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      09-02-2017, 09:42 PM   #1
Andyh1
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Vanos bolts - next on the list

I'm gathering info to get this done on my 03/06 built z4MR with 28k miles.

1. Do I have all the pats I need?
2. Best place to purchase as a kit if avail.?
3. There is no way I can do this so I will rely on my Indy. How many hours should this take?
4. Looking at getting my valves adjusted while it's opened up.


- 1 Vanos Gasket 11367831938
- 1 Vanos Solenoid Gasket 11367831906
- 1 Vanos Filter 11361401971
- 12 Bolts to replace 07129905536 (Part number 07119919965 was superseded by part number 07129905536.)
- 2 copper vanos gasket rings 07119963072
- Hi temp gasket sealant
- Blue Loctitext
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      09-02-2017, 09:50 PM   #2
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This is your definitive guide for what's required to do a VANOS re-seal:

Beisan's walk-through

Check your parts against this procedure.

That being said, while you're in there, I would strongly recommend doing the VANOS oil pump and rattle repair as well. Note that the Beisan rattle fix kit does not include the new VANOS pressure plates / springs, but the rattle fix walk-through includes required parts. This mostly because if your VANOS oil pump tabs break, you will have a Bad Time, the rattle is irritating as hell, Beisan's rattle-fix kit + the S65 VANOS pressure plate / springs are cheap, and you don't want to have the VANOS unit pulled again if you don't have to.
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      09-04-2017, 09:05 AM   #3
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Andy, it sounds like our cars were manufactured at the same time. I had 30K when I bought mine, and now I'm up to 49K. I would highly recommend doing as Matt suggested and do the entire vanos rebuild while you're in there. Raj at Beisan is an awesome guy. His kits address all of the known failures in the Vanos if your exhaust hub tabs are still intact. If you purchase all of Beisan's kits, it will be $450 after the cores are returned, and that will give you the anti-rattle, the oil disk with the smaller holes to prevent future exhaust hub tab failure, solenoid fix, seals, sealing plate upgrades to Viton, etc. You also need the upper chain guide and there are some washers that go along with it. All of the BMW parts needed are listed in the Beisan S54 procedure guide found on his site. If your tabs are already broken on your exhaust hub, you will need to either replace that with an OEM exhaust hub, a Dr. Vanos cryo treated hub, or you can get Dr. Vanos D300 or Turbotoy's hub with the beefier tabs. If you go with the beefier tab hub, then you would use the original oil disk and not the Beisan.

Some ideas on cost...
So, if you do all of the Beisan kits and your hub is intact, you're looking at ~$450 after core refund. If you also get his inexpensive tools, you're basically looking at $1000 upfront (including tax and shipping) with $450 coming off after core exchange of the solenoid and oil disk hub.

You also need some BMW parts. If you are changing your oil at the same time, you're looking at ~$350 including the oil. This varies a bit depending on if you plan to replace the valve cover gasket and other seals in that area. The $350 will get you the better spring set/plate that was designed for the S65, all of the various washers, replacement gaskets, chain guide, etc. and it includes a $45 shorter alignment pin that is needed on the Z4M. Your indy may have that pin or fudge it with an allen key or something similar, but it's something to keep in mind. The indy will also need the timing bridge, but they probably have that. If not, it can be rented.

Labor is interesting. I've seen a lot of variation here. I had one guy quote nearly $7000 for everything. LOL I had another indy tell me $600 for labor, but the overall quote was $4K. That $4K quote did include an $800 exhaust hub. Another quoted $800 for labor, but parts were only about $880 including a full oil change kit. So, you can imagine the one that I preferred. :-)

I see you're listed as Houston, TX in your profile. Best of luck with the recovery down your way.

Salty
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      09-04-2017, 09:12 AM   #4
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Andy, you asked about where to order a kit. I just ordered everything not included from Beisan from ECS Tuning. They have some customizable kits where you can add/remove what you want. Search up "S54 VANOS Install Kit" on their site.

Here is the short alignment pin part number:
83300495528

Salty
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      09-04-2017, 10:03 AM   #5
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Awesome. Intel guys....this is something I'm planning on doing within the next 45 days.
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      10-27-2017, 03:01 PM   #6
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I was shopping for light bulbs for the house on Amazon, and at the bottom of the page was "Based on your browsing history:"
S54 CPV Service Kit with Viton O-Rings and Drag Link Slotted Socket Bit

Amazon - Wow.
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      10-27-2017, 09:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Amazon - Wow.
They are going to take over the world. That is impressive.

Salty
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      10-28-2017, 03:13 PM   #8
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When I see "Based on your browsing history:
Bacon wrapped sausages in butter sauce.
Frequently purchased together:
Bacon wrapped sausages + Bud Light 12-pack
Delivered TODAY with Amazon Prime!"

