SCCA B Street and Apex 18x9.5s on the same car

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So, I am trying to accomplish two goals and have some questions. The plan is to run stock wheels with RE71Rs in B Street SCCA Solo events and Run Apex 18X9.5 ET35 Square 265-35-18 as my daily.

I am happy to raise and lower the car between events and/or remove/add Camber bolts, spacers etc(for the Apex street set-up) to get the best of both worlds.I would like to avoid studs at this point if possible

Goal 1
B Street SCCA Auto X. The plan is to do this with stock wheels with RE71R's. I have read all the threads I can find and don't see a consensus on highest performing size. I am guessing go with measured rim but I don't want to rule out a wider tire if it works better.
I would like to hear the current wisdom on tire sizes front and rear. I am looking for best not necessarily biggest.

For B street I'd also appreciate a list of the legal mods that work well together. I see various lists but don't want to do one that negates or precludes a more valuable one.

If I am reading the rule correctly I can lower the car using threaded perches on a strut with the stock spring?

Goal 2
Run a wheel such as the EC-7, PS-7, ARC-8 Square for street and FUN. How do those look at stock ride height?===>Bought 18x9.5 et35 PS-7 and spacers

Does anyone know if the 18x9.5 ET35 square wheel set-up will work with the stock spring/strut combo with a 265-35-18 tire? I see some doing this but don't know the height of the car vs. stock nor if it clears stock suspension [U]Bought 265-35-18 PSS, 12mm spacer, 5 mm spacer and stud kit

If not then I am on to looking for a B Street Shock/Strut set-up again lots of choices...

Legality in B Street aside should I use H&R camber Cam bolts or Turner camber bolts to take out camber due to lowering when daily driving and/or add camber when desirable? ===>Will use Turner approach on street set up

I'll stop now as my wallet is shrinking exponentially as I type.

My list looks like this:
Wheels and tires as described above ===> Purchased
BMW strut tower reinforcement plate(car came with BMW strut brace)
Camber bolts? ===> I will run these on the street. Have to take them off for Autocross
Carbotech XP8 Pads when its time for new rotors(Rotor suggestions?)
Struts? Whats the best bang for the buck and who wants to sell their low mile set because they upgraded Need advice on what adjustable setup is best for autocross with stock springs
Spacers as needed for street set-up(studs if unavoidable)===> Bought both

Reliability mod suggestions?

PACKAGE DEALS?

Thanks, everyone!

Carl

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Reserved for car Before and After Photos and comments

[Over it]

So for now, the car must stay on stock springs.
I will be buying adjustable sway bars or just an adjustable rear bar if someone has one available.
I am looking for shocks to pair with the stock springs for competition, let me know if you are selling your low mile excellent condition shocks.

I am also in search of wheels for the street. These must work with the stock spring. Ideally 18x9.5 square or if that can't fit(I need help with this) what is the max wheel and off set for that will work with the stock spring aftermarket shock combo?

Thanks
Carl
808-747-0138 text

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First post updated

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by in2twins

Goal 1
B Street SCCA Auto X. The plan is to do this with stock wheels with RE71R's. I have read all the threads I can find and don't see a consensus on highest performing size. I am guessing go with measured rim but I don't want to rule out a wider tire if it works better.
I would like to hear the current wisdom on tire sizes front and rear. I am looking for best not necessarily biggest.

For B street I'd also appreciate a list of the legal mods that work well together. I see various lists but don't want to do one that negates or precludes a more valuable one.

If I am reading the rule correctly I can lower the car using threaded perches on a strut with the stock spring?

Goal 2
Run a wheel such as the EC-7, PS-7, ARC-8 Square for street and FUN. How do those look at stock ride height?===>Bought 18x9.5 et35 PS-7 and spacers

Does anyone know if the 18x9.5 ET35 square wheel set-up will work with the stock spring/strut combo with a 265-35-18 tire? I see some doing this but don't know the height of the car vs. stock nor if it clears stock suspension [U]Bought 265-35-18 PSS, 12mm spacer, 5 mm spacer and stud kit

If not then I am on to looking for a B Street Shock/Strut set-up again lots of choices...

