparent battery/alternator issues but a frequent dead battery. on my audi tt I had a bad chip in the dashboard that was causing the issue, and I had another car where it was the radio head unit. i'm not sure if there are any components on the z4 known to commonly fail in this way, maybe someone will chime in.

one way to diagnose the issue is to start disconnecting individuals modules and see if the issue goes away. since your battery is dying overnight, you've got a pretty large current draw so once you stumble on to the right component there should be no question that you've got it. i would start with the radio and amplifier. you can probably disconnect those by pulling a fuse. you can also go through and pull other fuses one at a time to try to find the right module.

you can try googling "how to find current leakage in a car" for some tips.
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      04-17-2017, 03:55 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdoublehcubed View Post
you've got a bad component or control module somewhere that's draining the power. i haven't had this issue on my z4, but I've seen it on other cars and you've described the issue exactly. no apparent battery/alternator issues but a frequent dead battery. on my audi tt I had a bad chip in the dashboard that was causing the issue, and I had another car where it was the radio head unit. i'm not sure if there are any components on the z4 known to commonly fail in this way, maybe someone will chime in.

one way to diagnose the issue is to start disconnecting individuals modules and see if the issue goes away. since your battery is dying overnight, you've got a pretty large current draw so once you stumble on to the right component there should be no question that you've got it. i would start with the radio and amplifier. you can probably disconnect those by pulling a fuse. you can also go through and pull other fuses one at a time to try to find the right module.

you can try googling "how to find current leakage in a car" for some tips.
Thanks for the response jdoublehcubed. I haven't done anything to my car but TWO things; I had a buddy of mine (that happens to have a Z4MR as well) code several things in my car using his laptop. Also, I swapped the ashtray in the Z4 for the AUX tray. Ever since these 2 updates, my car's been dying. If I pull the fuse, how long do I have to have it pulled out for? Overnight to determine if my car wakes up "dead"?
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      04-17-2017, 06:22 PM   #64
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So I took the 328i to work today. I get home and try to start the Z4 but it's completely dead again. I jump start the car and now my AC isn't blowing any air whatsoever
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      04-18-2017, 11:32 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries View Post
Thanks for the response jdoublehcubed. I haven't done anything to my car but TWO things; I had a buddy of mine (that happens to have a Z4MR as well) code several things in my car using his laptop. Also, I swapped the ashtray in the Z4 for the AUX tray. Ever since these 2 updates, my car's been dying. If I pull the fuse, how long do I have to have it pulled out for? Overnight to determine if my car wakes up "dead"?
No problem.

I suppose its always possible to make a mistake while coding and get weird behavior, but I think its really unlikely that that would cause this issue. Aux ashtray also seems unlikely, you'd know right away if you plugged it in wrong because it wouldn't work at all.

Since it sounds like your car is dying in around 12 hours, I'd pull a fuse, wait 12 hours and then check. If its dead, charge it up and move on to the next fuse.

No AC could mean that its a subfuse panel, or maybe that a components that shares a fuse or control circuit with the AC is to blame, or maybe that its the climate control module. On my TT there was a subfuse panel under the hood that melted, and it took out my AC and radiator fan at the same time.
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      04-18-2017, 12:08 PM   #66
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Quote:
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So I took the 328i to work today. I get home and try to start the Z4 but it's completely dead again. I jump start the car and now my AC isn't blowing any air whatsoever
Maybe transport mode
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