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07-22-2013, 01:55 PM | #1 |
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Loud engine and ticking on M
I know that the M's are loud motor but this is really loud since I've gotten it to run. Any inputs, it could be the belts but I'm hearing it coming close to t
he exhaust headers as well. Last edited by Chee_Dog; 07-22-2013 at 03:23 PM.. |
07-22-2013, 03:22 PM | #3 |
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hmmm not sure, it sounds too metalic to be exhaust leak... could be wrong however....
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07-22-2013, 05:50 PM | #5 | |
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When were the valves adjusted? |
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07-22-2013, 06:24 PM | #7 |
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Motor Mount bolts broken perhaps?
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07-22-2013, 08:06 PM | #8 |
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Get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to different parts of the engine. Probably the easiest way to locate a sound.
Also, what work was done to get it running? Did it sound like that before the work was performed? Usually the last thing done to the car before the car started making this noise is a good place to start. |
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07-22-2013, 09:16 PM | #10 |
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Sounds like my old S52 when the VANOS was on the way out... Haven't heard an S54 w/ the VANOS tick before... so can't say for sure.
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07-23-2013, 02:06 PM | #13 |
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it sounds consistent with the engine rev, when rev it increase, when idle it is stable. I don't think it's the water pump, don't hear noise from there, it sounds like it is really coming from the header side/head and maybe by the header. I did also notie a rubber burning smell coming from behind the engine, it could be the heat shield burning though. Will get more videos. |
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07-23-2013, 03:22 PM | #15 |
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I would do a valve adjustment first as the car is at 30k. Check if any codes exists. Front passenger side engine is timing chain tensioner. You can remove it to see if it is functioning properly. Seem like that is where the noise is coming from.
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07-23-2013, 04:02 PM | #16 | |
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good piont, i was on youtube looking up noise from similar TCT problems and they sound similar. I might have to replace that before taking it in for a valve adjustment since it seems much more complex then what i could do. Any good site for a new TCT? |
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07-23-2013, 06:39 PM | #19 | |
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...05&hg=11&fg=25 I usually get my parts from getBMWparts. FCP Euro is another place I source some parts. Valve adjustment is not that hard. All needed tools are in many DIYs out there. You can check all the valves and order the shims from dealer. You are not driving the car at this time. |
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07-23-2013, 07:37 PM | #20 | |
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07-23-2013, 08:27 PM | #21 |
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Not a "How-To", but just to point out there there are two different tensioners - one is simple and one a little more involved. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=31094
Honestly, it's hard to tell from sound clips and I'm not a veteran car guy (quickly learning). When I picked up my car last year, I assumed it was due for a valve adjustment. it was quite noisy "like a diesel", as it's often said. After adjustment, it sound totally different. Hard to say now, but yours sound like it could just be that simple - enough valves that need adjusting. I'd start there before spending a bunch of money on possible items - you know it needs that. Based on price and working with a trusted mechanic, you could determine if replacing anything else while it's opened is worthwhile (like the upper TCT). I don't think you need body panels for a valve adjustment |
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07-23-2013, 08:49 PM | #22 |
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I see you're rebuilding this, so maybe you can drive it for a valve adjustment. Maybe try to reseat the spark plugs, just to be sure. I assume it wasn't this loud prior to the crash?
What was wrong with it after the crash that you had to replace the CAI/plugs/coils/belts? Perhaps that will clue in some ideas of what might cause this. |
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