Carmax Warranty or Self Insure on a 3.0si?

[HEY32G]

I posed a similar question in regards to a Z4M. I sincerely hope you guys won't get tired of my questions.

After driving a 3.0si this evening, I've decided to go that direction instead of the M. Cheaper purchase and running costs. I have 3 kids that are closing in on college much faster than I want to think about.

Carmax sells great warranties on their cars. For $2500-$3000 I can get bumper to bumper coverage for 100k miles and/or 6 years with a $200-$300 deductible.

I've heard the Z4's reliability is quite good, so would this be a waste of money or would it be worth it? It seems every owner I've spoken to tells me how reliable their cars have been. There are certainly a wider variety of cars to choose from outside of CarMax. Also, I have a great indie shop very close to my home. I work from home, so I don't do a great deal of driving, it's not like I have a big commute to deal with. Also, I live in a small town, so I make pretty short runs. I will also use the car for road trips of a 200 miles or so, and will do a lot of fun Texas hill country drives. Lastly, I'll be looking at cars with less than 30k miles.

Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[JeffchaPz]

OP, if you are not a handy man and enjoy working on your car, then I say get the warranty. I purchased my Z4M in 2011 from CarMax and I thought I was going to return it before the 7 days they allow you to drive it before the deal is written on stone. However, after I drove it for few hours I was hooked and I knew that bringing the car to the dealership for maintenance or repairs was not an option.

I never purchased any warranties, but I invested in a lot of tools, 2 hydraulic jacks etc etc, because now I refuse to let anyone work on my baby.... I mean car. So far I did Inspection I(took me about 8 hours and saved $1800) I changed to euro headers, poly.... motor mounts, neo... transmission mounts and few other things... by myself and I love it!

I'm planning to keep the car for many many more years God willing and if anything breaks... I'll fix it myself.


Go for the ///M if you can... you won't regret it.

Buena suerte

[HEY32G]

You don't know how much I would love to be able to do that, but it ain't happening. Not mechanically inclined at all. I walk through the house with a hammer or screw driver and my wife goes into panic mode chasing me down.

[Vanne]

Originally Posted by HEY32G

You don't know how much I would love to be able to do that, but it ain't happening. Not mechanically inclined at all. I walk through the house with a hammer or screw driver and my wife goes into panic mode chasing me down.

MUwhhhaaaawhhhaa .. lol

man, you just made my day :}____)

[Efthreeoh]

I just bought a 2008 E86 3.0si coupe from CarMax. I didn't even consider the warranty. It's probably a good deal, but it looked like to me they do their own work to maintain and repair the car, rather then take it to a qualified BMW repair technician. My first evidence of this was the oil change CarMax does when they take a car for re-sale. On my car they did not use a BMW OE or OEM (MANN) filter and who knows what kind of oil they used. I changed the oil right after I took delivery of the car and found a CarQuest-brand oil filter, crushed because it didn't fit correctly. Second, at some point the battery must have died. CarMax put in a H5 (DIN-sized) Duralast Autozone battery, the battery is not the correct size, does not have the venting tube installed (the parts are now missing), and the plastic divider that walls off the battery compartment was installed incorrectly. The battery slides around and there is a risk of it venting acid into the battery compartment.

My concern with CarMax would be they'd not use BMW original equipment parts and not have the training to effect a quality repair. A 3rd-party aftermarket warranty that allows use of a certified BMW repair establishment (Independent or a Dealer) in my mind is a better choice. Take my advice after 26-years and over 650,000 combined miles of BMW ownership, if you are not a competent and qualified DIY'er, then never let anyone other than a trained and certified BMW technician work on your BMW.

[gas-can]

I concur with Efthreooh - the warranty would probably be cost effective - even though it would be hard to predict whether you would need it since most E85s are so reliable and simple... But with a car you can never tell when something will break.

That said, I'd forever question the work that would be done if the place doing the repair isn't directly BMW or a trusted shop. Most 'normal' shops don't know how to work on these cars. I've seen even experienced shops screw up something as simple as an alignment. So if it's Carfax itself that would do the work, I'd be worried. In that case, it may make more sense to store that 2k in an index fund - and maybe add like 30 bucks every month into it. Unless you get a total lemon, that should cover most problems...

It's too bad your wife is afraid of you with tools- if you read the proper procedures, these cars are some of the easiest to work on - plenty of room and logical layout. Then you could spend that money on whisky instead!

-gc

[3002 tii]

The N52 motors are pretty reliable. I made a thread a while back on motor related issues. The common issues are:

1. Premature water pump / thermostat failure. These are known to go as early as 60k, some last as long as 90k but you're better off replacing it as preventive maintenance around the 60-70k mark. Parts are a bit expensive because the water pump is electric but the installation is pretty straightforward. This one isn't a matter of IF but WHEN so plan on replacing this for sure.

