Z4MC wheel alignment

[Erhan]

What do you guys suggest for an aggressive but street use? I have 245F and 265R Hankook V12s. I also have Dinan springs.

I know I want about -2 -2.5 camber for the front (or as close as I can get to these numbers since I have the stock suspension), but not sure about toe and caster. I have no idea about rears.

Thanks!

[a_riddler]

I'm running the following:

-2.5 Camber Front
0 Toe front

-2 Camber Rear
.10 Toe Rear

Your welcome to take my car for a lap on the autocross course next session. I've seen how slow you drive, not worried you'll break anything...

There is noticeable wear on the fronts though. Since I've still got the stock conti's, I'm not worried about it, but I can't comment on what the long term wear would be.

[Erhan]

Originally Posted by a_riddler

I'm running the following:

-2.5 Camber Front
0 Toe front

-2 Camber Rear
.10 Toe Rear

Your welcome to take my car for a lap on the autocross course next session. I've seen how slow you drive, not worried you'll break anything...

I'm taking this challange. Next time, we'll time the runs (although the course doesn't stay same...).

I'll have the alignment this week (part of the accident thing). What is the caster you're using?

[onebluemcm]

I didn't think caster was all that adjustable on the stock set up - have I been misled?

And I would just say that to get -2 to -2.5 degrees up front, you need shims or camber plates - I thought ~ -1.8 was the most you could get with the stock camber adjustment up top. Do let us know what they did and what you end up with.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by a_riddler

I'm running the following:

-2.5 Camber Front
0 Toe front

-2 Camber Rear
.10 Toe Rear

Your welcome to take my car for a lap on the autocross course next session. I've seen how slow you drive, not worried you'll break anything...

There is noticeable wear on the fronts though. Since I've still got the stock conti's, I'm not worried about it, but I can't comment on what the long term wear would be.

Very similar for me with less rear toe....

-2.4 Camber Front
0.0 Toe front

-2.1 Camber Rear
0.03 Toe Rear

[a_riddler]

I didn't ask for any changes to Caster.

Ended up with:

5.9 Left, 6.07 Right

Before was:
5.98 Left, 6.13 Right

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by onebluemcm

I didn't think caster was all that adjustable on the stock set up - have I been misled?

And I would just say that to get -2 to -2.5 degrees up front, you need shims or camber plates - I thought ~ -1.8 was the most you could get with the stock camber adjustment up top. Do let us know what they did and what you end up with.

correct.
I have shims.

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by erhanh

What do you guys suggest for an aggressive but street use? I have 245F and 265R Hankook V12s. I also have Dinan springs.

I know I want about -2 -2.5 camber for the front (or as close as I can get to these numbers since I have the stock suspension), but not sure about toe and caster. I have no idea about rears.

Thanks!

What is "aggressive but street" use?

On the track my car is happiest at -3.0º front camber, -2.0º rear camber, with 3/16th toe-out front and 1/8th toe-in rear (no caster adjustment). Would I run this on the street? Not really.

No matter how "aggressive" you drive on the street you're never going to see the kind of wear you're going to see on track. Not even remotely close. Take my alignment settings and cut everything in half, and swap from toe-out up front to toe-in up front and you'll get a pretty good "street" setting regardless of how "hard" you drive on the street.

[Erhan]

Thanks for the replies guys. I think I remember one member was able to get -1.9 camber but in general everyone is around -1.5 with stock setup. I'll either get whatever I can get or I'll order Turner motorsport washers... didn't decide yet, since I'll invest on camber plates next year...

@Hack, I guess it is because of my poor English, you never seem to understand me and give me answers with attitude...

[RBull]

front
camber -1.7
toe .01

rear
camber -2.3 / -2/2
toe .10

[inTgr8r]

....just got back from alignment.
With my drop the lowest I can get on front camber is -2.75 with 2 shim washers.
(Eibach on Koni struts)

I'm really looking forward to running this setup tomorrow,
but I don't think I can keep it like this long term.
I'll have to go to 1 washer to get camber in the -2.4 range.

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by erhanh

@Hack, I guess it is because of my poor English, you never seem to understand me and give me answers with attitude...

Don't flatter yourself. I give EVERYONE attitude.

My point is this. You will never need the amount of camber recommended by some of these members here. Anything OVER -1.5 for street use is overkill. If you don't plan on taking the car to the track (heck even if you ARE planning on taking it to the track) any camber over -1.5 with zero or toe-out up front will eat through tires like crazy. So even your "aggressive" but mostly street driving, any sort of alignment outside of what the factory recommends, in my not so humble opinion, is a waste of time and money.

For example, my typical "turn" at the track can involve a 120+ mph right or left hander REPEATEDLY, up to 15 times in a 25 minute span, pulling in excess of 1G. That sort of "grip" and forces that require any sort of negative camber more than 2 degrees up front will NEVER be experienced on the street. At least not safely nor possible without killing a lot of people and destroying a lot of properties.

So my suggestion to you is, instead of being offended by what I have to say, take my track specs, cut everything in half and toe-in up front instead of toe-out. That is a good starting point for street alignment and will preserve your tires.

Trust me on this. Negative camber up front for you is USELESS.

[Caddyshk]

Originally Posted by The HACK

Don't flatter yourself. I give EVERYONE attitude.

My point is this. You will never need the amount of camber recommended by some of these members here. Anything OVER -1.5 for street use is overkill. If you don't plan on taking the car to the track (heck even if you ARE planning on taking it to the track) any camber over -1.5 with zero or toe-out up front will eat through tires like crazy. So even your "aggressive" but mostly street driving, any sort of alignment outside of what the factory recommends, in my not so humble opinion, is a waste of time and money.

For example, my typical "turn" at the track can involve a 120+ mph right or left hander REPEATEDLY, up to 15 times in a 25 minute span, pulling in excess of 1G. That sort of "grip" and forces that require any sort of negative camber more than 2 degrees up front will NEVER be experienced on the street. At least not safely nor possible without killing a lot of people and destroying a lot of properties.

So my suggestion to you is, instead of being offended by what I have to say, take my track specs, cut everything in half and toe-in up front instead of toe-out. That is a good starting point for street alignment and will preserve your tires.

Trust me on this. Negative camber up front for you is USELESS.

You've never given me attitude I find it is the way the question is asked. I like your straight to the point responses and respect your opinions on these cars...