My first BMW

[Juice84]

Originally Posted by pokeybritches

I'd go for the auto-dimming one. I had the same thing happen with my '03. Our driving position is low to the ground, so bright headlights behind us are much more blinding. You'll also want the mirrors to look symmetrical.

The biggest area you can save on maintenance is in labor costs. At a dealership a $60 part might require $400 of labor to replace. The last time I had anything done at the dealership they charged $95/hour for labor, and that was several years ago. Some charge well over $120/hr. An independent BMW-certified mechanic can do the work for less than $50/hr (mine does it for $30/hr). While BMW parts typically are more expensive, labor is the real killer.

Congrats on your new car! If it's a 2.5i, the stock wheels are 16" (non-sport) or 17" (sport package... if you have it you'll see a little button labeled "sport" to the left of the shifter). I have 18's on my 3.0i, and actually prefer the extra sidewall of 17's. If you choose to "upgrade" your wheels, don't go any higher than 18's. I've already busted 2 wheels from lack of sidewall (potholes), but it all depends on how your roads are where you live.

Great price on labor, I wish I had indys around here that charged that. We dont have a lot of options here in KY.

[jnkhan82]

Originally Posted by pokeybritches

I'd go for the auto-dimming one. I had the same thing happen with my '03. Our driving position is low to the ground, so bright headlights behind us are much more blinding. You'll also want the mirrors to look symmetrical.

The biggest area you can save on maintenance is in labor costs. At a dealership a $60 part might require $400 of labor to replace. The last time I had anything done at the dealership they charged $95/hour for labor, and that was several years ago. Some charge well over $120/hr. An independent BMW-certified mechanic can do the work for less than $50/hr (mine does it for $30/hr). While BMW parts typically are more expensive, labor is the real killer.

Congrats on your new car! If it's a 2.5i, the stock wheels are 16" (non-sport) or 17" (sport package... if you have it you'll see a little button labeled "sport" to the left of the shifter). I have 18's on my 3.0i, and actually prefer the extra sidewall of 17's. If you choose to "upgrade" your wheels, don't go any higher than 18's. I've already busted 2 wheels from lack of sidewall (potholes), but it all depends on how your roads are where you live.

Ah nice, yeah it has a sport's button. 17in is coo. Be cool if could get something similar to the m6 stock rims.http://www.vivagoal.com/images/wallpapers/m6-15.jpg

Looks classy and aggressive. I'll def keep the 18in in mind, nyc roads are so so. This is just a weekend car for me, so I barely drive. My company pays for my public transportation, so I take the train everyday. NYC parking in a lot is like $30bucks a day, lol same as your mechanic, but just to watch the car. Street parking is 1-2hr limit.

thanks for the info!

[Flying Scotsman]

jnkhan82,,

Where about are you, if your close enough maybe i can help.

[Huz-Z]

You guys can stop at Aunt Helen's for lunch!

[Flying Scotsman]

Originally Posted by Huz-Z

You guys can stop at Aunt Helen's for lunch!

Em, have to be a wee big closer, em like under 3,500 miles!!!

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman

Em, have to be a wee big closer, em like under 3,500 miles!!!

LOL!!! You must have forgotten! Aunt Helen lives in / on Long Island!

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman

Em, have to be a wee big closer, em like under 3,500 miles!!!

I think this calls for a NY/NJ meet. I've had my car for 2 months and itching to meet other people but people are lame and no one wants to meet

[Flying Scotsman]

Originally Posted by Huz-Z

LOL!!! You must have forgotten! Aunt Helen lives in / on Long Island!

PMSL, sorry Huz thought she lived in Aberdeen, or was that where your wife's business meeting was??? lol

[Flying Scotsman]

Originally Posted by shakib

I think this calls for a NY/NJ meet. I've had my car for 2 months and itching to meet other people but people are lame and no one wants to meet

I would be up for it shakib, as long as you don't mind a foreigner and keep your speed down. I only have 2.5ltrs to play with lol.

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman

I would be up for it shakib, as long as you don't mind a foreigner

Something tells me you gonna retract that statement once we meet up

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman

PMSL, sorry Huz thought she lived in Aberdeen, or was that where your wife's business meeting was??? lol

We're in Canada but the wife's business trip was for Aberdeen. And the Aunt lives on Long Island!

