engine bolts torque

boydgti · 05-02-2011, 06:20 PM

Im replaceing the bolts with the 10.9 grade bolts with nord locks. What torque should I be using since the bolts are a better quality thaxs

inTgr8r · 05-02-2011, 07:15 PM

I asked the same thing on bimmerfest, check this thread.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...r+mount&page=2

beta · 05-02-2011, 08:09 PM

Can you post pics and info when you do this? Is this something that can be DIYd or do you need a lift, engine hoist or other? I'm really interested in doing this mod as preventive maintenance.

boydgti · 05-02-2011, 09:23 PM

No real answer though when using nord locks. I did them at 22n/m for now until I get a better answer and before I put everthing back together.

inTgr8r · 05-02-2011, 09:48 PM

Did you use a thread lube?
IIRC it is recommended by nord lock.

boydgti · 05-02-2011, 09:59 PM

I just used a 5 in 1 oil, just a small bit. I plan on using a paint marker to make sure nothing moves after torquing

007MCoupe · 05-03-2011, 09:00 AM

wow. i knew inspecting wouldn't be easy but reading through, it sounds like you really have know what you're looking for. I'm out of warranty (as of May 1...BOO) but I'd like to at least CHECK my bolts/mounts since I hear a clattering/clunking from the right side of the motor over bumps.

I know this isn't a torque question, but I don't want to make a whole new thread just about mounts. What would I be looking for when I am able to look for them?

boydgti · 05-07-2011, 04:21 PM

I finished it finally and used thread lube instead of 5 in 1 oil. I just wanted to do that job once. Got all the bolts except for 1 on the drivers side. I also checked the torque on the rear sway bar while i had it up there and it was all good. It good peace of mind too complete this job since im planning on keeping the car, maybe forever

beta · 05-09-2011, 01:03 AM

+1 on keeping the car forever

Finally got TIS running to see how to do this. Does one need the 00 0 200 cross member special tools to secure the engine, or can you just do one bolt at a time?

boydgti · 05-09-2011, 06:05 AM

The car needs to be up on jackstands with the plastic belly pan under the radiator removed and also the aluminum belly pan under the engine removed. Rather than separate the two pieces of the aluminum belly pan, just leave them attached together and remove as a unit. Both front wheels should also be off the car.

Access to the passenger side is easier than the drivers side. The front two passenger side bolts are the longer ones. To get to them, you must undo and remove the fastening bolt that holds the VANOS accumulator bracket around the accumulator. Also it will be easier if you remove the attachment of the ground wire at the engine just next to the VANOS accumulator. After doing this, you can just push the VANOS accumulator up and out of the way, it is on a flexible hose. You now have fairly easy access to the two front engine mount bolts on the passenger side. The two rear bolts will also be fairly easy to get to from underneath the car with the aluminum pan removed. My car is too low to do this so I just torqued it up when it was on the jack stands, hope this helps. I got this info from another member and found it very usefull in doing this.

On the driver's side, the two rear bolts are easier than the front. There is an electrical connector in front of the upper bolt that blocks access; look at this carefully so you can see how it detaches and then remove the electrical connector to get access to the bolt. The drivers side bolts must be worked on from above. The lower rear bolt is pretty easy but the upper rear bolt is not visible and you have to work by feel - you cannot actually see what you are doing. Remember to replace the electrical connector when finished.

The front drivers side bolts are the most difficult. I was able to gain access by removing the complete air filter box (upper and lower sections) along with the curved plastic pipe that attaches to the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold itself. It also helps to remove the bolts holding the power steering fluid reservoir so that it can be pushed slightly out of the way. After removing these parts, you can use a very long extension and a socket to loosen the engine mount bolts. A magnet on a long wand will hep with pulling the bolts out, because you may not be able to get your fingers in there. Similarly, you can use the magnet wand to carefully place the new bolts in the empty hole, and then use your long extension and socket to tighten the bolts. Then reassemble and you are done.

Since the aluminum belly pan is a suspension reinforcement, I would have the car with the weight on the tires so the chassis will be under the correct stress before tightening the holding bolts for the aluminum pan.

beta · 05-09-2011, 12:28 PM

Great info, thanks for taking the time to write it up, really appreciate it. Have the bolts on order

boydgti · 05-09-2011, 06:19 PM

I stole it from another member lol. I torque the aluminum belly pan while on the jack stands because car is to low.

