Detailing advice deeded

Nhopkins1394 · 07-25-2010, 02:42 AM

I am the new owner (new to me) of a 2006 Z4 3.0si Roadster, 49k miles
Sapphire Black with black interior leather.
I think it needs some wax for protection (stays in garage, religiously)
Concerned about making major mistakes and screwing up the paint job.
Novice regarding wax & detailing products.

Does my car have a coat or two of clear polyeurethane (or whatever the "clearcoat" is made of)?

Can I just by some Mothers and follow the directions?

I don't think I need to use any buffing tools but if I wanted use one to polish the wax off what should I use? I own a nice but simple circular electric buffer with a big fluffy lambs wool pad (or something like that).

I've read about the Sonax for the wheels. I will try that.

Any help would be appreciated.

RBull · 07-25-2010, 08:02 AM

Post some pics in the sunlight so we can see the condition of the paint. ie swirls, marring etc. If you do have these and want them removed you'll need to use a machine- polisher or have a professional do it. If you don't know what you're doing don't do it. A random orbital polisher is much safer for the DIYer. This is an excellent guide.
http://g35driver.com/forums/care-det...your-ride.html

If all you want is wax or a sealant it's a hand process. Sealants are more durable. Start by buying some clay and clay lube. You can remove any residue with a 50/50 mixture of water and 70% isopropyl alcohol. Apply your wax or sealant. Enjoy.

Dammmittt · 07-25-2010, 09:52 AM

Go to autopia.org and read some articles. Huge detailing resource.

nmulax · 07-25-2010, 10:10 AM

Read through hear a bit. Lots of good info/reviews on products, and a good place to post future questions since it gets a lot more traffic (especially from the detailing guys).

Like Rbull said, posting some pics of you car's paint will be a good starting point. Unfortunately black paint (especially after 49k miles) is probably going to need some polishing to bring it back to life.

As far as your buffer, it kinda depends on what style it is. It's likely a random orbital, which is the best for anyone who doesn't know what they're doing; the head doesn't just spin in a circle, so it eliminates the likelihood of burning through the paint.
Porter Cable is the most common random orbital, and other companies (Griots Garage, Mothers) sell the same thing with their logo slapped on. I'd suggest foam pads if you go with a PC, and recommend either Lake Country or Hex Logic pads.

A simple but effective process to start off with:
• Wash your car (look up the two-bucket method)
• Clay bar the car
• I'll usually then give the car another quick wash
• Strip the paint using a 50/50 distilled water and isopropyl alcohol mix
• If polishing: start with the most abrasive polish and the firmest pad. Always use a finishing polish last (ie. don't use an aggressive polish then call it done).
• Apply a coat or two of sealant. If doing 2 coats, wait 24 hours (you can drive the car, just give it a quick wash before doing the second coat).
• Apply a coat of wax just to really make the paint glow.

A couple explanations of misused terms and detailing tips:

• I always start with the wheels. Since wheel cleaner is more aggressive, this way I'm sure to clean up any potential overspray when I then wash the paint.

• Polish:
Polishes are abrasive liquids used to basically take off a small amount of clear. These are what removes scratches/spiderwebs.

• Wax:
Typically carnauba based and either liquid or paste form that you apply by hand. This will usually offer protection for 3-6 weeks, and gives you that deep wet look.

• Sealant:
Think of it as a synthetic wax. It's a liquid that you apply by hand (a Micro-Fiber wrapped sponge works great), and can usually be stacked (one layer on-top of another) for additional protection, usually after a 24-hour cure period. Sealants last between 6-8 months; so a good idea is to do it once in the spring and again in the fall.

• Clay Bar:
What it sounds like. A piece of clay that you rub across your paint (with little to no pressure) using quick-detailer or a water/auto shampoo mix to lubricate the surface. This pulls off all those surface contaminants embedded in your paint. Constantly fold the clay into itself exposing fresh clay. Do this once or twice a year.