Legality in B Street aside should I use H&R camber Cam bolts or Turner camber bolts to take out camber due to lowering when daily driving and/or add camber when desirable? ===>Will use Turner approach on street set up

I'll stop now as my wallet is shrinking exponentially as I type.

My list looks like this:
Wheels and tires as described above ===> Purchased
BMW strut tower reinforcement plate(car came with BMW strut brace)
Camber bolts? ===> I will run these on the street. Have to take them off for Autocross
Carbotech XP8 Pads when its time for new rotors(Rotor suggestions?)
Struts? Whats the best bang for the buck and who wants to sell their low mile set because they upgraded Need advice on what adjustable setup is best for autocross with stock springs
Spacers as needed for street set-up(studs if unavoidable)===> Bought both

Reliability mod suggestions?

PACKAGE DEALS?

Thanks, everyone!

Carl

WRT the RE71s, they don't like more than 1/2" of pinch fit so run the widest you can fit without rubbing or exceeding this pinch guideline.

On the struts with threaded bodies for the lower spring perch, you can legally run them in Street, but the spring perch height has to be set same as the OEM strut. Unfortunately it won't be worth doing the struts because anything you do with the springs in the rear that allows ride height change will not be legal for Street class. You can't change the lower or upper spring contact area so unless you're willing to swap out lowering springs and adjusters for OEM springs before every autoX event you'll be in B Street Prepared.

As to adjustable struts/shocks, a lot of people run Koni Sport single adjustables. They're reasonably priced compared to the TC Kline sets (mid range price) or Ohlins (High $$$$$$). Need to know more what your budget range is to give advice here.

For local events, no one is likely to make a fuss about strut tower reinforcement plates, but if you run a national tour solo event, pro solo event, or go to solo nationals, you'll get protested a possibly disqualified. Just the Rogue Engineering rear shock mount plates with the OEM mounts are not legal for Street class.

[Over it]

Originally Posted by dc_wright

WRT the RE71s, they don't like more than 1/2" of pinch fit so run the widest you can fit without rubbing or exceeding this pinch guideline. Thanks, I have decided on 265-35-18(9.5 measured rim)rears and 235-40-18(8.5 measured rim) for the front.

On the struts with threaded bodies for the lower spring perch, you can legally run them in Street, but the spring perch height has to be set same as the OEM strut. Unfortunately, it won't be worth doing the struts because anything you do with the springs in the rear that allows ride height change will not be legal for Street class. You can't change the lower or upper spring contact area so unless you're willing to swap out lowering springs and adjusters for OEM springs before every autoX event you'll be in B Street Prepared. ===> I'd like height adjustment, I'll run it at stock height for AX. Are you saying front can be adjustable but not rear? Seems like if I run stock mounting, stock spring with a height adjustable coilover set to stock height I am ok???

As to adjustable struts/shocks, a lot of people run Koni Sport single adjustables. They're reasonably priced compared to the TC Kline sets (mid range price) or Ohlins (High $$$$$$). Need to know more what your budget range is to give advice here. ===>Say 2k max, I'd like to buy a full coilover set-up that can be adapted to stock springs and work with stock mounts for now.Be able to set aside the pillow balls and springs. Then when I decide fast is better than winning I will remove stock springs/mounts and replace with the springs and pillow ball mounts that came with the coilovers in the first place. So hopefully the valving would have a damping range that worked with stock springs as well as higher rate progressives that it comes with. Make sense? Is there such a thing?

For local events, no one is likely to make a fuss about strut tower reinforcement plates, but if you run a national tour solo event, pro solo event, or go to solo nationals, you'll get protested a possibly disqualified. Just the Rogue Engineering rear shock mount plates with the OEM mounts are not legal for Street class.

Local events.

I'd rather buy one set-up and partially utilize it initially to stay in B Street rules. Does such a thing exist? If not I would go single adjustables with stock springs and adjustable height since I am building an all-out race car already.

Autocross rules aside What are the reinforcements recommended? front and rear towers plus what else?

Thanks in advance!