2. Oil filter housing gasket leaks - more common on 06 models, less so on 07 to 08. This job isn't expensive when it comes to parts but the labor involved can be a real PITA. It'll take a good 6-8 hours. If you have an 07+ you probably don't need to worry as much but a lot of 325/330 and 5-series owners had to replace theirs.

3. Coilpacks are really finicky on this car. My first one went around 45k and I just replaced all 6 to be safe but these are pretty common. Also, I get a CEL every 20k related to the intake solenoid. The official fix is to remove it and clean it out as apposed to replacing it which is pretty expensive. Every time you pull it out however you need to replace the O-ring as those are 1 time use only.

4. Valve lifter "ticking" noise, more an annoyance than anything. The dealers replaced them for free if you the customer made a complaint during a warranty period.

[HEY32G]

Thanks for the great input, guys. It is so nice to have a forum like this. It really is.

You guys are really making me lean toward just buying the best car I can find. Probably an '07 or '08 if possible. I am lucky enough to have an awesome indie shop very close to where I live. I think I mentioned that previously. I've already spoken with him and he can't say enough good things about the Z4. He's a BMW motorcycle dealer, but there are always about 10 exotic cars parked outside his shop that he's working on. He actually has a 1970's Formula One car in the garage.

As for doing my own work, like I said, I am not mechanical at all, but my wife's father was an engineer in the aerospace/defense industry his whole career and my wife inherited his talent. She had a 240Z in college and did all the work on it herself, so I'll just send her out there to work on it. Maybe I can put on an apron hand her the tools or something!

Plus, if I don't have a warranty I'll be free to add an aftermarket exhaust if I feel like it. Probably the only mod I would consider. But at least I'd be free to do it.

[JeffchaPz]

OP - I say you invest in at least two hydraulic jacks and 4 jack stands.... these will run you for about $200 and you can start changing your own oil.... if you do that you'll recover those $200 after you do your 2nd oil change Get your wife's approval before you get under the car

I'm pretty sure BMW takes less than 30 mins to change the oil on a Z4M but it takes me 5 hours, that's because I usually I end up spit-shining other things under the car and that includes a beer break in between and a 30 mins talk/visit from the supervisor A.K.A wife.

Bottom line, once you start fixing the Z4M, you'll no longer will have a car but a $28,000 toy.

In regards to making it louder - start from the front and save $$$ I went through 2 different size of exhausts until it was comfortable and loud enough for me, then I decided that I need more power and that's when headers and a tune from ESS came into the picture and the car became even louder. So I changing my exhausts twice after that.

Now I have two 22 inch magnaflows in the back. The car still pretty loud around 2k RPMs but it puuuurrrs on the highway when you pass 3k RPMs and I get zero drone.

I'm not trying to sell you the M, I'm just sharing my personal experience with my car..... 4 years later my wife still says I love the car more than I love her.


Buena suerte - now go and get your new toy.... I mean car.

[DaveZ]

FWIW, for most of my oil changes I use a "topsider" oil pump that vacuums up through the dipstick tube. No need to put the car up on jacks, get under the car, or get oil on your hands if you don't want to. When it's time for a brake or coolant change, or some other service I let my indie guy do a traditional down-under oil service. Really easy, brain-dead simple DIY that saves quite a bit of $$.

[HEY32G]

There's one for sale right now with 24,000 miles that, according to the Carfax has had the steering angle sensor replaced twice, the mass air flow sensor replaced, the leak detection pump replaced, and the
Evaporative emissions vent purge valve replaced, has had the engine wiring harness repaired, and has had the engine valves adjusted. All that was within the first 17,000 miles.

Seems like a lot to me.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by HEY32G

There's one for sale right now with 24,000 miles that, according to the Carfax has had the steering angle sensor replaced twice, the mass air flow sensor replaced, the leak detection pump replaced, and the
Evaporative emissions vent purge valve replaced, has had the engine wiring harness repaired, and has had the engine valves adjusted. All that was within the first 17,000 miles.

Seems like a lot to me.

Sounds like a lemon, stay away

[JeffchaPz]

Call this place and get more info if you like it in red.


http://www.mercedesbenzofaustin.com/...fab523bc5b.htm



From what I can tell, the front bumper on the drivers side is scratched.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

Sounds like a lemon, stay away

100% agree

[m3griff]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

The N52 motors are pretty reliable. I made a thread a while back on motor related issues. The common issues are:

1. Premature water pump / thermostat failure. These are known to go as early as 60k, some last as long as 90k but you're better off replacing it as preventive maintenance around the 60-70k mark. Parts are a bit expensive because the water pump is electric but the installation is pretty straightforward. This one isn't a matter of IF but WHEN so plan on replacing this for sure.

2. Oil filter housing gasket leaks - more common on 06 models, less so on 07 to 08. This job isn't expensive when it comes to parts but the labor involved can be a real PITA. It'll take a good 6-8 hours. If you have an 07+ you probably don't need to worry as much but a lot of 325/330 and 5-series owners had to replace theirs.

