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      01-09-2010, 11:34 AM   #23
Diokaef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLF View Post
Here is where I found my button. http://www.alliedelec.com/switches-r...493+4294818361
I am sure you will find whatever you need at this site.

I am following your thread but it doesn't make sense yet.
Can you tell me what doesn't make sense? tell me so I can explain to you or correct and is always a possibility that I missed something.

so the more people talk about it, better it is for me to see defects on my plan and correct them.
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      01-09-2010, 01:06 PM   #24
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Please ask question

Please ask questions about all this, any input is welcome, I'm trying to get this done but it need to work perfectly,

here is one more system that I came across

http://www.shop.feslerbuilt.com/product.sc?productId=21
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      01-09-2010, 01:30 PM   #25
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keyless start?

The way I read this, push a button to start and push it again to stop. If this is correct where is the security? What happens to the immobilizer? You said you removed the steering lock, I understand that. The cars ecu requires the immobilizer so if you do get around the immobilizer what keeps anyone from pushing the button and driving off?
I want the immobilizer to act as the key card and it need be present to start the engine. I also use the remote portion as a means to drop the top and lock or unlock the car along with opening the trunk. This means I want just the top portion of the key to be in my pocket.

Quote---When you get in the car with the key remote in your pocket you can press the start/shut off button and the car will turn on the ignition and start after you press clutch. when you want to stop the car just press the same button again and the engine will shut off and after 30 sec the windows will roll-up. that is it, look your car with the remote and the car will active the alarm if you have one.
So you are telling me exactly what I want but not how to get there. YET
I have wired about four roadsters with a start buttons but I don't understand how you are wiring the relays etc without cutting any wires?
The button itself. Is a momentary type, normal open, normal closed, led? The leads need labels where there going etc.
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      01-09-2010, 01:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diokaef View Post
Please ask questions about all this, any input is welcome, I'm trying to get this done but it need to work perfectly,

here is one more system that I came across

http://www.shop.feslerbuilt.com/product.sc?productId=21
That button they show is the same manufacture as the button I am using except it has LED. It is a moment switch.
Keep on trucking with your plan. Has you get closer I will try it as I am very familiar with the underside of my dash. Where the wires are and how to get to them
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      01-09-2010, 02:27 PM   #27
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can you post your pm msg here for all to see?

anyways our keys do not charge when they are on the ignition the only thing that it does is activate the signal, if you don't use a key for long time it will hibernate to save battery. so when you go to use you will need a minute or two to wake the key up.

everything sounds good with my diagram but is coming with a price tag too hi at the moment so I'm trying to work on getting it to cost less but not sacrifice quality maybe re-disgn, also is hard to have access to components here, the link that you gave me is very good I will take a look on it later today to see all they got.

Okay this are the main points of the project:

1 turn ign on and start
2 turn ign off w/o starter being activated


My plan is to get a momentary pulse and switch to constant to keep ign on with the first push of the button

Last edited by Diokaef; 07-28-2010 at 01:02 AM..
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      01-09-2010, 02:38 PM   #28
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From constant to switch

Now after the constant is on (out 12V) that will give power to the ignition key switch and deactivate the Immobilizer (if the key blade and the remote was in it)

Last edited by Diokaef; 07-28-2010 at 01:03 AM..
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      01-09-2010, 02:39 PM   #29
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As per your request:
This is a copy of private message sent to you

I want to help anyway I can. I really like the idea. One more thing to consider is our key gets recharged when inserted in the ignition. That is why there are no batteries. Or does it just have to be in the vicinity of the ignition to get recharged?
I know this from my first z4 that had no power in the extra key when I first bought it but after inserting key in ignition for awhile it was powered up to operate the door locks etc.
So it seems it must be a transmitter for the locks and a receiver for the immoblizer? I don't know if that makes any difference.

Gary Fuller
Email gary-f@att.net if you need help with English.[/QUOTE]
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      01-09-2010, 02:54 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLF View Post
The way I read this, push a button to start and push it again to stop. If this is correct where is the security? What happens to the immobilizer? You said you removed the steering lock, I understand that. The cars ecu requires the immobilizer so if you do get around the immobilizer what keeps anyone from pushing the button and driving off?
I want the immobilizer to act as the key card and it need be present to start the engine. I also use the remote portion as a means to drop the top and lock or unlock the car along with opening the trunk. This means I want just the top portion of the key to be in my pocket.

