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      10-20-2013, 01:04 AM   #23
StickMon
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The CDV delete won't do anything for shifting, just for a possibly smoother clutch release.

After deleting mine, I have a noticeable reduction in "passenger head bob" when letting the clutch out in 2nd.

The ///M has such a high torque-to-weight ratio that you need to match the engine and trans speeds pretty tightly to get a smooth transition.
The CDV delete eliminates the befuddling delay, making it easier to master (IMHO, YMMV).

Sounds like you drive much like I do.
I think my shifting habits date back to my first VW.
I learned the first day I got my driver's license that you can't rip the shift straight from 1st to 2nd.
You have to knock it out of 1st, then pull it in to 2nd.
But that was probably an artifact of a 1962 trans.
Transmissions have improved, but I never changed my technique.
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      10-20-2013, 09:07 AM   #24
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I had a similar issue in my civic si a few years back. Almost an identical problem only it was. 2nd to 3rd gear at high revs. My mechanic told me it was because honda didnt use the correct fluid for the trans. We swaped it out for Amsoil synchromesh fluid. It was like butter ever since. Never had a 3rd gear grind again. Unfortunatley amsoil dosent offer anything for our cars. Pity , i bet it would help alot.
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      10-20-2013, 10:19 PM   #25
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Okay, after driving a 1960 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider today, I agree with Stickmon. Talk about a willingness to grind!

"You have to knock it out of 1st, then pull it in to 2nd."

Yup. That worked. But I will say, the Z4M had me pretty well prepared for the Alfa. After a few minutes I was heel/toeing her and had the gears working like butter!
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      10-21-2013, 07:36 AM   #26
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Have you replaced the bolts on your motor mount brackets? Might also look into those.
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      10-21-2013, 07:39 AM   #27
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I just had a mechanic tell me that if i complained to bmw once before about the 2nd gear issue and i being it back damaged now, i have a fighting chance to get them to fix it. Truth?
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      10-21-2013, 07:54 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by just2talented View Post
I just had a mechanic tell me that if i complained to bmw once before about the 2nd gear issue and i being it back damaged now, i have a fighting chance to get them to fix it. Truth?
How long ago was the complaint? Was it documented? was the car under warranty at the time? When did the warranty run out?
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      10-21-2013, 08:00 AM   #29
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I have all the paperwork at home. The warranty ran out in 2011. If i complained about it, 2009-2010. If at all. Its BS tho. Car was messed up from the factory. They should fix it.
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      10-21-2013, 02:18 PM   #30
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Not fixing the car because this is a "common issue" is complete bs. I can't recall anyone else on here crushing a syncro, but lets just accept for a moment that there was no driver error at all and it was your defective tranny. Thats still just your defective tranny, not evey tranny put in a Z4M. Fixing the tranny should fix whatever defective part or whatever was the problem, and you should be good to go.

If you frequently grind when shifting and have been for some time, then driver error has a lot to do with it. Even if there was no driver error on that specific shift, grinding on many previous shifts certainly weakened the syncro and contributed to the failure. These transmissions are tough to shift, true, but that doesn't mean they'll accept frequent grinding with no consequences. If you were also grinding the Si, that points to poor shift technique being a big part of the problem. While many people complain about shifting, truly defective transmissions are few and far between, the chances of getting 2 in a row are incredibly remote.
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      10-21-2013, 02:28 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdoublehcubed
Not fixing the car because this is a "common issue" is complete bs. I can't recall anyone else on here crushing a syncro, but lets just accept for a moment that there was no driver error at all and it was your defective tranny. Thats still just your defective tranny, not evey tranny put in a Z4M. Fixing the tranny should fix whatever defective part or whatever was the problem, and you should be good to go.

If you frequently grind when shifting and have been for some time, then driver error has a lot to do with it. Even if there was no driver error on that specific shift, grinding on many previous shifts certainly weakened the syncro and contributed to the failure. These transmissions are tough to shift, true, but that doesn't mean they'll accept frequent grinding with no consequences. If you were also grinding the Si, that points to poor shift technique being a big part of the problem. While many people complain about shifting, truly defective transmissions are few and far between, the chances of getting 2 in a row are incredibly remote.
Guy read the posts, the grind i had in the civic went away w/ a fluid swap. I Put 40k+ miles on it since then and never grinded anything again in that car. Furthermore, ive only grinded my 2nd gear a few times. Few meaning 2 or 3 prior to this so dont go around saying its me. I was driving the car fast yes but i did not miss the gear or powershift. I shifted at redline like you should be able to do with a car like this. Not impose some "heartbeat method" or firm down to the left technique. That my friend is bullshit. I was the OP on one of the 1>2 grind threads and i put that up after the 2nd time cause i knew that it wasnt my driving, low and behold it seems im not the only one.

