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      03-08-2018, 10:27 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
Especially if you think about that changing rodbearings is about 1 day of work tops for a trained mechanic. Add in about $900 on parts (1 half of a bearing is $37,-, which is pretty excessive), but even then they thus charge $1000,-/hour....

For $9300 you can almost expect a new engine....
I would hope that quote included a new crankshaft, but the Service Advisor didn't sound like a car guy at all so I ended the call right there. Otherwise, how could he give me that quote without laughing and telling me a little more detail about what gold plated parts I'd be receiving for that amount.
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      03-08-2018, 11:43 AM   #46
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Even with a crankshaft its very expensive. Crankshaft+bearings is about 2k. Fitting it is obviously more work but still you're looking at about 3k total in parts, so that leaves 6k+ in work.
I also find it strange to give a $9.3k quote without any real diagnose. Why would one want to install a new crankshaft? Thats something you decide on when the bottom end is open, not something from behind a desk.
I sometimes think that a dealership knows as much about cars as people who bring them there...
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      03-08-2018, 12:45 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
Even with a crankshaft its very expensive. Crankshaft+bearings is about 2k. Fitting it is obviously more work but still you're looking at about 3k total in parts, so that leaves 6k+ in work.
I also find it strange to give a $9.3k quote without any real diagnose. Why would one want to install a new crankshaft? Thats something you decide on when the bottom end is open, not something from behind a desk.
I sometimes think that a dealership knows as much about cars as people who bring them there...
They may have purposely quoted themselves out of the job. It happens sometimes
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      03-08-2018, 01:20 PM   #48
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Sure if they can't handle the workload. But I dont see why one shouldnt be honest with a customer (or person in general). Just tell them so.
TBH I think for these kinds of jobs you're better off with a real specialist. They usually have more experience, more care for the customer and are way cheaper.
In germany you can get this service, incl all the parts (bearings, bolts, gaskets, oil filter and tws oil change) for €1080, or €1120 if you need a new oil pump relieve valve piston (they wear too), so thats about $1390,- (and thats including the 20% tax that you have to pay in europe as a private person) to give an idea what a service like this should cost.
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      03-14-2018, 12:03 PM   #49
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Let me thank all of you who have posted on this topic because you convinced me to have my bearings changed. My 2007 M Coupe has 68,000 miles and has always been pampered with careful driving until the engine is warm and oil changes at 7500 miles or more frequent. The guys who changed the bearings were quite surprised at the amount of wear.
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      03-14-2018, 12:18 PM   #50
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Thats I think quite a normal wear pattern for a 60k s54

What you also can do is check the oil pump pressure valve piston. They can have some wear too:



In europe its common practice (in germany at least) to replace those too because they're fairly cheap and the procedure is very simple if the oil pump is already dismanteled, there are even versions which have a special coating.
However I dont know to what extend this wear has an influence on oil pressure or future wear, but the parts are damaged to some extend.
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      03-14-2018, 01:37 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobhnc View Post
Let me thank all of you who have posted on this topic because you convinced me to have my bearings changed. My 2007 M Coupe has 68,000 miles and has always been pampered with careful driving until the engine is warm and oil changes at 7500 miles or more frequent. The guys who changed the bearings were quite surprised at the amount of wear.
Bob, I see you are from NC. Where abouts? Do you mind sharing who did your bearings? Glad you caught it.

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      03-14-2018, 01:55 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
What you also can do is check the oil pump pressure valve piston.
Dang, another "while I'm in there part." Is that at the back of the oil pump housing? I didn't know those oil pumps had parts available. Cool. Thanks for posting this.

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      03-14-2018, 02:01 PM   #53
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Guido, do you have a source for the piston?

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      03-14-2018, 02:28 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
Guido, do you have a source for the piston?

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Not a global one, only one in germany.

Somehow its not a part that bmw sells seperately.
I know where it sits, because for the m54 engine its freely available at bmw (its held in place with a little circlip/snap ring in the oil pump):
this is the schematic for the m54:

Part #12
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E8...mp_with_drive/

But for the s54 (and (euro)s50, almost same engine, 100% same problems )

part not listed
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E8...mp_with_drive/

I have no idea if these parts are interchangeable, but I dont think so, at least I found no confirmation. But I'm not that deep in s54 mechanics (I have no info on their dimensions etc, looking the same and measuring up the same are of course 2 different things....).
The m54 part looks like this and is very cheap:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11411716410/

These are s50/s54 pressure pistons:


I dont know where they get them or if they make them themselves but you can see they swap them in conserable numbers. Like I wrote 1 german workshop only charges €40 for the new piston fitted.
This picture comes from the german company Motorsporttechnik Mandel where most germans seem to get them:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.p...43150009130028

On the german M forum there is maybe more info on this part and suppliers. Maybe they know if the part is the same as the m54 part.
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      03-14-2018, 04:26 PM   #55
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Thanks, man. Wow, amazing how cheap that part is. Sometimes it amazes me how one part goes for next to nothing and another is astronomical. I had to replace a DSC pressure sensor the other day. Nevermind that it's in a hellacious location on the E46, but the cheapest price I could find was $139. They are getting more and more expensive every year. Maybe I should invest in DSC pressure sensors. Of course, they have them from Ebay and Alibaba for $20, and that looks like what it should cost.
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      03-14-2018, 04:29 PM   #56
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My son is in Germany. I was going to send him, but he's 5 hours away from their shop. Darn.
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      03-14-2018, 07:39 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
Dang, another "while I'm in there part." ...
Oh, yea, while you're in there, what about the timing chain guide?
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      03-14-2018, 08:15 PM   #58
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Oh, yea, while you're in there, what about the timing chain guide?
I think that would require removing the timing case. That means removing the crank pulley and replacing the crank seal. And probably removing the vanos or a large part of it, so thats probably more work than doing the rodbearings.
You can maybe replace the tensioner of the oil pump chain but maybe you cant even reach that.

Strange thing about those oil pump pressure pistons is that TIS displays for the s54 how it comes apart and that when you take it apart you have to replace the O ring (but no parts show up in the ETK). Together with a diagram that looks exactly like oil pressure valve setup from the m54... So it all looks increadiby the same.... but is it? Maybe someone on e46fanatics knows?
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      03-15-2018, 01:23 AM   #59
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Actually, the timing chain guide that wears catastrophically is the one for the tensioner.
You can access it by removing the Vanos and the exhaust hub.
Mine was totally frazzed at about 120k miles.
I took pics, but I can't find my thread.

Another common S54 issue.
10 seconds on Google found:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1003185
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      03-15-2018, 10:10 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Actually, the timing chain guide that wears catastrophically is the one for the tensioner.
You can access it by removing the Vanos and the exhaust hub.
Mine was totally frazzed at about 120k miles.
I took pics, but I can't find my thread.

Another common S54 issue.
10 seconds on Google found:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1003185
Yes - mine was on the tipping point of failure when "Kaiv" helped me worked on the Vanos a couple of years ago (when the car only had ~46K miles on it)! So that looks to be a 50K-mile wear item as well.

Looks like Beisan have an improve upper chain guide now => http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=596037
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      03-15-2018, 10:17 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Oh, yea, while you're in there, what about the timing chain guide?
I replaced it when we did the VANOS. Woot!

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      03-15-2018, 12:44 PM   #62
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... Looks like Beisan have an improve upper chain guide now => http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=596037
This is fantastic news.
We need to spread the word on this.
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      03-19-2018, 07:48 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Actually, the timing chain guide that wears catastrophically is the one for the tensioner.
You can access it by removing the Vanos and the exhaust hub.
Mine was totally frazzed at about 120k miles.
I took pics, but I can't find my thread.

Another common S54 issue.
10 seconds on Google found:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1003185
Yes - mine was on the tipping point of failure when "Kaiv" helped me worked on the Vanos a couple of years ago (when the car only had ~46K miles on it)! So that looks to be a 50K-mile wear item as well.

Looks like Beisan have an improve upper chain guide now => http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=596037
Thanks for this. Will be doing my VANOS this summer and this is definitely going on the parts list.
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      01-14-2019, 11:01 PM   #64
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Got my first report back after rod bearings changed. Run-in oil was Liqui-Moly 10W60. Bearing wears look great, but now needs to figure where the extra sodium are coming from - hopefully not from those sodium filled valves
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      01-15-2019, 12:08 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
Got my first report back after rod bearings changed. Run-in oil was Liqui-Moly 10W60. Bearing wears look great, but now needs to figure where the extra sodium are coming from - hopefully not from those sodium filled valves
I have same readings on sodium for the first oil analysts. There was a minor radiator leak I fixed and sodium went down a bit. I'm trying to figure high sodium issue since my first oil analysis.
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      01-15-2019, 12:31 PM   #66
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There was a minor radiator leak I fixed and sodium went down a bit.
I wonder how sodium coming from coolant from a radiator leak can find its way to motoroil.....
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