Quote---When you get in the car with the key remote in your pocket you can press the start/shut off button and the car will turn on the ignition and start after you press clutch. when you want to stop the car just press the same button again and the engine will shut off and after 30 sec the windows will roll-up. that is it, look your car with the remote and the car will active the alarm if you have one.
So you are telling me exactly what I want but not how to get there. YET
I have wired about four roadsters with a start buttons but I don't understand how you are wiring the relays etc without cutting any wires?
The button itself. Is a momentary type, normal open, normal closed, led? The leads need labels where there going etc.
And that is what I'm doing, you will leave the blade on the ign and the other part in your pocket (remote) that will prevent people of starting your car and driving off, I already tested that on my car and will work, the remote have a transponder and under the key socket you have a coil that receive that signal from it. so if you take your remote out of your key and put the blade on the ign and turn it will turn all the lights but will not start, but if you turn the key and also hold the remote right under the key socket and turn the key your car will start. you can leave your car running and take the key with you and the car will keep running but if you turn it off and the keys are not close to the key socket will not start again.
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      01-09-2010, 02:57 PM   #31
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Now that we have IGN 1 On

Now that we have IGN 1 On (we will remove the need of key later) with the key in it, the only thing that we did was to take the power from battery and send it to the momentary button, after the momentary button is pushed it will turn that pulse to constant. with the constant going to the ign switch where before we would have the bat. cable coming in. and you would be able to use the start normaly. but if you take ground out of the relay 2 we will no longer have constant and ign 1 would turn it off so....

I'm working on a switch relay that will cut that ground when you push the button again

Last edited by Diokaef; 07-28-2010 at 01:05 AM..
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      01-09-2010, 03:10 PM   #32
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so

after we push the button for the second time it will turn ign off

Last edited by Diokaef; 07-28-2010 at 01:06 AM..
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      01-09-2010, 03:34 PM   #33
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when the power switched to 2nd output it will also kill the starter

Last edited by Diokaef; 07-28-2010 at 01:06 AM..
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      01-09-2010, 03:42 PM   #34
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now to

connect the starter to the relay
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      01-09-2010, 04:16 PM   #35
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now all together

deleted

Last edited by Diokaef; 07-28-2010 at 01:07 AM..
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      01-09-2010, 04:34 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLF View Post
The way I read this, push a button to start and push it again to stop. If this is correct where is the security? What happens to the immobilizer? You said you removed the steering lock, I understand that. The cars ecu requires the immobilizer so if you do get around the immobilizer what keeps anyone from pushing the button and driving off?
I want the immobilizer to act as the key card and it need be present to start the engine. I also use the remote portion as a means to drop the top and lock or unlock the car along with opening the trunk. This means I want just the top portion of the key to be in my pocket.

Quote---When you get in the car with the key remote in your pocket you can press the start/shut off button and the car will turn on the ignition and start after you press clutch. when you want to stop the car just press the same button again and the engine will shut off and after 30 sec the windows will roll-up. that is it, look your car with the remote and the car will active the alarm if you have one.
So you are telling me exactly what I want but not how to get there. YET
I have wired about four roadsters with a start buttons but I don't understand how you are wiring the relays etc without cutting any wires?
The button itself. Is a momentary type, normal open, normal closed, led? The leads need labels where there going etc.

I dont want to cut the cables of my car so I will buy a new ignition switch and the male plug that connect to it and will do all my changes on it and after that I will plug the male on my car in the ignition side and the mod ignition switch to the male in the harness of my car like a jump/extension. so all the relays and other adds will be between the cables on my extension and not on my ignition.
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      01-10-2010, 06:26 AM   #37
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      01-10-2010, 06:28 AM   #38
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      01-10-2010, 06:31 AM   #39
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after I test this I will test the transponder coil amp. but I want to go by steps,

Last edited by Diokaef; 01-10-2010 at 03:03 PM..
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      01-10-2010, 03:14 PM   #40
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I will try to get all this stuff tested sometime this week.
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      01-16-2010, 06:12 PM   #41
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Sorry guys I have not had the time to test this yet, life is making me very busy, but I think I figure out the way to do with the receptor of the keys. Trying to get this thing done but my car is on the dealer getting new exhaust, removing CDV, getting new radio, new suspension, some new trim and ...... So may take a little time.
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      02-10-2010, 02:49 AM   #42
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still no time, I will get this done, just being busy as heck.
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      02-15-2010, 09:13 PM   #43
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Come on! Finish this already, lol. I am dying here to see the results.
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      03-01-2010, 12:51 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWI6 View Post
Come on! Finish this already, lol. I am dying here to see the results.
Sorry I just got the car from the first stage of mods, now I have the suspension and wheels and tires and headers and ECU ship and and and.

I will for sure get this done by the summer. I did install half of this on my friends civic and works fine, also I discover how to amplify the signal from the key recognition system to amplify its range. so just need time now to put it on my Z4M.
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