Its also my choice to fix this thing or not. Im looking at a few thousand to rebuild the tranny plus the clutch since its opened anyway. Im not going to spend all this money to have it happen again.
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      10-21-2013, 04:06 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
VT engine mounts are currently the best thing you can do.
Grinding the gears (the problem in this topic) has absolutely nothing to do with engine mounts or transmission mounts.
The only thing transmission and engine mounts do is limit the movement of the engine/transmission. Some people believe that that improves the way you can find the gears, but there's enough movement under the gator/in the linkeage that a gear is always accessible. Whether you can find it is a 100% drivers issue.
However grinding is a totally different problem. You can only grind gears if you already have found the gear!. So its 100% a transmission or clutch issue.

To solve the grinding you have to make sure that the clutch can decouple 100% (so the clutch should be in working order, the system bled, clutch stops removed etc). If there's still grinding, it's a transmission issue. First change the fluid (be sure to do that when the transmission is warm).
If there's still grinding, you have to open the transmission. Maybe the synchro's are worn or so.

An ssk is not the best way to ensure gearbox life. Synchro gearboxes like slower changes at lower revs.
If you want to shift quick (hooligan style , like this guy) a doggearbox may be better (but probably not available for the z4m or ridiculously expensive (maybe quaife has something))
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Last edited by GuidoK; 10-21-2013 at 04:36 PM..
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      10-21-2013, 04:42 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
Grinding the gears (the problem in this topic) has absolutely nothing to do with engine mounts or transmission mounts.
Everyone that has installed the VT mounts has noticed an improvement in shifting and less likelihood of grinding 1->2.

A dogbox is not for street cars.
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      10-21-2013, 05:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
Everyone that has installed the VT mounts has noticed an improvement in shifting and less likelihood of grinding 1->2.
Not everyone......
Anyway, everyone that knows how a gearbox works or has worked on them knows that the problems are unrelated.
Or do you think there's a physical connection between a motor mount and a synchro from a gearbox?
If you can grind a synchro, you've found the gear. It's as simple as that. Or do you think that the shift forks and synchro's wiggle around and that that is reduced by stiffer mounts?

Also there's enough room in the linkeage to cope with the few centimeters of roll/pitch/yaw that the engine/tranny can make during cornering. The shifting arm bushing probably has more relative play. That bushing is very very soft btw. But that's all on potential influence on finding the gear, not getting it into gear.
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Last edited by GuidoK; 10-21-2013 at 05:40 PM..
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      10-21-2013, 06:23 PM   #35
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I'm thinking that the cause/effect of the "pull left" method has little to do with left or transmission/engine alignment. Rather, the technique requires one to be a bit slower and more deliberate in shifting, and perhaps that gives a bit more time (or changes the timing, speed of synchros, etc.).

I found that changing the speed of pulling into 2nd on the old Alpha yesterday made a huge difference in how happy the car was shifting (1-2, 2-3, 2-1). I'm thinking the same thing is in play here. Finding a gear--twist comes into play for sure (try 3rd to 2nd with the car loading or unloading in a turn). Synchros, probably more about timing (with this gearbox at least).

Back to the OP's issue--I'm not sure there is a sure fire way to 100% "fix" the issue and promise it won't recur. Getting BMW (or any make) to provide a replacement after warranty is unlikely. Best bet is probably to fix it, then trade and move on.
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      10-21-2013, 06:48 PM   #36
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Transmission in my car simply sucks. Has since new. Don't know if it's a manufacturing problem or an engineering problem. The balance of the "fixes" will be installed next spring; VT mounts, AS shifter. Unfortunately most of my problem has been getting the car from third to second on the track when in braking situations in hot weather. I learned very early on to not bother trying to make fast 1st to 2nd shifts. And I've never ground a gear in any car I've ever owned or truck I ever drove...
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      10-21-2013, 07:45 PM   #37
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I didn't have the grind issue in the M until recently. I have a 3.64 in the non-M (supposedly the same transmission as the M), and I've never had any grind from 1-2. Because the grind began around the time I got the supercharger, and many are saying that the grind is reduced with new engine mounts, I'd be willing to bet that some of it has to do with the extra flex from the greater torque combined with worn mounts. I'll be doing mounts in a few months, and I'll report back with my results.
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      10-22-2013, 11:41 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddyshk View Post
Unfortunately most of my problem has been getting the car from third to second on the track when in braking situations in hot weather.
I don't see why this is such a problem. You just need to start turning faster lap times and go through that corner flat out!

Kidding of course.
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      10-22-2013, 06:47 PM   #39
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Quote:
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I don't see why this is such a problem. You just need to start turning faster lap times and go through that corner flat out!

Kidding of course.
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      12-16-2013, 01:22 PM   #40
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Didnt BMW turn our car into an ALMS Racecar? I wonder what kind of trans was used in that car or if its the same trans, what kind of modifications were used.....

Any ideas?
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      12-17-2013, 11:24 PM   #41
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I think the ALMS is based on an E89. "Based on" being a very loose term.
Not sure exactly how much it has in common with the production car.
Maybe the kidney grills.

I'm sure the trans costs as much as you or I paid for our entire cars.
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