• You should really use micro-fiber sponges/clothes/towels for everything involved with your car's paint. They'll provide the best chance against developing future scratches.

dekaliber · 07-25-2010, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nhopkins1394

I don't think I need to use any buffing tools but if I wanted use one to polish the wax off what should I use? I own a nice but simple circular electric buffer with a big fluffy lambs wool pad (or something like that).

A buffer really isn't that necessary to wax application. If anything, I use it with a foam pad to apply the wax, but I still remove it using a soft microfiber towel.

As RBull said though, take some pictures in the sun so we can see the condition of the paint. A random orbital polisher like the Porter Cable sold practically everywhere is a great investment.

RBull · 07-25-2010, 10:41 AM

Good help guys.

JPWEraser · 07-25-2010, 10:43 AM

If you are a novice when it comes to wax and such, then I wouldn't recommend to dive into paint correction right off the bat. The important part about wax is how you apply it (specific to the type of wax you use) and what kind of wax works best for your situation. For you, I would reccommend P21S 100% Carnauba wax. Why? It is AMAZING for dark colors. It adds a lot of depth to the paint and also will fill small RIDS and swirls from poor washing over the years. The P21S comes with an application sponge - all you have to do is rub some wax into the absorbant part and apply it to a clean paint surface. After letting the car sit (inside, or at the very least, out of the sun) for about 30 minutes, use a microfiber towel to remove the residue.

For reference, you can purchase the P21S wax here:
http://www.detailersdomain.com/p21s-...apastewax.aspx

And some wonderful microfiber towels for removing wax:
http://www.detailersdomain.com/thene...lushtowel.aspx

bosstones · 07-25-2010, 11:49 AM

The thing about carnauba, though, is that it's more of a show wax and won't last a long time (~ a month depending on conditions). Depending on how much ambition, the OP has, it would be worth slapping on a coat of AIO or Rejex prior to carnauba. Both are quite durable, easy to use, and offer great protection while far outlasting any traditional wax. I haven't used Rejex, but AIO has light polishing properties. If there isn't much swirling on the OP's paint, that might be a good start.

Unless you're know when the car last had a proper detail, clay it before applying whatever you go with, though. It's not that hard to do. The most important thing to remember is to only clay over where you've sprayed down lubricant (e.g. QD) and only guide, not press on or force, the clay bar.

Like someone stated earlier, check out Autopia Car Care's site and forums. Lots of good info there.

Juice84 · 07-25-2010, 09:39 PM

A lot of local guys use zymols cleaner wax on their dark cars and they always have great results. I usually clay bar every spring and fall, and I will use mothers cleaner wax about every 5 - 6 weeks.

Nhopkins1394 · 07-25-2010, 11:02 PM

Wow! thanks for all the suggestions!
Really.
I'll post some before and after pics soon.

I don't think I have any bad paint swirls or defects so this may just be a "normal" wax job by hand.

This is actually my wife's car. Maybe I need to get her busy, too.

lstratos · 07-26-2010, 11:32 AM

BTW For the soft top, I didn't think raggtopp would make a big difference, but it made it look better.. also you'll need to use the fabric protectant also

bhoch · 07-26-2010, 11:59 AM

Nhopkins.. I don't know.. One can get away with some serious OH SH**s by keeping the misses car clean and good to go.

Not that I would know anything about that!

Enjoy getting to know the car with the cleaning/waxing efforts!

ARISIN · 07-26-2010, 04:27 PM

Has anyone tried the Zainos products? I have two co-workers that swear by it. Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but curious if anyone has used it.

JPWEraser · 07-26-2010, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ARISIN

Has anyone tried the Zainos products? I have two co-workers that swear by it. Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but curious if anyone has used it.

Zaino is good stuff - but in my professional opinion (and from my experience), it is a little overrated. If you follow the steps it works well but sometimes can be more work than is necessary. One can achieve as good or better results with other products.

nmulax · 07-26-2010, 09:58 PM

Yeah, Zaino is good, but overpriced and seems like they make some of it more complicated then it needs to be.

PatJags156 · 08-20-2010, 12:50 PM

I'm curious as to what ppl think:

I clayed my entire car 2 weekends ago. This weekend I plan on doing a full detail using the Detailing 101 from the e90post.com. The works, intensive and mild polish, sealant and all using a Porter Cable.