I'll never have to leave the house again.
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      11-04-2017, 10:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
When I see "Based on your browsing history:
Bacon wrapped sausages in butter sauce.
Frequently purchased together:
Bacon wrapped sausages + Bud Light 12-pack
Delivered TODAY with Amazon Prime!"

I'll never have to leave the house again.


There are a lot of Amazon haters out there but when I get my toilet paper delivered to my front door cheaper than cosco/Sam's.... It's a winner.
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      11-21-2017, 10:46 AM   #10
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Hey Salty,

We're your Hub tabs broken than? Mine were intact at my last valve adjustment so i think they are still good and I'm trying to decide if I just want to get the Beisan pump disc with the smaller holes and keep my current hub or also replace the hub just in case my current one has any damage that I can't see. The turbotoy hub is out of my price range. Not sure what a new OEM hub would cost, I can't seem to find the part on Real OEM.
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      11-21-2017, 11:42 AM   #11
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Part #2. Comes with the spline pin. Costs more than the TurboToy.
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      11-21-2017, 12:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Part #2. Comes with the spline pin. Costs more than the TurboToy.
Dam, I guess I won't be doing the OEM hub. Perhaps I'll just do a thorough inspection of mine before determining what to do next. If it's bad than i'll probably go with the turbotoy one with the beefier larger tabs. That's seems like a more rock solid solution than OEM hub anyways
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      12-01-2017, 04:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milamookie View Post
Dam, I guess I won't be doing the OEM hub. Perhaps I'll just do a thorough inspection of mine before determining what to do next. If it's bad than i'll probably go with the turbotoy one with the beefier larger tabs. That's seems like a more rock solid solution than OEM hub anyways
I've been checking vanos exhaust hub with each valve adjustment like many of us do. My hub still looks good. I been researching this as I need to do this soon. Dr. Vano have cryo treated hub for $900 after core returned. I was leaning toward this as it is closest to OE. I am going to order Beisan kit as this is the most economic solution. My understanding (correct me if I am wrong) is the free play that causes exhaust hub tab to break.
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      12-01-2017, 04:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobMCoupe View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by milamookie View Post
Dam, I guess I won't be doing the OEM hub. Perhaps I'll just do a thorough inspection of mine before determining what to do next. If it's bad than i'll probably go with the turbotoy one with the beefier larger tabs. That's seems like a more rock solid solution than OEM hub anyways
I've been checking vanos exhaust hub with each valve adjustment like many of us do. My hub still looks good. I been researching this as I need to do this soon. Dr. Vano have cryo treated hub for $900 after core returned. I was leaning toward this as it is closest to OE. I am going to order Beisan kit as this is the most economic solution. My understanding (correct me if I am wrong) is the free play that causes exhaust hub tab to break.
The Beisan re-drilled pump disc is probably the way to go if you're sure that your hub tabs are good. The question is whether a visual inspection will help you come to that conclusion. I remember in engineering school that we would examine metals under a high powered microscope to check for cracks. I have a can of Spotcheck spray that i plan on using to help identify any cracks on the hub after i remove it. If all is good I'll install the Beisan Re-drilled pump disc.

For me, $900 for an exhaust hub is a hard pill to swallow but I guess if it stops a catastrophe from happening than it's worth it.
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      12-01-2017, 08:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milamookie View Post
Hey Salty,

We're your Hub tabs broken than? Mine were intact at my last valve adjustment so i think they are still good and I'm trying to decide if I just want to get the Beisan pump disc with the smaller holes and keep my current hub or also replace the hub just in case my current one has any damage that I can't see. The turbotoy hub is out of my price range. Not sure what a new OEM hub would cost, I can't seem to find the part on Real OEM.
Hey man, sorry I missed your question. My tabs were fine. Raj said he hasn't had any reports of tabs failing after using the Beisan pump disk with the smaller holes even though surely some tabs had been weakened before the Beisan pump disk was installed. I was prepared to get a cryo treated hub if it had been broken, but was glad to save the bucks.

Salty
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      12-02-2017, 02:31 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobMCoupe View Post
Dr. Vano have cryo treated hub (sic) for $900 after core returned.
I dunno. The C300 (TurboToy) hub is only $800.
What's a better bet? Cryo, or Beef!
Bias alert, I have the C300. I like beef!
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      12-02-2017, 06:45 AM   #17
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I was expecting to see my oil pump disc holes peened by the tabs, and some sign the tabs had been smacking the walls of the holes, but everything on mine looked pristine. Maybe it is driving style. Maybe luck of the draw. The main thing is to eliminate the slop in the interface, so fat tabs in big holes or OEM tabs in small holes does the trick.The main thing is to make sure you've got a tight hole for whatever size unit you have.

