Engine Mount Bolts

ncnmra · 09-11-2015, 11:10 AM

Does anyone have a guide, tutorial or video how to check/replace the engine mount bolts? I understand that it is possible to get at the passenger side ones without too much hassle.

I'd like to see a picture of exactly how/where they are.

David70 · 09-11-2015, 11:09 PM

Some information, then more links to go to more information -

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635649

bignosejim · 09-12-2015, 08:43 AM

Here are some pics from the driver's side. You need to remove the intake manifold to get to these.

Closer up:

You can see the front lower passenger side from the wheel well. It is supposed to be where the circle is. To get to the others you need to remove the reinforcement plate and vanos accumulator.

itdnwiwbp · 09-12-2015, 09:57 AM

I've seen recommendations on here to use 10.9 rated bolts instead of 8.8s. Are the 10.9s an upgraded/revised part that uses the same numbers? 07119905724 (6), 07119905533 (2)

bignosejim · 09-12-2015, 10:22 AM

The 10.9 grade bolts are a different part number. The link in the second post has the part number for the upgraded bolts. I don't know if they make the "motorsports" bolts anymore. However, BMW still uses those part numbers for the 10.9 grade bolt. They can be found in a variety of applications.

That being said, I'm not 100% convinced that the 10.9 grade bolts are really needed. I think that if properly torqued down the 8.8 will work also. After all, you don't hear a bunch of e46 M3 stories of motor mount bracket bolt failures. If I had gone with 8.8 bolts, I still would have gotten the nordlock washers.
I currently have the 10.9 bolts and the smaller zinc coated nordlock washers installed.

itdnwiwbp · 09-12-2015, 10:52 AM

Thanks for the info! Missed the link on my first read through.

ncnmra · 09-14-2015, 07:55 PM

Thanks for the pictures guys. I did the best I could to feel/look around to see if they were ok. Seems to be good.

What are the symptoms/worst case if these come out?

StickMon · 09-15-2015, 02:45 PM

Clunking when you get on/off the gas.
Also, the right side stock rubber mount has a limited life span.
Mine was badly cracked when I replaced it with Vibra-Technics at about 88k Miles.
Hard to see the crack because it's under the little heat shield.

nutzkicker617 · 09-15-2015, 03:42 PM

I did not need to remove the intake manifold to get to all of the bolts.

Depending on how flexible you are, how small your arms are, and what types of tools/connectors/etc you have access to, you can get to all of the bolts from the top and bottom of the car.

pokeybritches · 09-15-2015, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nutzkicker617

Depending on how flexible you are...

Twixboy · 09-15-2015, 03:55 PM

At first I thought that cow was wearing a yamaka.

The Hunter · 04-10-2017, 01:42 PM

Sorry to revive an old thread, but does anyone know how much labor would cost for an Indy to replace the engine mount bolts?

chickdr · 04-11-2017, 04:40 PM

That would vary a lot depending on how long they take which will depend on their experience and familiarity with the job. Shop rates vary as lot as well. I had mine done by a fellow board member a few years ago. It took a couple of hours. We only had to remove the airbox and reinforcement plate to get to the bolts on the drivers side. I went with the 10.9 bolts he had on hand. Several of my bolts were loose, but all were present.

phickson · 04-16-2017, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokeybritches

Leaves little to the imagination in your summation - and got a good laugh from it - thank you pokeybritches

m5m3mc · 04-16-2017, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Hunter

Sorry to revive an old thread, but does anyone know how much labor would cost for an Indy to replace the engine mount bolts?

You could do what I had my tech do. While performing a suspension transplant on my M he replaced the six bolts that were easy to reach. All the original bolts were still tight at 34k miles so I don't anticipate any issues in the future with the two remaining bolts. That is the inexpensive method but if any of the original bolts were found to have been loose I might have had all of them done.

JimBob0047 · 11-28-2018, 07:07 AM

Actual current McMaster part numbers:

You'll have to get them from McMaster, but probably more of them than you want, but hey, you can never have too much left over hardware.
You need 6 M8x25 and 2 M8x35 (where the Vanos oil accumulator bracket is attached).

Yea, you're going to get a heck of a lot more of them than you need, but they're dirt cheap.
M8x25 = 90854A167 (Sack of 25)
M8x35 = 90854A172 (Sack of 25)
Nord-Locks = 91812A430 (5 per pack, so get 2 packs.)