3. Coilpacks are really finicky on this car. My first one went around 45k and I just replaced all 6 to be safe but these are pretty common. Also, I get a CEL every 20k related to the intake solenoid. The official fix is to remove it and clean it out as apposed to replacing it which is pretty expensive. Every time you pull it out however you need to replace the O-ring as those are 1 time use only.

4. Valve lifter "ticking" noise, more an annoyance than anything. The dealers replaced them for free if you the customer made a complaint during a warranty period.

If the OP is still talking 3.0 si then this list is perfect except that I would add potential electric steering notchiness for the 06 and maybe early 07 cars. Not a killer for driving but costs about $3k to fix.

Otherwise, I have had my 06 3.0si for 6 yrs and 70k miles. Done the maintenance as preventative and love the car.

[bgeorge0049]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I just bought a 2008 E86 3.0si coupe from CarMax. I didn't even consider the warranty. It's probably a good deal, but it looked like to me they do their own work to maintain and repair the car, rather then take it to a qualified BMW repair technician. My first evidence of this was the oil change CarMax does when they take a car for re-sale. On my car they did not use a BMW OE or OEM (MANN) filter and who knows what kind of oil they used. I changed the oil right after I took delivery of the car and found a CarQuest-brand oil filter, crushed because it didn't fit correctly. Second, at some point the battery must have died. CarMax put in a H5 (DIN-sized) Duralast Autozone battery, the battery is not the correct size, does not have the venting tube installed (the parts are now missing), and the plastic divider that walls off the battery compartment was installed incorrectly. The battery slides around and there is a risk of it venting acid into the battery compartment.

My concern with CarMax would be they'd not use BMW original equipment parts and not have the training to effect a quality repair. A 3rd-party aftermarket warranty that allows use of a certified BMW repair establishment (Independent or a Dealer) in my mind is a better choice. Take my advice after 26-years and over 650,000 combined miles of BMW ownership, if you are not a competent and qualified DIY'er, then never let anyone other than a trained and certified BMW technician work on your BMW.

The CarMax extended warranty allows you to get the work done at a shop of your choice. They have an incentive built in if you get the work done by them. It is $50 off of your deductible.

[gas-can]

Originally Posted by m3griff

If the OP is still talking 3.0 si then this list is perfect except that I would add potential electric steering notchiness for the 06 and maybe early 07 cars. Not a killer for driving but costs about $3k to fix.

Otherwise, I have had my 06 3.0si for 6 yrs and 70k miles. Done the maintenance as preventative and love the car.

Griff, I think it was around June or July of 06 that they went to the new column...

And 3002, regarding the water pump, how difficult is it to change? The water pump looked really accessible to be when I was under the car, but are there any weird requirements to access it? I'm quickly approaching the 70k and want to replace it, lest be stranded on the side of the road!

-gc

[chickdr]

Originally Posted by DaveZ

FWIW, for most of my oil changes I use a "topsider" oil pump that vacuums up through the dipstick tube. No need to put the car up on jacks, get under the car, or get oil on your hands if you don't want to. When it's time for a brake or coolant change, or some other service I let my indie guy do a traditional down-under oil service. Really easy, brain-dead simple DIY that saves quite a bit of $$.

I use a topsider too. Works great. Takes a while to empty the oil but not having to mess with the undertray is worth it. Car never leaves the ground.

http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-T...er+oil+changer

[WestCDA]

Originally Posted by chickdr

I use a topsider too. Works great. Takes a while to empty the oil but not having to mess with the undertray is worth it. Car never leaves the ground.

Wouldn't be an option on an N52 - electronic oil monitoring, no dipstick tube. However, accessing the oil drain couldn't be simpler - it's right behind a dedicated door in the underbody pan. Yes, the car needs to be lifted somewhat to do an oil service, but it's an excellent opportunity to have a good look around underneath for any wear, road damage, corrosion, safety issues, etc.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by gas-can

Griff, I think it was around June or July of 06 that they went to the new column...

And 3002, regarding the water pump, how difficult is it to change? The water pump looked really accessible to be when I was under the car, but are there any weird requirements to access it? I'm quickly approaching the 70k and want to replace it, lest be stranded on the side of the road!

-gc

Here's my DIY I wrote for the E90 DIY section.

[gas-can]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Here's my DIY I wrote for the E90 DIY section.

Much obliged Efthreeoh. Thanks very much!

-gc

[HEY32G]

Originally Posted by txs2000

The CarMax extended warranty allows you to get the work done at a shop of your choice. They have an incentive built in if you get the work done by them. It is $50 off of your deductible.

I called them, they said, it can be done by them, a BMW dealer, or any shop that offers a 6 month/6,000 mile warranty on the repair.