Do you think I need to re-clay my car before I polish and seal?

Dammmittt · 08-20-2010, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PatJags156

I'm curious as to what ppl think:

I clayed my entire car 2 weekends ago. This weekend I plan on doing a full detail using the Detailing 101 from the e90post.com. The works, intensive and mild polish, sealant and all using a Porter Cable.

Do you think I need to re-wax my car before I polish and seal?

No...never wax before u polish. You need to do some more research.

PatJags156 · 08-20-2010, 01:09 PM

I meant clay. lol

nmulax · 08-20-2010, 01:30 PM

No, it'll be fine. 1 weeks worth of accumulation isn't bad, just give it a wash.

SHEEDI · 08-23-2010, 08:00 AM

what you guys think about Mother's spray wax? are they(spray waxes) efficient?

JPWEraser · 08-23-2010, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soomro

what you guys think about Mother's spray wax? are they(spray waxes) efficient?

Any spray waxes that I have used are just short term solutions. For example, if you are going to a car show and need to get something on the car quick, then use spray wax. Otherwise, spend the time on a regular wax job.

bosstones · 08-23-2010, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPWEraser

Any spray waxes that I have used are just short term solutions. For example, if you are going to a car show and need to get something on the car quick, then use spray wax. Otherwise, spend the time on a regular wax job.

+1. The only 'spray-on wax' I use is meant to be a touch-up, not a substitute, for Klasse AIO.

Usually, if it seems too easy, there's a reason for it.

