ESS VT2-500 Supercharger Kit Installed! Impressions, pictures, video.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

Question for the other guys with a Vortech blower: does your S/C sound louder/rattly when engaging the clutch in first gear? That is, even louder than at idle. I usually engage with the motor around 1,000RPM, and my S/C makes quite a lot of noise in the (relatively brief) process. I can probably get a recording of this if it doesn't sound familiar.

I'm not completely satisfied my S/C is as tightly bolted down as it should be, as I have noticed a concerning vibration that sometimes develops after 5,000RPM and increases with engine speed. It's frustrating that this vibration is not always present, and when present, may be of varying intensity. When I first noticed it a while ago, I thought it was probably the A/C compressor as I had it on, though to me it would be insane if the car doesn't disconnect the compressor when going WOT (even my 1988 Supra did this, but I don't know for sure whether our cars do or not).

im not experiencing the blower noise, mine i silent now at anything other then idle which is the whhhhhhhhoooooooosssssshhhhhhh noise.... as the s/c bolts are so easy to access id throw alittle more Tq at them BUT... if this was the problem it wouldnt be intermittant.... it would be their constantly, look to see if your belt tension is loosened off, mine always does after a new belt....

sorry to hear about your family bro.... im thinking off you.... it seems we all got shit going on in our lifes..... problems with just different shit....

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

my clutch/flywheel has been rattling sometimes when engaging/disengaging but that was even before the blower. Maybe thats what you're hearing.

specifically, I THINK the flywheel is making a short rattling sound when I'm in 1st gear about to park, and I press the clutch pedal in to come to a stop

I know exactly what you're talking about; my 2007 350Z always did this since I bought it new, though I didn't notice it as much on my 1988 Supra that had a Stage 4 clutch (wouldn't exactly recommend it, but it was an interesting way to learn stick haha). I am almost certain that it is due to the springs on the clutch that take some of the load particularly during engagement of differing engine and driveline speeds--it seems there is some play that allows it to oscillate from one direction to the other before coming to rest once some tension is abruptly relieved by disengaging the clutch. The compressed springs under pressure until disengagement are what launch it in to that motion, which the springs exchange with alternating rotation of the disc.

I could be wrong, but this is what I always thought that noise is. Unfortunately, the one I refer to is completely different, so I will have to look into it. I may even have a recording that demonstrates it, when pulling out of my parking garage at work.

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Beedub

im not experiencing the blower noise, mine i silent now at anything other then idle which is the whhhhhhhhoooooooosssssshhhhhhh noise.... as the s/c bolts are so easy to access id throw alittle more Tq at them BUT... if this was the problem it wouldnt be intermittant.... it would be their constantly, look to see if your belt tension is loosened off, mine always does after a new belt....

sorry to hear about your family bro.... im thinking off you.... it seems we all got shit going on in our lifes..... problems with just different shit....

Alright, something is probably royally fucked then. While my blower did seem to quiet down at idle after changing the fluid, it really doesn't seem all that quiet even now.

Since space in the kit is probably at its tightest around there, any tips on what to check? I have never fully observed how the S/C is mounted to the engine, because it surprisingly isn't obvious (and I haven't needed to care).

[d k]

Have you checked your throw out bearing? I know its off topic, but the way you describe it.....could be?

D

[iPhoneEngineer]

I have good reason to believe it is the S/C for a couple of reasons:

- It's strongly RPM-dependent. Looking at the tach more the last time I left my parking garage at work where it's especially noticeable because of the echo, it seems loudest around 1,200RPM during the 1st-gear engagement. Once engaged, though, the sound isn't noticeable. It seems to be related to the vibration and other effects of the clutch engagement itself. However, the same thing causing the noise may also be what sometimes produces a noticeable vibration at higher engine speeds. Since the kit has been leaking boost substantially above 6kRPM, I haven't been operating the engine at those speeds almost at all.
- It seems to come directly from that part of the engine compartment, from what I can tell from having driven my car quite a bit in different scenarios where objects around the car help reflect the sound from one part more than another
- It started the day the S/C kit was installed. It may be worse with the new "9psi" pulley, and/or recently; I can't be sure.

I'd like to check the torque on everything related just to be sure...

[ZStig]

Its does seem to be pointing in that direction : /

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

I have good reason to believe it is the S/C for a couple of reasons:

- It's strongly RPM-dependent. Looking at the tach more the last time I left my parking garage at work where it's especially noticeable because of the echo, it seems loudest around 1,200RPM during the 1st-gear engagement.
- It seems to come directly from that part of the engine compartment, from what I can tell from having driven my car quite a bit in different scenarios where objects around the car help reflect the sound from one part more than another
- It started the day the S/C kit was installed. It may be worse with the new "9psi" pulley, and/or recently; I can't be sure.

I'd like to check the torque on everything related just to be sure...

just one note, is the pulley bolt nice and tight??

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Beedub

just one note, is the pulley bolt nice and tight??

I will recheck this tonight (carpooled with my GF today), but it was as tight as the belt tension would allow when I installed it. The other pulley was "loose" enough to remove by the belt tension alone, too, so I figured I didn't want to make any special effort to hold the pulley still and tighten it further for the new one either.