05-02-2011, 06:20 PM	#1
boydgti First Lieutenant 10 Rep 328 Posts Drives: 2007 z4m Join Date: May 2010 Location: calgary alberta iTrader: (0)	engine bolts torque Im replaceing the bolts with the 10.9 grade bolts with nord locks. What torque should I be using since the bolts are a better quality thaxs
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05-02-2011, 07:15 PM	#2
inTgr8r Lieutenant General 2432 Rep 11,667 Posts Drives: M2 Comp Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Toronto iTrader: (10)	I asked the same thing on bimmerfest, check this thread. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...r+mount&page=2 __________________ '21 M2C Hockenheim Silver '18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold) '13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold) '07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold)
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05-02-2011, 08:09 PM	#3
beta Lieutenant Colonel 80 Rep 1,663 Posts Drives: 2006 M Roadster Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: CA iTrader: (2)	Can you post pics and info when you do this? Is this something that can be DIYd or do you need a lift, engine hoist or other? I'm really interested in doing this mod as preventive maintenance. __________________ modification journal
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-02-2011, 09:23 PM	#4
boydgti First Lieutenant 10 Rep 328 Posts Drives: 2007 z4m Join Date: May 2010 Location: calgary alberta iTrader: (0)	No real answer though when using nord locks. I did them at 22n/m for now until I get a better answer and before I put everthing back together.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-02-2011, 09:48 PM	#5
inTgr8r Lieutenant General 2432 Rep 11,667 Posts Drives: M2 Comp Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Toronto iTrader: (10)	Did you use a thread lube? IIRC it is recommended by nord lock. __________________ '21 M2C Hockenheim Silver '18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold) '13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold) '07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold)
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-02-2011, 09:59 PM	#6
boydgti First Lieutenant 10 Rep 328 Posts Drives: 2007 z4m Join Date: May 2010 Location: calgary alberta iTrader: (0)	I just used a 5 in 1 oil, just a small bit. I plan on using a paint marker to make sure nothing moves after torquing
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-03-2011, 09:00 AM	#7
007MCoupe Lieutenant Colonel 94 Rep 1,546 Posts Drives: '18 Sakhir M3 ZCP Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: ( ///// ) iTrader: (5)	wow. i knew inspecting wouldn't be easy but reading through, it sounds like you really have know what you're looking for. I'm out of warranty (as of May 1...BOO) but I'd like to at least CHECK my bolts/mounts since I hear a clattering/clunking from the right side of the motor over bumps. I know this isn't a torque question, but I don't want to make a whole new thread just about mounts. What would I be looking for when I am able to look for them? __________________ Become a ///Member!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-07-2011, 04:21 PM	#8
boydgti First Lieutenant 10 Rep 328 Posts Drives: 2007 z4m Join Date: May 2010 Location: calgary alberta iTrader: (0)	I finished it finally and used thread lube instead of 5 in 1 oil. I just wanted to do that job once. Got all the bolts except for 1 on the drivers side. I also checked the torque on the rear sway bar while i had it up there and it was all good. It good peace of mind too complete this job since im planning on keeping the car, maybe forever
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-09-2011, 01:03 AM	#9
beta Lieutenant Colonel 80 Rep 1,663 Posts Drives: 2006 M Roadster Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: CA iTrader: (2)	+1 on keeping the car forever Finally got TIS running to see how to do this. Does one need the 00 0 200 cross member special tools to secure the engine, or can you just do one bolt at a time? __________________ modification journal
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-09-2011, 06:05 AM	#10
boydgti First Lieutenant 10 Rep 328 Posts Drives: 2007 z4m Join Date: May 2010 Location: calgary alberta iTrader: (0)	The car needs to be up on jackstands with the plastic belly pan under the radiator removed and also the aluminum belly pan under the engine removed. Rather than separate the two pieces of the aluminum belly pan, just leave them attached together and remove as a unit. Both front wheels should also be off the car. Access to the passenger side is easier than the drivers side. The front two passenger side bolts are the longer ones. To get to them, you must undo and remove the fastening bolt that holds the VANOS accumulator bracket around the accumulator. Also it will be easier if you remove the attachment of the ground wire at the engine just next to the VANOS accumulator. After doing this, you can just push the VANOS accumulator up and out of the way, it is on a flexible hose. You now have fairly easy access to the two front engine mount bolts on the passenger side. The two rear bolts will also be fairly easy to get to from underneath the car with the aluminum pan removed. My car is too low to do this so I just torqued it up when it was on the jack stands, hope this helps. I got this info from another member and found it very usefull in doing this. On the driver's side, the two rear bolts are easier than the front. There is an electrical connector in front of the upper bolt that blocks access; look at this carefully so you can see how it detaches and then remove the electrical connector to get access to the bolt. The drivers side bolts must be worked on from above. The lower rear bolt is pretty easy but the upper rear bolt is not visible and you have to work by feel - you cannot actually see what you are doing. Remember to replace the electrical connector when finished. The front drivers side bolts are the most difficult. I was able to gain access by removing the complete air filter box (upper and lower sections) along with the curved plastic pipe that attaches to the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold itself. It also helps to remove the bolts holding the power steering fluid reservoir so that it can be pushed slightly out of the way. After removing these parts, you can use a very long extension and a socket to loosen the engine mount bolts. A magnet on a long wand will hep with pulling the bolts out, because you may not be able to get your fingers in there. Similarly, you can use the magnet wand to carefully place the new bolts in the empty hole, and then use your long extension and socket to tighten the bolts. Then reassemble and you are done. Since the aluminum belly pan is a suspension reinforcement, I would have the car with the weight on the tires so the chassis will be under the correct stress before tightening the holding bolts for the aluminum pan.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-09-2011, 12:28 PM	#11
beta Lieutenant Colonel 80 Rep 1,663 Posts Drives: 2006 M Roadster Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: CA iTrader: (2)	Great info, thanks for taking the time to write it up, really appreciate it. Have the bolts on order __________________ modification journal
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-09-2011, 06:19 PM	#12
boydgti First Lieutenant 10 Rep 328 Posts Drives: 2007 z4m Join Date: May 2010 Location: calgary alberta iTrader: (0)	I stole it from another member lol. I torque the aluminum belly pan while on the jack stands because car is to low.
	Appreciate 0 Quote