Engine support, maintenance and appearance upgrades 2016

[Steeler]

I should really do a DIY for this but don't have the inclination or the time for an in depth write up.
I find Realoem and TIS are invaluable tools.
Hopefully the attached pics will serve some purpose and I will of course answer any questions if able.

Ever since I began modding my 3 liter I knew that the 95K mile original gaskets would begin to leak at some point. Well last summer the OFH gasket and oil pan gaskets both started seeping leaving an oily mess on the bottom half of the motor. Not to mention the mess the crapped out CCV left, which was ditched last winter for a catch can set up.
On to this winters projects which includes exhaust, rear diff, more boost via smaller pulley and dump valve and the replacement of all suspect gaskets.
Disassembling everything is straight forward with regular hand tools until you get to the oil pan removal which necessitates removing the bottom cross member unless you want to slit the new gasket and insert in 2 pieces.
Removal of the cross member requires supporting the motor from above.
I accomplished this by bolting a 2"x4"X1/8" thick wall tube across the strut towers and bolting it in place using 2 of the strut attachment nuts.
I used 4 existing thread holes on the engine block with some lifting lugs I had plasma burnt at work and hung the engine with 2 - 500# ratchets.
The cross member now be removed as can the oil pan.
I plan on drilling and safety wiring the oil pump nut while it is accessible.

While everything is torn apart all aluminum parts will be glass beaded and all steel parts decreased and painted.

More pics will be added as things progress.

[Roadroach]

Looks like that should work great. I probably would have cheaped out and used a piece of 4x4 lumber. You're not concerned about no padding between your support tubing and the tops of your shock towers?

btw - pics are upside down........

[Steeler]

Thanks
Photos are fine on my devices.

There really is minimal load on the strut towers but you are likely correct.
A piece of rubber would have been ideal to eliminate any chance of scratches.

[inTgr8r]

Pics are OK for me too.

[Cyclops]

Originally Posted by Roadroach

btw - pics are upside down........

I was going to say maybe your holding the camera upside down as most of the pics you post I see upside down.

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by Cyclops

I was going to say maybe your holding the camera upside down as most of the pics you post I see upside down.

After too many pints maybe, not this time.

[gas-can]

Nice work man. Always love a good improv.

Not sure if M54 has this, but for anyone with an n52, it's very easy to hoist the engine with the tow hook. There's a threaded insert right next to the oil filter. Makes hoisting easy peasy...
-gc

[GuidoK]

Interesting engine support.

I have a generic 'china made' engine support bar (you know, the ones you can buy on ebay for a few bucks, but the z4 isnt really ideal for those kinds of bars (but I've used it a lot on other cars). They are designed to rest on the inner groove of the fenders, but on the z4 that fender groove is really thin and unsupported (no welded fenders), so I'm always afraid that they will bend a bit. Resting such a bar on the shock tower is also possible though (but again not ideal).
This looks very solid.
I guess it's not possible to use this bar with the manifold still in place?

I also want to drop the front subframe and oil pan to give everything a beadblast and paint.
And probably also do the oilpump nut with a safety wire in the process. I think the safety wire is still the best solution (it's a tried&tested method for decades to secure nuts)

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

Interesting engine support.

I have a generic 'china made' engine support bar (you know, the ones you can buy on ebay for a few bucks, but the z4 isnt really ideal for those kinds of bars. They are designed to rest on the inner groove of the fenders, but on the z4 that fender groove is really thin and unsupported (no welded fenders), so I'm always afraid that they will bend a bit. Resting such a bar on the shock tower is also possible though (but again not ideal).
This looks very solid.
I guess it's not possible to use this bar with the manifold still in place?

I also want to drop the front subframe and oil pan to give everything a beadblast and paint.
And probably also do the oilpump nut with a safety wire in the process. I think the safety wire is still the best solution (it's a tried&tested method for decades to secure nuts)

Guido, not sure about leaving the IM or EM in place, likely not.
I was always going to take the manifolds off anyway this winter to correct an exhaust and vacuum leak so this was no hardship really.
Agreed safety wiring works in Motorsports and I was never going to tack weld the nut.

[Steeler]

Update
Everything degreased and beginning to reinstall parts. Taking time to research torque specs for every single bolt. Every bolt is marked with a black marker after torquing as a visual check.
Oil pan, Cross member, steering rack, engine mounts and sway bar installed and torqued.

[inTgr8r]

Looks like new.

[GuidoK]

Looks nice.
What type of finishing did you use on the engine mounts and the sump?
Is it some kind of paint? It doesnt look like the typical bead blasting.

Are you going to do vanos revision etc as well? (I see that you got the starter out probably for revision or replacement)
And did you get the complete steering column out or just the connecting rod?

I also mark everything after torqueing.

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

Looks nice.
What type of finishing did you use on the engine mounts and the sump?
Is it some kind of paint? It doesnt look like the typical bead blasting.

Are you going to do vanos revision etc as well? (I see that you got the starter out probably for revision or replacement)
And did you get the complete steering column out or just the connecting rod?

I also mark everything after torqueing.

Thanks guys.

I did the Dr Vanos fix 2 years ago. The starter came out so I could clean everything, it was bench tested and was good.

I actually had my local sandblaster give all the aluminum bits a quick "wash" then I thoroughly de-gritted them in the bath tub(much to the little lady's shagrin)

I removed only the shaft from the column to the rack again for cleaning.

It is amazing how much dirt collects everywhere when there is oil around to catch it.

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

Looks like new.

Thanks Ian, not often you get chance to access everything and give it a good clean.

[Steeler]

OK so I renamed the thread to include all mods, upgrades maintenance performed winter 2016.
Took a break today from the engine bay to install the refurbished Speedhut gauges.
I had the bezels and face color changed as well as adding a much needed oil pressure gauge.
Gauges now are Boost in the dash plate, oil temp., oil press, and air fuel ratio in the gauge pod.
When I reconnect the battery I will get a lighted gauges pic up.
The speedo cluster gauge face is covered in this thread http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1192871

[Vanne]

wow, cool bits of work going on, good on you

those 3 instruments on the ashtray panel, they functional? if so wheres the write up on that? looks awesome.

Block looks super clean, good job nice mounts

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by Vanne

wow, cool bits of work going on, good on you

those 3 instruments on the ashtray panel, they functional? if so wheres the write up on that? looks awesome.

Block looks super clean, good job nice mounts

Yup all functional, they have been in since 2013 when I did the SC.
No write up unfortunately, basically PnP

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Vanne

wow, cool bits of work going on, good on you

those 3 instruments on the ashtray panel, they functional? if so wheres the write up on that? looks awesome.

Block looks super clean, good job nice mounts

Here's the DIY
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730201

I see that I never updated with final interior pics, but the important info is there.
I'm planning to move mine to the radio location soon, so I will have the tray piece available at that time.

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

Here's the DIY
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730201

I see that I never updated with final interior pics, but the important info is there.
I'm planning to move mine to the radio location soon, so I will have the tray piece available at that time.

Ian is it the 3D design gauge pod?
If so they are no longer made, as such very desirable as it is the only pod I know of that looks OEM.

[inTgr8r]

Yes, that's the one.

[Vanne]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

Here's the DIY
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730201

I see that I never updated with final interior pics, but the important info is there.
I'm planning to move mine to the radio location soon, so I will have the tray piece available at that time.

Keep me in mind when the tine comes Ian :-D

Thx for the write up.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Vanne

Keep me in mind when the tine comes Ian :-D

Thx for the write up.

Will do