Strong Strut Bars Installation Tips

[Nhopkins1394]

Here's mine.
Paul was right. Install took about 30 minutes...but then I actually read the whole set of instructions. I mean, what the heck, this was my first mod to my little Z4.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

Strut tower nuts:
34Nm (25.07ft/lbs)

Still looking for the two tower to firewall braces numbers.

Found it.

Vehicles manufactured until May 2006 (using old bracket shape) installed. Identified with an M10 nut bolt welded into holder: 41Nm (30ft/lbs)

Vehicles manufactured after May 2006 (using new bracket type) installed. Identified with nut welded on bottom. Install new M10 screw: 56Nm (41ft/lbs) plus 105degrees +- 15 degrees of rotation.
Screws must NOT be reused.

I could not find the braces info in the normal tightening torque pages. I had to go to the special SI repair instructions for eliminating creaking and percussive noises from the front of the car.

^thanks Ship.
Looks like I need to pick up new bolts.

[XMetal]

Does anyone know the smaller flange nut part number that will fit the recessed cutout of the tower rings? I would preferred to use a flange nut over the supplied acorn nuts.

[jmillet]

Originally Posted by XMetal

Does anyone know the smaller flange nut part number that will fit the recessed cutout of the tower rings? I would preferred to use a flange nut over the supplied acorn nuts.

Look here:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...8&postcount=28

[XMetal]

Thanks for the link. Did you use that E46 strut brace nut on your strong strut? The OEM tower rings appears to be thicker than the strong strut, so I'm not sure if the "reach through" portion is too tall for the strong strut's tower ring?

[THE JEDI]

I was thinking of doing this...but I got a question for you guys..hope you can help...I just got my z4 out of the shop and they changed the control arm bushings..I had a thump coming from both sides....well the thump is still on the right..side I called the dealer as soon as I got home..he said he couldn't see me till the 13....I'm thinking they didn't tighten the Bushings or I need new shocks..or strut tower might be worn....what do you guys think...OPINIONS PLEASE. PS. I'm not going to drive her I gotta drive the Van...

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by XMetal

Thanks for the link. Did you use that E46 strut brace nut on your strong strut? The OEM tower rings appears to be thicker than the strong strut, so I'm not sure if the "reach through" portion is too tall for the strong strut's tower ring?

You could use a washer(s) so that the "reach through" doesn't bottom out.
Also, you could grind part of the "reach through" off.

...keep us posted if you experiment with this.

[Z4MHawk]

How are you guys handling the Strut Tower alignment pen? On my 06 the pen is taller than the cut out on the strong Strut strut tower mounting ring. When I installed them there was a little compression/lap over the pin, but not enough to significnatly bend the strut tower ring. I could have used washers to raise the ring up but didn't want to modify the design.

Also, The ESS VT1 has a vent tube that rubs under the center of the strut tower brace that needed just a little groove seat. No big deal and does not compromise the strength of the brace. Storng Strut did cut out a space there I decided that it needed a special groove.

I will include pictures tonight to show the issues.

[inTgr8r]

^ you need to pull out the alignment pin.

[Beedub]

iwantacookie.............my oem bar comes into contact with no part of my vt1 install.... pics please?????

[XMetal]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

You could use a washer(s) so that the "reach through" doesn't bottom out.
Also, you could grind part of the "reach through" off.

...keep us posted if you experiment with this.

One of the main reason I wanted to use the flange nut is to avoid using washers. Also, using too many washers will leave less contact threads. I would experiment with grinding off part of the "reach through" if those nuts weren't so expensive

I was hoping to find the part number for the smaller flange nut without the "reach through"...no luck so far.

[Z4MHawk]

I used a new set of flange nuts on all the OEM threaded studs. I was concerned that since the alignment holes allow some movement for fit that the flange nuts would keep the holes centered and I did not like using washers to keep the flange caps from topping out. The main drawback is that one of the holes was not centered and a small amount of powder coating was compromised. I guess I could have ground off a little bit of the tapered edge to avoid this.

