Z4M: Replacing clutch; should I replace dual-mass flywheel at the same time?

GP20 · 02-08-2015, 04:06 PM

My M has 87k miles. It started having a small engine oil leak near the back of the engine a while ago. My shop replaced the CPV ring and it was still seeping, and they told me it's likely the rear main seal that needs to be replaced.

My clutch actually feels fine, but the shop said since I'm replacing the rear main seal, I might as well replace the clutch 'cos the labor is the same. I was okay with that.

Then they recommended me to replace the dual-mass flywheel at the same time so that the flywheel and the clutch can "break in together" and would less likely cause any problems. They said that maybe 3 out of 10 times when replacing just the clutch only, there might be slight syncing issues and shifting might not be smooth like from factory.

Just thought I'd check with some of you experts on the forum. Could I get away with just replacing the clutch?

Thanks!

Dalecan · 02-08-2015, 06:33 PM

I'm not an expert, but I've never heard of this.

mfanatic325 · 02-09-2015, 01:08 AM

I would replace the flywheel at the same time just for peace of mind. I used to have a raced out MR2 turbo build and tried to skimp on everything the first time around by leaving the stock flywheel in there...huge mistake lol. Had to go back in and readdress the flywheel a second time. Luckily labor on JDM is a lot more affordable than Euro

My MR2 was running an ACT 6-puck unsprung clutch with heavy duty plate, and a Fidanza lightweight flywheel. Hooked up great, but was a pain in the ass to daily drive lol.

I look at it like brake rotors and pads. Unless the rotors are pretty fresh, I would replace all together so that the components can wear together from the start.

And it seems like the dual-mass flywheel the car came with is quite good. Unless you're going with some crazy setup, I would just keep using the DMFW.

Westersund · 02-09-2015, 09:29 AM

Unless you're tracking your car a lot I don't see the point to change the fly wheel, unless it's worn/broken. The DMFW is more comfortable if the car is a DD.

When the BMW dealership changed the clutch on my car they didn't seem to think I had to change the DMFW at the same time. And we all know how the dealership really wants to sell some spare parts, even if it doesn't need to be replaced.

NickyC · 02-09-2015, 10:03 AM

Before you do anything, I'd take your car to another shop to verify the leak is indeed a RMS. The CPV could still be to blame.

02-08-2015, 04:06 PM	#1
GP20 Major 95 Rep 1,269 Posts Drives: Z4M, F80 M3, 991.2 GTS Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Canada iTrader: (5)	Z4M: Replacing clutch; should I replace dual-mass flywheel at the same time? My M has 87k miles. It started having a small engine oil leak near the back of the engine a while ago. My shop replaced the CPV ring and it was still seeping, and they told me it's likely the rear main seal that needs to be replaced. My clutch actually feels fine, but the shop said since I'm replacing the rear main seal, I might as well replace the clutch 'cos the labor is the same. I was okay with that. Then they recommended me to replace the dual-mass flywheel at the same time so that the flywheel and the clutch can "break in together" and would less likely cause any problems. They said that maybe 3 out of 10 times when replacing just the clutch only, there might be slight syncing issues and shifting might not be smooth like from factory. Just thought I'd check with some of you experts on the forum. Could I get away with just replacing the clutch? Thanks!
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02-08-2015, 06:33 PM	#2
Dalecan Lieutenant 102 Rep 454 Posts Drives: Aston V8VS, F85 X5M, TVR, 128i Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: WA state iTrader: (3)	I'm not an expert, but I've never heard of this.
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02-09-2015, 01:08 AM	#3
mfanatic325 ///M-fanatic 193 Rep 3,885 Posts Drives: '01 911 Turbo Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Cupertino, CA. iTrader: (23)	I would replace the flywheel at the same time just for peace of mind. I used to have a raced out MR2 turbo build and tried to skimp on everything the first time around by leaving the stock flywheel in there...huge mistake lol. Had to go back in and readdress the flywheel a second time. Luckily labor on JDM is a lot more affordable than Euro My MR2 was running an ACT 6-puck unsprung clutch with heavy duty plate, and a Fidanza lightweight flywheel. Hooked up great, but was a pain in the ass to daily drive lol. I look at it like brake rotors and pads. Unless the rotors are pretty fresh, I would replace all together so that the components can wear together from the start. And it seems like the dual-mass flywheel the car came with is quite good. Unless you're going with some crazy setup, I would just keep using the DMFW. Last edited by mfanatic325; 02-09-2015 at 01:39 PM..
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02-09-2015, 09:29 AM	#4
Westersund Captain 496 Rep 869 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Hallstahammar iTrader: (1)	Unless you're tracking your car a lot I don't see the point to change the fly wheel, unless it's worn/broken. The DMFW is more comfortable if the car is a DD. When the BMW dealership changed the clutch on my car they didn't seem to think I had to change the DMFW at the same time. And we all know how the dealership really wants to sell some spare parts, even if it doesn't need to be replaced.
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02-09-2015, 10:03 AM	#5
NickyC Lieutenant General 17439 Rep 10,645 Posts Drives: M4 CS. Former G82, x2 F82, F80 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Jacked out of my mind iTrader: (23)	Before you do anything, I'd take your car to another shop to verify the leak is indeed a RMS. The CPV could still be to blame.
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