09-11-2015, 11:10 AM	#1
ncnmra Second Lieutenant 39 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2006 M Roadster Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Canada iTrader: (0)	Engine Mount Bolts Does anyone have a guide, tutorial or video how to check/replace the engine mount bolts? I understand that it is possible to get at the passenger side ones without too much hassle. I'd like to see a picture of exactly how/where they are.
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09-11-2015, 11:09 PM	#2
David70 Colonel 1567 Rep 2,665 Posts Drives: 06 Z4M Coupe - 13 Cadillac ATS Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Cincinnati, OH iTrader: (1)	Some information, then more links to go to more information - http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635649 __________________ 2006 Z4M Coupe - Stromung exhaust, ZHP knob, stubby antenna, clutch delay delete
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09-12-2015, 08:43 AM	#3
bignosejim Lieutenant 40 Rep 400 Posts Drives: 2007 IB M Coupe Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: DFW iTrader: (0)	Here are some pics from the driver's side. You need to remove the intake manifold to get to these. Closer up: You can see the front lower passenger side from the wheel well. It is supposed to be where the circle is. To get to the others you need to remove the reinforcement plate and vanos accumulator. __________________ /// Vibra-Technics motor mounts /// Autosolutions SSK /// RE Tranny mounts /// Aero Turbine Exhaust /// Beisan Vanos upgrades /// SDW rtabs /// Fortune Auto 500
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09-12-2015, 09:57 AM	#4
itdnwiwbp Major 78 Rep 1,443 Posts Drives: 330iZHP Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Long Beach, CA iTrader: (10)	I've seen recommendations on here to use 10.9 rated bolts instead of 8.8s. Are the 10.9s an upgraded/revised part that uses the same numbers? 07119905724 (6), 07119905533 (2) __________________
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09-12-2015, 10:22 AM	#5
bignosejim Lieutenant 40 Rep 400 Posts Drives: 2007 IB M Coupe Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: DFW iTrader: (0)	The 10.9 grade bolts are a different part number. The link in the second post has the part number for the upgraded bolts. I don't know if they make the "motorsports" bolts anymore. However, BMW still uses those part numbers for the 10.9 grade bolt. They can be found in a variety of applications. That being said, I'm not 100% convinced that the 10.9 grade bolts are really needed. I think that if properly torqued down the 8.8 will work also. After all, you don't hear a bunch of e46 M3 stories of motor mount bracket bolt failures. If I had gone with 8.8 bolts, I still would have gotten the nordlock washers. I currently have the 10.9 bolts and the smaller zinc coated nordlock washers installed. __________________ /// Vibra-Technics motor mounts /// Autosolutions SSK /// RE Tranny mounts /// Aero Turbine Exhaust /// Beisan Vanos upgrades /// SDW rtabs /// Fortune Auto 500
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09-12-2015, 10:52 AM	#6
itdnwiwbp Major 78 Rep 1,443 Posts Drives: 330iZHP Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Long Beach, CA iTrader: (10)	Thanks for the info! Missed the link on my first read through. __________________
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09-14-2015, 07:55 PM	#7
ncnmra Second Lieutenant 39 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2006 M Roadster Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Canada iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the pictures guys. I did the best I could to feel/look around to see if they were ok. Seems to be good. What are the symptoms/worst case if these come out?
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09-15-2015, 02:45 PM	#8
StickMon My other car is on Mars 636 Rep 3,124 Posts Drives: 2006 MR Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Lo-Cal iTrader: (1)	Clunking when you get on/off the gas. Also, the right side stock rubber mount has a limited life span. Mine was badly cracked when I replaced it with Vibra-Technics at about 88k Miles. Hard to see the crack because it's under the little heat shield. __________________ Warning: May contain traces of nuts.
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09-15-2015, 03:42 PM	#9
nutzkicker617 Private 28 Rep 99 Posts Drives: Z4 M Coupe Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Pasadena, CA iTrader: (0)	I did not need to remove the intake manifold to get to all of the bolts. Depending on how flexible you are, how small your arms are, and what types of tools/connectors/etc you have access to, you can get to all of the bolts from the top and bottom of the car. __________________
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09-15-2015, 03:55 PM	#11
Twixboy Captain 124 Rep 904 Posts Drives: '04 Z4 3.0i 6spd Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: MA iTrader: (2)	At first I thought that cow was wearing a yamaka.
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04-10-2017, 01:42 PM	#12
The Hunter Private 20 Rep 89 Posts Drives: 2007 Z4MC & 2006 M3 ZCP Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (0)	Sorry to revive an old thread, but does anyone know how much labor would cost for an Indy to replace the engine mount bolts?
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04-11-2017, 04:40 PM	#13
chickdr Lieutenant Colonel 140 Rep 1,989 Posts Drives: 2006 M Roadster Join Date: May 2009 Location: Buford, GA iTrader: (0)	That would vary a lot depending on how long they take which will depend on their experience and familiarity with the job. Shop rates vary as lot as well. I had mine done by a fellow board member a few years ago. It took a couple of hours. We only had to remove the airbox and reinforcement plate to get to the bolts on the drivers side. I went with the 10.9 bolts he had on hand. Several of my bolts were loose, but all were present.
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11-28-2018, 07:07 AM	#16
JimBob0047 First Lieutenant 269 Rep 382 Posts Drives: 2006 Z4MR Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Virginia iTrader: (0)	Actual current McMaster part numbers: You'll have to get them from McMaster, but probably more of them than you want, but hey, you can never have too much left over hardware. You need 6 M8x25 and 2 M8x35 (where the Vanos oil accumulator bracket is attached). Yea, you're going to get a heck of a lot more of them than you need, but they're dirt cheap. M8x25 = 90854A167 (Sack of 25) M8x35 = 90854A172 (Sack of 25) Nord-Locks = 91812A430 (5 per pack, so get 2 packs.)
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