07-25-2010, 02:42 AM	#1
Nhopkins1394 Accountant, 1st Class 8 Rep 237 Posts Drives: 2006 Z4 3.0si Roadster, Black Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Irving, TX where the Cowboys used to play! iTrader: (0)	Detailing advice deeded I am the new owner (new to me) of a 2006 Z4 3.0si Roadster, 49k miles Sapphire Black with black interior leather. I think it needs some wax for protection (stays in garage, religiously) Concerned about making major mistakes and screwing up the paint job. Novice regarding wax & detailing products. Does my car have a coat or two of clear polyeurethane (or whatever the "clearcoat" is made of)? Can I just by some Mothers and follow the directions? I don't think I need to use any buffing tools but if I wanted use one to polish the wax off what should I use? I own a nice but simple circular electric buffer with a big fluffy lambs wool pad (or something like that). I've read about the Sonax for the wheels. I will try that. Any help would be appreciated.
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07-25-2010, 08:02 AM	#2
RBull Captain 12 Rep 725 Posts Drives: 2007 M Coupe Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Nova Scotia iTrader: (0)	Post some pics in the sunlight so we can see the condition of the paint. ie swirls, marring etc. If you do have these and want them removed you'll need to use a machine- polisher or have a professional do it. If you don't know what you're doing don't do it. A random orbital polisher is much safer for the DIYer. This is an excellent guide. http://g35driver.com/forums/care-det...your-ride.html If all you want is wax or a sealant it's a hand process. Sealants are more durable. Start by buying some clay and clay lube. You can remove any residue with a 50/50 mixture of water and 70% isopropyl alcohol. Apply your wax or sealant. Enjoy.
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07-25-2010, 09:52 AM	#3
Dammmittt My favorite sign. 169 Rep 4,333 Posts Drives: 2007 M Coupe Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Der Autobahnen iTrader: (0)	Go to autopia.org and read some articles. Huge detailing resource. __________________ 07 ///M Coupe (Premium Package) Black Saphire Ext. Imola Red Int. Best Website EVER!
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07-25-2010, 10:10 AM	#4
nmulax Brigadier General 379 Rep 4,320 Posts Drives: '07 Z4 M Coupe Join Date: May 2006 Location: Metro-Detroit iTrader: (5) Garage List 2007 Z4M Coupé [7.66]	Read through hear a bit. Lots of good info/reviews on products, and a good place to post future questions since it gets a lot more traffic (especially from the detailing guys). Like Rbull said, posting some pics of you car's paint will be a good starting point. Unfortunately black paint (especially after 49k miles) is probably going to need some polishing to bring it back to life. As far as your buffer, it kinda depends on what style it is. It's likely a random orbital, which is the best for anyone who doesn't know what they're doing; the head doesn't just spin in a circle, so it eliminates the likelihood of burning through the paint. Porter Cable is the most common random orbital, and other companies (Griots Garage, Mothers) sell the same thing with their logo slapped on. I'd suggest foam pads if you go with a PC, and recommend either Lake Country or Hex Logic pads. A simple but effective process to start off with: • Wash your car (look up the two-bucket method) • Clay bar the car • I'll usually then give the car another quick wash • Strip the paint using a 50/50 distilled water and isopropyl alcohol mix • If polishing: start with the most abrasive polish and the firmest pad. Always use a finishing polish last (ie. don't use an aggressive polish then call it done). • Apply a coat or two of sealant. If doing 2 coats, wait 24 hours (you can drive the car, just give it a quick wash before doing the second coat). • Apply a coat of wax just to really make the paint glow. A couple explanations of misused terms and detailing tips: • I always start with the wheels. Since wheel cleaner is more aggressive, this way I'm sure to clean up any potential overspray when I then wash the paint. • Polish: Polishes are abrasive liquids used to basically take off a small amount of clear. These are what removes scratches/spiderwebs. • Wax: Typically carnauba based and either liquid or paste form that you apply by hand. This will usually offer protection for 3-6 weeks, and gives you that deep wet look. • Sealant: Think of it as a synthetic wax. It's a liquid that you apply by hand (a Micro-Fiber wrapped sponge works great), and can usually be stacked (one layer on-top of another) for additional protection, usually after a 24-hour cure period. Sealants last between 6-8 months; so a good idea is to do it once in the spring and again in the fall. • Clay Bar: What it sounds like. A piece of clay that you rub across your paint (with little to no pressure) using quick-detailer or a water/auto shampoo mix to lubricate the surface. This pulls off all those surface contaminants embedded in your paint. Constantly fold the clay into itself exposing fresh clay. Do this once or twice a year. • You should really use micro-fiber sponges/clothes/towels for everything involved with your car's paint. They'll provide the best chance against developing future scratches. __________________
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07-25-2010, 10:41 AM	#6
RBull Captain 12 Rep 725 Posts Drives: 2007 M Coupe Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Nova Scotia iTrader: (0)	Good help guys.
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07-25-2010, 10:43 AM	#7
