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10-18-2013, 09:19 AM | #1 |
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Transmission Issue, 2nd Gear Synchro....
So after not driving my car for a month or so I decided to take it out for a spin. Drove it around all morning, no issues, oil is fresh, just put fresh gas in it, battery A OKAY. All heated up I decided to give it the beans in first, switch to 2nd and I crushed the synchro.
Make fun of me all you want for being a shitty driver, this was not my doing. Since day one with this thing the 1st to 2nd gear change has been an issue. I've written a thread about it awhile ago and everyone on here seems to agree that there is a problem there due to our trans never being meant for the s54. My car is drivable I just cant use 2nd gear. I would love to keep this car but I am not going to spend all this money to have it fixed if its just going to happen again somewhere down the line. MY TRANS MODS: UUC SSK RP SWAP MOUNTS CLUTCH STOP CDV DELETE ZHP KNOB Id like to do a different SSK possibly, and also motor mounts for sure. I guess my point here is can anything else possibly be done to prevent or eliminate this from happening again? if not I am just going to trade the car in for something else. ALSO: My boy villalona is going to smack me for this but is there anybody else out there from NYC OR NNJ that can recommend a good trustworthy indie shop that can do this job for a decent price? I called rogue and they don't do trans work. I got a price of $350 from Motorcepts to remove the transmission and diagnose the problem. $100 more if I don't want to do the work to put the tranny back in, no ball park price on total job costs. RCT performance in queens told me that im looking at $1500 ballpark for complete job. MUCH APPRECIATED! |
10-18-2013, 09:22 AM | #2 |
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Get rid of the SSK and the clutch stop, neither are needed in this car and go with the vibra technic engine mounts. If you're trans mounts are also uuc, dump'em and go with the Rogue rubber. Trans fluid is marginal for any improvements, no matter what people say.
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10-18-2013, 09:26 AM | #3 |
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I forget what my mounts are, 5 years ago I installed them. I do notice that when the car is cold, while I back up the car squeals. Goes away when warm. Ive been told that the Auto Solutions SSK is the best for our car but incredibly hard to find since theyre no longer produced. The clutch stop is at its lowest setting down to the floor, I thought that having it too high made the 1-2 grind happen even more. It did do away somewhat when I lowered it down.
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10-18-2013, 09:49 AM | #4 | |
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10-18-2013, 01:10 PM | #5 |
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I had a new tranny installed with new engine and trans mounts and installed the AutoSolutions SSK and I still grind 1-2 every now and then I know how you feel.
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10-18-2013, 01:23 PM | #7 |
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VT engine mounts are currently the best thing you can do.
I've been trying for a while to get them to make us a transmission brace, see this thread. Feel free to voice your support, bump that thread or contact VT.
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10-18-2013, 01:25 PM | #8 | |
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10-18-2013, 07:19 PM | #10 |
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Not saying this to gloat, but I don't have any issues at all down or up-shifting into 2nd, so I wouldn't blame it on incompatible parts from the OEM. There has to be something to fix somewhere. I get some resistance shifting into 1st while going up driveways, so I think there's definitely something to getting these VT mounts...
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10-18-2013, 07:21 PM | #11 |
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OK forgive me if this is ignorant but what do the mounts have to do with grinding in second gear? I would be more concerned about the clutch releasing all the way. If the trans grinds on a shift, it is either still connected to flywheel under power via clutch or the syncro is junk. I would make sure clutch is completely releasing before condemning transmission.
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10-18-2013, 07:32 PM | #12 |
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My understanding is the stock mounts, even in good shape, allow the engine/trans to wiggle around too much, especially over rough surfaces/bumps/etc or when hauling ass. The movement in the drivetrain can make it difficult to move the shifter into gear. Installing mounts that are more stiff helps to keep everything in place.
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10-19-2013, 01:25 AM | #13 |
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I don't think it's a design issue. Maybe linkage adjustment?
I don't mean to gloat either, but I've always found the shifting to be "butter smooth", even before the VT motor mounts and RE trans mounts. My clutch release timing has been iffy, but that's just me. CDV delete and adjustable clutch stop has that pretty well solved. Shifting into 1st does have some extra clunk, but I think that's the hill holding. It feels like I'm engaging something else in addition to the trans.
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10-19-2013, 10:21 AM | #14 |
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Keep in mind the CDV does nothing for disengaging the clutch, it's a one-way valve, that dampens like a needle landing on a record when the clutch engages.
IMO,the transmission really isn't suited for this chassis and engine combination. It seems to have far fewer issues in the Si than mated to the S54.
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10-19-2013, 10:25 AM | #15 |
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10-19-2013, 03:39 PM | #16 | |
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With the stock engine mounts the engine moves several millimeters up or down under hard acceleration; with the VT mounts the movement is reduced a LOT (which is why you feel a big difference in throttle response). The engine and the transmission are bolted together, so both are moving, but the linkage to the shifter is stuck to the car. So the theory is that the twisting is what's causing issues, or at least making the issue worse. There's an explanation in the original VT thread as to why just changing transmission mounts doesn't do anything, and it mirrors people's experience where even going full poly makes a minimal impact but increases NVH by a lot. This is why VT needs to make a whole replacement brace. And anyone that says they don't have issues, I imagine it comes down to how fast you are shifting. With the VT Mounts I only have 1->2 issues when shifting EXTREMELY fast, literally throwing it into gear as fast as it will go. If I pause at all (which you might argue is correct technique) I don't have a problem. Before the VT mounts it was much easier to cause a grind. I also noticed that if I pull the shifter hard LEFT, I can also go much faster; which adds to the theory that the problem is the rotation of the engine/transmission versus the linkage.
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10-19-2013, 06:08 PM | #17 |
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Gotta agree with Beta here. Also, silly as it seems, pulling hard left and down never ///M has had a grind in a combined 40k of driving. Got a grind early on (before applying that "technique"), and a friend got one about 5k later (didn't use the "technique").
I would speculate it's something to do with what Beta explained. That said, and it could be merely post hoc reasoning, haven't had a problem since using the "left" method. |
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10-19-2013, 06:13 PM | #18 |
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Still shouldnt have to use a technique like that whilst driving a 60k when new sports car. This trans brace that was mentioned, will they design one if theres enough interest? Again im only interested if its a guaranteed fix.
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10-19-2013, 07:03 PM | #20 |
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The CDV delete helps with clutch release engagement point (and speed of engagement). Not a help with this issue, but greatly increases clutch release control and feel.
Lot could be said about should. Boxster engines shouldn't blow up due to IMS failure. Cayman engines shouldn't blow up for bad oiling systems and design. GT3 motors shouldn't leak oil. Our crankshaft should be designed better, so should the transmission, and power steering lines. Z07s shouldn't eat exhaust valves. And on. To me, every car has a weak spot or failure point. Well, maybe not an Accord, but then there's a lot to give up with that choice. Like people in our lives either we learn to live with the quirks, knowing there's a lot to love, or we move on. |
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10-19-2013, 11:53 PM | #21 | |
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One to knock it out of gear, one to put in in the next gear. But it's just street driving. That 100 ms hesitation would cost my butt on the track. I haven't looked closely at the linkage, but it seems to me the sort of thing that should have some adjustability. Not every engine/trans is going to bolt into every chassis exactly the same.
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10-20-2013, 12:59 AM | #22 |
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Well I just ordered the cdv delete as my car is in the shop anyways, completely draining and refilling /bleeding the clutch is probably overdue anyways. Might as well while it's on the lift.. Can't say I have personally had the issue of my box not letting me shift Into gears though, but then I come way back from a diesel background and I drive like miss daisy anyways. ; )
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