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05-22-2014, 07:24 PM | #1 |
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Strut clamp spreader
I just replaced the original shocks and struts on my coupe yesterday with Bilstein HDs. When it came to spreading the clamp at the base of the steering knuckle that grips the bottom of the strut, I simply reversed the clamp bolt and inserted a 12mm thick washer (technically a "machined spacer") in the gap between the sides and tightened the bolt against it to spread the clamp. Works perfectly. I found that I also needed to detach the flexible brake line at the inboard end and remove the wheel speed sensor from the hub in order to have the range of motion necessary to insert the new strut into the knuckle.
A note of caution! Be sure to detach the actuator rod for the headlight sensor from the right control arm (10mm nut) before removing the drop link. The bottom end just pops off with the blade of a screwdriver. All in all, a fairly easy job. It took me as long to clean all of the retained components (springs, mounting plates, etc.) as it did to install the new parts. Trust BMW to be non-standard. I think this was the first time I have used 16 and 18mm sockets on a German car! |
05-23-2014, 11:24 PM | #2 |
My other car is on Mars
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Superb idea, and thanks for the tips.
I have 103k miles on my original shocks, so they've had a good run. After reading about it a bit, looks like I'm going to stay with the stock springs and put on the Bilstein HDs, unless somebody can talk me into a non-lowering coilover. You get them from Turner? What spring compressor did you use? I have a 2 piece set I bought from Harbor Freight about 20 years ago, but never used. I think I'll get something more trustworthy before attempting this. The Doctor said I'm not supposed to get springs in my eye.
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Warning: May contain traces of nuts.
Last edited by StickMon; 05-23-2014 at 11:32 PM.. |
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05-24-2014, 09:59 AM | #3 |
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I got mine from Bav Auto on sale. You need to retain and reuse the bump stops and boots on the rears but the fronts come with new ones. Note that the original struts protrude about an inch below the clamping band. When they are removed, you will see that there is a "step" at the bottom of the bore. The bottom of the Bilsteins rest on that when correctly installed. When you reinstall the clamping bolt, torque it to 60 ft#s.
When you have the old strut out, clamp the bottom end in a vise and draw down the spring enough to fully relieve the pressure on the retaining collar and nut. You need to see a little lateral movement on the spring. With the tapered stock springs, you can only really compress the center two coils but that is sufficient. Be patient and careful. I have a coupe of sets of spring compressors from other race car projects over the years. nothing unique is rehired for these as they are only used when the assembly is out of the car. When everything is apart, release the tension on the spring and clean it with alchohol followed by Armoural or detailing spray. If you are reusing the rubber top hub no reason not to for street use unless it shows cracks), be sure to force new wheel bearing grease through the ball bearings and wipe off the old stuff. A needle fitting for the grease gun if helpful for this. Remember to reinstall the thin metal cupped plate on the bottom before resembling everything on the strut shaft. A new nut is provided with the strut. You won't need to compress the spring as much for reassembly on the Bilstein. If you have a compressor, this is one project for which a pneumatic gun is perfect. |
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05-24-2014, 11:44 PM | #4 |
My other car is on Mars
635
Rep 3,124
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Thanks again for all the tips. Looks like they're still on sale. I best jump on it.
The car has 103K miles, so in addition to RE RSMs, I'll probably replace just about everything else I have to touch, especially anything rubber like bump stops, boots, and spring pads. Bilstein fronts come with bump stops under those attractive (not) blue boots?
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Warning: May contain traces of nuts.
Last edited by StickMon; 05-25-2014 at 12:18 AM.. |
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