Y'know, for a small city here where I live, there are a relative lot of Z4's. We have a small new BMW club and there are four Z4s in it already (mine, a black 2006, a silver 2005 and a merlot red 2003). And there are several others I've seen zipping around town lately. I've yet to see a Z4 coupe or Z4M here though!

Cheers!!

[jnkhan82]

I'm down to have a z4 meet. I just have the problem of actually being able to drive to one..lolol

[jnkhan82]

I finally got plates and I'm on the road. Thanks to you tube and help from your written tips here I've been driving pretty good.

I have a question, when I'm at the light and I see it is about to turn red, I start to take my foot of the clutch and sometimes I predict it wrong and it takes a few more seconds for the light to turn red, I just hold the clutch half way with the brake, it's only a few seconds but is that really bad for the clutch? what method would you recommend to have the clutch ready when the light turns green?

Also one more thing, when I shift gears, it has a light jerk, not much, sometimes it's smooth but I don't know what I did to make it smooth lol but sometime's it jerks. I think it has to do with how quick i release the brake vs gas; or to much gas? Any tips for smooth shifting?

Thanks everyone, everyone's been a major help

[wildag]

Originally Posted by jnkhan82

I finally got plates and I'm on the road. Thanks to you tube and help from your written tips here I've been driving pretty good.

I have a question, when I'm at the light and I see it is about to turn red, I start to take my foot of the clutch and sometimes I predict it wrong and it takes a few more seconds for the light to turn red, I just hold the clutch half way with the brake, it's only a few seconds but is that really bad for the clutch? what method would you recommend to have the clutch ready when the light turns green?

Also one more thing, when I shift gears, it has a light jerk, not much, sometimes it's smooth but I don't know what I did to make it smooth lol but sometime's it jerks. I think it has to do with how quick i release the brake vs gas; or to much gas? Any tips for smooth shifting?

Thanks everyone, everyone's been a major help

The idea is to never hold the clutch pedal halfway. Either you're on it, or you're off. Holding it half way at any time causes clutch plate wear.

The "jerk" when shift happens when the speed of the engine's output shaft does not closely match the speed of the transmission's input shaft at the time of clutch engagement (when you let off the clutch pedal). Or in other words, you need to do a little rev matching. Google for "rev match" and you'll find lots of material.

[dekaliber]

^WHS

If the revs are too high and you release the clutch, the car will lurch forward; if the revs are too low, the car will stutter as if you've just jabbed the brakes. In the former case, let the RPMs drop more and don't clutch out too quickly. In the latter case, which is more likely, rather than taking your foot off the gas completely and letting the RPMs fall to idle, you'll have to work on feathering the throttle (keep your right foot pressed on it very lightly) to maintain the correct RPM for the next gear at your speed until you have time to complete the shift. As you get faster in your shifts you'll be able to time it such that the engine drops to the correct RPM just as you complete your shift and clutch out.

It will take a bit of time for you to get the right feel for the correct RPM for a certain speed in a certain gear, but pay attention to the tach, listen to the engine, and take things slow at first and you'll improve quickly. Driving stick is one of the most fun and rewarding aspects of driving IMO (one reason why I sold my auto RX-8 and bought a Z4 coupe) and it becomes second nature with enough practice.

[jnkhan82]

Originally Posted by wildag

The idea is to never hold the clutch pedal halfway. Either you're on it, or you're off. Holding it half way at any time causes clutch plate wear.

I see, follow up question, lets say I'm the first car at the light, how would you let of the clutch quick enough where your not slowing down traffic? the sweet spot seems to be few centimeters before the brake unpressed position. What I started doing is once I see the light is about to turn green, I slowly start to let the clutch up so right when it turns green, it catches and I start rolling, sometimes if i miss time the green light by like a second, I'll have it right before it's sweet spot while holding the brake, no gas of course... is that causing massive damage? I try to feather the clutch if I miss time the light...

thanks for the advice about the rev matching, watching youtube videos as we speak

[Blind32]

Your foot should be off the brake once you start releasing the clutch.
Check out this animation

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch2.htm

See the left spinning plate. That is your engine. Even at idle (~900 rpm) when you aren't pressing the gas, that is spinning. The right plate is connected to your transmission, basically your wheels. If your brakes are on when you release the clutch 1/4, 1/2, or all the way, the right plate (your wheels) won't move but your engine will keep spinning and you will be wearing out the clutch material (or you'll stall).