[iPhoneEngineer]

Checked the S/C:

- Pulley bolt was not loose, but I was able to tighten it just barely using belt tension alone--enough for it to make a sort of "crack" noise just from breaking loose a bit. Just a few degrees of tightening. To be safe, I went ahead and gripped the belt around the pulley and tightened a little bit more.
- The large external torx bolts that appear to secure the S/C to the black anodized mount in the front (highly custom milled shape) were already very tight and I wasn't able to tighten any of them further even with quite a lot of hand-judged torque.
- Belt tension certainly isn't unreasonably loose, but I don't know exactly what to expect either. Possible that the tensioner is weaker than it should be...
- I literally cannot see how the black anodized part is secured to the engine, and suspect if anything's loose, it's that. Any tips?

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

Checked the S/C:

- Pulley bolt was not loose, but I was able to tighten it just barely using belt tension alone--enough for it to make a sort of "crack" noise just from breaking loose a bit. Just a few degrees of tightening. To be safe, I went ahead and gripped the belt around the pulley and tightened a little bit more.
- The large external torx bolts that appear to secure the S/C to the black anodized mount in the front (highly custom milled shape) were already very tight and I wasn't able to tighten any of them further even with quite a lot of hand-judged torque.
- Belt tension certainly isn't unreasonably loose, but I don't know exactly what to expect either. Possible that the tensioner is weaker than it should be...
- I literally cannot see how the black anodized part is secured to the engine, and suspect if anything's loose, it's that. Any tips?

the black anodised bracket is held on by 2 VERY LONG bolts if you look at the top of the alternator you'll see the top bolt, i think they are behind the 2 metal roller wheels on the anodised bracket, i very much doubt these are loose......... try and wobble the anodised mount, what are you getting??

[iPhoneEngineer]

Sweet relief: after driving to work this morning I believe I isolated the cause, which explains a lot. I think it is the plastic intake tube, which is too close to the body of the car, and at very specific engine speeds the vibration is just enough for it to rapidly tap on the body and make the sound. This even explains why it is worse during clutch engagement--the engine is torquing more than the mere idle vibration. However, it says nothing about the mostly non-audible vibration I feel through the stick at higher engine speeds.../sometimes/.

When the kit was first installed, that tube was rotated too high and hit the hood when the engine torqued under load--I don't know how to very precisely get a happy medium where it doesn't hit anything, but will try adjusting it away from the body slightly and expect that will make a difference with this noise.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

Sweet relief: after driving to work this morning I believe I isolated the cause, which explains a lot. I think it is the plastic intake tube, which is too close to the body of the car, and at very specific engine speeds the vibration is just enough for it to rapidly tap on the body and make the sound. This even explains why it is worse during clutch engagement--the engine is torquing more than the mere idle vibration. However, it says nothing about the mostly non-audible vibration I feel through the stick at higher engine speeds.../sometimes/.

When the kit was first installed, that tube was rotated too high and hit the hood when the engine torqued under load--I don't know how to very precisely get a happy medium where it doesn't hit anything, but will try adjusting it away from the body slightly and expect that will make a difference with this noise.

This ones really easy.... Ive spent literally night after night moving and testing the best position.... If u remember i warned everyone about the tight clearance on my install advice....

As soon as i can get to my laptop i will post up detailed instructions on how to position this....

[Beedub]

iphone, if you get the intake tiight upto the suspension turret but not touching but id say 1/2 a centremetre away, make sure the intake is Squarely on the compressor side, they have a tendancy to fit squewed to one side, kit this nice and square first, once its nicely seated on the s/c and sitting right get it nice and tight upto the suspension strut and you'll find this doesnt rub at all, when the engine moves/tq's it moves AWAY from the strut so dont worry about it being tight.... i really hope this helps and i hugely appologise for the long delay in posting this.......

hows the car?? hows things, and more importantly, hows life??

[ZStig]

Whats the diameter of your 9psi pulley?

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

Whats the diameter of your 9psi pulley?

9psi is 79mm.......

[ZStig]

a new pulley is $80.

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/view.php?pcat=6

I also like their upgraded versions, to prevent slip

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

a new pulley is $80.

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/view.php?pcat=6

I also like their upgraded versions, to prevent slip

wheres the upgraded versions???

[ZStig]

the 8 rib setups...

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

the 8 rib setups...

arhh i see what you mean...... im pleased to report ive never had belt slip.... @ the pulley size im using its just not an issue..... think vt3 runs 8rib

[BIMMERGUY91]

mmm tempting

[iPhoneEngineer]

Update: despite the new Turbo S, I've decided to keep the Z4M as the commuter and track day car.

It still has issues with the ESS VT2-500 kit, as shockingly, it was never possible to find the leak. I'm planning on sending it in to ESS so they can effectively dismantle and reassemble the entire kit. While they are willing to do that for free--very thankfully--it will cost at least $1100 round-trip to ship the car (even on an open carrier, which I'm not excited about). So basically the entire installation cost is being doubled anyway, despite the free labor from ESS.

The car will be sent off near the end of April or beginning of May, but either way I won't have it back until May 27th or after since I will be out of town for a couple weeks before that.

[ZStig]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

Update: despite the new Turbo S, I've decided to keep the Z4M as the commuter and track day car.

It still has issues with the ESS VT2-500 kit, as shockingly, it was never possible to find the leak. I'm planning on sending it in to ESS so they can effectively dismantle and reassemble the entire kit. While they are willing to do that for free--very thankfully--it will cost at least $1100 round-trip to ship the car (even on an open carrier, which I'm not excited about). So basically the entire installation cost is being doubled anyway, despite the free labor from ESS.

The car will be sent off near the end of April or beginning of May, but either way I won't have it back until May 27th or after since I will be out of town for a couple weeks before that.

since its not MY money, thats really good to hear! No sense in running a half assed car