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      02-20-2018, 09:43 PM   #1
yousefnjr
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Trouble Getting FCAB On

Any secrets for getting new FCAB’s mounted? I mean getting the rubber all the way onto the control arm. I’ve been hammering this beezy all day, and it’s still maybe 1/4” shy from being where the original bushing was mounted. Of course the dowels don’t line up

How do you get these on best?
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      02-21-2018, 02:49 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yousefnjr View Post
Any secrets for getting new FCAB’s mounted? I mean getting the rubber all the way onto the control arm. I’ve been hammering this beezy all day, and it’s still maybe 1/4” shy from being where the original bushing was mounted. Of course the dowels don’t line up

How do you get these on best?
inTgr8r, any ideas?

Stupid question, this is an /M, were you sent the right FCABs? Ours are oddballs. I'd check the lollipops too, mine were toast at mid 40k miles.
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      02-21-2018, 07:01 AM   #3
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Yeah they’re the right ones, already pressed into new lollipops too. I read that BMW used to recommend kerosene as lube for getting these on, and some people have had success using mineral spirits. I’ve been using dish soap picking up some mineral spirits this afternoon, hopefully that helps
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      02-21-2018, 08:40 AM   #4
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Check for spurs and casting imperfections on the control arm. When I installed mine the edge of the inner opening was caught on a very small casting imperfection, resulting in the bushing digging into the soft aluminum of the arm and refusing to seat fully. I had to take a dremel and file away at it until the little bump was gone.

We’re talking about a TINY bump less than a mm across.
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      02-21-2018, 09:10 AM   #5
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^WHS
All the ones that I've done definitely benefited from cleaning up the rough edges.

If you have them partly hammered on it may be fun getting them back off w/o damaging them.
I have a plate with a slot cut in it (Like a letter C) that slides in behind.
That lets the 3 leg puller work much better.
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      02-21-2018, 10:11 AM   #6
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Will take a peek at the surface when I get home. Going to be a B getting them back off I bet, was having a hell of a time getting the originals off even while subframe was out. Used a combination of my kids’ bubble solution, a spring compressor, and a rubber mallet... and lots of swearing. Will be tougher now with subframe back on the car. Getting a proper puller today

What sucks most is that the originals didn’t even look bad, but it’s been 80k and I already had new ones on the shelf. I figured a couple minutes to pop em off & on turning into a couple days






Edit --
Just saw this thread, interesting idea on getting them pressed on with a large band clamp. Pics are broken, but sounds like they went through the hole in the CA behind the bushing, and looped across the front of the bushing. Might try this first.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...light=fcab+diy
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      02-21-2018, 03:59 PM   #7
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LOL it freaking worked. I wrapped a large band clamp and 32mm socket and cranked a few times, and she’s home. Both sides mounted super easy. Gets my vote for tip of the year. Simultaneously the dumbest and smartest thing I’ve ever seen

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      02-23-2018, 12:02 AM   #8
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I used an Irwin mini-bar clamp. I have varying lengths from my woodworking projects. Can't remember which length i used though.

For one end of the clamp i used the same hole on the control arm that your picture shows the band clamp going through, the other end is on the bushing. Worked well.

http://www.rockler.com/irwin-quick-g...xoCDZ0QAvD_BwE
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      02-23-2018, 12:12 AM   #9
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Clean the surface well, align it correctly and spray windex or window cleaner (don't use a lubricant) helps slide it in easily with a FCAB tool... hammering isn't always the best choice imo haha.
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      02-23-2018, 12:54 PM   #10
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Also for lubrication I find concentrated soap works well, since it dries out relatively quick.

Another trick is to put the pressed on bushing in hot boiling water for 5 minutes.
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