JPWEraser Lieutenant 265 Rep 527 Posts Drives: 2016 Corvette Z06/Z07 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Union, KY iTrader: (8)	If you are a novice when it comes to wax and such, then I wouldn't recommend to dive into paint correction right off the bat. The important part about wax is how you apply it (specific to the type of wax you use) and what kind of wax works best for your situation. For you, I would reccommend P21S 100% Carnauba wax. Why? It is AMAZING for dark colors. It adds a lot of depth to the paint and also will fill small RIDS and swirls from poor washing over the years. The P21S comes with an application sponge - all you have to do is rub some wax into the absorbant part and apply it to a clean paint surface. After letting the car sit (inside, or at the very least, out of the sun) for about 30 minutes, use a microfiber towel to remove the residue. For reference, you can purchase the P21S wax here: http://www.detailersdomain.com/p21s-...apastewax.aspx And some wonderful microfiber towels for removing wax: http://www.detailersdomain.com/thene...lushtowel.aspx
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07-25-2010, 11:49 AM	#8
bosstones Lieutenant Colonel 1154 Rep 1,543 Posts Drives: o_0 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Suburbia iTrader: (0)	The thing about carnauba, though, is that it's more of a show wax and won't last a long time (~ a month depending on conditions). Depending on how much ambition, the OP has, it would be worth slapping on a coat of AIO or Rejex prior to carnauba. Both are quite durable, easy to use, and offer great protection while far outlasting any traditional wax. I haven't used Rejex, but AIO has light polishing properties. If there isn't much swirling on the OP's paint, that might be a good start. Unless you're know when the car last had a proper detail, clay it before applying whatever you go with, though. It's not that hard to do. The most important thing to remember is to only clay over where you've sprayed down lubricant (e.g. QD) and only guide, not press on or force, the clay bar. Like someone stated earlier, check out Autopia Car Care's site and forums. Lots of good info there. __________________ - Jeff bosstones' flickr
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07-25-2010, 09:39 PM	#9
Juice84 Second Lieutenant 9 Rep 238 Posts Drives: '03 2.5i Z4 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wisconsin iTrader: (0)	A lot of local guys use zymols cleaner wax on their dark cars and they always have great results. I usually clay bar every spring and fall, and I will use mothers cleaner wax about every 5 - 6 weeks.
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07-25-2010, 11:02 PM	#10
Nhopkins1394 Accountant, 1st Class 8 Rep 237 Posts Drives: 2006 Z4 3.0si Roadster, Black Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Irving, TX where the Cowboys used to play! iTrader: (0)	detailing help Wow! thanks for all the suggestions! Really. I'll post some before and after pics soon. I don't think I have any bad paint swirls or defects so this may just be a "normal" wax job by hand. This is actually my wife's car. Maybe I need to get her busy, too.
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07-26-2010, 11:32 AM	#11
lstratos Private First Class 8 Rep 139 Posts Drives: Z4 3.0i Join Date: May 2010 Location: Queens iTrader: (0)	BTW For the soft top, I didn't think raggtopp would make a big difference, but it made it look better.. also you'll need to use the fabric protectant also
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07-26-2010, 11:59 AM	#12
bhoch SSGT USMC - '78 - '86 13 Rep 487 Posts Drives: Z4 3.0si Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Liberty Hill, Tx iTrader: (0) Garage List 2007 BMW Z4 [7.33]	Nhopkins.. I don't know.. One can get away with some serious OH SH**s by keeping the misses car clean and good to go. Not that I would know anything about that! Enjoy getting to know the car with the cleaning/waxing efforts!
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07-26-2010, 04:27 PM	#13
ARISIN Private 1 Rep 58 Posts Drives: BMW Z4M Roadster - Silver Grey Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: BMI iTrader: (0)	Has anyone tried the Zainos products? I have two co-workers that swear by it. Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but curious if anyone has used it. __________________ I drive - 2007 BMW ///M Roadster
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07-26-2010, 09:58 PM	#15
nmulax Brigadier General 379 Rep 4,320 Posts Drives: '07 Z4 M Coupe Join Date: May 2006 Location: Metro-Detroit iTrader: (5) Garage List 2007 Z4M Coupé [7.66]	Yeah, Zaino is good, but overpriced and seems like they make some of it more complicated then it needs to be. __________________
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08-20-2010, 12:50 PM	#16
PatJags156 Second Lieutenant 28 Rep 263 Posts Drives: 335i Convertible Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: SoCal iTrader: (1)	I'm curious as to what ppl think: I clayed my entire car 2 weekends ago. This weekend I plan on doing a full detail using the Detailing 101 from the e90post.com. The works, intensive and mild polish, sealant and all using a Porter Cable. Do you think I need to re-clay my car before I polish and seal? Last edited by PatJags156; 08-20-2010 at 01:09 PM.. Reason: I'm a dumbass
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08-20-2010, 01:09 PM	#18
PatJags156 Second Lieutenant 28 Rep 263 Posts Drives: 335i Convertible Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: SoCal iTrader: (1)	I meant clay. lol
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08-20-2010, 01:30 PM	#19
nmulax Brigadier General 379 Rep 4,320 Posts Drives: '07 Z4 M Coupe Join Date: May 2006 Location: Metro-Detroit iTrader: (5) Garage List 2007 Z4M Coupé [7.66]	No, it'll be fine. 1 weeks worth of accumulation isn't bad, just give it a wash. __________________
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08-23-2010, 08:00 AM	#20
SHEEDI Banned 602 Rep 2,703 Posts Drives: 2009 335i - Sport PKG Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NY iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 335i [8.50]	what you guys think about Mother's spray wax? are they(spray waxes) efficient?
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