Euro headers, what's needed?

[RossBMWZseries]

Another stupid question: does the battery (ground) need to be unplugged while doing the install to swap out headers and S pipe, or mainly due to unplugging the O2's and EGT sensor?

[pokeybritches]

I would do it out of habit.

[Reborn_]

Battery unplug would only be for disconnecting o2 sensors. If you are simply messing with mechanical things, there is no real reason to disconnect the battery.

As an aside, I failed my sniffer test (california) miserably, and ended up going with a "guy" for $300 to get my smog done so I could register my new car. It was touch and go, and very stressful with the shadiness. Next time, I'm not going to be lazy and just throw the stock stuff on for smog. This is with the Euro header and DKF section 1 with 300 cell cats.

[pokeybritches]

I believe DKF has a new attachment coming out that utilizes larger 200 cell cats.

[RossBMWZseries]

Ok thank you both for confirming. $300 is a lot of money man. I'm gonna install euro headers with DKF section 1 w/300 cell cats. I hope I don't have the same issue, then again I'm in Texas, and I have a "guy" that will charge me about $30 to pass the inspection.

Another issue I ran into: the headers look a bit rusted on the collector, specially where the gasket (ring) is (11627830668). Are these supposed to just come off? Are we supposed to force them off? They're pretty stuck on there, to the point where one of them looks like it could be welded. Anything I could use to pull it apart?

[RossBMWZseries]

Anyone?

[itdnwiwbp]

On the CSL headers I have in my garage awaiting install I had to carefully pound the gasket rings off a little at a time using a screwdriver and a mallet. Didn't cause any damage but mine weren't rusted or in bad shape.

[RossBMWZseries]

That's horrible. I'm afraid I'll damage the headers. I bought some liquid spray can at autozone for rusted bolts, nuts, and "pipes", however, It is flammable. It says not to expose to any flames or heat over 120F, that's talking about the can though. I know the exhaust pipes can get really hot, but it wouldn't be any open flame. Is this a stupid move or should I refrain from using this stuff?

[Reborn_]

It SHOULD evaporate before you actually get any exhaust gases in there. I would wipe it off for good measure.

[Jumbosock]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

That's horrible. I'm afraid I'll damage the headers. I bought some liquid spray can at autozone for rusted bolts, nuts, and "pipes", however, It is flammable. It says not to expose to any flames or heat over 120F, that's talking about the can though. I know the exhaust pipes can get really hot, but it wouldn't be any open flame. Is this a stupid move or should I refrain from using this stuff?

If you want, post a pic for our input.

[David70]

Very common to use penetrating oil, WD-40, or some type of liquid to remove exhaust manifold bolts. Wipe it off before re installing and there isn't a problem. Their warning has more to do with an open flame or spraying it on while the engine is running or just turned off.

[RossBMWZseries]

Thank you all for your input. I sprayed the whole can and with a few hits I was able to remove both gaskets from each pipe.
Another possible problem; the flange on bank 1(long header, I believe that's bank 1), looks like the flange is welded on to the actual pipe. On bank 2, it's not welded, it moves, barely due to the rust, but bank 1 seems to be welded. I've seen pics of US spec OEM headers and bank 1 looks like it's got the flange welded as well. Can anyone confirm this? I might be trying to do the impossible here, attempting to remove a weld with rust liquid!

[Reborn_]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

Thank you all for your input. I sprayed the whole can and with a few hits I was able to remove both gaskets from each pipe.
Another possible problem; the flange on bank 1(long header, I believe that's bank 1), looks like the flange is welded on to the actual pipe. On bank 2, it's not welded, it moves, barely due to the rust, but bank 1 seems to be welded. I've seen pics of US spec OEM headers and bank 1 looks like it's got the flange welded as well. Can anyone confirm this? I might be trying to do the impossible here, attempting to remove a weld with rust liquid!

Are you working on US headers or Euro? I've got my US ones handy and can inspect and snap pics for you tomorrow, if that is what you are dealing with.

[RossBMWZseries]

Well technically I'll be working on both (removing US headers to install the Euro headers). If you can do that for me Reborn I'd appreciate it.

[Reborn_]

So the following info and pics are from the US-spec header. It looks like the longer header has the flange welded, and the shorter header looks like the flange is not welded (though it could be spot welded and not visible, I suppose).

Longer header:


Shorter header:

[RossBMWZseries]

Awesome Reborn!! I knew it was freakin welded but the rust didn't allow it to be that visible. Apparently the longer header on the euro spec is also welded. Thank you for taking the time to snap and post these pics reborn, truly appreciated!

[Reborn_]

Any time man. Good luck with the install.

[Gt4]

I have a set of OEM euro cats and euro headers if anyone is interested

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096670

[RossBMWZseries]

Thank you Reborn, but I don't think I'll be doing the install after all, I just crashed... AGAIN..

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

Thank you Reborn, but I don't think I'll be doing the install after all, I just crashed... AGAIN..

WTH, time to start pedalling or taking the bus, you got some bad luck going on

[Reborn_]

Ouch! Sorry to hear that bud.

[pokeybritches]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

Thank you Reborn, but I don't think I'll be doing the install after all, I just crashed... AGAIN..

Ouch, that sucks! FWIW, you can do the s-pipe now and wait on the headers until you get the funds.