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      12-02-2017, 01:22 PM   #18
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A coupe of us have a theory that blipping might be a factor.
Rapid acceleration/deceleration of the hub.
I blip downshift all the time, and sometimes I blip just for the fun of blipping.
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      12-02-2017, 02:35 PM   #19
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I am about to embark this Vanos DIY in coming week, I bought all the tools required less the box with 4 switches but have some Questions for experienced hands.

1)-Do I remove whole fan supporting metal frames to begin the job? There is about an inch of gap between it and the Vanos unit. What do I need to remove other than obvious plastic cover with BMW emblem on it?

-Some say removing engine and tranny mount and jacking it up to be able to pull the Vanos? I do not want to go this way.

2)I bought the S54 Cam Alignment tool kit which comes with TDC crankshaft lock pin, And I read that these need to be cut to fit on our E85/6 cars due to lack of space? Is this true, shall I go to the machine shop to cut the pin 2/3 of way?

Any other things to watch for other than dropping sockets and bolts into oil pan, and taking it slow at a time will be appreciated.

Thanks !
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      12-02-2017, 02:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyh1 View Post
I'm gathering info to get this done on my 03/06 built z4MR with 28k miles.

1. Do I have all the pats I need?
2. Best place to purchase as a kit if avail.?
3. There is no way I can do this so I will rely on my Indy. How many hours should this take?
4. Looking at getting my valves adjusted while it's opened up.


- 1 Vanos Gasket 11367831938
- 1 Vanos Solenoid Gasket 11367831906
- 1 Vanos Filter 11361401971
- 12 Bolts to replace 07129905536 (Part number 07119919965 was superseded by part number 07129905536.)
- 2 copper vanos gasket rings 07119963072
- Hi temp gasket sealant
- Blue Loctitext

This is straight out from my spread sheets.

Items Total
S54 Vanos Seals Repair Kit Item # BS021, $60 $60.00
S54 Vanos Rattle Repair Kit Item # BS022, $80 $80.00
S54 Vanos Sealing Plate Repair Kit Item # BS024, $10* $10.00
S54 Vanos Oil Pump Disk Item # BS025, $150 + $300 refundable core charge $150.00
$300.00


Valve cover gasket: 11127832034 (1) $62.62
Spark plug seals: 11127831271 (6) $54.00
Rubber seals: 11127830972 (13) $39.00
Rubber seals: 11121437395 (2) $2.60
Copper o-rings large: 07119963129 (2) $2.00
Copper o-rings small: 07119963072 (2) $2.00
Vanos filter: 11361401971 (1) $12.95 29.93
Vanos steel gasket: 11367831938 (1) $15.33 9.95
Camshaft bolts: 07129905536 (12) $12.00 23.76
Upper chain guide 11317830159 (1) $26.37
Chain guide bolt washer 07119963342 (1) $1.04
Chain tensioner washer 07119963418 (1) $1.13
$231.04

Optionally (6) Spark plugs and (2) S62 Diaphgram spring sets, and Beisan Upgraded Vanos solenoid

I decided to do the job myself but reputable Indy here in Los Angeles quoted 6hrs + possible Alpha (Valve for 1.5hr and rattle kit etc) Which I found pretty reasonable.
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      12-02-2017, 02:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexhittinbull View Post
I am about to embark this Vanos DIY in coming week, I bought all the tools required less the box with 4 switches but have some Questions for experienced hands.

1)-Do I remove whole fan supporting metal frames to begin the job? There is about an inch of gap between it and the Vanos unit. What do I need to remove other than obvious plastic cover with BMW emblem on it?

-Some say removing engine and tranny mount and jacking it up to be able to pull the Vanos? I do not want to go this way.

2)I bought the S54 Cam Alignment tool kit which comes with TDC crankshaft lock pin, And I read that these need to be cut to fit on our E85/6 cars due to lack of space? Is this true, shall I go to the machine shop to cut the pin 2/3 of way?

Any other things to watch for other than dropping sockets and bolts into oil pan, and taking it slow at a time will be appreciated.

Thanks !
You need to remove the fan but you don't need to remove the frame structure. No need to jack up the engine either. The below link will take you to a document where I compiled a post from Kapt. His original photo links weren't working so I just put it into one clean document. It explains the process specific to the Z4M, I plan on using this with the Beisan write ups to do the job this coming spring..

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...PLgtZFOI5g1QJI
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      12-02-2017, 03:17 PM   #22
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milamookie, Thank you so so much! I read the posts so many times but it lacked pictures and lost. Thank you Thank you!
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