Don't worry about holding up traffic. They can wait a second or two. Also on the BMW there is a temporary feature that doesn't allow the car to roll backwards for a few seconds after coming to a stop and shifting into first gear.

[ebruder]

Originally Posted by Blind32

Don't worry about holding up traffic. They can wait a second or two. Also on the BMW there is a temporary feature that doesn't allow the car to roll backwards for a few seconds after coming to a stop and shifting into first gear.

This entire post was dead on, so I'll just post this cut & paste from the Owner's Manual.

EB

Drive-off assistant
The drive-off assistant enables you to drive off smoothly on uphill gradients. It is not necessary to use the parking brake for this.
1. Hold the car in place by depressing the brake.
2. Release the brake and drive off without delay.

The drive-off assistant holds the car in place for approx. 2 seconds after the
brake is released. Depending on vehicle load, the car may roll backwards a little during this time span. Drive off without delay after releasing the brake. Otherwise, the drive-off assistant will no longer hold the car in place after approx. 2 seconds and the car will start to roll backwards.<

[dekaliber]

Originally Posted by jnkhan82

I see, follow up question, lets say I'm the first car at the light, how would you let of the clutch quick enough where your not slowing down traffic? the sweet spot seems to be few centimeters before the brake unpressed position. What I started doing is once I see the light is about to turn green, I slowly start to let the clutch up so right when it turns green, it catches and I start rolling, sometimes if i miss time the green light by like a second, I'll have it right before it's sweet spot while holding the brake, no gas of course... is that causing massive damage? I try to feather the clutch if I miss time the light...

thanks for the advice about the rev matching, watching youtube videos as we speak

You don't really need to time the light, and don't worry about people behind you.

Light turns green
Clutch in
Shift to first
Clutch back out (slowly, but not too slowly)
Gradually apply throttle pretty much as soon as you feel the friction point

I guess the trick is balance, and being smooth. I find it easier to let the revs get a littler higher -- close to 2000 RPMs -- which makes it easier to release the clutch more quickly. As many have said, minimize the time you hold your clutch in part way.

[jnkhan82]

Originally Posted by dekaliber

You don't really need to time the light, and don't worry about people behind you.

Light turns green
Clutch in
Shift to first
Clutch back out (slowly, but not too slowly)
Gradually apply throttle pretty much as soon as you feel the friction point

I guess the trick is balance, and being smooth. I find it easier to let the revs get a littler higher -- close to 2000 RPMs -- which makes it easier to release the clutch more quickly. As many have said, minimize the time you hold your clutch in part way.

ah nice I'll practice giving it more gas. What I kept doing was no gas and just letting the engine roll then letting the clutch go then gas. I kept assuming it was bad to give gas while foot on clutch.

btw love your photography web site, great work. What lens do you use? I recently got into to photography myself, picked up a 40d with a 24-70L lens, trying to get out there and shoot more.

[dekaliber]

Oh yeah, it's going to take a ton of clutch rubbing in order to get the car going with the engine on idle. Good thing you told us that haha.

Thanks re: the photos. I have a few different ones, but mostly these days I switch between a 50mm prime and a 16-85mm with VR for general purpose duty. A bunch of the photos on the site are older when I was still using the 18-70mm that came with my D70, which is also what most (if not all) of those pictures were taken with. I bought a D300 maybe 2 years ago but TBH have not been taking photos nearly as much as I used to. :\

[jnkhan82]

Originally Posted by dekaliber

Oh yeah, it's going to take a ton of clutch rubbing in order to get the car going with the engine on idle. Good thing you told us that haha.

Thanks re: the photos. I have a few different ones, but mostly these days I switch between a 50mm prime and a 16-85mm with VR for general purpose duty. A bunch of the photos on the site are older when I was still using the 18-70mm that came with my D70, which is also what most (if not all) of those pictures were taken with. I bought a D300 maybe 2 years ago but TBH have not been taking photos nearly as much as I used to. :\

ok So i just tried is, clutch full down til light turn green, let the clutch up to sweet spot, a bit of gas til around 1500 let the clutch go, seemed pretty smooth and worked out well no delay either.. woo hoo

I'm still working on up-shifting smooth, it might be because I'm shifting slow, the RPM drops to low...

Photo: ah nice, let me know if your ever in NY, I contract work to photographers for websites, brochures and other stuff. I wouldn't mind testing out your creative eye.