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03-06-2016, 09:43 AM | #111 | |
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03-06-2016, 11:54 AM | #113 |
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My timing cover's been oozing for years.
When I did the timing chain guide and tensioner a year ago I guess I didn't get the seat clean so it's been dripping. Now my CPV is starting to leak again. Thought about fixing that yesterday, but I was too knackered. Literally thought about duct taping a Pampers inside the "diaper", and just change it once a month. Then again, maybe I should go with Depends. Only took it around the block, but there's definitely some extra massage action at idle, especially if it drops down around 850 rpm, which mine does once in a while for no apparent reason. It woke a new buzz somewhere deep in the dash. Minimal vibe once off idle, but it seems like I'm hearing more of the engine at around 3000 rpm. Doubles as a sound generator.
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03-06-2016, 03:07 PM | #114 |
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their a guy on m3forum selling these uprated Viton seals that are apparently 10x stronger for the CPV, I've just ordered a couple....
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03-06-2016, 06:51 PM | #115 |
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Thanks.
I found out about those a few days after I replaced mine with stock about 3 years ago. I have a couple in my spare parts drawer in a little bag with some oil to keep them moisturized.
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03-06-2016, 07:39 PM | #116 |
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StickMon, I know you've moved on to a new mount, but was curious if VT or the US rep ever got back to you with an offer of a replacement insert.
Thanks. Salty
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03-06-2016, 09:31 PM | #117 |
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Colin posted in M3forum that I should shoot him a PM or swing by his shop, but I'm not convinced it's worth my time to pursue it.
And as probably my final word on VT, I still don't really fault them for the failure. I drive an ///M in LA rush hour traffic, which is not the way BMW intended an ///M to be driven. So I'm "misusing" the car and the mounts, and the VT mounts were simply not suited for my peculiar application. I really liked the mounts while they lasted. They look great, and performed as advertised. What I will fault VT for is alluding to them being rebuildable. Not sure where this rumor started. Maybe the factory, maybe a distributor. There's nothing on their web page about them being rebuildable. "Shoot me a PM or swing by the shop" is not the same as "Add to cart".
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03-07-2016, 12:52 AM | #118 | |
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03-07-2016, 06:04 AM | #119 |
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A little off topic but not really, anybody have a link as to where to buy the 10.9 bolts and the nordilocks?
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03-07-2016, 07:18 AM | #120 | |
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#90854a172/=11fo2xb See Wedge Lock washers -- not sure if you want stainless or zinc and what OD you want. I didn't use them. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=11fo3dl Salty
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03-07-2016, 10:50 PM | #121 |
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Here's what I used:
91812A430 Type 316 Stainless Steel Wedge Lock Washer 5/16"/m8 Screw Size, .65" Od, .09" Thick (2 Packs)
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04-11-2019, 10:49 AM | #122 |
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After having the VT mounts and RE trans mounts staring at me from the shelf for several years.....I finally installed them.
Wrt VT mounts, for me, the passenger side was a bit of a b*tch since I couldn't jack high enough to get the mount to clear the last 1/8-1/4". I was able to manually compress the mount enough to get the lower bolt free. I also re-used the heatshield from the OE passenger side mount by flattening out the tab (per an old post from Beta). Drivers side VT mount was a breeze even though there is less room to work. Of course, it all went down opposite of how I figured it would. Finally installed RE trans mounts, too. Probably slightly over-torqued the upper mount nuts by a couple/few NM but only gauging that based on comparison of 'hand torque vs torque wrench'-ing of the tray bolts. As others have found, wrt the trans mounts, there is no real way to get a torque wrench up there. I think dropping that section of the exhaust and removal of the rest of the heatshield would make it loads 'easier' (or at least gain far better access to the upper mount nuts). I ended up using a low profile 1/4" ratchet w/ a regular 13mm socket. I also double checked w/ a ratcheting box wrench since I didn't trust the new 'Husky' ratchet I just got yet. In both cases, I ran the tool above the heatshield from the driver's side of the exahaust pipes but used my fingers to move the ratchet/wrench from the passenger's side of the exhaust pipes. I made a run to HD just before they closed looking for stubby, flex, ratcheting wrenches per Bill's recommendation (Bill's Webspace!) but they had none. At least the dog got to go for a ride.
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04-13-2019, 01:09 PM | #123 | |
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If the exhaust is still connected the passenger side won't come up as high as the driver's. You can easily rock the engine (kinda spooky) and put a piece of wood between the header and the wheel well to level it out. Not sure how you did it, but I only jacked the engine up enough to get a little daylight between the brackets and the tops of the mounts, then removed the brackets. Makes it super easy to swap out the mounts, and you only have to raise the engine about 1/4"-1/2".
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04-14-2019, 08:10 AM | #124 | |
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I lifted slightly higher as a result but finally relented to basically bench pressing the passenger side mount up w/ my hands cupped around it underneath. Since I could raise the mount some, I was able to get my hands around it enough. From there, I could compress it enough to be able to get the bottom bolt out from it's home on the frame. Installation was the opposite. It wasn't that bad in this fashion. If anything, the agony was more not finding others having the same issue documented on a forum coupled w/ the nervousness of raising the engine/trans (since I'd rather have used an engine lift). I'll go check the brackets for the method you describe, though. I'm always a fan of learning from others and knowing there are better paths forward. Took the Moupe out yesterday and the difference w/ the VT and RE mounts is noticeable (as others have mentioned over the years). I haven't noticed needing the 'heartbeat method' for 1-2 shifts in quite the same fashion as before and I still have my CDV in. That is true for both slow accelerations and fast ones. 4-5 shifts are smoother at slow accelerations, too. Slight NV (no H) at first start until the RPMs drop to normal idle but it is ever so slight and fine thereafter.
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