I have since removed the alignment pins and everything is seated properly.

[BAK613]

Just finished installing my Strong-Strut tower bar and firewall braces.

I did not run into any problems with the tower mounting hardware clearing the firewall brace attach point, they laid even & flat. Used 1 washer for each acorn nut, as specified.

On the Firewall braces however, I installed the 2 washers per stud that were supplied, screwed on the acorn nuts to hand-tight and there was a pretty big gap between the nut and the washers. I don't know if the stud would actually have bottomed in the acorn nut, but decided to add a third washer...everything tightened up fine.

Overall very nice!!

[Diokaef]

Very risk what you are doing^

[XMetal]

Originally Posted by Iwantacookie!

I used a new set of flange nuts on all the OEM threaded studs. I was concerned that since the alignment holes allow some movement for fit that the flange nuts would keep the holes centered and I did not like using washers to keep the flange caps from topping out. The main drawback is that one of the holes was not centered and a small amount of powder coating was compromised. I guess I could have ground off a little bit of the tapered edge to avoid this.

I have since removed the alignment pins and everything is seated properly.

Where did you get a new set of flange nuts that will fit the SS strut tower ring's recess hole?

[XMetal]

Does anyone have an issue with the cross bar hitting the air tube? At first, I thought there was something in the suspension that was loose when going over bumps. Turns out, the air tube was mashing up against the cross bar.

[XMetal]

After contacting Paul, he sent me a set of 1/16" riser shim kit for the bar. That didn't do much. I still had to "grind" a bit more off the bar to provide more clearance. So, now, even with all the "mods" made to the bar, the tube will still make minor contact with the bar, but only on really bad roads with big bumps. May be I should have just gone with the OEM bar to begin with...But the SS bars are so beautifully made

Can't believed I ran into so many issues on my car with what should be a "simple" mod. Guessed I just don't have any luck with SS

[RBull]

I had the same issue and got my SS on the recent GB. He did not want me to do any grinding/alteration to the bar. I got the 1/8" shims from them and it worked perfectly, and I don't seem to have any hood contact.

Would upload photo but photobucket format has changed and I have no idea how to use them anymore.

Sounds like this is more common issue than was indicated to me.

[Z4MHawk]

Sorry for the delay...I just caught up with these posts. I ordered a new set from BMW. The old ones seemed fine, but I was worried about reusing the old nuts. I applied a little loc-tite just to be extra certain of the fit. I also had the trouble with the x-strut hitting the air tube. Mine is slightly different since I have the ESS VT-1. Ended up shimming and grinding just like your pictures indicate.

No issues since....and everything is solid!

[reyebe]

the installation instructions direct you to remove the little alignment pins, they are no longer needed after the car is built, the robot indexes on this little pin during assembly.
The Strong-Strut tower ring will not fit correctly with the pin in place. Paul, Strong-Strut

[reyebe]

We have been reviewing the threads relating to this issue and we are surprised more owners have not contacted us directly on this, we have heard from only 3. We do not know why all of a sudden this is happening more often as we have not changed anything in the cross bar design and up until now, this has not been an issue since we machined the cut out in the back of the bar and also raised it 1/8 inch. However, we do have the the shims available for anybody that wants them and we definitely do not want or expect any customer to have to modify the bar by grinding or any other major modification. Frankly, all of this has been going on unknown to us until now. We do not routinely visit forums, there are to many of them and much too time consuming. If anybody else out there has an issue, please contact us directly and we will get it solved for you. In light of this, we will raise the bend in the bar an additional 1/8 inch in future production runs. Thank you,
Paul & the Strong-Strut Team

[RBull]

^great to see a vendor responding like this.

The only thing I didn't do is check the clearance with something like clay after installing the 1/8" shims. I did not notice any visible contact on the paint or hear anything unusual however.