[mpathic]

Catching up on ZPost threads.
For B Street, start with
Use the largest front swaybar you can find. I'm using the H&R 31. An unlimited budget would go with a hollow tube bar to save a few pounds. Need to use stock swaybar links, and expect they break sooner or later so carry spares.
Koni DA rear shocks, listed for the Ford Mustang. Saves $$$ vs E46 versions, has the unicorn top adjuster for rebound and an indexed click screw on the bottom of the body for rebound.
Koni SA 'cut a strut' style front struts listed for E36, installed in E36 //M3 strut tubes for the same installed spring height. Will need to cut 10mm off the bottom of the upper strut mount to fit the Koni threaded shaft through the E85/6M upper strut mount.
See: for pictorial of this strut adaptation.
Battery: Use a small light race battery.
Exhaust: remove the rear resonator and x-pipe. Also removes some weight. Replace with 2.5" x-pipe, round out the square pipe end sections using a pipe expander. Then you learn that the factory mufflers flow great, its that awful resonator and pinching x-pipe that's the real flow problem.
Any air filter can be used. I like the Pipercross over the K&N.
Spark plugs: single electrode NGK DCPR8EIX installed with the opening toward the intake valves.
Oils: Redline.
Empty the washer fluid bottle for less weight.
Extremists will use worn thin rotors and brake pads, and titanium lug bolts.
Wheels: Lightest you can find, with as little offset as the rules allow or use spacers. DForce and Apex don't make an 18x8 so you need to search old stuff. I found a set of old very light stock size SSR Integrals with 40mm front offset, and 26mm rear offset. Will use 5mm front spacer.
hth, good luck.

[dc_wright]

Originally Posted by mpathic

Catching up on ZPost threads.
For B Street, start with
Use the largest front swaybar you can find. I'm using the H&R 31. An unlimited budget would go with a hollow tube bar to save a few pounds. Need to use stock swaybar links, and expect they break sooner or later so carry spares.
Koni DA rear shocks, listed for the Ford Mustang. Saves $$$ vs E46 versions, has the unicorn top adjuster for rebound and an indexed click screw on the bottom of the body for rebound.
Koni SA 'cut a strut' style front struts listed for E36, installed in E36 //M3 strut tubes for the same installed spring height. Will need to cut 10mm off the bottom of the upper strut mount to fit the Koni threaded shaft through the E85/6M upper strut mount.
See: for pictorial of this strut adaptation.
Battery: Use a small light race battery.
Exhaust: remove the rear resonator and x-pipe. Also removes some weight. Replace with 2.5" x-pipe, round out the square pipe end sections using a pipe expander. Then you learn that the factory mufflers flow great, its that awful resonator and pinching x-pipe that's the real flow problem.
Any air filter can be used. I like the Pipercross over the K&N.
Spark plugs: single electrode NGK DCPR8EIX installed with the opening toward the intake valves.
Oils: Redline.
Empty the washer fluid bottle for less weight.
Extremists will use worn thin rotors and brake pads, and titanium lug bolts.
Wheels: Lightest you can find, with as little offset as the rules allow or use spacers. DForce and Apex don't make an 18x8 so you need to search old stuff. I found a set of old very light stock size SSR Integrals with 40mm front offset, and 26mm rear offset. Will use 5mm front spacer.
hth, good luck.

End links are considered part of the sway bar and you don't have to use stock end links on the one sway bar you're allowed to modify or replace. See paragraph 13.7 of current rules.

"13.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS
A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted."

You can't change to a "race" battery in Street. You have to use an OEM equivalent battery. Same size, type, weight, location and mounting type. The only change you can make is the addition of hold down hardware if added support is needed. Street Touring is the first class where changing the battery is actually allowed. Paragraph 14 is Street Touring. Also note that Z4Ms are not allowed in Street Touring. If you make a mod that's beyond what Street allows, the you skip ST and move to Street Prepared.

"14.9 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
A. The make, model number, and size of the battery may be changed but not its voltage. Relocation of the battery or batteries is permitted but not into the passenger compartment. If the battery is relocated and the original battery tray can be removed by simply unbolting it, the tray may be re¬moved."